johnmark101

4 hours ago, betoney said:

@johnmark101 - In my opinion - The shock is the weaker component and much more in need of attention.  You are fortunate with the GT (compared to the FJ and base Tracer) in that the forks have separate damping in each leg and both legs are 'active'.  With a fluid change, the fork action can be altered with different viscosities relatively easy.

With a shock rebuild you would still not have the ability to adjust compression damping or alter the ride height like you can with the Penske.  One thing to note, if you travel with a passenger and change your preload on a regular basis, the Penske does not have the remote preload option.  Traxxion Dynamics built my Penske double clicker and it is unbelievably good. 

Since money is an issue in this decision, I would consider the Penske for sure, and then a rebuild with their Axxion valves on the forks, that should be a few hundred $$ cheaper than the AK-20's. 

Axxion Valve Upgrade - Traxxion Dynamics

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Compression Valve, Rebound Valve, Springs, Fork Seals, and full Service for...

 

One thing I did not mention is that I have a 2013 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 which I had Traxxion do a rebuild of the stock bits front and rear three years ago.  Huge improvement in handling and cornering.  The stock rear shock on that bike was pretty bad.  My only disappointment is although general ride quality was improved overall, it is still a bit firm, even after some fine tuning, and I would like a little more bump absorption for a smoother ride when touring.  I am guessing that the more expensive route would give me that plus all that the rebuild offers.  They quoted me $1200 for the rebuild and $2700 for the AK-20 / Penske.....but that is with them doing the work.  When I took them my Ninja it was $1200 / $2400.  

Looking for opinions from those who may have gone the cheaper route of doing a revalve / respring of both the forks and shock.

Spent some time on the phone with Dan at Traxxion.  We discussed three options.  Rebuilding the stock suspension bits with new springs and valves, or going the AK-20 /  Penske shock route.  The latter is much more expensive and I am a bit of a tight wad when it comes to spending money.  The third option would be AK-20's for the front and a rebuild at the rear, which would strike a cost between options one and two.  My concern with this would be that the performance of the forks might overshadow a rebuilt rear shock.

I know the more expensive route will be brilliant performance wise and would add compression adjustment to the rear.  I would like to hear from those who have gone the more affordable route and how happy are you with the results?  My biggest gripe with the stock suspension is the harshness of the front fork and how it chatters over less than smooth pavement.

Thanks in advance for any replies.   Cheers.....John. 

1 hour ago, betoney said:

 I would be willing to bet if the average rider tried 4 identical bikes, all with different brand tires in a blind test, they wouldn't be able to differentiate one tire from another.

Buy a quality, name brand sport touring tire that you can get for a fair price, they are all good.

 

I agree.  Modern motorcycle tires are so good that any of them from a major brand will work very well and provide all the grip anyone will ever need for the street.  For most of us a good sport touring tire is ideal.

I shop for price among the trusted brands.  Right now Metzeler has introduced the M9RR which replaces the M7RR.  So now you can get the M7RR at close out prices while supplies last.  They perform like a sport tire but last a bit longer and are very good in the wet.  Plenty of grip for cornering at deep lean angles.  After I tried them on my bike I ordered a second set to have when the first one wears out.  

Beautiful country!!!  Many years ago my father and I drove through the Canadian Rockies and the views there are absolutely breathtaking.  

I have owned three sport tourers.  Honda VFR 800, Kawasaki Ninja 1000 and currently the Tracer GT...…..just as shown in the first picture.  Pretty cool to see them all together.  I still have the Ninja 1000 but the VFR is long gone.

First, it appears you are in NC.  No better place for riding and the Tracer would be right at home in the NC mountains.  Comfortable enough to tour all day and light enough to toss around on some of the best mountain roads in the country.

It is a fantastic bike for those of us who want touring capability but prefer something light and agile.  It is, however, not without it's warts.  For most the stock seat is not too comfortable for long rides, the stock windscreen creates a lot of buffeting, and the fueling is a bit abrupt in "A" mode.  These are all easily remedied.  Ivan has a good reflash for the fueling.  Windscreen options are many as are seats.  (Love my Terry Adcox seat!!)  

The riding position is just about perfect.  Nice that it has adjustable bars and seat height so it can be fine tuned a bit if needed.  Bike is a load of fun when hunting apexes, and the GT model stock suspension is pretty decent unless you are a big guy.  The heated grips and cruise control work beautifully and are two things I did not know I needed until I had them.  The engine is absolutely brilliant, very torquey but still screams all the way to redline like an inline four and it really never feels strained.  The engine is one of the main reasons I bought the bike.  More than enough power to put a grin on your face, and it just seem eager to do whatever you ask of it.  

I look forward to each and every ride, knowing that I can go as far as I want in comfort, and still keep up with the sport bikes when the road gets twisty. 

Welcome.  Lots of good guys and gals here and a wealth of information regarding the your bike.

Cheers...…..John.

Several workable solutions shared here.  However, spend the money for proper front and rear stands.  It is a good investment.  The Pitbull stands are excellent and you will have them for life.

There is much that goes into determining a torque value for a particular fastener.  Application, load bearing, metallurgy, thread pitch, fastener size etc.  But that rear axle nut torque does seem awfully high per the service manual.  

Noticed the same thing when removing the caliper bolts on my GT.  The lower bolts had a lot of white residue that appeared to be some sort of oxidization.  Cleaned them up as much as I could with brake parts cleaner.  May replace them next time I need to change tires.  Considered coating them with a little bit of anti seize but did not due to concerns about it affecting torque on install.

3 hours ago, endz2end said:

What if I don't need sprockets, does it matter about a 520 or 525? Or what is different about those other sprockets, what would I notice. 

You can switch to a 520 but on this bike it would be of little value.  The idea being that a 520 chain and sprockets will have less resistance but will probably not last as long.  I would stick with a 525 set and a rivet type master link.

Have not experienced this with my cruise control.  I would not be too concerned about it unless it happens again.

17 hours ago, skipperT said:

1more - did you get the recall/updated shift shaft?

-Skip

I am going to guess this recall for the shift shaft you are referring to probably does not affect later models such as my 2019?  This is the first I have heard of a recall for shift shafts.

Thanks for all the replies.  I will inspect the items that have been suggested and pay attention to how I am using the shifter the next time out.  Sounds like it there is a problem it will be with the shifter / shaft / return spring and should not be too hard to fix.

Cheers all...…..John 

3 hours ago, kilo3 said:

That's a odd spot to get a false shift 🤨

Yes, I agree.  

2 hours ago, Dodgy Knees said:

Is this with clutch change only or QS aswel.?  

When using the clutch.

My 2019 GT is three weeks past the one year warranty.  Had a few instances where it would not go into gear when upshifting.  Shift lever goes all the way up to the stop but with no shift.  This happens when shifting from fourth into fifth.....shift lever hits end of stroke but transmission is still in 4th.  Sounds like a possible shift fork or dog gear issue.  No grinding and no abnormal noise.....just no shift.  If I release and pull again then it shifts.  Strange.  Bike has never been abused and I rarely use the quick shifter.  Just got back from a 130 mile ride and it did this four times.  When it does shift as it should it feels completely normal.   Hoping I don't have a bent shift fork.  

Anyone else ever experience this??  

If you don't mind spending a few extra bucks and want a quality, long lasting chain, get the D.I.D. ZVM-X chain in 525 pitch.  You can find all sorts of options on replacing sprockets.  Aluminum is lighter but will not last as long.  I would recommend steel sprockets.  You could go with OEM Yamaha parts or check with a place like the Sprocket Center for other options.  There are also some aluminum sprockets with steel tooth rings that are popular but they can be a bit pricey.  Get a good chain breaker / rivet tool for the job.  If this will be your first time replacing chain and sprockets take your time.  It's not hard but if you mess up your new chain it can be an expensive mistake. 

Definitely upgrade the suspension.  As mentioned the GT does have upgraded suspension but it is noting like what you would get with a good aftermarket upgrade.  Traxxion Dynamics in Woodstock, Georgia does excellent work.  A rebuild will include new springs and valves and will make a big difference for somewhere around 1400 bucks.  Upgrading to the AK-20 cartridge and a good Penske rear will give add adjustment for compression damping to the rear and much better bump absorption but will be closer to 2500 bucks.  Sounds expensive but good suspension set up for your weight will pay dividends in every corner and over every bump of every mile you ride.  The cost will be soon forgotten, and you will enjoy your rides so much more.  I did this with my Ninja 1000 (went the rebuild route) and it was a massive improvement.  Hope to do the same with my GT later this year.   

28 minutes ago, Mark Barulich said:

Thanks for your input. I don't ride with a passenger. (Wife is afraid). I've had many different motorcycles in my life. 70 years old now and only 170 lbs. Just want something lighter, more agile for weekend trips. I ride with a Harley friend. We never go for more than 300 miles in a day. 

I am 59 years old, 6 foot one inch and 175 pounds.  I think you will really like the bike.  I recently did three back to back 350 mile days on two lane roads and can not wait to go again!!  You will likely need to change the seat and the windscreen but that should be about all you would need.  

I received my seat from Terry Adcox last month.  It is made on the stock seat pan so the fit to the bike is good.  Build quality of the seat is excellent.  The material matches well with the stock pillion seat and I paid a few extra dollars for matching stitching.  The overall look of the seat might be polarizing but I have gotten used to it and am really far more concerned with function over form.

Terry has you take some pictures of yourself on the bike so he can see how you are sitting on the seat.  He is very good about corresponding and responds quickly to emails.

Went for a three day ride in the mountains earlier this week.  The forward slope of the stock seat is gone.  The seat is wider than stock so it makes the reach to the ground a bit longer.  It is also taller than the stock seat so now I keep it in the low position.  My inseam is 34 inches and once the seat had some miles on it I can reach the ground just fine but not quite flat footed.  I averaged 350 miles a day when on the back roads and never had to squirm or adjust my seating position.  On the last day I had to make time so toward the end of the day I got on the interstate for the last leg home.  I rode 130 miles of four lane, sitting in one spot on the seat the whole way,  and never once did my backside bother me.  

At first shifting my hips from side to side for spirited cornering felt a little awkward due to the width of the seat but as the miles piled up this feeling went away as I became accustomed to the seat.

Excellent seat.  Well worth the wait!! 

Finally managed to do some real mileage on the Terry Adcox seat.  I am very pleased.

Got back last night from a 3 day ride.  Average daily mileage was 350.  Most of this was spent on winding mountain roads.  After getting used to the seat I am now totally comfortable with hanging one cheek off the side for spirited cornering.  At first the extra width made it a little awkward, but no longer.  I can literally sit in this seat without shifting, moving or squirming and be comfortable for long distances.  On the last day we had to get back quickly and took the interstate during the last half of the day.  We did a 150 mile stretch of I-75 at an average speed of just over 80 mph.  I sat in one spot on the seat the entire time and was just fine.   

20 hours ago, tktplz said:

Always like the ZRX 1200 and still see them on the road on occasion.  Had one slip thought my hands a couple years ago.  It was the green color and was 100% stock original.  Called and told the lady on the phone I would be there in the morning with cash.  Two guys got there ahead of me that next morning and it was gone.

I consider my Ninja 1000 somewhat of the evolution of this bike.

Did not start riding until 2003.  My first bike was a 2003 VFR 800, followed by a 2007 CBR 600 RR which eventually became my track bike after a couple years of street duty.  Bought a 2011 Ninja 1000 and totaled it, but promptly picked up a 2013.  Missed my 600 after I gave up track days and got a 2015 ZX6R.  Finally realized super sports were no longer my thing and traded the ZX6R for my Tracer GT.

20 hours ago, piotrek said:

Is it possible that the first assembly was off kilter and damaged the piston/caliper on first hard use? 

My thoughts exactly.  When you noticed that the bike feels harder to push around the garage after reinstalling the wheel, that would have been the time to stop, investigate, disassemble etc.  At that point things might have been reversible.  Taking the bike for a spin and stepping on the brake lever may have been what caused the real damage.

Any time you perform work on the bike and something seems slightly amiss after it would be best to not ride until all things are put back to normal.

23 hours ago, kmev said:

 If you're constantly dragging knees through sweepers you'll probably want something narrower.  

Good point and something that I did not mention in my original post.  With the new seat from Terry Adcox, shifting your hips from side to side for spirited cornering is not difficult, but it was a bit easier with the more narrow stock seat.  At first I thought I might look for a deal on a used stock seat for local rides with my hooligan friends, but after the second time out on the seat I adjusted to the added width when hanging my one butt cheek off the side, so no problem.  

That is about the only negative thing I can come up with about this seat, and it is a very small matter that I was able to adjust for.