johnmark101

I have only put 500 miles on the GT so far and the OEM tires seem to be adequate for the intended purpose but not inspiring by any means.  I have some reservations about how much grip they provide but have run them into some curves at a somewhat spirited pace.  Would like to have a set of the Roadsmart 3 mounted but hate to waste the OEM tires.  These are not nearly as lousy as the OEM rubber that came with my Ninja 1000.

Share you thought on the D222 if you don't mind.  

And the laughs keep coming.

The day I bought the bike I also purchased two oil filters and drain bolt washers.  I did the first service today and found they gave me the wrong washers....too small to fit over the drain bolt.  Good grief.  Just reused the original for now.

Will not step a foot in that dealership again...…..what a bunch of clowns.

4 hours ago, skipperT said:

The “continual high pitch buzz” after the fuel pump is done its 4 second cycle, is the stepper motors for the YCC-T system. They settle into the “start” position, and are waiting for a command from the ecm.

-Skip 

Good to know...….thank you Skip.

8 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Fortunately, that one is normal.  Mine buzzes and hums a bit when first powered up, with that ABS pump noise being the most obvious sound. 

Scott......can you still hear this after the initial start up cycle?  I turn the key on and hear the usual fuel pump priming etc.  But after this there is still an electrical noise that continues.  

7 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Now get out and enjoy the bike... it’s a terrific machine.  

I agree.  This bike hits the sweet spot for a middleweight sport touring machine.  I first read about the bike in the spring of 2018 and had been absorbing all the information, reviews and specs on the bike since that time.  It is a joy to ride and I plan on hitting the road for a few days in June...….headed for the Appalachian mountain roads.

Thanks again to all who offered help and insight!!

Finally got things sorted out today.  But not by the local dealer from whom I bought the bike.  I went to them first and they told me they were not certain they could even clear the codes.  I asked the service writer if they had the OBD four pin connector needed and he could not tell me and did nothing to check with any of his techs.  Then he told me he could not help me today anyway and to call back later......good grief.  I got back on the bike and headed down the interstate to the next town which also has a Yamaha dealer.

When I arrive they took my bike right in, hooked it to the laptop and right away found the codes......there were about seven!!   However they could only read and not clear.  They said this was because the bike was not registered with Yamaha, something the selling dealer was supposed to do.  So I called back to the local dealer who said the person who was supposed to have done this was out to lunch.  Ninety minutes later I finally get to talk to this person who said she does not do the registration but gives me the name of the person who does...….who had just left for his lunch hour!  Seems the people at my local dealer do not even know who is responsible for what!!

So, the tech who had the bike all hooked up and ready to go calls Yamaha, downloads some new software and manages to get it done.  Codes cleared, quick shifter working, menu access returned to normal and CEL is no longer illuminated.  Bike now seems to be sorted out and all is back to normal.  However I still hear a strange electrical buzzing sound coming from the area near the ABS unit when the key is turned on.

Thanks to all who offered me help and insight on this issue.  As for the bike itself, I could not be more pleased but for the stock seat.  Will have to do something about that.

My local dealership is a real mess!!  

1 hour ago, runnerhiker said:

OK, I take it back.

No problem....we are good.  👍

Thanks for the review.  Typical of Ivan's work.....he is a perfectionist and in the opinion of many, the best in the business.

6 hours ago, runnerhiker said:

He is being pretty hard on the dealer, yet, he damaged the bike, the dealer did not.

Wow.....have mercy.  

I have owned many bikes over many years and have done all my own work as well without one issue until now.  I did make one simple, rookie mistake and am not alone as it has happened to others here.  Based on how the battery is designed and the install it was easy to overlook.

If you read my description of how it was originally you would see that what the dealer did was an absolute joke and a total cluster full of crass errors by comparison...... unfortunately my one error had worse consequences.

Additionally if you had been there during the purchase you would have been disgusted by how callously the transaction was handled.  I knew going in of their reputation, but they were the only ones near me with a GT in stock.

I am grateful for the members here who are offering to be helpful.

24 minutes ago, StealthAu said:

You should be able to turn the qs back on by lifting the gear lever and maintaining upward pressure (as though going up a gear) and turning the key on. 15 seconds or so from memory. 

Thanks for the tip.  Will give that a try.

1 hour ago, nhchris said:

Jesus, what kind of dealer installs the battery backwards?

God forbid they work on the actual engine.

cb

Exactly.....which is why I was looking for answers here.  Our local dealership is horrible.  A real bunch of clowns and they act like you are inconvieniencing them.  My purchasing experience was horrible in spite of the good price.  Unfortunately I don't have much of a choice but I am thinking about going  another dealer about another hour away just to get the codes cleared.  

6 minutes ago, mellow said:

I was installing something and a screwdriver just touched the positive terminal ad frame I assume...

The menu was blocked out.

I am assuming that the system denies menu access whenever there is a fault code or CEL.  Did you notice any issue with your quick shifter or any electrical buzzing sounds with the key on?  I also have these two issues.

Hope I am as fortunate as you that clearing the codes puts me back to normal.  

And thanks for your prompt responses.  👍

34 minutes ago, mellow said:

19 GT.. I did the same thing as soon as I got the bike and had to order the stuff to clear codes, but that will fix it.

A little history.....when I went to adjust the seat height I found the dealer had installed the battery all wrong.  Terminals on the left side of the bike. The foam spacer that should be on the left side of the battery and the small electrical terminal that should sit to the right of the battery were both under the battery!!! How ridiculous is this!!  Positive cable was folded double along side the battery in order to make connection.  So I removed the battery in order to install exactly as shown in the manual diagrams.  Unfortunately had the battery on it side, reversing the terminals.  Barley touched the negative cable to the battery.

Sound at all familiar??  Did it also block your access to the menu??

53 minutes ago, mellow said:

Yeah, I popped that fuse as well.  Had to buy a code reader and little harness to clear the codes, all good after that.  Let me look for the link here with the info.

Thanks for the reply.  I am pretty decent at wrenching on bikes but am pretty much in the dark when it comes to the electrical side of things.  Feeling pretty gutted as the bike has only 300 miles. 

Is yours a GT and what year?  Hopefully clearing the codes will take care of my woes.

41 minutes ago, fjrpittsburgh said:

With the key on and the bike in neutral, hold the menu wheel in (push and hold) to access the main menu.  My guess is the quick shifter may have been turned off when the fuse was blown.  You will have to go back through all the settings in the menu to re-setup all of the choices for each option in the menu.  Could further damage have been done due to having the battery connections backwards?  Possibly.  Most likely the fuse saved all your electronics. 

Thanks for the reply.

Can't access the menu any longer.....it is as if having the check engine light has me locked out of the menu.  Also, according to what I can find in the owners manual, there is no option in the 2019 GT menu to turn the quick shifter on/off.  It is supposed to come on with the key and indicate QS on the display, but it now only shows up for a moment is the start up cycle and is then gone. 

I had to replace the main 50 amp fuse as well as the ETV fuse due to incorrect batter orientation.  Evidently this has happened to a few others here, but as far as I can tell they had no other issues after replacing the fuses.  After I replaced the two fuses the bike seemed fine other than the check engine light still being on which evidently only the dealer can clear.  

But now I noticed the quick shift light is not illuminated and the quick shift does not work.  Also I can no longer access the main menu.  When the key is on I can hear a high pitch whine coming from somewhere in the vicinity of the ABS pump, near the quick shifter.  Looked in the owners manual but find no fuse for the quick shifter.  Really disappointing since I have yet to even reach the first oil change.

Anyone have a similar experience??  Loving this bike but hating that the electronics seem so delicate.  Any help would be appreciated.

36 minutes ago, fjrpittsburgh said:

Still waiting for @TorqWrench to post a review. He was supposed to pick up his ECU after getting it back from Ivan.  I keep checking back here to see what he has to say about the differences in the ridability of the GT.  On the edge of my seat here.  🤤

Same here.  Very interested.

50 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@johnmark101 - Yours is a new Tracer GT, right?   The early FJs have a provision for cleaning fault codes from the instrument’s menu structures, but I don’t think that is an option on the newer bikes.   

My guess is it triggered when the bike started with the ETV fuse blown...  the computer would have instantly recognized the dead throttle control, and tripped the check engine light.   If it were me, I would just go ride it and see if it resets on its own within 100 miles or so.  

I thought about doing so, but I am the overly cautious type.  Yet it seems the bike is fine....other than that stupid light being on which makes me paranoid.  Since there is a history of others doing this exact same thing it would be interesting to know how they took care of this.  Before replacing the fuses, the bike started once and would barely hold idle at about 800 rpm.  After that it would crank but not start on two subsequent tries.  As you mentioned it probably threw the code when it actually started on the first attempt.  

Also took the bike up the road and back and all seems fine but I am parking it until I am certain the check engine light is just a history code and not possibly an active issue.

Jsjn…..how were you able to clear the check engine light afterward??

1 hour ago, texscottyd said:

Hi @johnmark101 - Sorry to hear about your issue, and it’s unfortunately a fairly common occurrence with the FJ/Tracer bikes.  The battery lays on its side in the battery box, and if accidentally installed in the conventional upright orientation, the terminals end up reversed.   

You're probably looking at the main fuse, and also the ETV fuse that runs the electronic ‘ride-by-wire’ throttle controls.   

There’s a bit more detail in this thread:  

Good luck, and I hope you’re back on the road ASAP.  

-Scott

Scott,

This is exactly what happened.  Replaced the 50 amp and the bike would barely start and idle, no response from throttle.  Found 7.5 amp fuse for throttle control blown.  Replaced it and all is working.  Only problem is the check engine light is still on.  Disconnected both battery terminals and reconnected but it did not clear.  I am guessing this is a history code an not an active problem since the bike appears to but running just fine.  How do I clear the check engine light??  

4 hours ago, kingfisher said:

You are welcome. Those 50 amp fuses are usually available at the auto parts store. You may still be able to ride tomorrow.

I will check that out.  I guess if it is the correct fitment, and amperage is the same it should be fine to use one other than from the dealer.  I feel pretty stupid for having done this as I have worked on all my bikes for years but never had any sort of electrical issue.....not even a blown fuse. This is how we learn.

Thanks again for your help.

Fuel injector fuse is good.  Found the location in the owners manual.  Will get a replacement for the 50 amp next week and hopefully that will be all I need.  Thanks for the help.  Much appreciated.  

Just now, kingfisher said:

Probably two blown fuses, the 50 amp main fuse and the fuel injector fuse. Check both, replace, and all will likely be OK.

Yes.....50 amp fuse is burned.  Can you tell me where the injector fuse is located?  Thanks.

Before you bust my chops, realize I make careless error that anyone could have made.  Reinstalling the battery and without realizing it was turned the wrong way I had attached the positive and then touched the negative wire to the terminal.  ( Had the battery rotated and even though the terminals were on the same side of the bike this switched them front to back. ) Obviously got a nice spark from the negative terminal.  Installed battery correctly and now the bike is dead.....turn the key and nothing.  I am hoping it is nothing more than a blown fuse but I don't have the service manual and not sure which or where to check first.  Mechanical stuff I do well, electrical stuff is foreign to me.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Pictures would be great.  Was planning a ride tomorrow but that won't happen.  Just hope I have not cooked anything.....bike is only four days old.