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littlebruv

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Posts posted by littlebruv

  1. The shock is very standard, does its job ok as an all rounder, i had the forks and rear shock adjusted as best possible for my weight and riding style but if you can afford an upgrade you will notice the difference, especially if doing some fast B road riding. The seat is an arse ache if your an heavyweight (18 stone +) , i noticed it the first time i had a test ride on a 2017 Tracer unless the later ones had a major improvement

  2. B mode is usually for if the road surface is usually wet or damp or loose, try hard acceleration away from traffic lights and see what happens compared to A or STD modes, especially if someone is going to hard accelerate behind you who either as TC or not on full power

  3. I had my forks sorted, i cannot see what all the problems really are... A good grade 10 fork oil to start with the correct springs ordered according to the riders weight, the only problem is getting a fork compression tool to make life as easy as possible for removal and fitting the springs, getting the oil level measured correctly then having the forks properly setup once completed, it takes time and the outcome is excellent.

    Otherwise if you just want to spend loads of money then buy the Ohlins NIX30 fork internals, springs and oil and be sorted that way

  4. 4 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

    Got a new helmet with double D ring strap. My old one has a Quick Release Pull Buckle strap. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket quick release buckle to replace the double D rings? I would like to think that it would be an upgrade but am unsure of the safety aspects?

    I don't think can change from D rings to quick release as this could compromise the safety of the helmet shell itself, but i will be proven wrong..

    P.S. why didn't you buy a crash helmet with quick release bucket like your last one to start with 🤔

  5. 13 hours ago, texscottyd said:

    I do as well, and am kind of surprised to hear that we appear to be in the minority.  In my case, I think it’s a habit that dates all the way back to my keyless dirt bike days when it was the only option (other than crashing) to turn the thing off...   

    That said, I haven’t noticed any issues with starting on my 2015 FJ.   I’ll turn the power on with the key, flip the kill switch to run, and then press the starter after a few seconds.   It fires right up every time. 

    I have done it this way with all my bikes, it was the way i was taught instead of just using the key

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  6. 10 hours ago, littlebruv said:

    I weigh 260lbs, the oil i used motul 10 grade 100% fully synthetic with the K-Tech 10nm springs now run in and suspension as been re checked and set up for me by a KTM technician works perfect giving a much better feel on the front end especially at high corner speeds. 

    I suppose it also all depends how aggressive you ride with the front end

  7. 7 hours ago, NotVeryCreative16 said:

    Fair enough. Email sent.

    How much do you weigh exactly? You don't think the 10 NM springs were too stiff? I went back and forth between the 9.5 and 10 but now I'm second guessing myself.

    I weigh 260lbs, the oil i used motul 10 grade 100% fully synthetic with the K-Tech 10nm springs now run in and suspension as been re checked and set up for me by a KTM technician works perfect giving a much better feel on the front end especially at high corner speeds. 

  8. Hi NotVeryCreative16

    10 grade fully synthetic fork oil, best you can afford and as you weigh 250 lbs in bike gear K-Tech 10NM fork springs, these are what i got as i weigh about the same as you, the transformation on the front end is excellent.

    If not too sure concerning about the fork oil watch the preview of Dave Moss on Youtube about MT09 suspension

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  9. I must admit the suspension is a bit laggy, just look at Dave Moss on youtube concerning MT09 suspension...heavier fork oil grade, ditch the progressive fork springs and get decent springs and the shock is true, can be a bit lame but if your on a budget then make do with what you can afford....almost like having an Harley with some of the things that need sorting, except of course than engine...GEM

    P.S.

    I have a 2017 tracer so not a GT

  10. 54 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

    I had the same problem with the front tire (Dunlop) on my new 2010 Goldwing from the day I took it home. Some nights it would lose 2psi other nights 6psi or more. The dealer tanked the the tire, removed and remounted the tire and finally replaced the valve stem which included the tire pressure monitor if I remember correctly. They could not find any leaks but they knew the tire leaked by the pressure drop the tire had over night when they had it ( I trust and have a very good relationship with them). Then they replaced the front and rear tire at no charge (Dunlop would not warranty it). They put on Michelins front and back so the tires matched and  that solved the problem, it also solved the handle bar shake I would get going over steel grated bridges. . Another reason I hate Dunlop tires and cant wait to get them of my bikes.

    There isn't a tiny tack or carpet pin in the tyre ? they are hard to see, don't always show bubbles if the wheel is tanked as the pin can reseal the hole in the tyre when reflated. I had this problem recently on a car tyre

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