thewrenchbender

I’m only 3 months 4021 miles in. 

Am seeing some very very fine lines on my acrylic windshield (typical for me) if the sun is just right. No swirlies, only rub straight lines on windscreens (see below).

Front fender, hand guards, tank “side” panels, tank, lids on the panniers seem to be hanging in there “cleaning” scratch-free.

Is one spot on one of the handguards that I think is a light debris “mar”.

I just use regular spray detailer/synthetic “wax” on the copper/red panels.

I’ve been cleaning bug guts off of airplanes for going on 38 years. Longer you leave them on, the harder they are to remove/more likely to eat into the paint. Ya don’t rub in circles on plane windows/straight lines only-otherwise you can get halos at night.

The Beasley’s product does water-spot some, but I’ve yet to use the “detailer” or “cleaner”-have gotten everything off w/water. Used it on all the matte plastic also. Maybe could have held up a little better on the natural matte portion of the bags...seems to be fine on the nose/headlight bucket finish. 

Went with the Dr Beasley matte paint deal. They sell a smaller quantity “motorcycle” kit. 

Doesn’t bead water like the ceramic coating I had on my “gloss” bike, but is pretty easy to apply. 

Getting ready to throw another coat on for winter.

I de-bug mainly w/plain water on a Costco micro fiber.

Hope this helps.

1 hour ago, betoney said:

It cost me about $3 to drive to the dealer for 3 quarts of oil and a filter and I did the work myself, so maybe $45?  I didn't want to pay a technician $90-$100 an hour to check the chain tension, clutch lever free play and tighten any possible loose bolts.  By the time I booked an appointment and took it to the dealer I could have the job finished.

I called w/around 400 miles to see how far the dealership was “out”.

Was gonna be almost 3 weeks. 

Welp-made that one a no-brainer.

The 600 mile service was the only time my ‘15 FJR saw the dealership shop floor, I bought it used w/<400 miles late in the season (after wrecking my ‘08)...

7 hours ago, smurph said:

Hey quetech - you had previously said grounding it didn't show any difference. Have you since added a ground connection with the copper tape? I'll be doing the same mod over the long cold winter up here. Cheers!

Read this thread with interest, was initially pulling what little hair I have left out at my GPS (older sumo) not picking up satellites.

I ended up just going with the higher-from-the-display solution which is better on my bad neck anyways...

Have connected a lot of shielding in my former life working on GA planes. Connecting to any good ground is usually sufficient. The trick is to only connect at one position to avoiding inducing a ground loop. 

1 hour ago, Cornersruns said:

WOW, I am surprised.  I thought that immobilisers were fitted as standard worldwide.  Is it a USA legislation thing?

As I recall, the first automobile fitted with a “smart key” in the US was also at that time the most stolen model.

My guess that it was indeed market-driven by the insurance underwriters and car-stealing “scrotes”.

Think there are a few bikes in the US (Kawi Concours maybe) with smart keys.

But they aren’t mandatory one way or the other that I am aware of.

The Grand Marquis’s I’ve owned if you had the external keypad fitted to the drivers door, and had two unique keys, you could program the car to accept new ones without needing any external assistance/“red” key...

3 hours ago, fj09viking said:

Lots of comments here that resonates with my own experience. I found the instability around trucks on hwy or while accelerating hard above 55-60 mph very frustrating on my '17 FJ-09 (stock). Add my Givi Trekker 33L bags and/or some gusty crosswind and the instability and wobble would show up at even lower speeds.

I also found that tightening pre-load on the front and raising forks 5 mm helped quite a bit, at least for hard acceleration. I then went to a cleaner bike with a Puig Sport Screen and replaced hand guards with bar end weights. This also helped but did not completely get rid of problem. 

Last fall rolled around and I added the Givi 2122DT windshield which actually seem to help a bit. Too my surprise the biggest difference so far came when I installed the Givi Handguards, especially around large vehicles. I don't know how much of a difference the fact that I have the Givi winshield makes. 

This spring I got fork springs and rear spring from RaceTech rated for my weight (240lbs), as well as a RaceTech Gold Valve Kit for the forks. The stiffer rear spring has raised the rear end a bit and my forks are back to factory height. I now only have very minimal flutter (nothing disconcerting) in bars when accelerating really hard in 1st and 2nd where there is little or no weight on front wheel. I could do 100-110 mph all day long with the bags installed now. My conclusion? I believe it is a combination of aerodynamics, suspension and weight distribution rather than a single issue. I also wonder if the fact that there is only dampening in one fork on the FJ aggrevates the instability tendency? 

My first FJR had compression/rebound in both tubes, second one only had it in one, Never really noticed any difference between them once I had them set up. But the front end of those are not “light” by any standard/riding hard eats the front tires (same size as an R6).

GT is my first experience w/compression in one/rebound in the other...

As stated only occasionally get the weave behind trucks on the highway. Have tried pretty much every combination of no windscreen/no handguards through the various positions/angles of the Madstad handguards on/off w/OEM screen in-between (with the neck bearings “loose” “factory” and “tight”).

I expect it to be flaky with the front end either on the way up (or down). At speed it’s not like it’s trying to rip the bars out of my hands or anything-but it def ain’t “normal”. Back-to-back-to-back tweaking/top end testing had me pretty annoyed. Not like I need to do it every day, but I didn’t buy it to ride it sedately...

If the stabilizer cures it-need to add some sort of handguard extensions for the winter season. Love the factory ones for blowing the summer air straight up my jacket sleeves...

17 hours ago, Ddog gt said:

If you are a Dave Moss fan then you have about as good of info as there is. The label inside the paneers says not to ride above 80 mph. This maybe why that label is there because they introduced instability above that speed. As I ride without the planners most of the time on the weekends I have not found any instability problems. Only one trip with planners and loaded with two extra bags. No instability problems, but that probably is because I have a self imposed speed limit of 80 mph on street riding. Will do some testing in the next week or so to see if I can fine some instability. So much for the 80 mph rule, but it will be in the pursuit of science.

I do appreciate all input. My job requires me to be “on call” with laptop anytime the bird isn’t in the barn. If I want to ride much...panniers aren’t optional.

Right shoulder (degenerative damage) can’t do a backpack any more, weatherproof hard bags (with larger lids) was the final deciding factor on the FJR many years ago. Those bags have the same limitation/never noticed an issue in close to 40k miles (moving average on my GPS real close to 60mph).

After noticing it on the way home with the GT, did some digging around and saw enough similar FJ/MT/Tracer “stories” to be concerned...

For the riding I do, (and not riding two-up much anymore/wife & I both have Vino 125s) a major suspension upgrade wouldn’t make a lot of sense. My gut tells me that changing the rear spring and increasing static sag may make it “worse”.

I’ve always sought experienced opinions in most/all things I do “mechanically”, so the Dave Moss stuff just makes sense  

The GT so far has been everything I want it to be, will be finding out soon how well I like it going into NW Ohio extended season-but occasionally I do spend time a ton-up-and the weave is driving me nuts.

Have seen several references to the FJ GPR install (only change needed is different riser hardware for the factory risers) taking care of the exact issue I am having-if it doesn’t, and if I still have it after my first front tire change, I may be just hanging it up...

Keep the dirty side down.

Mark

12 hours ago, Ddog gt said:

The 10 weight oil over the 5 weight oil in the forks as well as the higher oil level has to do with dampening Bottoming and that is another conversation. Some of the instability issues maybe due to the rear total sag being much greater than the front total sag. If moving forward  Or laying forward stops it then sag measuresments should be checked. Getting the bike flat and balanced will make a difference. Especially when loaded. 

Seldom ride two-up any more due to physical issues. Typically have <15lbs in the panniers (various riding gear/work backpack/laptop).

Ended up only a couple clicks from “all in” on the rear/tie wrap test says both ends are good at this “weight”. My weight is typically 2/3rds in the center of the saddle front-to-back 1/3rd on the pegs just behind the balls of my feet/boots. Have to use the raised seat position/don’t think I could handle dropped pegs.

I can live with the occasional weave behind a truck on the highway, the constant weave much above a ton-not so much...

Ran “stiff” tires on both ends of the FJR, not planning to on the GT, dropping the front tire pressure sure seemed to help, zero clue yet if a different tire will make any difference.

Like I told my wife, physical needs dictates seating position/weight/handlebar height, + “amenities” (and power) from the FJR I didn’t want to give up limited my choices severely. Not like anybody was gonna let me put 1k miles on their GT to see if my neck/shoulder/arm/wrist was gonna be able to deal...

Wasn’t very happy when I first got the weave riding home from the dealership. 

23 minutes ago, nhchris said:

Raising the forks reduces the already short  front suspension Trail spec of the Tracer.  Less Trail makes the bike less stable at speed, not more.

Since the Tracer/FJ is quick to turn in in stock form, I am not sure there is any reason for this procedure, especially on a street bike with an already twitchy front suspension.

And, I'd be very curious to know exactly how much weigh gain occurs after an 8mm fork raise. Has anyone every measured the increase in front wheel load after raising the forks?  

Did it in desperation, didn’t expect it to make a difference-but it did. 

I’m not slamming people whose GTs don’t weave (and it’s def more of a weave than a full-on head shake). Not saying that people that removed the handguards/went back to a stock windscreen didn’t see a change, just know on my bike it made no difference.

Spent several days/300ish miles confirming that it just plain weaves at speed. Raising the forks also reduced the tendency for it to weave when the front end is lighter than normal (humps in the road/throttle pinned/etc.)...

And neck bearing “torque” isn’t a really great way of setting pre-load on neck bearings, but is about the only way to compare being “loose”er or “tight”er than the factory recommendation. Old school is how easy the bars “flop”. Zero resistance to borderline too much resistance made zero perceived difference in back-to-back-to-back-to-back testing (and the bearings came from the factory with plenty of grease-which isn’t always the case with MamaYamaha).

As harsh as the front end is not seeing w/my loading where thicker oil would be a good thing.

Have never changed fluid in an upside-down fork before, next spring I will be figuring it out I guess...

All I have to gamble $500 on a GPR damper is that have read where other people that have had the issue found it helpful-I really don’t want to spend the money on a brand new bike.

1 hour ago, Ddog gt said:

When I first got this bike it felt very light in the front and found it did move around a bit at speed. I have raised the forks 8 mm above the triple tree to put more weight on the front. This also helps with turn in. Bike feels rock solid now at any speed. 

Thanks. Raising the forks 10mm and dropping 2-3 lbs out of the front tire was really the only thing that made any difference. But it sure ain’t “solid” now...

1 hour ago, nhchris said:

The FJR is almost 300 lbs heavier than your 900 GT.  And that fact might be in play.

Downside of a light weight bike is it gets knocked around a lot more than a big touring machine.

I came from an ST 1300 and there was a learning curve with my FJ as I adapted to it.  I don't linger in the turbulent air of other vechs.  Either pass em or back off till it's clean again.  And when passing I expect a bit of tracking drift and jitter so it's not concerning any longer.

I have motopump risers and have to sit straight up to keep my neck “straight” if I want to ride without my right arm alternately going numb/burning neuropathy.

Regardless of other comments, as indicated, if I don’t climb up on the tank, the GT becomes unstable at speed. The at-speed weave is virtually identical to the weave I get when caught in the slipstream behind various tractor-trailers. 

My FJR had a lot “heavier” front end, the GT is much “lighter”, and my weight/sitting upright exaggerates the issue. 

As I’ve indicated, handguard removal and changing windscreens made it a little “better”, but the tendency was still 100% there.

With regard to the “strangling the bars” comments, gripping the tank with my knees/or relaxing that grip, or indeed gripping the bars only hard enuff to keep the throttle pinned makes zero difference.

Shifting my weight drastically forward is the only thing that reduces/stops it.

Shifting forward also reduces the tendency for the weave from a semi.

My FJR was rock-solid at 145+, my GT starts to wander well below the 132 indicated “shut off”.

Also as indicated, am hoping a different front tire may help some also.

Using Dave Moss’s recommended settings, my front/rear treadwear is looking good, have verified the front/rear condition mechanically, and tried both more and less neck bearing pre-load than the “book” with little effect.

I have not tried removing the panniers because the bike is not really useful for me without them.

Yup. Mine does it as well. 

Have only put 3k miles on it since getting it in June, but seems like a headwind or a stiff wind from about 45 degrees to the right makes it worse. 

Minimal wind or a tail wind seems to be a lot less noticeable.

Have a tall Madstad windshield and had also read about issues with the hand guards. For experimental purposes pulled the hand guards and went back to the stock windscreen. It did reduce the tendency to weave somewhat, but didn’t eliminate it. 

Need to wear some more tread of the OEM tire before I can swap it out and see if that makes a difference. 

I’m 6’ 2”, 195 lbs dressed (33” inseam) and also experience a similar weave at speed unless I practically climb up on the fuel tank-also tried that without handguards/stock windscreen.

Am afraid this winter may have to end up with a FJ-09 GPR stabilizer.

Coming from an FJR (loved it/chronic health issues/needed to down-size), having to spend another $500 on a “new” bike to make it behave a little better is somewhat annoying...

And yes, I’ve tried various neck bearing “pre-load”s, and according to my tire wear have the stock suspension well sorted.   

Hope this helps;

Mark

FJR guys use the plug from the final drive in the engine crankcase, PN 90340-14004-00.

Looks like the Tracer GT uses the same non-magnetic drain plug as the FJR...

On 7/9/2019 at 7:43 PM, runnerhiker said:

Good report, very similar to my findings, except:  I love the quick shift and use it a lot, and heated grips sure come in handy in Colorado.

The only negative I would add is that the I think the thumb wheel should be in the left hand cluster, I use it everytime I ride.  The traction control, which is on the left and I never use, would be better on the right.

This. 

i would trade the RH wheel for changing throttle “mode” and anti-skid “mode” for the LH trigger and up-down toggle to access screens/menus/grip heat in a heartbeat...

31 minutes ago, Anon E Mouse said:

I also have the Chinese one, in black, bought from the Ali site a few weeks ago. Took a couple weeks to arrive. It fits perfectly and works very well.

Taking the advice here, I added a smear of Loctite blue to the screws to prevent them vibrating loose. Another thing I did was wipe the sidestand foot all around with ACF50 before fitting the plate on to it. I think water could find its way inside the new plate and stay there, promoting rusting of the steel sidestand lower area which probably wouldn't be noticed whilst covered by the new plate.

Makes sense to me-mine has only been on the road for a couple months, but had to clean up the “foot” and put a fresh coat of Rustoleum on the already bare bottom surface of it before throwing the plate on.

When my FJR (rode it extended season) was 5 years old had to totally re-paint the center stand-I blame hanging out by the catalytic converter/paint getting baked...

Found mine in the mailbox yesterday, took  3 weeks to arrive. 

Only mod needed was a little filing on the top plate to clear the bottom radius of the “foot” pin. 

Now need to find out whether it is big enuff to stop the stand from sinking in a repaired area in the parking lot at work/they trenched a new storm sewer line through last year and the replacement asphalt was too “sensitive” to lean a Tracer on...

On 8/22/2020 at 2:40 PM, MrFritz86 said:

Actually the radiator guard is already there, completely forgot to mention it, so huge ++++

at the moment I don’t need anything else, suspension and shock felt pretty good, I’m fairly light weight 

 

I think it’s a very good deal

Front fender extension was the first thing I ordered. First trip out of my gravel driveway without a skid lid on listening to all the rocks bouncing off the front of the engine/exhaust made that a no-brainer. Didn’t eliminate it completely but definitely a step in the right direction...

Had my last FJR done with Xzilon?

Basically washed it with water & a microfiber after that.

Eventually (3rd season?) did show some signs of degradation from bug guts and bird crap here and there on the nose...never bothered to have it cleaned up/reapplied.

Paint needs to have any correction done before it’s applied/only way to remove it that I am aware of after application is “mechanically”. I had some boot scuffs on the side panels that got sealed in for posterity.

Still had an awesome gloss/looked wet/beaded water... 

Hope this helps. 

31 minutes ago, angrygirafe said:

Kalashnikitty!

Yup. My personal preference is flower over Punisher skull shirt...

36 minutes ago, knyte said:

Man that looks sooo much better than my generic strip of red reflective, vertical, on each pannier.

Thanks man. 

First FJR had Realtime Industries bag vinyls w/tuning forks, I added his side stripes. When I got my ‘15 I added the tuning fork vinyls and made my own side stripes.

The bag vinyls would work on the Tracer (same base case), but decided different bike, time to try something different.

Wife came home with a Black Friday Cricut a few years back, before Friday was over found software to talk to it and the next day had a Hello Kitty with an AK cut for my truck...

Mark

a couple weeks ago. Is 3M Scotchlite 680 black reflective.

Think it turned out OK.

2020 GT, just turned 2500 miles.

On 1/14/2020 at 7:51 AM, clunkie66 said:

snippage for length not content

The other question is about keeping the bike looking nice and corrosion free - I have heard good things about XCP rust blocker, seems better rated than AC 50.

Cheers,

Colin

Hey Colin;

Haven’t hit the first winter on the GT I got a couple months ago.

Do have years of experience with corrosion protection on various aluminum alloys from inspecting and maintaining things with wings...

Very familiar ACF 50. Is a totally different product than XCP. ACF 50 is not really designed to “fight the elements” is not really a physically protecting film. Is more designed to prevent oxidation from exposure to air and the moisture/corrosive products in air. It dissipates by design, and in typical aviation applications (atomized and applied to essentially bare aluminum inside wings, fuselages, & control surfaces with no real exposure to anything other than “air”) is recommended to be re-applied at least every 24 months. 

Guessing that XCP works more like Boeshield or LPS3 which I am also familiar with. Only issue I can see in your application is that if the corrosive elements get “under” the coating you will still experience corrosion.

Will occasionally need removal, thorough cleaning and re-application.

Most of my winter experience is with an FJR, where all the stuff up front is enclosed/protected. The relay arm and dog bones got pretty ugly appearance-wise, but never experienced any severe pitting/material loss. Just left the center section of the exhaust get ugly also.

Contemplating getting the Tracer exhaust ceramic coated. Haven’t really come up with a firm plan yet for all the lower exposed parts/hardware on the engine...

Only way I can see ACF 50 working is if you thoroughly wash (and dry) and reapply after any real exposure to the “elements”. Will be good sitting in “the shed”.

Will definitely be following this thread for ideas/other experiences.

Hope this helps.

Regards;

Mark

59 minutes ago, Sqbydoo said:

Thanks a lot for taking your time to help me. That is shinning some light for me. So I don't understand then what are the benefits of the remote preload? I was under the impression that you adjust it depending how much wight you put on the bike.

p.s. how to I know what spring I have? 

From what I’ve read, at 195 lbs dressed I need to have the remote control dialed almost all the way in to get the proper amount of sag for the stock shock.

Which means the remote is relatively useless for adjusting for 2-up. If it was re-“sprung” I could have more range of adjustment left for adding a rider.

With regard to going aftermarket vs OEM, could maybe find an slightly used OEM GT from someone that swapped it out.

Guessing someone could help you with the spring replacement recommendation-def beyond my experience level. 

57 minutes ago, quaxum said:

Has anyone adjusted the gear lever position?

Is it possible to adjust since the GT comes with a quickshifter installed?

Has anyone done it yet?

Looking to adjust the gear shifter lever lower by a tad bit.

Yup. Just adjust the rod. I didn’t feel like trying to disconnect the wires so I could rotate “the rod” on the LH&RH threads so ended up pulling the shift lever and disconnecting the rod. 
 

Shift lever pivot needed greased anyways. ..