jamespz03

On 8/26/2022 at 6:09 PM, afineAmerican said:

Last week I rode from San Diego up to Dana Point, over the Ortega and down through Temecula. OBC in Temecula is always a good place to stop for a beer. 

How is Ortega Hwy? I've never done it but heard it's pretty awesome.

On 8/27/2022 at 12:00 AM, afineAmerican said:

The ride in & around Julian is great. I come from the Temecula area & ride to Yuma, AZ for rolled tacos from Mr. G's. 

That sounds like a good place. I usually go to Durons El Zarape when visiting the in-laws.

On 8/25/2022 at 8:14 AM, ItsRichieRich said:

Sounds good to me!

She's turning 32, he request is to sleep in tomorrow morning. Go eat brunch, go on a quick ride on the bike, play top golf and spend all day Saturday/Sunday in PB and downtown.

Yes, happy bday to Mrs. Rich. Bike is back in my hands and I'm ready to ride.

I should get my bike in the next couple of days so I will be ready for some rides. I'm down for local rides and then doing an overnight trip. I've always wanted to do the Monterrey loop but I need to get some endurance as my butt is not meant/ready for longs days in the saddle.

20 minutes ago, ItsRichieRich said:

Sweet, the more the better! Just promise me you guys don't ride like the sport bike guys... I'm over that shit.

What is the issue with the bike? I was looking at a Tracer 900 GT before buying this FJ-09 last night.

LOL, says the guy with a knee down.....I'm there just to enjoy the ride. When I get there, I get there so I'll be the slow guy in the back.

I'm having very bad vibrations and it's not something I want to live with and I don't think it's normal. 

If I'm on the freeway, and go above 60, the entire handlebar has strong vibrations that you can actually see it moving. The mirrors are then of course unusable. The engine is also pretty vibey and even if I go from 72 to 75mph I can feel it get worse. The right side is consistently worse than the left.

Sometimes the mirror thing happens on very smooth roads only going 50mph although the vibrations aren't as bad. I have added rubber footpegs and heavy bar end weights (I removed the finger guards). 

I'm hoping the 4k service helps (change of oil and look at the TBS) and I'll have them check the front tire balance and anything else they can think of thanks to suggestions from this forum. I take it to National City motorcycles and that's where I got the tires put on as well. At this point, it's a fantastic canyon carver but I can't do long distance freeway because my right hand hurts too bad. Even on the backroads it can be bad. I got the suspension tuned and the guy said my front sping was way too weak for my weight so I'm not sure if that's part of it. I don't want to spend money on suspension if I'm not keeping it.

With all of this said, I'm sure it's just something with my bike alone. It's my first big bike so I'm not sure if some of this is normal. My previous, and first, bike was a 2016 Honda CB500F and it's a little 50hp twin. Even going 80 on the freeway with that bike was noticeably smoother than this triple.

Again, this is a problem with my bike so I'm sure your FJ is going to be loads of fun.

I'm down for a ride and don't believe Wanderer, he's fast.

I have to take my bike in for the 4K service and see if they can fix the issues I'm having. If not, I plan on selling it. I'm also busy but depending on where you live and want to go will determine how often I can join you guys!
Congrats on the new purchase!!

Sorry for your loss!

Drove that in my truck but decided on not towing up or down it. It's very beautiful country!

16 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Something else to perhaps consider - when was the last time you had the throttle bodies synced?

First service and I plan to have them checked during the next planned service at 4K. Thank you.

14 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

 If while running at say 77MPH and you pull in clutch and coast do the vibrations change?  Tires and road surfaces do make a difference but from your description sounds like much more than a road surface.

 

I will try that next time I ride. I noticed before on this same stretch of freeway so this was my confirmation ride and I did a huge loop of 4-5 freeways. All roads seem rough at times, even silky smooth roads (there's always some type of handlebar vibration. Thank you.

3 hours ago, Grumpy Goat said:

OP never commented on the state of balance of his wheels, especially the front. That is the first thing to check and can have the biggest impact on this vibration he says he's having.

 

I had the tires changed in the last 6 months to get rid of the handlebar wobble as well. I can only assume it was balanced correctly. Thank you.

16 hours ago, roadrash83 said:

 It's not going to get better with time unfortunately. I would suspect the chain is the problem at least it was on 19 900GT, check for kinked links and make sure the chain is adjusted correctly.  

I will inspect the chain. Thank you.

I know this has been a subject talked about before but when on the freeway @75ish+, I get really bad handlebar and engine vibration. I did add bar end weights and rubber footpegs, which helped for speeds below this. My mirrors are completely unusable they are vibrating so much (it actually makes my eyes and head hurt). I tested the vibrations on different parts of the handlebars and it was very noticeable at each test spot. The rubber foot pegs have tons of virbrations too. I'm nearing my 4k service but I'm just not sure if there's an issue or if this is normal and will smooth out over time.

Based on the post I linked, some have stated it smoothed out over time. Some changed oil brands and new chains helped. This was in the 5000-5500 RPM range, which I think aligns with some of the posts.

Not sure if I should do the BB's in the handlebar trick, get it checked out, wait it out, replace with heavier front springs, etc..I did have the TBS checked on first service but with how that went, I don't trust the dealer to be truthful about it. So maybe having those checked during the 4k will shed some light.

Any insight appreciated.

Standard mode for me full time. If I ever feel like something is off/wrong, I notice I somehow moved it to A mode. 

Is there a huge difference between cartridges vs just upgrading springs and valves? I’m not sure which one I want to do and if I’d see a noticeable improvement if I went the more expensive route. 
 

I’m looking at doing a full k-tech upgrade, not sure if I should spring for cartridges or just get close enough by replacing springs/valves  

thanks for any insight. 

Thanks. I might pick up the new one. I want the P.P. rear hugger but shipping costs are high to the U.S. So, where are you going/went?

Nice looking bike. Is that the new ermax sport screen?

On 2/26/2022 at 9:53 PM, Larz said:

ran Conti Road Attack 3, decent but rear wore out real fast. 

How many miles did you get? And I'm assuming you were on top of tire pressures 36/42?

46 minutes ago, Grumpy Goat said:

This is the bit that gives me pause. I assume you are speaking about drilling out the holes in the yoke on the mount, and not the holes in the pegs themselves.

Assuming the pins are the same diameter left and right, if the right side fits without drilling out why would the left side holes need to be enlarged? Are the Yamaha yoke holes odd, left and right?

I also

It's super easy and don't stress about it. If the peg starts to shift when you're drilling, stop. That means it's ready to be pushed out and your bike won't be damaged. I re-used the existing springs and put the C-clips on both pegs. It's feels strong and I've stood up on it already. The cotter pin is just for extra protection vs. a clip.

As Betoney mentioned, they are the same size but they are connected differently on each side. Clutch side is a flat "rivet" type thing that you drill through. The brake side is a cotter pin that you first straigthen, then pull out.

Quick and easy. You got this!!

For sure. Let me know if you want more.

I just finished putting on new footpegs and wanted to share what I bought in case others want to do the same.

I bought these  for $22 and they fit great. They feel like they'll hold up and install was a breeze ~15 minutes total. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.

You will need to drill the clutch side out but it takes about 15 seconds. 1/2 bit should do it. I simply had my wife hold my shopvac below the bit to catch any shavings. Right side is just straigthening and pulling out a pin.

Time for a beer.

@Rdecae81 I'm sorry for your losses and I hope your sister recovers. Parts can wait, family first. 🙂

On 1/31/2022 at 4:13 PM, roadrash83 said:

Any chance you might have gotten some gas, chain lube or some other crap on the grip. Try cleaning the grip off with isopropyl alcohol and see if that helps. I'm right handed so my right hand is always the dirty and oily one and I often get the throttle grip dirty.

This solved my issue. I've been pretty stressed lately at work and interviewing for a new job, etc. so I didn't correlate getting my bar-end weights installed and this. The shop must have sprayed something on the right grip only and after cleaning with alcohol, it's much better. 

Thank you @roadrash83 and to everyone else for you help. What a great forum with very helpful people. I'm happy I chose this bike more so because of all of you vs. the bike itself.

On 1/18/2022 at 2:33 PM, kilo3 said:

@Rdecae81You ever get anywhere on this? Color me interested.

Me as well @Rdecae81

3 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

What type of gloves do you wear?  That seems like very premature wear on the throttle grip.  Mine has over 19,000 miles with no appreciable wear.  My Kawasaki has 37,000 miles on the original grips with no issues. 

I have an older pair of Astars that do need to be replaced. However, I wore my track gloves and they experienced the same thing. It's just super slippery. 

11 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

I have 19500 miles on my ‘19 GT.  The previous owner installed Grip Puppies over the stock grips prior to my purchase of the bike with 4400 miles on it.  I like them and they show no wear.  The GT does have a slightly stiff throttle pull which requires one to probably hold the grip tighter leading to some wear.  I doubt the dealer will warrantee the grip but it doesn’t hurt to ask as it does sound like premature wear with only 3500 miles on your bike.

https://grip-puppy.com

Thanks. Do these interfere with the heated grips functionality?

I have less than 3,500 miles and it’s already worn out and hard to get keep a grip. It’s noticeably smoother than the clutch grip. Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone know if this is covered under warranty?

Thanks,

James

I went back and forth on the Bridgestone S22's and Continental Road Attack 3's. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered them in early Nov. from my shop and they were put on yesterday. Yeah, shipping delays were surprising.

First impressions: The bike felt planted yet silky smooth on all surfaces. I think it fixed quite a bit of harsh feedback from the OEM tires (rough on smooth surfaces, lots of buzz in the handlebars, rough riding over bumps (think teeth chattering), etc.

I only took them for about a 30 minute ride but it was amazing. Smooth in turns over bumps, I could easily adjust (sharpen) lines mid-turn, etc. This was riding about 50%. They are worth the money imo and I got them fairly cheaper since my shop was willing to price match. 

I know this is a short, short term review but I'm in love already. Consider them if you're looking for new tires.

Thanks to @daboo for the solid recommendation.