Butrzrulz

Can you post a pic of the interface with the clutch switch?

It's by a company called Techmount.

Installed pullback risers on my '20 900 GT. Link here. Installation took all of 10 minutes. 30mm up and 20mm back. Doesn't sound like much, but good golly miss molly!! I am now in a full on comfort zone, lol. I am 5'-7" with a 30" inseam. The stock position is slightly forward for me, and with these I'm in a much more comfortable upright position.

So given that there are potential issues with some of those lever choices, do ANY accurately replicate the stock lever when it comes to clutch switch engagement? I managed to print out a part to make my current levers cruise control friendly, but would rather have a properly machined lever.

Thanks for the info guys. Anyone know of any US distributed levers that work? This is the first bike I've ever had issues with as far as aftermarket levers (I have gotten the cheaper e-bay levers for my last 4 bikes with no issues). I saw both those levers referenced in other threads. Can you guys provide any pics showing how these levers interact with the clutch lever switch (like the ones I provided)?

Do they work with the factory cruise control? Do you have part numbers? I wish their website would move out of the late 90's lol. As I mentioned, I was hoping to find some US distributed levers mainly for ease of return if needed (they do have a US distributor listed, but they do not show levers for the Tracer 900 GT).

My fellow 900 GT owners. Those of you who have switched to aftermarket adjustable levers, which ones actually work to properly allow engagement of the factory cruise control?? I recently added some e-bay levers that had this issue. Upon further research I found that others may have encountered this as well. I can probably 3D print something to correct this, but want to know what others have found. Any US distributors stock levers that work? Someone mentioned that MT-10 levers do the trick, can anyone confirm? These aftermarket ones in particular are just a but too short an farther back with the "switch arm" (I don't know what it's called). I did not see pictures of the issue, so here are some for those that want to know (stock levers first):

I don't know if this is the case for everyone, but I got a user manual for FJR1300 cases in my tracer GT cases. The lid part numbers are : 5JW-W9340-0L-XX AND 5JW-W9340-0R-XX But, for some reason, they are crazy expensive.

I used a TechMount pivoting bar mount for my Garmin Montana 600. The Tracer is the 3rd bike I have used this system/gps on and it works great.

Just curious, but why soft bags instead of the factory hard bags? Capacity? You can easily increase capacity by changing to the the FJR "lids".

I used the "hinge arms" on my BMW, but switched to the angle only setup for my CTX 1300. Since my experience with the stock CTX shield was similar to that of the Tracer (I like a quiet pocket of dead air) I left it in that configuration. The hole template is the same no matter which version you install.

Today, I installed my trusty MRA X-Creen Tour on my stock 900 GT screen. This will be the third bike that this screen has been installed on (previous bikes were a Honda CTX 1300 and a BMW F800 GT). Installation is pretty straightforward. This screen can be installed with extension arms that give you height adjustment in addition to angle or with just angle adjustment (which is what used for the 900 GT). I chose this method since there is already height adjustment available with the stock screen. I'm 5'-7" and while I didn't experience the more extreme buffeting/turbulence that others have with the stock screen I wanted to see if this would clean up what little issues I felt. So did it? It sure did. While I was pretty comfortable before, I am now very comfortable. I have it angled forward and it's effect is really felt in the higher position as the dead air around my helmet allows me to easily ride with my visor up. In the lowest position it still provides a decent dead air pocket, but more air flows over the top of my helmet. So, I'm pretty happy with the results and will leave on. In the pics below you will see the position I settled on. the minimum recommended installation location is 25mm below the top of the screen. I have it almost double that.

Installed an MRA X-Creen Tour and Grip Puppies. More details on the X-Creen will be posted over in the 900 GT forum.

Mods Please delete, wrong forum/thread.

A lot of it depends on how you grip and use the levers. If you are a "two finger" lever guy, shorty levers are great. With regular length levers you are hitting the knuckles of the other two fingers. If you use 3 or 4 fingers on the levers, then the shorty length is not really of use. But, you can get these in the standard length. The ease of adjustably is a big bonus. A quick flick of the lever as opposed to having to try and turn those annoyingly low profile dials (especially if you have gloves on).

Almost always my first change to any bike, I installed shorty adjustable levers. Why these style (quick click style position changer) aren't stock on all bikes I'll never know. For those that are interested click here. These in particular are from a US seller, but I've never had any issues with these e-bay levers. Of course, the hand guards made installation a few minutes longer than normal but it was more of an annoyance than anything. I did have to run out and get a 17mm box wrench (oddly enough I had 15, 16 and 18 sizes, lol).

Sorry gents, but I have too much experience riding in rain, lol. And while I agree that is an essential skill, texascottyd can attest to the fact that choosing to ride in the rain + Houston area traffic is not a great idea if you can avoid it.

I assume no US distributors?

I stared at my barely ridden 900 GT (not even two weeks in my possession) and shed a tear because it has rained every single day since I bought her, and it's not supposed to clear up until next week.

Even after reading all kinds of reviews, watching videos, etc. It's still a crapshoot. I go through this with every new bike, and have been fortunate enough to get lucky and usually get it right the first or second try. I'm trying to decide between the MRA Vario Tour (I've had great success with their bolt on X-creen) and the Puig Tour with Visor. I also had great luck with Puig screens. My big problem is that I want my screen to look good as well as function so I'm self limiting myself a bit.

And of course, after that, you learn the feel of "dang, went too far". That's when you learn all about rethreading methods, haha!

I installed my trusty Garmin Montana 600. This will be the third bike it's traveled on, and although the screen has a gray line on it now, still works great! I used one of the unused (light gray) switched power connectors behind the windscreen mount (the blanking cap is removed in the picture) Pretty easy, I used the same method as my previous install on my BMW F800 GT. I used the blank cap (removing the silicone plugs) that is installed on the plug and ran my wires through it and into the plug. I then run the blank cap down to connect it and backfill it with epoxy.

That's a pretty decent crack, and riding it in this condition is risky. You'll be heating and cooling that area and creating a stress riser. Last thing you want is that crack to grow while riding and have a massive oil loss event (also bad news for your rear tire). If you insist on doing it, throw some JB Weld over it and hope for the best.

Well, nothing can be worse than my CTX 1300 (that I traded in) as far as access. You pretty much have to remove all the fairings to do ANYTHING!! The best thing about being shorter (5'-7") is that most windscreens work for me (and I always wear earplugs). But we'll see after I put some miles on her where I stand on that. I've had great success with the MRA X-Creen (of which I happen to have laying around) which I will try first if needed.

I'm out in the Pearland area, west side near 288.