Sunde

Long distance my Tracer is better than my old VFR 1200, much better than the GSX-S1000 also
I think you'll find it very much fits the role of a "fun sportsbike" + a good tourer. 

17 hours ago, var0522 said:

I've got over 4k miles on it... I've adjusted it as well as it could be with the stock levers. If I didn't have options, I could live with it. It would just take a couple stop and starts to adjust back to where it engages. 

When I say its my main gripe, its because there isn't really anything else I can complain about the bike. Its been fantastic so far. 

 

It was really also my only issue, apart from the new "small jerk" that occurs when i decel below 3k rpm (came after the factory reflash). I dont really notice that anymore however. It really is a very very complete machine. 

18 hours ago, var0522 said:

My main gripe with the bike is how far out the clutch has to be released before you start to get any friction, let alone full clutch engagement. After riding my SV650 I find that I am overrevving the Tracer, anticipating an earlier engagement. It takes a few stop and starts to get reacquainted with it. 

Finding a decent set of replacement levers hasn't exactly been easy. After searching for in-stock levers and/or levers that were actually a fitment for the 2021 Tracer, I decided to purchase the Puig Levers 3.0. 

The downside, they aren't making the correct clutch fixation block 21113N until October (according to the customer service representative that I spoke with). 

However, if you can live without the handguards for a little while, the clutch fixation block 8873N does work (the handguard brackets interfere and don't allow the clutch to return completely if you try to mount them back up with this block). 

So I will run the bike without them until the correct part is released and then replace it and put the handguards back on. Meanwhile, I have the clutch lever installed and the selector two clicks away from the closest setting. While this doesn't actually change the fact that the engagement is still at the end of the travel, it does make it feel better since the lever travel is shorter overall. 

Is your bike brand new?
 The clutch on my bike whent through a BIG change after first the service. 
Something about "friction modifiers" in the factory oil.
My clutch changede completely after the break in period, before break in it was VERY slippy and hard to get a smooth launch. 

Even if there are general settings that you should aim for when setting suspension, at the end of the day it also comes down to your preferences. So if you "feel" the need to make it softer/harder/faster/slower i'd just do it. Dial it in the way you like it

Keep the settings set up by the shop as a baseline. Or take it to someone who will adjust it whilst you are on the bike etc. But again there is not 1 "correct" setting. It varies on preference, skill etc. 

4 hours ago, Yamajank said:

I’ll take the FJR dash over the new 9 any day.  That thing is hideous.  Thankful I have the 2019 GT. 

Always hillarious how so many people bash the T9 dash whilst in fact its 100% fine. Its just such a nitpicky thing that people keep bringing up as if it is somehow a "huge problem". 

Having owned 6 bikes i'v had exactly 0 problems with the T9's dash. Its not beautiful, that much is true... Who gives a crap tho lol, cant imagine choosing or not choosing a bike because of the dash.
The fact that the dash splits in fact means that navigation aid or Phone mount can be mounted in such a way that it sits right in the middle between the displays. Cant do that on any other bike i know of without loosing screen real estate.
Get over it already lol
Thankfully the T9 is also better in every conceivable way compared to the Tracer 900.
So even a below average dash is hardly a deal breaker. Unless you have crap for vision, in that case i can see the issue. Also unsure if you should be riding in that case.

6 hours ago, Tuncay said:

Did you have this problem after the software?

Exactly
after the software update (reflash) this happend
My bike did not have this issue before the reflash.
In general i think the reflash made the engine better i must say, it did add this unfortunate quirk however.

Known issue, its not a "general" tracer issue, only with the newest gen and only if you'v had the ECU recall done.
My Yamaha mechanic can do nothing about it he says. Its just how its gonna be, which is a shame even if its only a very small nitpick. 

Grats on your Tracer 9! (not 900!) 😝
 Pics?
BMW K1300GT is a good bike, i traded my VFR 1200 for the T9. 
The heavy fast bikes are fun, but man the T9 is much more playfull and light, yet still retains the great highway comfort (if you know how to setup/mod the windscreen especially) and also THANK god for cruise control!

I have no issues with the seat on mine. Maybe me being 24 is the primary reason. You should see the stock seat honda shipped the VFR1200 with LOL. 

Dash is meh, i can see what i need to see so its not an issue. The fact that they are making it "in-line" with practically every other motorcycle out there (just a small ipad) does nothing for me in all honesty, I kinda like having something that looks different and i appreciate Yamaha trying something new.

 Cruise control wise it would be nice to be able to engage it at slower speeds, but tbh in city traffic i wouldn't use it anyway. It works for highway mile munching, and that's what i need it for.

The rear brake on mine is perfect, 0 change needed.

Throttle is good too, at least compared to similar priced bikes there are no issues with the T9, they just need to remove the strange "hump" that occurs when you decelerate. 

5 hours ago, roy826 said:

The Suzuki was a pre order from the get go. If you’ve seen one on the dealers floor it was because original buyer backed out lost deposit most likely or not. Whatever he she lost out on an incredible motorcycle. It’s so fast and so right In the chassis department something the tracer really lacked for me. I loved the CP3 engine but it over taxed the tracer chassis. Which ain’t fully boxed and looks the business from the side but behind all that it’s like a cheap half  ton pickup with no boxed frame. The Suzuki rocks GSXR all the way to the swingarm which is off the 2009-2016 bikes. Ain’t no wiggle on the GSXS up to cutoff at 156 she got plenty after that if you unleash it with a flash. It’ll haul ass! It’s everything I wanted and I’m all Suzuki always been but I did buy Yamaha along the way and I ain’t gonna lie Yamaha quality and reliability BUT let’s be honest Yamaha ain’t offering no one an R1 with bags, Suzuki did and it’s a GSXR and don’t be fooled I knew that when I ordered up front. I’ve road raced long time and owned GSXRs for ever and this is what I’ve been waiting my whole life for. Is it good, yes, is it good in the turns, absolutely yes and it does not wiggle past 130 it just keeps pulling until bs euro cutoff at 156. Same as my old GSXS 1000 naked from 2016 same engine! 

Yamaha quality is 100% on the money, but dont be fooled, Suzuki knows how to make engines, i think you made  a good choice with your bike. 

Having owned the GSX-S1000 (naked version) i can say that the engine is freaking nuts. So much power!
 But the fact that it could do 137kmh in first gear was simply not okay, i could never really wring its neck without doing stupid speeds. Had to get rid of it simply because it made me ride in a way that really was not ideal.
Everything about the bike was great tho, was a blast around the Nürburgring! 

If they have changed the gearing on the new bike i think it could be a real winner, the K5 motor is fantastic. One of the best sounding 4 bangers ever (imo)

Obviously you can get unlucky with any bike/manufacturer. The dealer who i bought my Tracer from (obviously wanted to sell a bike) but he made it pretty clear that they really dont deal with many recall/issues on Yamaha. He has been selling all kinds of bikes for 40 years and know his way around things.
 Obviously this is in europe, but still.
I think you can be pretty confident in buying something like a T9 or MT09 2021+ model. 

Agree with Krusty
So far what i'v picked up plenty of clickity clack traits with my CP3.
When cold the most dominant sound i pick that falls out of the "normal" operation sound to me at least, is the cam chain. It can on my bike clap / click abit when the bike has just been turned on. I think this is pretty normal considering how the cam chain is set up? Makes sense to me at least.
 Clutch makes noise, no idea what part but its mostly noticeable when i pull the clutch in and when i am stationary. 
Valves and and the rest of the engine to me sound very good (mostly) sometimes some odd noise will creep in, and next day i wont notice it anymore eheh... I am 24 and my hearing is pretty much okay i think!

I think my engine felt and sounded better after i ensured that my oil level was "topped off". My dealer left it a little close to the "low" mark for my liking. Placebo likely playing a HUGE part in that observation however. 

My rear brake is easily pushed into the ABS. Takes firm pushing on the pedeal, but not an excessive amount. If you cant activate the ABS by applying hard rear brake pressure, then IMO you need to get your brake checked
I live on the rear brake for constant small adjustments, so maybe my heavy usage leads to it having more bite? No idea although

35 minutes ago, FZ1FZ1 said:

Brilliant!  Thanks Kavvo. 👍

I've just got my bike, so having all the torque settings from the book makes it easier to set it up to how I like it

Mind you, I've already ballsed-up fitting the Eazi-Grip screen protector (got a couple of bubbles under it).  Still, at least it'll keep the screen scratch-free until I summon-up the courage to have another go at it! 😆

Cheers,

Jon

 

Mine did not come out perfect either
I swear it was a lot harder than people made it sound lol! Most of the bubbles and stuff did slowely vanish over time on mine btw, maybe same case for you. 

Yeah other than the reflash/recall my T9 has also not had any issues.
I'v done just under 9.000kms so far its been flawless. The clutch was odd for the first 1000kms, but after the first oilchange it became muuch better. 

8 hours ago, petshark said:

that is so true, if I try to imagine never having known the Tracer 900 I probably would have thought that the XR was the holy grail and be in debt right now. it's only when getting back on the Tracer that I realised that the CP3 engine is so great, playful and balanced that it soured the XR experience. Twice in a row. (I tried to explain that on an XR forum. Big mistake  )

The KTM 1290 engine does nothing for me. The Tracer never felt more refined than after that test ride but that's another story.

"that it soured the XR experience. Twice in a row. (I tried to explain that on an XR forum. Big mistake )"
Haaaah i dont doubt it for a second! Some fanbases can be VERY aggressive as i can tell you are aware off.
I'd like to think most of us could resist the urge to take it as a personal insult if someone came on this forum with complaints about the Tracer? I digress. 
  I think you should give the T9 a good look again, they did really go in the right direction (at least mechanically) asthetics are a personal thing obviously. But i can pretty much gather than the new gen T9/T9GT is a good allround evolution of the Tracer 900. 
 

I am 100% onboard with what you are saying.
 Having owned bikes like the GSX-S1000 and a VFR 1200, bikes that have much more "oomph" than the T9 on paper but in reality are not really "mindblowingly" more potent or fun to ride. The T9 has somewhat ruined bikes for me, in the best way possible mind you.
 But even trying my friends new Superduke (which is hillarious and nutty in all the ways you'd except) i still wasn't BLOWN AWAY compared to my T9. 
Yes it has power, but it ran kind rough and honestly did not feel very "quality".
And my T9 has all the electronic gadgets i'd want on a bike. 

The T9 really is the holy grail of totally OK. 
 Which means getting something that is plain "better" is actually quite hard.
Unless you are happy buying something twice as expensive anyway. 

1 hour ago, jthayer09 said:

In the states the base level Tracer 9 isn't offered so you're comparing an MT-09 base spec to the Tracer 9 GT. The base Tracer 9 is only a few hundred more than the MT-09.

The T9GT also has electronic suspension, touring seat, heated grips, cruise control, cornering LEDs, hand guards, larger fuel tank (1.2 Gal larger), and a stronger sub frame with higher payload capacity.

The MT-09 SP is a better comparison to the Tracer 9 GT.

Worth noting that the only difference between the Tracer 9 and Tracer 9GT is suspension, grips and seat. + luggage i guess
You can quickly make a basemodel Tracer 9 into the GT spec in all ways except the suspension.  
Just wanna clear that up, your comment kinda makes it sound like the Tracer 9 does not have cruise control, coner LED's, hand guards etc. 

11 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

That's an improperly set up oiler.  May as well argue that a picture of a guy with a rusted out chain and sprockets is what happens when you don't have an auto oiler.  

Both my bikes have oilers (Tutoro's) and neither are environmental disasters on wheels, neither makes a big mess.  If you're making a big mess with it, the flow rate is set way too high.  They're adjustable for a reason. 

Oilers aren't for everyone for sure.  If you're just riding in nicer conditions, and it's not particularly dusty where you live, or you're not riding a whole lot?  Not really worth the trouble.  If you really, really like chain maintenance, then have at it.  If I where a guy who just occassionally rides in the summer for fun, I'd not bother with an auto oiler either.

As a guy who rides 100 miles every two days year round excluding day rides and trips?  That's nuts.  I mean, how do you do that without getting dirty?  What are you doing with rags, oil, are you SUPER careful or do you wear gloves?  I've done it, before getting oilers - I ride in the winter, which means riding in literal brine, slush, snow, rain.  A chain that's not lubricated is a chain that's rusted, and you'll kill a chain in a single winter if you don't clean and lube it with extreme regularity.  Or you get an auto oiler, set it up correctly and forget about it, knowing you're going to get good chain life.  

But yeah, I'd argue, for most motorcyclists, they're probably not worth the trouble.  I'd also argue most motorcyclists are filthy casuals 😃

I'll say this: I've never, not once in my life, seen anyone do what you suggest on a trip.  Never.  I mean, it works for you and that's great, but you have to know you're the odd one there.  Sure, on a several thousand mile trip, a clean and lubing of chains happens a couple times, but on a 300 mile day ride?  Not once in 30+ years of riding have I seen anyone so much as wipe a chain.  And the people I ride with tend to be pretty maintenance focused and do take care of their bikes - mostly because we get rid of the people who don't, as they end up being problems on trips.

I never said i did it every 100 miles, so no idea why you are so hung up on that honestly. I just stated that its not a particuarly time consuming thing to do.

 And in MY experience auto oilers make a mess of bikes more so than my procedure.
I do it once a day when touring (if i ride all day) and it takes a couple of mins (i put on latex gloves), I dont find it a big hassle, if many of you guys find it so difficult then luckily there are plenty of other ways to maintain a chain.
Just a note on auto oilers.
All it can do is put lube onto existing lube(duh), but if it does not fling off the chain (in your case your bike is clean so it cant be flinging off) then logic must dictate that it sticks to the chain, which means dust and other abrasives also stick. Obviously this is fine as long as you wipe this off now and then. 
But at that point i personally dont see the huge gain over my own method. If i rode my bike in winter or for long distances every day, my view would probably be different. I dont see any other way of keeping the chain properly lubricated at that point. 

5 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

If your the sort to want to make sure it's liked every 100m, then just buy a damned auto oiler.  My Tutoros cost about $130 each and have been bulletproof, chains are permanently well lubricated.  

At every 100m, you'd be hand oiling multiple times per day.  That's nuts. 

Sure, it's easy to do, but .. yikes. 

My experience with auto oilers does 100% testify to your claim of a well lubed chain.
Also means lube everwhere else though!
 I have a mate who runs a scottoiler, by the time he has his helmet off and has lit his cigarette my chain is looking new again.
 His bike on the other hand looks like an enviromental disaster on wheels. I refuse to roll around with a rearwheel/numberplateholder covered in oil. (Not to mention all the unseen bits) All the bikes i'v seen with scottoilers etc always makes the deepwaterhorizion incident look like a drop in the ocean.

My chain = right side, even after a full day of riding.
My mate = left side
We do not get equal lifespan from our chains, in case anyone is wondering. 

15 minutes ago, Rick123 said:

Seriously? Every 100 miles every single link? It make me wonder how long did it take you to cross the country?

Takes like 5 mins, you drip the oil on either directly or wipe it on with a cloth, spin the wheel a few times and wipe of excess to avoid turning your bike into a murderscene.
 I do the same when i am on a long trip, its not like an hourlong procedure haha. 

Sound pretty normal to me if you ride spirited.
Can easly kill a chain faster than that even with religious maintenance. 
At least for the climate i am used to. 

I usually keep my 2021 in B mode for road riding.

There is a definite difference between B and A, and i could easly leave it in A mode. Only reason that i am not is simply that the bike feels more urgent, responsive and "fast" i A mode. Something i really dont need when dealing with traffic as i just end up going too fast... hehe
 A mode is awesome for a twisty road or track. In my opinon A mode makes the bike handle they way it should. B mode is just more relaxed

19 hours ago, Ride365 said:

Good write up, but you can ride bikes on the track there without making them 100% track ready and not street legal? 😲

Not a problem where i live, just gotta put some tape on glass surfaces and you are good to go