Premium Member clint Posted December 7, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 7, 2015 It's common knowledge that at some time Yamaha sold "unpainted" FJR-1300 saddlebags that had a nice dark grey finish (perfect for the grey FJ) and MSRP at $380 each ($318 on BikeBandit). But, they are no longer available. Damn! They looked nice! 5PSW07530L00 SIDE CASE LEFT UNPAINTED - NOT AVAILABLE 5PSW07530R00 SIDE CASE RIGHT UNPAINTED - NOT AVAILABLE HOWEVER!!! The LIDS ARE available for around $165.00 each! (20% discount at a friendly dealer who had them priced at $205.76) LID LEFT UNPAINTED 5PS-W9340-0L-00 - Available LID RIGHT UNPAINTED 5PS-W9340-0R-00 - Available Got mine in today! Just a matter of drilling out the existing pop-rivets and installing the new lid! SWEET!!!! Finished! Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efjay Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted December 7, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 7, 2015 Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw.Deleted pics of other owners bikes. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotboot Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 I like the matching flat look. Just dont ask me if your ass looks fat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efjay Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Oh I didn't mean you to delete it. I was just saying how awesome my bike looked with unpainted pannier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member smiley Posted December 8, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 8, 2015 looks great! Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertfjr Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw.Installing the new lids is not rocket science...open the bag and take note of the small black plates at each hinge on the inside of the lid. They are tough to see as they are between the lid cover and the inner liner of the lid. You do not want to lose or dislodge those. They are held in place by sticky tape but they can come loose. Don't ask how I know...I just know. I would fish a piece of tape in there to keep them from moving just in case. Those plates are what the rivets engage to on the inside of the bag. The lid is sandwiched between the hinge and that plate. With the bag closed, turn it over and look at the hinge points. Those are the 4 rivets you need to drill out. Grab your drill bits and find the bit that's the size of the rivet. Bump the drill trigger and drill off the top of the rivet. You don't need to drill all the way through. Be careful and go slow...It will most likely wrap itself around the bit whens it's clear. Drill all 4 rivets off. Carefully open the bag when done. A helper is nice. I used a flat blade screw driver to hold the inner plate in position and then pushed the remaining portion of the rivet through the hole. You will need a rivet tool and rivets. I can't remember the length off the top of my head...I think they were 3/8" or 1/2" in length. They will help you find the right ones at the hardware store. Reverse the procedure to install the new lids...it really is quite easy. I give the job a 2 wrench out of 5 rating for difficulty. I only give it a 2 because some people are challenged by power tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted December 9, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 9, 2015 Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw.Installing the new lids is not rocket science...open the bag and take note of the small black plates at each hinge on the inside of the lid. They are tough to see as they are between the lid cover and the inner liner of the lid. You do not want to lose or dislodge those. They are held in place by sticky tape but they can come loose. Don't ask how I know...I just know. I would fish a piece of tape in there to keep them from moving just in case. Those plates are what the rivets engage to on the inside of the bag. The lid is sandwiched between the hinge and that plate. With the bag closed, turn it over and look at the hinge points. Those are the 4 rivets you need to drill out. Grab your drill bits and find the bit that's the size of the rivet. Bump the drill trigger and drill off the top of the rivet. You don't need to drill all the way through. Be careful and go slow...It will most likely wrap itself around the bit whens it's clear. Drill all 4 rivets off. Carefully open the bag when done. A helper is nice. I used a flat blade screw driver to hold the inner plate in position and then pushed the remaining portion of the rivet through the hole. You will need a rivet tool and rivets. I can't remember the length off the top of my head...I think they were 3/8" or 1/2" in length. They will help you find the right ones at the hardware store. Reverse the procedure to install the new lids...it really is quite easy. I give the job a 2 wrench out of 5 rating for difficulty. I only give it a 2 because some people are challenged by power tools. It's easier than that actually. If you're simply replacing lids, there is no need to bother with anything other than drilling out the rivet caps on the LID side of the hinge. What's left inside the lid liner doesn't come into play unless your are going to re-use the lid. There are new plates already secured to the inside of the new lids. First, I did all the work with the lids attached to the bike. This holds it firmly. Use an 11/64 or 5/32 bit and simply drill off the cap. This takes about 10 seconds. As you mentioned, the cap will likely wind itself around the drill bit. Once the rivet caps are off you can unlock the lid and remove. Pay attention to how the tension cord is attached to the lid! Purchase regular aluminum 5/32 x 1/4 grip range pop (hidden) rivets ($5). Working alone, I attached the tension cord to the lid and placed the lid within 1 inch of being closed, taping the top to hold it in place. Working from the bottom, I inserted all four rivets in place to keep things in-line and used the tool applying upward pressure to ensure the surfaces are fully mated. So easy. Looks great, works great. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdl1977 Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 You know, you can avoid all the drilling and riveting by bending back the tab on the hinge and pushing out the pin. Just be careful when bending that tab. That's what I did with my lids when I got them painted. You might consider doing this instead of drilling etc. Also another tip I got from the FJR-1300 forum was to loctite (blue) the screws that hold in the locks. You'll need a star driver bit but they said there were some circumstances of those locks loosening up and falling out and guess what happens when that happens - the bag falls off. Just thought I'd mention that as you are putting on new bags. IMO these FJR bags are the nicest option and you already have 1/2 of the mounting brackets you need AND when the bags are off the bike the brackets look the best - most inconspicuous - again IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted December 9, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 9, 2015 You know, you can avoid all the drilling and riveting by bending back the tab on the hinge and pushing out the pin. Just be careful when bending that tab. That's what I did with my lids when I got them painted. You might consider doing this instead of drilling etc. Also another tip I got from the FJR-1300 forum was to loctite (blue) the screws that hold in the locks. You'll need a star driver bit but they said there were some circumstances of those locks loosening up and falling out and guess what happens when that happens - the bag falls off. Just thought I'd mention that as you are putting on new bags. IMO these FJR bags are the nicest option and you already have 1/2 of the mounting brackets you need AND when the bags are off the bike the brackets look the best - most inconspicuous - again IMO. Not true. The new lids don't come with "their" half of the hinge mounted. You have to use the existing hinge-half, so drilling and re-riveting is required. If you're simply removing and re-attaching the existing lid, then yes, you can bend back the tab carefully. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fj09 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Is that an after market seat that you have on your FJ? Looks good. So, I had the same dilemma where I wanted FJR bags but none to be found in the USA. I actually found a website: https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/I found both the left and right side (unpainted) bags + the lock sets for under $900 including shipping! They wanted over $1300 for them in the US! My next question is a fender eliminator option with Rizoma signals added - need it to work with the rear luggage bags so the signal mounts will need to be above the license plate. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted January 6, 2016 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 6, 2016 If anyone has now swapped out their lids and would like to sell me their original "right side" lid, I'd love to buy it from you. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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