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New FJR1300 Saddlebag Lids...unpainted!


clint

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It's common knowledge that at some time Yamaha sold "unpainted" FJR-1300 saddlebags that had a nice dark grey finish (perfect for the grey FJ) and MSRP at $380 each ($318 on BikeBandit). But, they are no longer available. Damn! They looked nice!
 
 
5PSW07530L00 SIDE CASE LEFT UNPAINTED
- NOT AVAILABLE
5PSW07530R00 SIDE CASE RIGHT UNPAINTED
 - NOT AVAILABLE
 
HOWEVER!!! The LIDS ARE available for around $165.00 each! (20% discount at a friendly dealer who had them priced at $205.76)
 
LID LEFT UNPAINTED 5PS-W9340-0L-00 - Available
LID RIGHT UNPAINTED 5PS-W9340-0R-00 - Available
 
Got mine in today! Just a matter of drilling out the existing pop-rivets and installing the new lid!
SWEET!!!!
 
new_lid.JPG
Finished!
IMG_0576.JPGIMG_0578.JPG
 
 
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw.
Deleted pics of other owners bikes.
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw.
Installing the new lids is not rocket science...open the bag and take note of the small black plates at each hinge on the inside of the lid. They are tough to see as they are between the lid cover and the inner liner of the lid. You do not want to lose or dislodge those. They are held in place by sticky tape but they can come loose. Don't ask how I know...I just know. I would fish a piece of tape in there to keep them from moving just in case. Those plates are what the rivets engage to on the inside of the bag. The lid is sandwiched between the hinge and that plate. With the bag closed, turn it over and look at the hinge points. Those are the 4 rivets you need to drill out. Grab your drill bits and find the bit that's the size of the rivet. Bump the drill trigger and drill off the top of the rivet. You don't need to drill all the way through. Be careful and go slow...It will most likely wrap itself around the bit whens it's clear. Drill all 4 rivets off. Carefully open the bag when done. A helper is nice. I used a flat blade screw driver to hold the inner plate in position and then pushed the remaining portion of the rivet through the hole. You will need a rivet tool and rivets. I can't remember the length off the top of my head...I think they were 3/8" or 1/2" in length. They will help you find the right ones at the hardware store. Reverse the procedure to install the new lids...it really is quite easy. I give the job a 2 wrench out of 5 rating for difficulty. I only give it a 2 because some people are challenged by power tools.  
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Be nice to show how to drill the so called rivet for us mechanically challenged ones. That first pic of the bike is mine, btw.
Installing the new lids is not rocket science...open the bag and take note of the small black plates at each hinge on the inside of the lid. They are tough to see as they are between the lid cover and the inner liner of the lid. You do not want to lose or dislodge those. They are held in place by sticky tape but they can come loose. Don't ask how I know...I just know. I would fish a piece of tape in there to keep them from moving just in case. Those plates are what the rivets engage to on the inside of the bag. The lid is sandwiched between the hinge and that plate. With the bag closed, turn it over and look at the hinge points. Those are the 4 rivets you need to drill out. Grab your drill bits and find the bit that's the size of the rivet. Bump the drill trigger and drill off the top of the rivet. You don't need to drill all the way through. Be careful and go slow...It will most likely wrap itself around the bit whens it's clear. Drill all 4 rivets off. Carefully open the bag when done. A helper is nice. I used a flat blade screw driver to hold the inner plate in position and then pushed the remaining portion of the rivet through the hole. You will need a rivet tool and rivets. I can't remember the length off the top of my head...I think they were 3/8" or 1/2" in length. They will help you find the right ones at the hardware store. Reverse the procedure to install the new lids...it really is quite easy. I give the job a 2 wrench out of 5 rating for difficulty. I only give it a 2 because some people are challenged by power tools. 
  It's easier than that actually. If you're simply replacing lids, there is no need to bother with anything other than drilling out the rivet caps on the LID side of the hinge. What's left inside the lid liner doesn't come into play unless your are going to re-use the lid. There are new plates already secured to the inside of the new lids. 
First, I did all the work with the lids attached to the bike. This holds it firmly. Use an 11/64 or 5/32 bit and simply drill off the cap. This takes about 10 seconds. As you mentioned, the cap will likely wind itself around the drill bit.  Once the rivet caps are off you can unlock the lid and remove. Pay attention to how the tension cord is attached to the lid! 
 
  Purchase regular aluminum 5/32 x 1/4 grip range pop (hidden) rivets ($5). Working alone, I attached the tension cord to the lid and placed the lid within 1 inch of being closed, taping the top to hold it in place. Working from the bottom, I inserted all four rivets in place to keep things in-line and used the tool applying upward pressure to ensure the surfaces are fully mated. So easy. Looks great, works great.
 
IMG_0581.JPG
 
7402910-11.jpg
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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You know, you can avoid all the drilling and riveting by bending back the tab on the hinge and pushing out the pin. Just be careful when bending that tab. That's what I did with my lids when I got them painted. You might consider doing this instead of drilling etc. Also another tip I got from the FJR-1300 forum was to loctite (blue) the screws that hold in the locks. You'll need a star driver bit but they said there were some circumstances of those locks loosening up and falling out and guess what happens when that happens - the bag falls off.  Just thought I'd mention that as you are putting on new bags. IMO these FJR bags are the nicest option and you already have 1/2 of the mounting brackets you need AND when the bags are off the bike the brackets look the best - most inconspicuous - again IMO.  
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You know, you can avoid all the drilling and riveting by bending back the tab on the hinge and pushing out the pin. Just be careful when bending that tab. That's what I did with my lids when I got them painted. You might consider doing this instead of drilling etc. Also another tip I got from the FJR-1300 forum was to loctite (blue) the screws that hold in the locks. You'll need a star driver bit but they said there were some circumstances of those locks loosening up and falling out and guess what happens when that happens - the bag falls off.  Just thought I'd mention that as you are putting on new bags. IMO these FJR bags are the nicest option and you already have 1/2 of the mounting brackets you need AND when the bags are off the bike the brackets look the best - most inconspicuous - again IMO.  
Not true. The new lids don't come with "their" half of the hinge mounted. You have to use the existing hinge-half, so drilling and re-riveting is required.  
If you're simply removing and re-attaching the existing lid, then yes, you can bend back the tab carefully.
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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  • 2 weeks later...
Is that an after market seat that you have on your FJ? Looks good.
So, I had the same dilemma where I wanted FJR bags but none to be found in the USA. I actually found a website: https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/I found both the left and right side (unpainted) bags + the lock sets for under $900 including shipping!  They wanted over $1300 for them in the US!
My next question is a fender eliminator option with Rizoma signals added - need it to work with the rear luggage bags so the signal mounts will need to be above the license plate.  Any ideas?
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  • 3 weeks later...

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