jonnyrotton Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 Has anyone here installed ohlins 30mm cartridges themselves in the fj's forks? My question is other than the fork cap tool are any special ohlins cartridge tools really needed to install their cartridges in the fj's forks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 I installed mine with just regular tools, great instructions, super easy. Only special anything is tool to set the fluid level, but I've had that for years. You need to set the level on almost all forks when you service and replace seals. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyrotton Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 John, did you have the fork cap tool? I looked at ohlins website installation instructions and your right, they look incredibly easy. Only special tools it requires is the fork cap tool and the "pull up" tool. If you didn't have the fork cap tool, what did you use? Also with the Ohlins, how did it do with the harsh compression over sharp bumps? My only true complaint about the forks, the rebound on the shock just sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 I bought a less than $10 2 pin wrench somewhere, maybe Harbor Freight to use as a fork cap tool. But you do need the correct pin diameters. Works great as long as somebody did not over tighten the fork caps. For the pull up tool, I took a nut with proper threads, pounded then nut into a copper pipe, crimped the edges around the nut. If you need more specifics, I may have time this week end. I did not like the factory Ohlins 535 dampening, which was then set right by Norwest Suspension. Then I sent the compression fork to Norwest for adjustment to match the 1.0 spring rate to match my 270 lbs weight. The cartridges are easy to install for anyone with average mechanical skills, if you can get directions. Best I can remember is that you use a open end wrench to loosen a bolt to remove fork cap from the damper rod. But you have to get the pieces aligned correctly, and need a fairly skinny open end wrench. There is one allen socket bolt at the bottom of the forks you also need to get access to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyrotton Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Thanks for the info on the pin wrench. As far as the shock, I'm just going with the 335 ohlins. Hope the cartridges which I believe are being sent with .9 springs(I weigh 175 without gear) will significantly reduce the sharpness of uneven pavement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Only special tools it requires is the fork cap tool and the "pull up" tool. harbor freight grinder wheel tool. Blue handle, has 2 pins on an adjustable 'Y' arm. A 10-12" length of AL rod tapped with I think it's M10x1.0 is a perfectly good "pull up" tool. After you dump the old carts and oil, chase the threads on the OE cartridge bolt so they are shiny and clean. Then drop the Ohlins in, center it, use some PVC or a spring to help put some pressure on the flat cartridge face while you put the bolt and a new crush washer back in to hold the assembly. No need to get carried away on torque - 15-17 will do it. Oh, I forget if the upper cartridge portion that threads into the thin-wall AL tube is locked down or not. I think it ships almost loose. I believe it's a 40mm hook wrench to get purchase on the tanged disk. Or a firm gloved grip on tube and disk (or wrench on the flats) and twist. IMO the 'Comp' leg could use some help in the valving but the quick and dirty solution is to run a 8-10cSt@40 oil and it'll do the job till such time as you really want to get into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyrotton Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Pattonme, any advice on what level to fill the fluid up to using ohlins fork oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 I would do at least 150mm. That's what I use on OE fork rebuilds and they don't have a big spring guide taking up a bunch of air. I can't remember what Ohlins put on the included sheet but I think I have a hazy recollection of 130. Feel free to experiment. The included/recommended oil was a 19@cSt which you can use on the Reb leg just fine. I do not recommend on the Comp though. Go buy a quart of the thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyrotton Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 Pattonme, my plan, while taking the forks apart, was to loosen the Allen bolt on the cartridge while the fork cap is still on so the spring is applying pressure on the cartridge so it doesn't want to spin. Do you see any problem with that, or is that something you would recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 I go one farther - I lean heavily on the fork (upside down) and hit it with an impact. Generally trouble-free that way. Ever so often run into one that's been locked in but good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyrotton Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 Pattonme,I received my ohlins today, already installed the rear shock and have my left fork completely pulled apart. I just wanted to ask you about the Allen bolt on the bottom holding the cartridge torque. I read earlier where you mentioned 15-17 ftlbs. Are you certain that is correct? Also the threads do not look like Loctite was applied. Do you recommend using blue loctite and torquing to 15-17 foot pounds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 I do not recommend lock-tite and good, firm hand tight is plenty IMO. You can torque as heavy as Ohlins/OE manual says to if you want but the bolt is under VERY light stress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyrotton Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Pattonme, the compression and rebound damping on the forks have 20 clicks. What would is your recommendation for the each for a starting point? I set both to 10 turns out from full in. I only rode in my complex a couple times over some small irregularities and it seems a bit harsh. I weigh 175 lbs without gear and was told to get .9 springs. There was no recommendation for a starting point for the fork rebound and compression, however Ohlins did give a 14 clicks on rebound starting recommendation for the shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 are you running a ~10cSt@40 oil in the 'C' leg? I would turn the 'C' all the way out. Rebound give it the 'shove' test and only have as much Reb as is necessary to keep it from bouncing. Then go out and do a repeatable circuit. A very common mistake is too much rebound. So if you're not sure, take at least 3-4 clicks out at a time and re-ride the circuit. I tune for stability by find a convenient on/off ramp. You want just enough rebound in upright/lean/upright transition that it'll hold the corner and gives you confidence in where that front tire is going. Rear shock can also play havoc if it's misbehaved, so keep that in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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