FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer/FZ-09 Spark Plug Removal/Gapping

[nsmiller]

I am performing the 4,000 mile/7,000 km/6 month FJ-09 Service. I'm filming the entire procedure, but a few services are getting their own video. One of those services is removal and gapping of the spark plugs. Here is the link to the spark plug removal DIY video. The general 4,000 mile service video is still in production, but ought to arrive in few days/weeks. Other services which will get their own video, but have not been completed yet include: Engine Oil Change, Chain Drive Lubrication and Adjustment, and Steering Head Bearing Torquing Procedure.
 
If you found this video helpful, leave a comment here or on YouTube. It's nice to know that putting the effort into making these videos is helpful for someone out there.
 
 
[video src=https://youtu.be/K183VA2pniM]
 

[empire00]

I Love having a video reference even if it is something I have the manual for and have done in the past. Video looks good!!

[eeetea]

Thanks for sharing. Always useful for armchair mechanics.

[Brick]

Yea, Thanks for showing us the way IN... Good job!
 

[kroc]

Thanks for the great video. I have watched it a few times and also have the factory manual. The process is a bit more involved than changing the spark plugs on my old 1994 KLR650 or an old 1982 KZ650 I fixed up. I was having some trouble removing the ignition coils and decided to recheck the manual and review your video. Thanks for the advice to be patient and twist and pull the coils by hand. I had also read on another post that accessing the spark plugs was sometimes easier on sport bikes when the radiator was removed. Fortunately, I was also changing the old coolant out for some new coolant and the rad was empty. Removal of the radiator was actually not that bad and greatly improved my ability to maneuver my hands into a position where I could twist the coils and had a good grip on them. With a bit of patience and persistence I was able to get them off. I was able to get the spark plugs loosened and then used a small magnetic pick up tool to pull them out of the engine. Next time I might try just removing the radiator and seeing if I can get at the plugs without taken the gas tank and air filter box off.
 
Any advice in terms of getting the next spark plugs placed? I will review the video.
 
I spent a couple hours after supper working on this and then decided to take a break and gap and install the plugs tomorrow night along with coils and then reassemble the bike while adding some new coolant.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[nsmiller]

Thanks for the great video. I have watched it a few times and also have the factory manual. The process is a bit more involved than changing the spark plugs on my old 1994 KLR650 or an old 1982 KZ650 I fixed up. I was having some trouble removing the ignition coils and decided to recheck the manual and review your video. Thanks for the advice to be patient and twist and pull the coils by hand. I had also read on another post that accessing the spark plugs was sometimes easier on sport bikes when the radiator was removed. Fortunately, I was also changing the old coolant out for some new coolant and the rad was empty. Removal of the radiator was actually not that bad and greatly improved my ability to maneuver my hands into a position where I could twist the coils and had a good grip on them. With a bit of patience and persistence I was able to get them off. I was able to get the spark plugs loosened and then used a small magnetic pick up tool to pull them out of the engine. Next time I might try just removing the radiator and seeing if I can get at the plugs without taken the gas tank and air filter box off.  
Any advice in terms of getting the next spark plugs placed? I will review the video.
 
I spent a couple hours after supper working on this and then decided to take a break and gap and install the plugs tomorrow night along with coils and then reassemble the bike while adding some new coolant.

Make sure to lube up the spark plug boots with dielectric grease, and then the next time you do this the boots will come off significantly easier regardless of which method you use to get at them.  
Regarding installation of the new plugs, most spark plug sockets have a piece of rubber in them to help hold the plug in place when you're removing/replacing it. In my case, my spark plug socket is old and the rubber has disintegrated, but I was still able to very gently drop the plug down into the hole and then use the spark plug socket to get the threads engaged by hand. Copper anti-seize on the plug threads is also a good idea. Don't wrench on the plug until you are sure your threads are properly engaged with the cylinder head.