bmoto Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Another forkin' question.... Referring to the fork cap bolt threads up against the locknut on the damper rod assembly. The manual specs 12mm from top of damper rod assembly, but when I removed mine I had less than 10mm on each fork leg. Didn't really have any issues, but had 14 clicks of adjustment. Installed it with 12mm spacing - got 12 clicks - but that felt wrong. Took it back to 10mm and got 16 clicks... manual says i should have 12 clicks... How critical is that adjustment? Where are the extra clicks coming from? Wanna get it right before I put the forks back on the bike... thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Another forkin' question.... Referring to the fork cap bolt threads up against the locknut on the damper rod assembly. The manual specs 12mm from top of damper rod assembly, but when I removed mine I had less than 10mm on each fork leg. Didn't really have any issues, but had 14 clicks of adjustment. Installed it with 12mm spacing - got 12 clicks - but that felt wrong. Took it back to 10mm and got 16 clicks... manual says i should have 12 clicks... How critical is that adjustment? Where are the extra clicks coming from? Wanna get it right before I put the forks back on the bike... thanks in advance! @pattonme '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 the yamaha manual's method is the dumbest I've ever seen. The number of clicks doesn't matter per se. The point is to make sure you are able to get the needle to fully seat and then have enough so that you can find the setting that works. Generally speaking for rebound you'll probably find that spot to be 4-10 clicks out from closed - depends on spring rate, oil viscosity and what shim stack config you're running. But to answer the question of the hour. Turn the nut on the cartridge rod all the way down. Before installing cap, turn adjuster all the way counter-clockwise. Then turn in your preferred number of clicks. 12 should be minimum, and 16 is plenty. Spin cap onto rod till it stops. chase nut upward and tighten against the cap. Now if you try to further close the adjuster it shouldn't move more than 1/2 click. Thread cap into fork leg. Back adjuster off 8 clicks (2 turns) and do the shove test and riding tests and adjust from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmoto Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 Pattonme... Sorry for the delayed reply... That is a badass response. Thank you! Totally makes sense to screw the top cap down first, and then lock the nut onto it. Totally get it. Thanks much for imparting your wisdom on my questions, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it. Those replies take time, and are really enlightening - I honestly couldn't find the answer anywhere else. Thanks again, b. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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