skipperT Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 This is the only thing to worry about. As mentioned, the ring is supposed to be installed with the split area facing DOWN. Otherwise the tensioner can go either direction as long as it mates with the cylinder mounting surface and gasket correctly. Those 2 screws have a TON of patch lock on them from the factory, and get marred up very easily when removed. Yamaha doesn’t give you new screws in the kit. (!) May want to also check and see if the RH rear valve cover has a funny looking washer under the bolt head. -Skip Yea, this is my fear as well as technically the SB says it should be faced down. I'm assuming it's based on the dot location. Does the "cap" of the CCT rotate freely so the dot could be top and bottom but the split area still facing downward? I see white dots all over google images in either direction (because orientation doens't matter) but no red dots. Nothing like a last minute worry right? No. It’s not based on the dot location at all. It’s based on whoever installed the tensioner rotating the split area downward. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 maybe the install directions should call for applying localized heat to the casting near the bolt holes to soften the locking compound? I always chase threads with a re-tap die on bolt that had compound on them. Assuming the hole isn't open to the engine galley, i would do the same (tap) to the block. Good call But you can barely get a cut-off 5mm Allen wrench in there to take the bolt off, never mind a tap to repair the threads. That would involve swinging the motor down away from the frame. Heat is the ticket, for sure. -S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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