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Rostra cruise control installation.


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Hello. I am new in the forum. I was reading with much interest the post from @Builderbob about a Rostra cruise control installation on a FJ 2015.
I already installed successfully 2 Rostra cc, the first one this spring on my own FJR 2005 and the second 2 weeks ago on my friend’s FJR 2012.
As I am just about to install another one on a FJ 09 2016, I would like to know the final result of @Builderbob installation.
I think I have missed the final result AFTER the installation of a clamp to the frame as a cable stopper. Did that cure the ‘’heavy’’ surge problem you encountered going downhill because of excessive cable slack? How was the general behavior of the cc at the end?
Thanks to @Builderbob or to anybody that will answer to me.
PS : I just hope I will be able to find out where to look for the answer on the forum...
 
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
Hello Builderbob,
I completed the Rostra installation on my friend’s 2016 FJ 09.
It does pass the diagnostic test successfully but it does’nt keep the selected speed, going up and down quite sharply 2-4 km/h from the set speed.
The DIP switch setting is the same you suggest. So far I have cut and grounded the dark blue wire with no improvement. 
Can you help me on this one?
Thank you
 
The wire I am referring to is the dark blue wire from Rostra control box that senses the engine speed (tach sensor or orange wire at the ecu box)
When you say ´no slack at all’, it confuses me because Rostra instruction book says : All settings are based on 1/8 of an inch slack on the cable (or chain). I have that 1/8 on my FJR 2005 and it works like a charm.
 
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Hello Builderbob, I completed the Rostra installation on my friend’s 2016 FJ 09.
It does pass the diagnostic test successfully but it does’nt keep the selected speed, going up and down quite sharply 2-4 km/h from the set speed.
The DIP switch setting is the same you suggest. So far I have cut and grounded the dark blue wire with no improvement. 
Can you help me on this one?
Thank you
Mine still has a little difficulty when the hills are sharp and closely spaced.  Other than that, it’s quite acceptable.  I’m not sure which wire you are referring to, but I suspect your problem is with the actuator cable.  Make sure that there is no slack and that the ball chain is able to pass through whatever guide you have made without binding.
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Hello Bob. I finally solved the problem on my Rostra cc installation. I managed to make a bracket that fits on the center of the throttle pulley and multiply the leverage of the the pull by about 3. As nothing is perfect though, I realised that my bracket will prevent the throttle to go to wide open position... I think that could be improved but I wanted to give it a try before taking everything apart again, and it works... A very short delay when engaging, but maintening the speed very smoothly. A little slowe to react when going uphill or downhill, but I am very confident this can be settled by playing with the DIP no 1-2 settings or/and no 7-8-9. I anybody interested, just tell me how to publish photos of my bracket and explain my installation in detail.
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I anybody interested, just tell me how to publish photos of my bracket and explain my installation in detail.
Call me interested. 
Email me the pictures and I'll post them up for you.  I'll PM you my email address.
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I'm posting up these pictures for the OP (Pierre) of the critical connection of the Rostra throttle cable to TPS connection. I think it's a pretty good solution. Any way you do it, it takes some fabricating to get the thing hooked up right because of the way the throttle pulley is situated. Maybe Pierre will add some comments about his installation in a later post.
 
This first picture is of the first version a bracket that he fabbed up to connect to the TPS.
 
Bracket%20V1.JPG
 
This picture shows the Rostra cable to TPS bracket connection
 
Cable%20toTPS.JPG
 
Another view of that connection.
 
Cable%20to%20TPS%202.JPG
 
This pic shows the Rostra cable connected to his fabbed bracket.
 
Connection.JPG
 
And... not satisfied with the first version of his bracket, Pierre is coming up with a new version 2.0.
 
Bracket%20V2.JPG
 
Pierre, please add your comments.
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Thank you very much Bob for publishing my pictures. I can say that this bracket makes the Rostra cc work very well, very smoothly. What’s it does, it makes a much longer lever for the actuator to pull the throttle pulley. It divides almost by 3 the movement of the cable to the throttle, where the Rostra is at the limit of its capability as it can’t handle the high power/ weight ratio of this bike vs the geometry of the throttle pulley. BUT,( there is often a BUT...) as I was completing the installation, I realized that with the actual shape of my bracket, it is limiting the travel of the throttle pulley, which cannot reach the full open position. The bracket touches the bike’s frame before the throttle pulley reaches its stop. I don’t know what is the top speed of this bike, but I reached about 110 mph with the bracket limiting the travel.
I will try to post some more picture to show you the dimension details of the ‘’improved’’ version of my bracket.
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  • 4 weeks later...
I'm interested in mounting a Rostra CC and have a comment on your bracket. BTW, 20 year auto mechanic experience and 40 years working on bikes.
Most automotive cruise controls use a CC throttle bracket designed to open the throttle but is hinged to the throttle cable drum so the throttle can be applied through the main cable independently of the cruise control. It's hard to explain, but looking at your last version it seems to me if you attached it to the cable drum using only the lowest hole and didn't tighten it, but let it pivot, it would do the same thing and allow you to go to full throttle again. You might need to add a "pin" to the drum higher than the pivot point so the lever has something to pull on.
This is a little hard to explain - does it make sense?
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