skipperT

You can check codes in its current state, but realize that anything not connected currently OR not connected when the key was last turned on could set a code, especially if the engine is cranked over. Some sensors require engine revolution before the ECM checks to see if they are connected - others will trip a MIL when key is turned on. you’ll probably see a code 30,’which is for the bike going over, and/or one for engine stall (19 maybe?). They could have been what tripped your MIL originally This really isn’t a good time to troubleshoot your running issue via a code reader. It IS important to CLEAR the codes when everything is back together and before the bike is started. Then if something sets you’ll have a clear path toward troubleshooting the issue. (Meaning, starting from a base line with no codes stored). Or do it just after getting it running if you forget Don’t ever give it gas when starting. Hands off the throttle. Hold the start button in for a longer crank time until it catches. The only exception to this rule is if it’s flooded. Make sure you replace the spark plugs and the battery voltage is 12.7 or greater during this repair session. Your battery could be on the edge as well, if not taken care of - just replace it and buy a Yuasa not some eBay/amazon junk. as Betoney mentioned - replace the clutch cable and pivot. Get it back together with the valves in spec and then see how it goes. You’ve got too many things going on currently and you need to get back to baseline -Skip

Yep, typical. It’s normal for the exhaust valves to get tight, sometimes VERY tight. If you don’t have confidence in adjusting them, call your local shop/person and see if they would be willing to work on it to finish the job. I’d recommend putting the valve cover back on and spark plugs installed loosely to keep out moisture, debris etc. Most shops probably get 2-4 hours for a valve adjustment. I’m not including fluids or anything else in that estimate. -Skip

Motion pro makes an inexpensive clutch holder as well that will work, however mind that it fits well into the “slots” of the pressure plate before loosening. and ALWAYS LOOSEN the nut BY HAND. Don’t use an impact! (This especially vital if you’ve converted to a slipper setup!) I can’t seem to post a link this morning on my mobile, @fr8dogbut if you google Motion Pro clutch holding tool, there are 2 versions. I’ve used the cheaper $40 version for years. I don’t know if that newer 140$ one is wide enough? HTH, Skip

I personally think that: -the “gronk” is one type of noise/feeling from the drivetrain, and -the clutch noise heard when engine is idling and clutch lever is pulled/released … are 2 entirely different things, IMH(P)O. I will confirm this after doing my own repair, which is out waiting for me to get to it. But regarding your question @2and3cylinders, some noise is typical when clutch is used at idle and not in gear, AND this sound is even different for those of us (you and me, I believe) who have converted to a slipper clutch. -S

All good, 2and3. I don’t take offense at much. well, keyboard warriors. I take offense at those idiots. -S

All good guys, all good. Glad your bike started after charging 2and3, and good advice too there Daz. the crickets on here from anyone running WP is exactly what I expected. Might ping the Facebook groups too. -Skip

Hi @Backbone , thanks for chiming back in and for the update. I wouldn’t sweat the marks pictured on the plate - probably normal. unless you can feel those circle patterns from the rubbers (oh god where is this going lol) indicated in your picture with a fingernail? Or are they more “polished” in nature? Oil pump pickup and filter will take care of cleaning out any debris no worries there. -S

Thanks, I did see that @dazzler24 but the shock option isn’t recommended by the website. But it is recommended according to an internal document from a couple years ago. front = Apex pro 6500 cartridges rear = Apex pro 6746 shock -S

@Backbone , did this diminish the noise you heard (engine idling, clutch lever pulled in vs out)? Nice work! Some noise from the clutch is normal of course but certain noises are not. All depends on what each of us hear/describe. Yamaha created and installed a sound dampener on later Tracer 900 models which you can purchase and fit to any earlier model. I installed one on my 2015. Coincidentally I’ve got mine removed from the bike right now, just waiting for a free moment to drill and repair. -Skip

I recently became aware that WP offers product that fits our bikes and had never heard of anyone using it, hence my question. Over the years since the FJ/FZ came out is seems most of us here tend to go with Ohlins, KTech, Penske, Racetech, Andreanni, Nitron etc. Because these are available from suppliers and generally written-up and recommended here probably. Having an inner debate on whether to try them out as I may be able to get a good price. Curious that the shock doesn’t appear when you select our bikes from the drop-downs on the WP website…. Huh. -Skip

Yep, along with GasGas and Husqvarna. Husq typically gets the more premium lines of the WP product depending on the price point of the bike. -Skip

Those are the ones. Cheers for the posting the link here. -Skip

glad to hear that, David. I’d recommend that anyone should be willing to adjust suspension settings - just write down where they are, so you have a reference point to return to if you make changes you don’t like. -Skip

True Piotrek, that is a good idea. I figured it might draw everyone in to read and comment on it? But I guess people might get turned off by “Poll” in the title lol. Oh well too late now. Cheers skip

The ECM switches internally to signal the LED control unit to fire the high beam. Usually that driver circuit blows in the ECM requiring it to be replaced. That is how FJ/MTT/XSR LEDs work. I would assume (always dangerous) the new 9 GT and + are similar, but I’ll have a look at the wiring diagram -Skip