whisperquiet

Run your bike VIN through this online purchaser and get a rough idea of the value.  I’ve never used them;  but, who knows?  Your bike looks great and is nicely accessorized.  I would think it to be worth $8000-9000 to an individual.

https://www.rumbleon.com/how-to/sell-your-motorcycle?campaignid=10749178968&adgroupid=130072312035&matchtype=b&network=g&device=c&creative=558412771107&keyword=motorcycle value calculator&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=general-motorcycle-search&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxazvhvDG9wIVvhXUAR3wtgWnEAAYASAAEgJqcfD_BwE

I sold a Mazda CX 5 to Carvana last November for way more than it was worth…..I know their business model is in trouble recently.  It was an online deal that went super smooth.

26 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Now if we could just get those darn tree's to stop dropping their wet leaves on the road in the fall.

26 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Now if we could just get those darn tree's to stop dropping their wet leaves on the road in the fall.

And, don’t get me started on the slick, painted road markings when riding in the rain.

I live in a semi rural area and grass thrown on the road is common.  It is illegal in Illinois, but the biggest violators are the road district employees who mow the highway right of ways.  It would be a waste of time to try and change that behavior.  What really ticks me off is when the person mowing grass doesn’t shut the mower deck off when I pass and debris is thrown in my direction.  I hate to point fingers, but it is usually a woman cutting grass with a zero turn👎  My eyes don’t lie.

I’ll take a hard pass on trying out cornering ABS just to see if it works.  Trail braking is quite a bit more subtle in my mind and I use it when riding.  My first motorcycle with ABS was a 2003 Honda ST1300……I just could not force myself to practice stops with such intensity to activate ABS on a big, heavy bike.  I have improved my skills with ABS and activate it all the time on my current three Yamahas at low speed mainly to keep the ABS module working.  I am an old dog who learns new tricks SLOWLY.

Like this.

3 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

I purchased a couple of blanks online and had my local ACE hardware store copy my original for $2 each. They work perfectly. I would still like to determine my key code.

The key blank for all three of my USA Yamahas is either an ILCO X248 or YM63.  I had spares cut for all which work great.

I don’t have the little key code tab for my OEM keys either.

I went for a 275 mile ride with about 8 other buddies and punched a sizable hole in my rear Shinko 009.  I plugged it and aired it up with my small compressor.  We rode about 50 miles and had to re-plug the same hole with two of the motorcycle specific Nealey tire repair strings.  My compressor quit working this go around and had to air it up with one of the other rider’s compressor.  I am going to dismount the tire and take a look inside and possibly plug/patch from the inside……..the tire has 1500 miles on it👎.   I have a new tire in the garage…..it might just be replaced and I’ll keep the plugged tire as a spare.

It was a great ride though!

I would say this as I aged.   I didn’t give much thought to comfort until my late 30’s and around age 40 would not purchase or ride a street motorcycle without a windshield, saddle bags, tank bag, or trunk.  Heated gear was a must as I aged and I have a requirement for OEM cruise control…..I won’t purchase a new street oriented bike without cruise……ever.

I currently own a Tenere 700 with a throttle lock, windshield, heated grips/harness, and saddle bags.

My Tracer 900 GT and Super Tenere ES both have factory cruise, windshields, and saddle bags/racks for bags, etc.   I am in my mid 60’s and favor both function and form at this point in my life👍  

What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?
 

Rode 115 miles and turned over 20,000 miles on the GT.  I purchased it used in October 2020 with 4400 miles.  It runs perfect, but I do plan to check the valve clearances in the near future.

Dent your tank with a hammer…..no one will notice the trim is scratched😎

Otherwise, I would use a little heat from a butane torch.

I run a Givi top box only unless on a trip and remove the saddlebags for a little better fuel mileage riding locally.

I have huge, blocky 45 liter MicaTech saddlebags for my Super Tenere.  You can see a huge drop in fuel mileage with them installed when riding in a stiff frontal or cross wind.
 

I use OEM Yamaha filters while in warranty and either Yamaha/HiFloFiltro filters when out of warranty.  Luckily, my Tracer 900 GT, Super Tenere, and Tenere all use the same oil filter.

2 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Loving the shared parts between my Tracer and T7 too, that's really handy.

But to jump on this:

My 2018 MT07 stock chain was pants as well, orings falling apart in about 10000kms/6000miles.  My 2019 Tracer 900GT's chain lasted till I want to say 13k, where it was getting stretchy and stiff.  While I'm hard on chains with winter riding, they're always kept well cleaned and lubed.  Stock sprockets where fairly lackluster on both as well.

I don't think it was a bad batch so much as DID likely bid low on providing chains for Yamaha bikes, won the contract, then just shipped cheap ass chains.  Kind of the same as how stock tires are *never* as good as the same tire bought aftermarket, often with measurably less tread. 

Three modern Yamahas in and I've definitely come to the conclusion that you really want to just use the stock chains and sprockets long enough to determine what gearing changes you might want to make then pick out a good set.

I'm curious how long the T7's chain will last, personally.  I've already decided on dropping a front tooth when I do change it, as it currently tractors at 11kph and I'd like to nudge that down and it's already fun torque up.  

My OEM T7 chain and sprockets are in great shape at 16,400 miles.  I have new set of J T sprockets and a J T 525 x ring chain on the shelf👍

The OEM chain/sprockets on my ‘19 Tracer GT were replaced at 15,400 miles with a new 525 Primary Drive o ring chain and a set of JT steel sprockets …… it looks and feels great with just about 5000 miles of use since the change out.  The OEM rear sprocket showed almost no wear and was kept as a spare.  The sprockets are the same part numbers for my Tenere 700👍 

FYI….my original chain did not lose any o rings but was beginning to kink and develop tight spots when it was replaced.

19 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I thought it was 114 and what is what I saw on my GPS before my flash but 115 is close enough for the girls we go out with!

I've read the T9 is overall better and more civilized but several testers have also said it's lost the bad boy edge that makes my 15 more fun.

I've got too much invested in it to get a T9 for the relatively marginal gain.

A nice S1000XR for a good price on the other hand...

Then you will have to change your screen name to “2, 3, and 4 cylinders”.

20 minutes ago, nhchris said:

Two reasons to use em:

They help prevent overtightening of the drain plug cause you can feel the washer compress as you tighten it down in the aluminum oil pan.

In an area where there is lots of thermal expansion and contraction they maintain a good seal cycle after heating cycle.

Like all things FJ, there are good reasons the engineers specified their use.

Since I’m running the low profile Mazda drain bolt I’m gonna see what the Mazda dealer charges for these little bits.

A ten pack of washers for $6.45 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254469779953?hash=item3b3f94b1f1:g:qOoAAOSwUQ5bvh2t

Any auto parts store should have 14mm crush washers in stock.

11 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Again no such thing, you can always pay for more or less for coverage beyond you're state's minimum. 100 dollar deductible or 1k deductible, ACV vs full replacement, UM/UIM coverage beyond state minimum, accessory coverage, personal belongings, rental, transportation, liability, collision and comprehensive limits, state requirements.... it's all part of the equation.  There is no standard "full coverage policy", you can hear your agents eyes roll to the back of their heads when you ask for it by name over the phone if you listen close.

I don't mean to be rude, but probably come off that way, but it is truly an meaningless term.

You win…have a good day.

1 hour ago, kilo3 said:

FYI there is no such thing, also synonymous with "full coverage" which is also not an insurance term.

What you should be comparing are the limits on the coverage.
I run full replacement on one bike and acv on the other. with 500k/250k/100k limits. for around $620/yr.

I think everyone can relate to what full coverage implies…which is the top limit of what can be purchased for all three bikes + I carry a supplemental umbrella policy.

I have maximum coverage on three motorcycles and it costs around $650.00 per year.  I am mid 60s and live in a semi rural area of Illinois.  My car insurance cost has been rising every renewal for several years.

I did the R3 clutch lifter mod soon after the purchase of my Tracer GT.  It did reduce the clutch pull and widened the engagement/friction zone of the clutch.

Old thread revived……I did the R3 clutch lifter mod soon after buying my Tracer GT and it works great for me.

It is the chunk of rubber that one inserts to block the front (driver/rider) seat latch.  I removed mine and secured it in my Tracer GT parts box for the next owner who will also not use it👍

6 hours ago, jamespz03 said:

Thanks. Do these interfere with the heated grips functionality?

I get plenty of heat through the Grip Puppies using the OEM Yamaha heated grips.