whisperquiet

3 hours ago, nigel5 said:

I do wonder why service interval are shorter in the US for the same bike we get in the UK, my service intervals are 6,000 miles and plugs at 12,000, no way would I replace plugs at 8,000 miles!

I usually split the difference and complete the maintenance at 5000 mile intervals unless I have a big ride coming up.

17 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

  I would thought, the T7 could do better than 55-75 mph for long distance slab running. I can do that all day long with my KLR650, just have to remember to have a quart of 20w-50 in the tail bag🙂

The T7 is comfortable for me at those speeds…..any higher and you tend to get blown around a little.  A 2nd Gen KLR has better wind protection and is a good travel bike.  I doubt that my T7 has been over 85 mph…….older and slower.👍

I have the ultra sophisticated Go Cruise throttle lock.

I don’t see any problem with long distance if you ride between 55-75 mph.  I have an an adjustable Moto pumps windshield bracket that helps.  I am also 6’4” with a 35” inseam and installed SW Motech Ion 15mm lower foot pegs plus I was able to buy one of the rare 41 mm taller Yamaha rally one piece seats. The two piece stock seat had me sitting on the seam which was not good.  My picture shows the Tusk side and tail racks plus I have an Ogio tail bag and small tank bag.  I installed Bikemaster heated grips and run a heated jacket when needed.  The only things I wish the T7 had was tubeless wheels and electronic cruise control.  BTW, my T7 runs flawless …… I think you will like yours.

I use my Super Tenere for big trips, my Tracer GT for all around riding and short trips, and the T7 for back road exploring.

Congratulations on your new T700….it does have a great engine.  I’ve owned mine over a year and have 11,000 miles on it.

BNG will be the big change for 2022.

54 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Except it appears with the Cycle Hill it appears you need to kneel down / bend way over to break the beads but not on the regular NoMar...

Using the Cycle Hill to break beads on the floor next to the machine is way easier than doing it without the attached breaker bar.  It does work pretty good.

I owned the original NoMar Cycle Hill changer from 2009 to its sale this spring when it was replaced with the NoMar Cycle Hill HD Plus.  I have mounted and balanced more than 250 tires since 2009 which has saved me (and friends) so much time and money that the machine pays for itself in a short period of time.  I kept my NoMar balancer, cones, Yellow Thing, and tire irons from the first machine.  Mine is permanently mounted to the garage floor as I have the room.

it sure beats dismounting and mounting tires on the concrete floor like I did for thirty years.👍

That fuel line with connectors is only $42.49 in the USA……$120.00 AUS is quite a bit more even with the exchange difference.  #48 on the parts diagram.

1 hour ago, Curt_from_Kansas said:

Well, my bike is light..me....not as skinny as I used to be!  I agree with what you say wholeheartedly.  That is what I am trying to figure out.  How much of of my discomfort arising in these conditions is naiveté and how much is warranted.

I, however, slow down to a speed I felt better at -- which ws 55 MPH at some parts.  Luckily, on these back KS roads, they are somewhat empty and other drivers are pretty mellow.

 

Curt M

I have ridden across Kansas numerous times where it was so windy that I couldn’t ride at the posted 75 mph speed limit on I 70.  

I crossed Kansas east and west three weeks ago on my Super Tenere and the side winds were ferocious in the middle of the state.  The wind was blowing so hard from the south and hot (105 degrees) on the way back that my bike was running around 220 degrees due to the radiator intake not getting any air.  We later experienced a severe storm in Hays, KS and my bike was blown over.  It was a tough ride on the S10 and would have been worse on my Tracer GT due to the reasons stated in above posts.  Other than riding loose and with the wind, there isn’t much you can do about it.

Mine is missing also….made do with some old bicycle inner tube to cover the protrusion.

56 minutes ago, craz1 said:

Hope your not using a pressure washer

Why?  If used properly, it is a great aid in cleaning a bike.

I am in the outer Chicago suburbs……Waterloo, Illinois 62298 just south of St Louis, Mo.  I am 30 miles from the great Missouri roads in the Ozarks south of St Louis.  I did live in Oswego, Il in the late 70’s for two years.

4 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

I have 12 point sockets, they just sit in my roll around. I never use them.

Hard enough using my wrenches (only when I have to) that are 12 point.

I still have some metric/SAE three points.

Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel……cut the nut off.

25 minutes ago, PhotoAl said:

So I bought a Vortex rear sprocket.  Today went to install it, first step removing nuts, first five loosened without too much trouble but the last one the socket slipped on!!!  Have tried a couple of ways of loosening the nut but nope!  All I've done is butchered the nut!!!  I'm at 11,000 miles and about a year old.  Have ordered a new set of nuts and a couple of studs but leaving in 9 days on a long trip.  Rear sprocket is not in bad shape so thinking plan A is to just tighten the 5 nuts (carefully) and worry about it when I get back.  Certainly dont see the one nut coming loose.

Certainly very frustrating - I need to buy a good set of 6 point sockets for the tough nuts.

I would cut that nut off with a Dremel tool.  I don't it would take too long and you already ordered replacement studs/nuts.,

I’ve seen caliper bolts like that many times and usually clean them up with #0000 steel wool or the wire wheel on my bench grinder.  I think some of the corrosion/deposits come from washing the bike with soapy water.  I re-install them clean and dry with proper torque setting.

2 hours ago, ShedMoto said:

Hello everyone! I was just wondering; would it be possible to, somehow, increase the ground clearance on my Tracer 900? Besides adjusting the preload, what are my options? Changing the front fork and rear shock altogether? I saw a video on YouTube where some guy in india added 2 machined cilinders to the stock forks and raised the handlebar...

I'd love to turn it into a "proper adventure / trail bike" of sorts...

Thoughts and tips please? Thank you!

Bigger front wheel???

On 8/8/2021 at 8:02 AM, fjray said:

I don't know why so many people think they need to  put on a loud pipe.  I  guess I went through that back in the  day too.  Lighter weight? Go on a diet.  More power?  Learn to use what you have now.  All just my opinion of course.  Bike shop owner told me years ago when I inquired about a  header for my  bike, " wanna go faster, get a bigger bike."

Totally agree…the world is already too loud and loud motorcycles are an annoyance to most people.  I just got back from a week in Gunnison, CO and had two days of loud, obnoxious Harleys at the motel we stayed at…..sure they were enroute to Sturgis.

I am a follower of the 1970s mantra…….Less sound= more ground.  It is more important now than ever.  Moab, UT just clamped down on loud UTVs this year.

Maybe the replacement brake switch has failed….I would start the bike, turn on cruise, and NOT use the front brake for a short ride.  See if the cruise control will work in this fashion.  My Super Tenere cruise would work until you touched/used the front brake the first time.  Both my S10 and GT have the updated front brake switch and harness which work fine.

Also, I run a lot of free play in my clutch cable and it takes but slight movement of the clutch lever to disengage the cruise.

22 minutes ago, PhotoAl said:

Looking at a new rear sprocket and like the Superlight but cannot find in a 45 tooth.  Thinking of going to 44 but keeping OEM size front sprocket.  Wondering how much of a change it will make, know it will drop the RPMs at speed a little but that really isn't an issue.  More concerned about low speed operation.  On my trips I stay in campgrounds with gravel roads and low speed limits (like 7 mph) due to lots of kids around.  Other choice is a 47.  

Only at 11,000 miles and could re-use the rear as I cannot see any wear on it but want to go new all around.

It has been a challenge getting a chain and sprockets.  Hard to find in proper size, wound up getting a 120 link non gold DID chain from my buds at Cycle Gear.  

Years ago I ran a SuperSprox steel and aluminum sprocket but wasn't awed by it.  The anodizing faded and it seemed to wear more than the OEM.

I just replaced the chain and sprockets on my ‘19 Tracer GT with 15,000 miles on the original set.  I bought a set of JT sprockets via Amazon.com and a Primary Drive 525 o’ring chain in the correct length from Rocky Mountain ATV.  

I installed the new chain master link with my chain press/stake and all is good as the driveline feels much smoother.  I did go with the stock gearing and a JT rubber damped front sprocket just like OEM.
 

I bought a used 2019 Tracer GT with new tires installed.  It shook bad at around 75-80 mph and I removed/rebalanced the front wheel/tire assembly.  All was good afterwards.

I have a NoMar static wheel balancer and make sure that every front tire is balanced to near perfection…..the rears are balanced to less than 5 grams.  

I have a Givi base plate and use either a Givi E36 or V46 trunk…..picture of the E36.

I bought this radiator guard that fit perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N37TLK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1