betoney

Much like your FJR (or any other bike ever made) screen selection is very subjective, some riders like huge screens and some prefer small or no screen at all.  What works for me might be terrible for you.            I don't mind air flow as long as its smooth wind and I prefer a small screen all year around.

IMHO, all or most modern tires are very good (I don't remember the last time I read a review about terrible tires) and within their specific category should perform relatively similar.  As tire prices skyrocket, buy what you can afford and enjoy the road.

I have tried Dunlop, Pirelli, Michelin, Bridgestone, Shinko and Continental, sport, sport-touring and adventure-type tires and don't have anything bad to say about any of them. 

I love spirited twisties as much as the next rider and certainly cant out-ride the capabilities of a sport-touring tire to justify using sport tires.  I used to use Bridgestone S22 (sport) tires because they were a good price but the T32's (sport-touring) are almost the same price, perform similarly -for me- and last longer.

The biggest issue I have with taking parts off my current bike is I don’t have the factory parts to replace them with. 
 

I can guarantee that I would not go through the hassle of removing the Mccruise, it required splicing into the wiring for the ECU, TPS and cylinder 1 ignition coil. Additionally, I bought the factory FJR switchgear and custom wiring harness, I wouldn’t have a clue what parts need to be removed or altered to sell it as a useable unit. 

Welcome to the group.  Very nice, diverse collection of bikes there.  Due to supply shortages there are not very many Tracer 9 owners on here yet.  Enjoy the new bike!

I am at work and don’t have search access while out in the field but it is made by Ermax. Google search should help you out. 👍🏻
 

Brian

No.  Put the bike on the center stand and look underneath, there are 2 bolts to remove.  The entire process should take a few minutes.

I have used both a -1 tooth in the front and +2 in the rear at different times, the final ratio is very close.

Stock 16/45 = 2.81

-1 front 15/45 =3.0

+2 rear 16/47 = 2.93

With the 15 on the front you can get away with stock length chain, with the 47 on the rear I use a 112 link chain.

The reason I eventually went with +2 on the rear instead was rumors of smaller front sprockets causing quicker chain wear due to tighter turn radius, not sure if that is true but the final ratio was close enough I figured better safe than sorry.

I really like the change of either -1 front or +2 rear, it really brings the engine to life and only raised the highway cruising rpm by a few hundred.   

One thing to note though, since the is acceleration will now be a little more aggressive, if you have any fueling/snatchy throttle, it will be more evident.  I have my ECU flashed and bike default to A-mode but my fueling isn't 100% perfect, still have an ever so slight lurch with on/off throttle, I have just learned to use smoother roll on/off while ripping through the twisties and not close the throttle 100%.

Let me know what you think after you try it out.  👍

 The Walking Dead has just gone on far too long, technically if they’re just going to follow their new lives the show could go on and on forever.   Some episodes are definitely entertaining but too many are just slow and drawn out.

I hope The Walking Dead follows VERY soon. 

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. I am always trying to look at the bike with an artist type viewpoint to try little changes to make it unique. 

Did you notice the silver “intake” screen on the tank shroud?  It’s mesh from a kitchen strainer, lol.