2and3cylinders

On 6/23/2019 at 7:43 AM, nhchris said:

Here's what we need an enterprising forum member to do....

Someone with TWO accurate scales needs to put an 09 or GT to the test.

Get the bike front and rear tires up on the scales and note the weights indicated for each.  F + R = (469???)

As an added bonus, lift the forks 10mm and see  how much (if any) the front weight increases.

(I have only 1 scale and when I stand on it it reads way high.)

cb

You wouldn't to raise the forks 10 mm when you put the bike up front and rear just have a 10 mm lower on the front scale and then raise with 10 mm board 

Front and rear balance in relatively lightweight was also the reason I got the FJ but it is more top-heavy than say my V-Twin albeit a vtr1000f which to me is much easier to roll around the shop than the FJ

I certainly believe the mto9 Tracer GT weight includes the bags and the other fresh accoutrements mentioned and I certainly believe with my givi side cases top case K-Tech shock and other doodads that it weighs in close to 500 with fluids

22 hours ago, Larz said:

Totally different animals, but when I run non-ethanol in my Harley, fuel mileage drops by 2-3 mpg, go figure 

That sounds about right two to three MPG

I still don't know how people are getting 50 unless it's Moon gas

5 hours ago, whistler said:

I'm stuck in old-school on some things, 2&3.  A pleasant carry-over from when I carried a service rifle and other interesting kit...

 I'm even older School

But started playing in the early 70s with the highest Tech

I'm just amazed and how far things have come since then

On 6/26/2019 at 11:34 AM, whistler said:

I save myself the headache and just use Trip 1 as a tank mileage meter and fill up around 200 miles or so.  So far, I'm getting 52 mpg per tank for my commuting mileage.  That gives me about 240+ total miles per tank, give or take a few.  The 40-mile buffer helps with finding a gas station without much worry.

I use Trip 2 as a chain lube meter and do that gig every 300-400 miles or so.

Now, if I could hardwire a LAAW rocket platform to the GT for the idiot cagers on the road in my area, I'd be golden . . . 

Good idea about Trip 2 but as I usually do 300-400 mile days, I keep receipts and a odo photo log.

LAAWs are ancient tech.  There are F&F* rockets the size of road flares that'll stop an APV if not a "tank".  Eazi-peezi to rig up a dozen...

I have a fastest red 15 that at 30k miles is finally getting more than 42 mpg if I restrain my right wrist and not run the barn door Givi w-spoiler.  Weird amount of time to wear-in.  I use the gauges as gauges on which to base my concern about running out.  I have a 98 VTR1000F with 110k miles and only 4 gallons to spend 33 miles at best on each.  I ride because I don't like walking, let alone pushing a bike in 90F.  Oddly, the VTR died spectacularly on 94 south of 142 recently, first time since I bought it new, within only 6 miles of the Orange Light of Death going on.  That's well less than half what it should have, even on the Ethanol laced crap they call gas here. 

It's funny "Mike" mentioned ethanol-free hi-test, which IMO may be why my FJ has improved recently, because I've only had time to ride up to East Troy and Palmyra, WI; in Walworth and Jefferson counties where "pure" 91-93 premium can be had.  Nearest to me in Skokie according to Pure-Gas.org other than Cottage Grove...

I carry 1 if not 2 camp size gas bottles when on "tour".

Didn't know the GTs had gallons remaining read-out; niffty.

But I'll still keep my well modded 15 cuz it's the biz to me.  FI, TC, ABS, more than 2 jugs, gas gauge, air and engine temp, heated grips OEM controlled, mpg, USD forks and about the same weight as my VTR.  Though I'll never sell my VTR, it just blows the FJ away with sneaky fast grunt and top speed, and sounds better doing it...  It's just my bod can't take it on tour anymore.

*Fire & Forget

is also very competitive but I agree about RMATV for tires...

Oh, to be young again.  I don't know if I could do your ride now but which I could!

My fastest 15 red is set up very similar to yours.  Whose pilot saddle is that, almost looks DIY?  Also, I presume that's a SW-Mototech skid plate 

, and if so how'd it perform (and how easy is it to change the oil?  I have a flush head drain plug...

Love my  ole  classic 2-pc 'Stitch' but never got along with their CTB.  Have their Transit 2 suit too.

bravo!

Despite the record rain this spring (second year in a row) and 60 hour work weeks, I've managed to get in about 4,500 miles this season despite the late spring.  Mostly cloudy and cool but no rain for a change...  Unfortunately, the longest ride has been only about 450 miles in a day.  Did get up to Road America for the MotoAmerica races the weekend before last.  Time for another set of RS3s though and and oil change.

Today, I took my annual Father's Day solo ride up to East Troy, WI (former home of Buell ) for my fav broasted chicken at Gus' Drive In (good frozen custard too but not as good as Adrian's in Burlington, WI).  Discovered they erected a freshly  restored "Muffler Man".  Gus' has a classic car and bike drive in on Saturdays, and live acts occasionally (see Elvis impersonator and my 98 110k mile VTR1000F).  Leduc's Frozen Custard in Wales, WI is a great spot but in Milwaukee there's Gilles, Leon's (not as good but they have good-bad Sloppy Joe's), Fred's, Kopp's & Kitt's; not too far is Ferch's and Bubba's...  Chance's in Rochester, WI is a good lunch stop but their weekend hours are goofy.  Fred's burgers in Burlington is old school but there's lots more.

Born to ride, work to ride, ride to eat frozen custard...but I've actually lost almost 35 pounds this year somehow.

A* glove quality IMO has gone way down.  The Mk1 SGS have been bullet proof...

Pyramid carbon extension, was available in ABS too

2 hours ago, tktplz said:

 

I have a pair of the glove above in black. I have 2 sets of the glove below. 1 in black and 1 in red and white. Am very happy with both.

Here is my last pair had at only $39.  http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/closeouts/last_chance_bargains/agv_sport/rivet_gloves.html

I have the rivets in black too but punched more vent holes in them and painted the metal knuckle guards black.

These are my fav short cuff gloves; I got a second pair on close out when the Mark II's came out which IMO  are  not as good...

Scorpion SGS Gloves :: MotorcycleGear.com

---

Personally I like the SGS gloves by Scorpion. The overall design reminds...

Highly likely, as other than the longer swing arm (not relevant here) and quick-shifter rod in the linkage, nothing should have changed.

i was going to suggest the MFW Vario system 

I seen the Ebay Chinese knock offs but am unsure of their quality and structural integrity with a couple of different indexing designs noted.  The MFW's on my VTR1000F have withstood my considerable girth for probably 70k miles...

How did they work with the brake pedal (mods needed)?  I'd think the shift lever could be adjusted to suit.  Only issue I see is I really like my fleabay rubber covered pegs that are significantly longer than OEM.   MFW does have 2 different styles of rubber covered pegs for their Vario system, and link plate lengths.

these were great and cheap

1.     Outlaw Racing TH-08 “Low” Black 1-1/8” Handlebars (shortened 18 mm w-ends drilled & tapped M16 x 1.5 x 30 for OEM M8 threaded bar end inserts).  Packed full & solid with BBs

That's why I dropped a tooth in front but afterward I did notice as much as 2 mpg drop.  That's the reason I went back to stock, fuel range is critical when touring often...

I tried 1 down in the front at about 15k miles and went back to stock when I replaced the chain and both sprockets at about 22k miles.

I don't find the FJ to be buzzy (Grip Puppies, bar packed ed with BBs and rubber covered pegs may explain some of that) but I like the snappy and revy nature of the CP3 engine (albeit after having the ECU flashed) and often ride in A mode.  In fact, I sometimes catch myself cruising on the freeway in 4th gear and only notice because of the higher gas mileage read-out.  I have my 15 set up as a sport-tourer (Shad SH46 top case and SH36 side cases, and a Givi touring screen with adjustable spoiler) but like a good romp Sunday in Cheeseheadland as much as I do on my VTR1000F; which I also moded to the touring side because of my aging bod...

Does this issue only apply to the new GT?  As I've had Givi case guards on my 15 FJ-09 and don't recall this problem but now I need to look 😞

I also flip-flopped the bolt for the lower left bar...

On 9/24/2018 at 10:15 AM, koth442 said:

Axle is 27mm or 1-1/16", not 22mm.
 
Need to add 14mm allen to pull the front axle. 

I carry both a 14 mm combo open / box end wrench and 14 mm socket but a 14 mm hex key (Allen) is not necessary (though I  have one it provides poor leverage unless a spark plug socket or pipe is slipped over it for comfort) to remove the front axle.

Instead or in addition to I include in my on-bike tool kit a 3/8" - 16 TPI x 1-1/8" Coupling Nut (whose outer dimension/shape is a snug 14 mm hexagon), which nicely fits in the front axle to loosen it with a box wrench or socket; and is much more compact and easier to use  than a 14 mm hex key.  Available at your local Home Depot or equivalent...

On 3/27/2019 at 7:26 PM, Nuckingfuts said:

Not sure I'd trust $20 chinese pot metal pegs to hold me up in a high speed turn. Just not worth the risk there.

OEM is likely made in the same factory...

Has anybody come up with a way of defeating only the rear ABS yet inquiring minds want to know

12 hours ago, racer said:

Most of these pumps are all the same, just different packaging around the pump.  Just buy a cheap one and remove the case the pump is enclosed in.  I think I paid nine bucks for mine at Tractor Supply.

I did that many years ago and then made a little enclosure for it but it is definitely not the same as the dynaplug pump which is smaller has the screw on hose the LED light and the airport to check pressure well it's still connected it also doesn't run is hot or vibrate and is relatively quiet so not all pumps are created equal just my opinion

I bought this a couple of years ago for about 45 bucks, they still sell it at cycle gear but without all the attachments very light and compact relatively smooth and quiet I'm actually pretty impressed with it and it's relatively light weight, and has an LED light and a port to check air pressure while you're filling it. the gauge that comes with it isn't that accurate though but I use a slime digital that was pretty cheap

They can be had as covered in a couple of other threads on eBay for less than $10 for example anything that fits in FZ6 we'll fit at least up through the 17 FJ 09 I believe

Do a search them and side stand foot expanders ra dime a dozen

10 hours ago, betoney said:

Is there any appreciable difference from going 525 to 520 pitch chain and sprockets? 

I switched to a 15T sprocket soon after buying the bike and liked it a lot, a whole lot.  When it came time for new chain and sprockets I instead went with a 47T rear sprocket and +2 link chain. - almost the same final drive ratio.  The quicker acceleration is worth the slightly higher cruising rpm.  In the tighter twisties it feels like the gearing is more properly spaced and can still pull long enough in each gear without constant shifting to keep the motor in the sweet-spot.

20% weight reduction with slightly faster spin up.

With the relatively high redline, rev happy  and grunty CP3 engine, I felt a 15T front was over-kill, increased vibes and reduced already disappointing gas mileage.

I also cruise at higher speeds to get to the abysmal country roads we call twisties, so lower revs reduce rpm = less buzz and more mpg.

Even though I installed a 2016 XSR900 slip-assist clutch, dropping down 2 gears and dumping the clutch if needed is less stressful on the drivetrain with a 16T  

Am I the only one who went with a 520 DID ZVMX with Superlite F&R sprockets?!

Tried a 15T front but went back to OEM F&R...

On 3/4/2019 at 9:06 PM, piotrek said:

I opted to modify a long 14mm ball-end hex key. Looked where along the key there was interference with the bar and ground the key to reduce the circumference in just that area. The ball-end needed trimming (flattening) a bit for a good fit inside the shallow hex cavity in the cover. Worked great. Working the crank bolt was no issue using a 19mm socket on a long 3/8" extension.

I have a long 14 mm ball end too that I tried but it interfered and didn't think of grinding its circumference let alone flattening the end of the ball I'll have to try that thanks for the suggestion