2and3cylinders

3 hours ago, betoney said:

The next few days are forecast for 70F.  I have my grandkids today and tomorrow so they take priority but I definitely plan on getting out for a bit on both bikes.

Jeesh, when you said grandkids, I was surprised, taken aback, because I don't (yet) have any myself, and I'm a dozen years your senior.

But you're certainly old enough, and it was not you're decision either (or was it?). 😏

Me and SWMBO do have grandcats though, and they're a stitch too!

2 hours ago, betoney said:

With all of the time and effort you are pouring into 'spring maintenance', by the time you are finally able to ride again the bike should ride like brand new.  👍🏻

Brian, it's therapeutic and being anal retentive I can only do it one way as only right is right. Plus As long as i'm in there I keep finding things

Therapeutic, because I cannot ride. So this is an interim stop gap.I may try to go out once I get it together if weather cooperates perfectly otherwise you can p m me and I'll update you on the medical front.

 Right now I'm watching Q2 of the 21 Fatherland moto GP taking a break

 Despite using silicone, it's always difficult to get the stick coils out.But I'd come up with a method where I shoot under the gasket some water based lube and use a wood pry bar n pop it up after turning them around and tapping them gently with a hammer and piece of wood; kind of like when you break free a bolt. I still sweat that I'll break em

As the rad the tipped down and valve cover bolts are out I'm ready to check the valves but I think I'll bleed the brakes first and call it quits for the day

I'll also pull the calipers and clean them with the rotors and pads. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol. 

Not sure if  I'll vacuum drain, flush and vacuum Fill the coolant or I'll put that off for later this spring As it only really entails removing the right cover

I hope you're getting out and putting some rubber down

Oh and I cleaned the TB within an inch of their lives. Hopefully they'll run like new but being a carb guy who understands deeply their idiosyncrasies, the FJ is my first FI, ABS, TC & Multi-Mode scoot, so TB  are still a little bit of a mystery to me...

Now waiting for the longer clutch cable from Barnett...

And done!

It does seem a little smoother with the new cables and with the Spring mod I will, like others have said, have to adjust to it, that is when I get back in the saddle...😁

I'm going back in

New throttle cables at the ready

Thanks.I have a set in my attic stock I'm breaking down and install them now

At part shark they're under thirty bucks shipped if you're a vet

Being OCD I think I'm going to replace the cables LOL

Well, it's done I probably should have replaced the frigging cable.I had a brand new one but I got lazy

Anyway, throttle pull is now reduced to probably sixty percent of what it was.

I drilled and tapped two holes

The lower one had enough tension but it wasn't snapping as loud as I wanted it to be, so so I raised the screw to the upper hole that provided more tension on the spring.

I have a flat washer and lock washer under the nut for the screw plus I added thread to thread sealant; which I also put on the pulley nut .

Nothing like a belt and  suspenders

Now I'm kind of kicking myself for not installing the brand new cables I had.

But probably won't because pulling apart the throttle pod is a PI.T.A with the heated grips.

Until it's running.I won't know for sure but I think I'll be happy enough.

I just finished the Spring tension mod, and it's a lot easier know.

Go to 

I had a brand new cable I could have put in and I didn't.

I don't know why I just didn't want to feed new ones through.😆

It is easy enough to do next time, which is now! 

I guess I'm old school I remember back in the day you needed to lube them and everybody used dry slide but cable life works okay however you still need to lube the throttle tube on The handlebar which I have my own concoction of silicone, Molly Grease and slickoleum

The latter was designed specifically for Ride by wire hand grips to simulate the amount of friction you get from a cable operated throttle

The clutch cable is not really an issue to lube

On my 100,000 Plus VTR I've been lubing the throttle cables the clutch is hydraulic

The throttle cables do feel smooth now!

I appreciate the input but anyone else have suggestions?

I may pick up that hypodermic injector though similar to the dry slide needle

This is really a rant because at least I believe for the Gen 1 & 2 throttle cables, the 2 basic types of pressure lubing tools don't work. The Motion Pro 3 piece luber and the Cable Life luber won't attach where they are designed to attach at the throttle tube end of the cables because of the silly plastic end fittings. No way they can fit at their lower TB ends.

Also the rubber sleeve at the throttle tube housing that pairs both halves together makes it extremely difficult to pull out of the way so lube can get dribbled into each Cable and the cable worked back and forth to work the lube down.

The old method of rubber banding a plastic bag at the top and filling it with lube is also hampered by the plastic fittings at the top of each cable.

Having the OEM heated grips also adds more frustration and time to maintenance.

Has anyone come up with a fast, easy and inexpensive means and method to lube the throttle cables?!!!

Does my ass look that big?

As a side note to my installation of the handlebar riser inserts that brought me up 1" and back 3/4 on on top of, or should I say underneath my Renthal street naked, which I haven't ridden yet, during my ongoing maintenance, I happened to look at how the bars looked now that I have the tank and airbox off. I set my phone kinda on where the pillion would be and looking forward. It seems the bars are Way Way up there! Almost like they should be on a Harley, but I think that's an optical illusion without it being dressed. 

So you went with the flaming hot red huh!

EK 525 ZVX3 - Metallic RED Heavy Duty X'ring (1300cc Rated)???

I've posted shots of my fastest route fifteen with my squidly red chain too but it was a five twenty And I reused the sprocket center Superlite sprockets

I've run two other 520.

Which gave me about 18 or so each, which is nothing to sneeze at with the CP 3.

Which I think sets up a little driveline vibration even with the damped front cog

Now I don't keep my chain meticulously clean. But why otherwise run an o-ring x ring z ring chain?

Back in the day I think they got chains off a conveyor belt drive.They were heavy and still didn't last that long.

 I think a lower numerically ratio for lower revs is a false efficiency because the CP 3 needs to rev to be in the Most efficient range.

 This has been discussed before here on

 Strangely I need a new chain.The one notch down EK in 520, Maybe because of the reused sprockets, which I thought were perfectly acceptable, didn't last more than eight thousand miles but I'd have to verify that.

I presume you kept track to your gas mileage so with your riding style.Report back if you are achieving higher mileage and you like the experience better.

3 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

I'm humpin to get my major maintenance done this month in bites.  May defer replacing the chain just to get it on the road ASAP.

Static throttle resistance check before & after may not happen.  Can drill a small hole in my Cramp Buster to ulilize as a lever to hook my fish scale to for a objective "scientific" measurement. 

But a subjective comparison may have to do.

However, after weeks of amazingly good weather, it seems we've gone back to winter for a while of course.  We can get 6 inches of snow on Easter. 

On 12/13/2022 at 4:26 PM, piotrek said:

Hmm... maybe 2-3mm higher than the centre-line of the shaft. It is hard to tell and I wouldn't want to mislead. Best you 'bench-test' it first with cables attached and locking pliers. 🙂

 

What size screw did you use?

Finally doin it!

Will report back...

I normally take a 45 in TCX and A*, though they're non too big.

How do your Daytonas run?

Thanks

26 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

Yes, new relay is working as advertised and bike cranks as desired now.  Why it died prematurely is one of those mysteries of life.  That's what I'm going with. 🤷‍♂️

Tyre seems to be holding pressure today after being pumped up overnight so can only assume (never good) that the shrader valve hadn't seated properly.  It had been 2 weeks or so that it had been inflated so I could still have a slow leak somewhere.  I can only monitor it now.  Again - 🤷‍♂️

Why a she?  She only gets called a she when she gets temperamental and over the last couple of months she's been a she. 😜😉  Will I be in trouble for saying that?!

Good cranking is always nice.

Replace the Schrader valve insert; try some some silicone grease on it during install.

Yes, you are in trouble.  Men were born to be in trouble by women...

2nd

your fastest red T9 looks great and good luck with that type of charging on a bike. Does it get hot in direct sun, and does vibration reduce power transfer?

One other thing I noticed in your photos, your garage is WAY, WAY TOO NEAT, CLEAN, ORGANIZED AND UNCLUTTERED!!!

I've had the following notice over my desk since 1977

"A NEAT DESK IS A SIGN OF A SICK MIND"

Not necessarily true but often indicative of at least OCD, etc

At least in my case...

I presume the new relay did the trick nicely. Having it burn up is somewhat unusual for a relatively low mile bike. Maybe your elevated temps and a lot of frequent stop - starts had something to due with it.

A clean bike is usually a happy bike, and gives you the opportunity to give it a close-up inspection that could catch minor issues before they become major warts.

The tire air loss is strange and hopefully was an anomaly.

And why is it a she? Yes, it may be weird to ride a guy for some but I think of my bikes as appliances and not a manifestation of a life form. That way no ill will can be interpreted between us if something goes haywire or breaks.  Plus more than likely a failure is due to improper or inadequate maintenance, misuse or just circumstances (bad luck if one adheres to such reasoning).

It is the Engineer's "Way"...

I'm not sure I would bother with the brake light kit just adds more things to go wrong

Light is the key but if you want a rear brake light a cheap peel and stick red LED light strip can be connected easily and taped to the edge of the top case rack. I drill holes and add little zip ties because it's really hard to stick to polyethylene which is what most of the racks are made out of I'm not sure about the aluminum rack from GV

For Shad, even between sizes, the racks are different.  It can be confusing which rack fits which box.  My SH46 rack works with the SH29 box but you must check interchangeability.  No idea if the Yami boxes even fit the Shad racks but you'd think they would!!!

I have the SH46 and 29 Shad top cases and the SH36 paniers.

They're pretty bulletproof and water tight but more than anything else they're light.

I don't understand these guys who have these aluminum top cases in side cases. First of all , usually they're like a barn door aerodynamically , but they're friggin heavy as hell

I rented FJ09 in San Diego and it had these aluminum units that just carrying them empty hurt my arm. The top case was so heavy and it wasn't that big, allmost lifted the front wheel off the ground when it was on the center stand, empty!

No I bought my SH46 probably 12+ years ago, which fits on multiple bikes it was under $130.

Then when I got the FJ I got the SH36 in 2016, and with the mounts for the top case and paniers it was under $650.

I've since got the SH29 because the 46 seemed out of proportion for what I needed in it. It was $100 Shipped from Revzilla. 

On sale now at Shad 🇺🇸