2and3cylinders

I guess I'm old school I remember back in the day you needed to lube them and everybody used dry slide but cable life works okay however you still need to lube the throttle tube on The handlebar which I have my own concoction of silicone, Molly Grease and slickoleum

The latter was designed specifically for Ride by wire hand grips to simulate the amount of friction you get from a cable operated throttle

The clutch cable is not really an issue to lube

On my 100,000 Plus VTR I've been lubing the throttle cables the clutch is hydraulic

The throttle cables do feel smooth now!

I appreciate the input but anyone else have suggestions?

I may pick up that hypodermic injector though similar to the dry slide needle

This is really a rant because at least I believe for the Gen 1 & 2 throttle cables, the 2 basic types of pressure lubing tools don't work. The Motion Pro 3 piece luber and the Cable Life luber won't attach where they are designed to attach at the throttle tube end of the cables because of the silly plastic end fittings. No way they can fit at their lower TB ends.

Also the rubber sleeve at the throttle tube housing that pairs both halves together makes it extremely difficult to pull out of the way so lube can get dribbled into each Cable and the cable worked back and forth to work the lube down.

The old method of rubber banding a plastic bag at the top and filling it with lube is also hampered by the plastic fittings at the top of each cable.

Having the OEM heated grips also adds more frustration and time to maintenance.

Has anyone come up with a fast, easy and inexpensive means and method to lube the throttle cables?!!!

Does my ass look that big?

As a side note to my installation of the handlebar riser inserts that brought me up 1" and back 3/4 on on top of, or should I say underneath my Renthal street naked, which I haven't ridden yet, during my ongoing maintenance, I happened to look at how the bars looked now that I have the tank and airbox off. I set my phone kinda on where the pillion would be and looking forward. It seems the bars are Way Way up there! Almost like they should be on a Harley, but I think that's an optical illusion without it being dressed. 

So you went with the flaming hot red huh!

EK 525 ZVX3 - Metallic RED Heavy Duty X'ring (1300cc Rated)???

I've posted shots of my fastest route fifteen with my squidly red chain too but it was a five twenty And I reused the sprocket center Superlite sprockets

I've run two other 520.

Which gave me about 18 or so each, which is nothing to sneeze at with the CP 3.

Which I think sets up a little driveline vibration even with the damped front cog

Now I don't keep my chain meticulously clean. But why otherwise run an o-ring x ring z ring chain?

Back in the day I think they got chains off a conveyor belt drive.They were heavy and still didn't last that long.

 I think a lower numerically ratio for lower revs is a false efficiency because the CP 3 needs to rev to be in the Most efficient range.

 This has been discussed before here on

 Strangely I need a new chain.The one notch down EK in 520, Maybe because of the reused sprockets, which I thought were perfectly acceptable, didn't last more than eight thousand miles but I'd have to verify that.

I presume you kept track to your gas mileage so with your riding style.Report back if you are achieving higher mileage and you like the experience better.

3 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

I'm humpin to get my major maintenance done this month in bites.  May defer replacing the chain just to get it on the road ASAP.

Static throttle resistance check before & after may not happen.  Can drill a small hole in my Cramp Buster to ulilize as a lever to hook my fish scale to for a objective "scientific" measurement. 

But a subjective comparison may have to do.

However, after weeks of amazingly good weather, it seems we've gone back to winter for a while of course.  We can get 6 inches of snow on Easter. 

On 12/13/2022 at 4:26 PM, piotrek said:

Hmm... maybe 2-3mm higher than the centre-line of the shaft. It is hard to tell and I wouldn't want to mislead. Best you 'bench-test' it first with cables attached and locking pliers. 🙂

 

What size screw did you use?

Finally doin it!

Will report back...

I normally take a 45 in TCX and A*, though they're non too big.

How do your Daytonas run?

Thanks

26 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

Yes, new relay is working as advertised and bike cranks as desired now.  Why it died prematurely is one of those mysteries of life.  That's what I'm going with. 🤷‍♂️

Tyre seems to be holding pressure today after being pumped up overnight so can only assume (never good) that the shrader valve hadn't seated properly.  It had been 2 weeks or so that it had been inflated so I could still have a slow leak somewhere.  I can only monitor it now.  Again - 🤷‍♂️

Why a she?  She only gets called a she when she gets temperamental and over the last couple of months she's been a she. 😜😉  Will I be in trouble for saying that?!

Good cranking is always nice.

Replace the Schrader valve insert; try some some silicone grease on it during install.

Yes, you are in trouble.  Men were born to be in trouble by women...

2nd

your fastest red T9 looks great and good luck with that type of charging on a bike. Does it get hot in direct sun, and does vibration reduce power transfer?

One other thing I noticed in your photos, your garage is WAY, WAY TOO NEAT, CLEAN, ORGANIZED AND UNCLUTTERED!!!

I've had the following notice over my desk since 1977

"A NEAT DESK IS A SIGN OF A SICK MIND"

Not necessarily true but often indicative of at least OCD, etc

At least in my case...

I presume the new relay did the trick nicely. Having it burn up is somewhat unusual for a relatively low mile bike. Maybe your elevated temps and a lot of frequent stop - starts had something to due with it.

A clean bike is usually a happy bike, and gives you the opportunity to give it a close-up inspection that could catch minor issues before they become major warts.

The tire air loss is strange and hopefully was an anomaly.

And why is it a she? Yes, it may be weird to ride a guy for some but I think of my bikes as appliances and not a manifestation of a life form. That way no ill will can be interpreted between us if something goes haywire or breaks.  Plus more than likely a failure is due to improper or inadequate maintenance, misuse or just circumstances (bad luck if one adheres to such reasoning).

It is the Engineer's "Way"...

I'm not sure I would bother with the brake light kit just adds more things to go wrong

Light is the key but if you want a rear brake light a cheap peel and stick red LED light strip can be connected easily and taped to the edge of the top case rack. I drill holes and add little zip ties because it's really hard to stick to polyethylene which is what most of the racks are made out of I'm not sure about the aluminum rack from GV

For Shad, even between sizes, the racks are different.  It can be confusing which rack fits which box.  My SH46 rack works with the SH29 box but you must check interchangeability.  No idea if the Yami boxes even fit the Shad racks but you'd think they would!!!

I have the SH46 and 29 Shad top cases and the SH36 paniers.

They're pretty bulletproof and water tight but more than anything else they're light.

I don't understand these guys who have these aluminum top cases in side cases. First of all , usually they're like a barn door aerodynamically , but they're friggin heavy as hell

I rented FJ09 in San Diego and it had these aluminum units that just carrying them empty hurt my arm. The top case was so heavy and it wasn't that big, allmost lifted the front wheel off the ground when it was on the center stand, empty!

No I bought my SH46 probably 12+ years ago, which fits on multiple bikes it was under $130.

Then when I got the FJ I got the SH36 in 2016, and with the mounts for the top case and paniers it was under $650.

I've since got the SH29 because the 46 seemed out of proportion for what I needed in it. It was $100 Shipped from Revzilla. 

On sale now at Shad 🇺🇸 

Not that likely it will be needed but I've heard Amazon doesn't cover warranty claims, and the manufacturer doesn't if you by it on Amazon?!

But it sounds like you got ripped off?

Not sure if shipping for the Yuasa would make it work it but I'm at 60076

It's looks like it's been prefilled?  How does that work with shipping and of course how fresh is it?  Unusual too see a MIN (Made In Nippon) battery here.

Paddy in Surrey UK

When I try to think back, which for me is never easy, about what things cost 50 years ago, compared to today, it just adds to the cranial memory bank overload.

Even more mind boggling is what myself and I'm sure my peers were making per hour in 1973, for example.  Full time as a architect intern, being the flunky "make 14 copies of this 48 x 60 set of 20. Then render 3 of the sets using this color number legend.  Then roll them up in sets except for the rendered sets, of which you roll on a tube 2 of the rendered sets and hop on your motorcycle and get them to the (then San Francisco) Airport.   Asa and Sam will meet you in front at 5 pm.  I heard on the radio that the 101 was jammed, so get crackin."

I looked at the clock in the blueprint room and it said three o'clock.  Obviously I didn't make all the sets and just made two sets and rendered them and split for the airport. First time I split lanes the whole f****** way. And if you knew the old 101, it was scary as hell cause half of it was elevated.

And as I clenched my teeth in my full face Shoei, the first full face they imported into the united states, I said To myself

"I'm doing this for $2.75 an hour?!!!

And that was after I got a raise after six month.

So is our buying power better now or then?

4 hours ago, betoney said:

I swapped to the revised oem clutch cable (2PP-26335-02-00) many years ago.  I have Rizoma MA009 bars with 55mm height as well as Helibars +1" up and 1" back bar mount and the risers in the rear position and I don't have any issues with the clutch cable length.  Maybe the oem cable for the FJ/Tracer is longer than the R1 cable?

I guess I was not clear that I also have the -02 cable I installed years ago (and before the original design failed like it did for others); though it's no longer than the original version.  I even have a new spare -02 clutch cable in my "attic stock"!  I guess it may be up for sale here soon, along with extra rear brake pads and fork wipers & seals I bought mistakenly not knowing a pair was in each box.

The Renthal Street Naked are well up & back from stock (I have the dimensions in a folder), plus they have more sweep backward.

I also have the OEM risers in the "back" orientation.

All I know I need likely 3" more slack or I'm not (eventually) going anywhere.

I've tried a 2014 Yamaha R1 clutch cable.  It works but it doesn't have the Gradual ninety degree steel tube at the top Like the second generation clutch cable for Generation one and generation two FJ/tracers.

I have not contacted someone like Motion Pro who make custom cables to see how much one would cost and delivery time (not that I'm going to be riding until mabe June)

I only need about 2~3 more inches with the Street Naked bars and +1" up & .75" back riser adapters I have.

All the electric looms, throttle cables and Speigler brake line have enough slack.

 Has anyone found a suitable clutch cable off the shelf?

Thanks for You're input

On 2/22/2024 at 11:40 AM, motochick said:

I recently moved from SF Bay Area (where I could ride year round) to here in MO to help my sister with aging parents. I noticed the white powder on the freeway, but the backroads were better.

I'm going to get a can of something to protect my new bike from corrosion (and keep it clean).

cheers,

Jen

So you and your sister are good kids nice to hear I hope my kids do the same if necessary but I can wait

However my poor wife has to help me after surgery as I did her

I moved here for love that was 43 years ago but I wasn't really the most enamored with the Bay area other than its proximity to Yosemite and Tahoe

I think it was in '73 it rained 60 some odd days straight you needed a scuba suit mask and snorkel to ride

So I got smart and moved to San Diego now that was sacrifice moving here

If you got a garden hose and somewhere to keep your bike from freezing rinse it off and then hit it with a dilution of the protectorant with a little kerosene

And girl if you haven't go get yourself some heated gear Head to toe

Maybe some of the thin new heated base layers including socks you already got heated grips get some grips

At least you're not far from the Ozarks

On 2/22/2024 at 5:24 AM, Ride365 said:

No way, have a perfectly good old car to get salt on.  I will get out hopefully a bit on Sunday, raining today and will help clean off all the muck a bit. 

So did you get out

23 hours ago, Ride365 said:

The Honda VFR and VTR have well documented stator/rectifier issues, and yes I hate troubleshooting electrical gremlins.  

I built my own VRR inexpensively years ago and even then I've had one go out I used a Kawasaki 600 unit my biggest problem is intermittent starting which I discussed the only other soft spot on the VTR was their cam chain tensioners which most resolved decades ago with manual cam chain tensioners

The original super hawk was a 305 that's why I refer to the VTR as the vtr1f

My vtrs and I have probably six extra sets of carburetors are the largest Honda put on ANYTHING

WHEN YOU'RE RUNNING THE BIKE WITHOUT THE AIR BOX LID AND FILTER OUT YOU WANT TO KEEP SMALL CHILDREN AWAY BECAUSE OTHERWISE THEIR HANDS WILL GET SUCKED IN

The front 2 plugs I used up, 1 for my RD and the other I don't recall now.  They're only 2 amps which you can push to 3 but not 5.

I must have at least 10 seperate added circuits. 

Yes, tail light, front TS running light (right front side cowl), etc.

As you know you Could use a relay and tap the battery for juice.

I have several added circuits as well which all incorporate a relay; sometimes 2 circuits off one relay.

There were so many circuits on my VTR, fed off a + & - buss bar, each with their own inline fuse and relay, it finally became so congested with spaghetti wiring, I obtained a device that incorporates I think 6 or 8 circuits with built-in fuse slots which can be selected to either be switched or battery.   I can check and post whose it is, as I shopped around a fair bit before selecting the one I did.  It also was the smallest, and I believe could handle up to 60 amps total.

That way you need only 1 battery and ground connection and one switched input.