clint
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Posts posted by clint
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Very nice work @fanowater ! Looks OEM!
The Adventure Tech bracket is also very well made and perfectly positions the lights.
Cheers[/img]
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That's the one I have. It's very nice! High quality, and it too is cat approved.
Ah, winter sucks. I'm bored...can you tell? :-/
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I've got a set of NGK CR9EIA-9 sitting in the garage, ready to be installed sometime this winter. That being said I'll keep an eye on the header temperature using this infrared thermometer. It's cat approved!
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Wow, glad I bought and installed mine a few months ago! Awesome product! I even purchased a spare Trail Tech switch.wow, Brandon is closed? I have seen some talk of issues with the CC but I dont know any specifics and I have not experienced any issues. That does not inspire confidence though.... -
Ended up going a different direction all together.
Thank you for pointing that out. Did you order your Ohlins yet?OMG...seriously? Someone changed the "Subject" of this thread I started from "Do Not Buy" to "Issues with"? Did someone get their feelings hurt? Did I give an unfair assessment? No message to me with a "heads up, but we try be PC around here." WTF?
http://fj-09.org/thread/4637/christmas-cogent-dynamics
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OMG...seriously? Someone changed the "Subject" of this thread I started from "Do Not Buy" to "Issues with"? Did someone get their feelings hurt? Did I give an unfair assessment? No message to me with a "heads up, but we try be PC around here." WTF?
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That's because:
It is unfortunate that the thread got started with such a strong negative connotation.Recently did address the earlier style adjusters and recently began supplying the Razor R shocks with a more robust preload adjuster and tool.
"Unless I hear from K-tech explaining everything that is wrong with their shock - Do Not Buy - K-Tech Razor-R Rear Shock"
Was simply too long of a subject. (rofl)
Seriously though. As received, I just don't think this is a useable shock. Too many design flaws with the lack of preload provided, and silly tommy bars to make the adjustments. The absence of a torrington bearing is just cutting corners given the resistance that the spring offers. The tommy bars bend excessively from the torque.
People, take a look at a "normal" Razor-R shock. The adjustment rings have a HUGE number of threads for adjustment.
Now look at what I received. They flipped the position of the base plate and adjustment rings, leaving VERY little thread to adjust for preload because the base plate is at the END of the threads. I stand by my original assessment.
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I'll start a new thread when it comes in and let you know.
What shock you going with Clint?I just received a very cordial personal message from Oxracing regarding the issues I had with my purchase. Great guys who seem to be willing to make things right with their recent modifications to the shock preload adjusters. Unfortunately, I'd already chosen to go with a different product. Hopefully someone else will buy and confirm that K-tech's new setup on this shock remediates the issues.
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I just received a very cordial personal message from Oxracing regarding the issues I had with my purchase. Great guys who seem to be willing to make things right with their recent modifications to the shock preload adjusters. Unfortunately, I'd already chosen to go with a different product. Hopefully someone else will buy and confirm that K-tech's new setup on this shock remediates the issues.
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You don't need to do that in order to extract the amount Bruce was specifying. And you can see from the drawing that locktite (LT) is used on that bolt, so it doesn't break free without offering blood and skin to the motorcycle gods. Simply unscrew the cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil .Guys, any value in removing the damper rod assembly (by way of the bolt, see #15 on diagram) in order to flush more oil out? Doing the @bruceintucson oil swap thing. Thinking this could just become a giant mess without any measurable benefit and I could lose sight of how much oil I actually have to replace.
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It's a bit of a long story, but yes, they were given that opportunity. The choices they made in several areas in the build of this shock were just wrong (lack of torrington bearing, etc). Even if the spring were longer, pretty much all of the adjustment would have to be made on the TOP base ring which is inaccessible when mounted. I believe they took an existing shock from their catalog and turned it upside down for use on the FJ-09 which provided for only 3mm of adjustment.Is the problem is they sent you a spring that is too short? Replacing the spring should be easy enough. -
Absolutely! I've been working with @pattonme throughout this whole process and he's been my liaison to the K-tech representative. BTW - working with @pattonme has been amazing! I've seen the emails he's exchanged with the Rep, and he's extremely knowledgable with all things "suspension". If I choose to purchase ANY of the shocks that he is a vendor for, I wouldn't hesitate to use him again. Exceptional knowledge, service and price. BTW - there are even more issues with this shock than just the lack of preload that I just won't go into. But rest assured, pattonme has called them out on all of them.Have you already contacted them to allow them to try and make it right? or to give you an explanation?
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I hate to write a review like this, but it truly is deserved. After reviewing the merits of rear shocks, I chose to buy the K-Tech Razr-R and it has promptly been returned without even mounting it!
Here's a picture of what I was expecting.
This is what I got!
That's right, due to the length of the shock body and their decision to use a 6" spring, preload adjustment is maxed out AS-IS! +- 3mm is what you get according to them....REALLY!?!?! Pretty much NO WAY to set a proper sag. Seriously gentlemen, throw this one back to the engineers and tell them to pull their heads out of their arses!!
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Nice work brick! Let me know what Rick comes up with. No doubt it will be exceptional!Taking the forks off and going to drop them off at Cogent Dynamics http://www.motocd.com/ for some upgrades. ? After all the bikes I've owned I still didn't have the correct allen head, 14mm, to take the front wheel off. So I ended up getting these. http://m.harborfreight.com/8-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-hex-socket-set-67895.html
Rick wants to dyno them and see exactly what's in them and has a number of options. I love the shock they made. We installed a month or so ago and it made giant changes in handling. The hope is the fork work will polish the handling!
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Ah yes, I remember my first ride on the FJ. A bit more "raw and visceral" than I expected. A bit "unrefined". Notable was a "roughness" in the 3500-3800 RPM range. However, everything on this bike smooths out after 2K miles. The transformation is subtle, yet absolute. The shifting, suspension, engine all smooths out considerably. To that end, I backed off the preload and rebound considerably (I'm only 168 lbs). I also had the ECU reflashed by Two Wheel Dyno Works, created my own vibration mounts for the handlebars using neoprene washers and filled the handlebars with butyl rubber caulk. Now, I appreciate what visceralness remains. I can feel this bike talking to me. It's all in your right hand. She can be compliant and smooth, touring for thousands of miles, or slide you to the back of the saddle as you turn off the TCS, grab a handful of throtttle and raise her nose to the sky! In comparison, I took a local Versys 1000 for a 20 mile test ride and thought afterwards....WOW! SMOOTH!.....BORING! So, in summary, it's a slow transformation for the bike....and YOU.Went for a day trip with the local bike club yesterday (180 miles). My new FJ-09 rode well BUT we were cruising around 55 to 65 mph. The BUZZ in my grips was very annoying. Annoying to the point I'm considering getting rid of the bike. I have 380 miles on the OD and will go for the 600 mile service and see if it can be resolved. It is shocking to me that a bike that has the "buzz" is being made today. Twenty years ago ok, but today...unacceptable.-
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Needs to wait!?!? You're pretty much done!Tragedy in the making?
Removed front forks to swap out the oil for 3W in place of the stock 5W... as inspired by @bruceintucson in this post, and this
. This could well be the first step in a round-about journey toward a new suspension, but hopefully I can make this work and learn from it. @bruceintucson and @clint both conspired to make me do this, while @pattonme assisted with expertise and cautious optimism... so here I go. I brought the forks in the house to get the oil nice and warm before I drain it. I am traveling to Guyana on business next week, so the work needs to wait....followed by more waiting to actually test things out in the spring.
Seriously, you're only about 1 hour of work before it's done. Super simple mod. Where do you live? I'M COMIN' OVER!
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Those are my exact feelings on the matter. APE it, and forget it.http://yamahazone.biz/tensioners.html
My stock cam chain tensioner quit working in the first few hundred miles of my 2015. It was easier to use the APE manual tensioner than deal with Yamaha. I don't know if newer bikes still have the same problem, but since I put in the APE, I don't bother to keep up with the thread in the post above.
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It's very easy with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just be careful as there are small springs underneath the blades. I worked on a table with a couple of paper towels spread out so the parts can be seen easily and the springs don't roll away.
I didn't. I have separate keys for the ignition and the FJR cases. It's not really a bad thing since I can leave the engine running to power the headlight and hazard lights while I open the case to retrieve my rain gear.how'd you get them all keyed to the ignition?
I'd have to go to a locksmith if I wanted to use one key. I tried reconfiguring the lock tumblers but couldn't get the "blades" out of their "slots".
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Auto-blipper? Launch control? I'm a curmudgeon luddite...please. Ride the bike. Use the clutch. Or buy a scooter.
This kit I got from Woolich Racing is very close in price for just buying a QS, so it's worth the tiny extra cost to have auto-blipper and launch control ?( which I may use a few times) I mainly use the QS since I spoiled myself using one on my FZ-07... I'm not trying to derail the thread or anything or start a debate...Yeah, honestly my FJ-09 shifts so smoothly OOTB, I can't imagine gaining $300 - $400 worth of value from this swap. But then again, I'm not on the front straight of VIR banging down through the gears going into turn one. Then....I might want it.
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Yeah, honestly my FJ-09 shifts so smoothly OOTB, I can't imagine gaining $300 - $400 worth of value from this swap. But then again, I'm not on the front straight of VIR banging down through the gears going into turn one. Then....I might want it.I have followed this thread for a bit and come to the conclusion my FJ-09 needs no slipper/assist clutch but I will admit I did plan on doing this mod over winter...The reasons I decided not to are it's butter smooth over my FZ-07 after learning not to shift it like my FZ-07 and its now even smoother thanks to my QS and auto-blipper!! ? upgrades to the ECU... -
I wasted more time trying to fit some small hose down the tube with the cap removed than I should have. Remove the right fork, period. It's a 2 hr process, if you go slowly and consume beer. Do NOT be intimidated by this job. It's truly easy.Thank you... how lazy of me...did not read that through. Taking things apart sounds more fun anyway. Just have to see how to get, and keep the front end in the air.
Bruce detailed the process nicely in his first post. Follow that, and you're gold. I bought some Rox Shox 2.5 wt fork oil from Amazon along with a Ratio Rite Cup and had a small syringe capable of measuring 15cc.
Let me know if you have any questions.
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I got around to making this change yesterday and went riding today. MUCH BETTER! The compression is much more compliant now! No more harshness! There is still significant dive on braking, so I don't see much change there, but for the 2 hrs of work and $10, this is a significant improvment. Thanks Bruce!Discussed this several times and if you weigh under 180 or so this mod costs about $10. Take the right fork leg off (loosen the top nut first...careful of the ABS sensor & ABS disc on the wheel). Unscrew cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil (a Ratio-rite works perfect for this). Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. Snug the cap, slide the right fork back into the triples and snug it with the lower triple pinch bolt. This is a great time to raise the forks to put more weight on the front end. 5-6mm is a good compromise; use a business card with a marking on it so you can get both forks the exact height. Loosen the left top triple pinch bolt & spin the cap out til it's free. Add 15cc of fork oil to each fork leg (you can get a small graduated medicine device used for giving medicine to children for free at Walgreens/CVS, etc.)Tighten each fork cap, tighten the upper & lower pinch bolts (19 ft/lb upper, 17 ft/lb lower), slide fender into place but don't tighten bolts yet, install front wheel & torque axle but not pinch bolt, install brake calipers & torque to spec; install ABS sensor & cover. Put weight back on front wheel & bounce the front end up & down a few times using handlebars but DON'T apply the front brake. Tighten axle pinch bolt 17 ft/lb, tighten fender mounting bolts. Add 1-3 clicks of rebound and go ride. The lighter oil reduces the cheap/overly aggressive compression valving and the 15cc of oil added per for leg greatly reduces dive under braking without affecting overall ride quality. There is plenty of rebound, you don't have to worry. You could probably replace all 450+cc's of 5 wt in the right fork with 2.5 wt and still have plenty of rebound.Check your steering head bearing preload while the front wheel's off the ground. It should fall easily to either side with no drag or binding felt. Most appear to be coming from Yamaha over-tightened which drastically effects handling in a negative way!
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Bruce, do you think it would be possible to extract the 5wt fork oil out of the right leg using a syringe with plastic tubing extending down into the fork leg? At 175lb, this might be an inexpensive solution for me.
Also, is the additional 15cc of oil added to both forks 2.5wt?
Thanks for taking the time to respond and write this up Bruce!
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Bruce, do you think it would be possible to extract the 5wt fork oil out of the right leg using a syringe with plastic tubing extending down into the fork leg? At 175lb, this might be an inexpensive solution for me.
Discussed this several times and if you weigh under 180 or so this mod costs about $10. Take the right fork leg off (loosen the top nut first...careful of the ABS sensor & ABS disc on the wheel). Unscrew cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil (a Ratio-rite works perfect for this). Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. Snug the cap, slide the right fork back into the triples and snug it with the lower triple pinch bolt. This is a great time to raise the forks to put more weight on the front end. 5-6mm is a good compromise; use a business card with a marking on it so you can get both forks the exact height. Loosen the left top triple pinch bolt & spin the cap out til it's free. Add 15cc of fork oil to each fork leg (you can get a small graduated medicine device used for giving medicine to children for free at Walgreens/CVS, etc.)Tighten each fork cap, tighten the upper & lower pinch bolts (19 ft/lb upper, 17 ft/lb lower), slide fender into place but don't tighten bolts yet, install front wheel & torque axle but not pinch bolt, install brake calipers & torque to spec; install ABS sensor & cover. Put weight back on front wheel & bounce the front end up & down a few times using handlebars but DON'T apply the front brake. Tighten axle pinch bolt 17 ft/lb, tighten fender mounting bolts. Add 1-3 clicks of rebound and go ride. The lighter oil reduces the cheap/overly aggressive compression valving and the 15cc of oil added per for leg greatly reduces dive under braking without affecting overall ride quality. There is plenty of rebound, you don't have to worry. You could probably replace all 450+cc's of 5 wt in the right fork with 2.5 wt and still have plenty of rebound.Check your steering head bearing preload while the front wheel's off the ground. It should fall easily to either side with no drag or binding felt. Most appear to be coming from Yamaha over-tightened which drastically effects handling in a negative way!I changed the rear shock ( Penske 8983) I had built for me at Traxxion, it works great, the bike feels nice and planted. Now I was wondering about the front end , it does have a stiff feel to it. Dare I say cheap feel to it. I would love to hear about some front end mods here ,I'm not sure I want to go the AK20 Route.. Maybe some members here have some options I don't know about ...
Also, is the additional 15cc of oil added to both forks 2.5wt?
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