angrygirafe

4 hours ago, PeterL said:

I'm curious, why the shortys? I agree on the yummy ergonomic goodness (probably get lynched if I didn't, but I do) of adjustability- just unclear on why losing the ability to use any or all your fingers seems preferred by so many? Yeah, I'm older than dirt, verified by carbon dating, and on my first watching of "The Great Escape" I sat there critiquing Steve McQueen's form on the fence jump, but I've tried the short form levers and just didn't gel with the missing length.

Gawd, I hope I haven't just birthed the successor to the dreaded 'oil thread'!

I do two finger braking and one finger (middle) clutching. Shorties mean there’s no left over lever hitting my fingers that are still on the grips. 

Was browsing through docsimples old error thread today and wondered, did I actually reset the code correctly? Tried it after work, and it cleared. Fired it up and let it run for 5 minutes, no problems. I just keyed it on again after a couple hours and still no error code. 
 

So. 
 

I’m going to bust out the calipers, measure that molex pin, and swap it. And if everything still works, I’ll risk a short test ride, hopefully this weekend. Don’t want to go far though, because it’ll be 113F, and that’s warmer than I’d like to push the bike home. 
 

Sure would like to put some fresh gas in though. 

1 hour ago, texscottyd said:

You should never use always...  

For those bikes where the valves aren't still in spec, the tendency certainly seems to be for the exhausts to be on the tight side.   Courtesy of the internet, those are the ones you hear about.    But my trusted local mechanic tells me that less than half of the many CP3 motors he's had through his shop needed any valve adjustments.   Given that, I'm just letting mine run out to the 24K mile first service interval that Yamaha recommends...  It will be happening soon, and I'll be interested to see where mine falls on the spectrum.

Yep. My first valve service everything was still in spec. 2nd required some adjustments. 

Here’s something different…

I bought mine WITH a Sargent and swapped it for OEM

My entire right leg would go numb after 30 minutes on the Sargent, and I couldn’t feel my brake pedal. OEM sucks, but was preferable. 

5 hours ago, roy826 said:

Mine doesn't seem to do it anymore, 2020 at 6500 miles.

My clutch has a little rattle at idle and it just started doing that. Very faint but I do hear it. Not concerned about that at all I've owned way louder rattling clutches than this bikes in the past.

Are you sure you bought a Yamaha? 😂

20 hours ago, duhs10 said:

You gotta let us know what you or they find once it is finally resolved.

Will do. I’m hoping for a cool morning to take one more crack at it before rolling the dice with a shop. I’ll definitely update with anything found though. 

10 hours ago, skipperT said:

Oh boy... it’s been a bit, and I had to rescan this thread somewhat. 

so ECM pin fit: you mentioned that you adjusted it - I’d double check to make sure that the “drag” on that female receptacle is close or the same tightness or “drag” as the surrounding ones that were undamaged. Make sure the bent pin is sitting pretty along with the others. 

you mentioned before that the problem seemed to repair itself after you were messing with the TPS and APS sensor connectors. I would examine those pins in the sensor side for any being bent, and also the female connector side check those for tightness and “drag” similar to the ECM connectors. Check the YCC-Motor 2p connector for same. 

go back to the service manual tests for voltage and continuity. Verify everything is reassembled correctly. Charge the battery. Check for blown fuses again. Something is still amiss or newly amiss here. 

sorry that all I have from the armchair...

-Skip 

Thanks Skip, your help has been more valuable than I can say. I feel bad about not chasing things down more promptly, but unfortunately our summers are brutal for working outside or in the garage; 112 currently. I might have a couple cooler days this week I can trace things out, but it’s looking more like I’ll be surrendering it to a shop at this point. 
 

That beer (or bottle) is still on me if you find yourself in Phoenix someday

Hopefully no real damage?

So it was only 85 when I got up this morning, and decided to take a crack at this. I was very excited to find a damaged pin and replace it. Imagine my dismay when the pin appeared to be perfect. Getting the black collar off that connector was a nightmare, so I was able to shove it through like @skipperT. Unfortunately, it just doesn't look like it's the problem. I did push down on the little punched in tab to get a better connection, just in case. But my dash still throws the Code 60, and Diag still shows 60/0, 61/0, 62/1. If y'all think it's worth replacing (and can clue me in on the pin size, molex I'm guessing), I'll put a new one on. Otherwise, I think I'm down to a problem with the ECU, or it is a legitimate problem with the YCC-T. Lame.

3 hours ago, roadrash83 said:

 That dark tint really sucks you can't even see the cell phone they are holding and texting on!

Fortunately they’re still kind enough to offer clues by making erratic speed changes and drifting across their lane 😂

3 hours ago, fddriver2 said:

We all are. 

 

Amen

You get used to it. When I started riding, I had a 50 mile route to school one-way, in California (so, lane splitting was a thing). It seemed multiple people were trying to kill me every day. By the time I graduated, I rarely had any of those incidents. It’s not that other drivers and riders got better, but I learned what to look for, what to pay attention to, and what to anticipate.  It was hard to admit that almost all of those close calls and “people trying kill me”, maybe weren’t my fault, but definitely something I could have seen coming and avoided, but it’s the truth. At the end of the day, fault doesn’t matter, because we are the ones who will pay the price, so it’s up to us to adapt to others behavior. 
 

Earplugs on long rides will greatly reduce fatigue, and I find it easier to avoid sketchy situations if moving 5-10mph faster than general traffic. 

I’m about to ride home from work, and it will be 118 . I do wear a mesh jacket, but at this heat, I think a lightweight, non-mesh jacket would be more comfortable. My only other option currently is a Klim Latitude, but that’s heavier than I’d like for commuting. I do wear the full set on trips. But it gets to a point where feeling the hot air blowing against your skin is more uncomfortable than being buttoned up in something that isn’t so breathable. I also close all the vents on my helmet, as the hot air blowing across my face is super uncomfortable. Tinted shield, and ALWAYS closed. 

At least they aren’t as bad as Triumph keys

There is no need to be using 6th gear to accelerate, ever. Think of it as overdrive when you’re on the freeway and just cruising. 
 

What RPMs are you considering “higher”? Anything less than 5k will result in poor performance acceleration/response wise. 
 

Not being able to get past 120mph is interesting though. Have you tried that in 5th? 

I gauge my comfort with pillions by thinking of them as as poorly secured luggage that can fight physics. Even if the bike will be okay, will I be okay if my luggage shifts high side in a turn? 

When you’re driving a cage you still gauge whether there’s enough room to filter

Bumpity bump

9 minutes ago, micah2074 said:

What “bugs” does the new tracer have?

Right? Shouldn’t have any unless someone has been riding it through a humid area. And then soap and water take care of those pretty easily. 
 

In my experience, Harbor Freight is the best place to go for frustrating projects. Not for fixing a frustrating project, but for getting more. Like, 
"once I fix this tool I just bought, then I can work on my original project" 😄

Just spent a couple days in So Cal visiting the wife’s family. I was twitching looking at all the places I used to ride around there. 

I hope a heat gun makes an appearance soon

ETA: And a dremel. I knew a Kiwi who could ruin anything with a dremel 

1 hour ago, texscottyd said:

So still no resolution on this?   That has to be incredibly frustrating...  

I still need to disassemble the ECU connector. At this point its a loose connection (likely) or a bad sensor. But with temps close 100, and a list of other home projects, my willingness to sweat in the garage is lacking. 

1 hour ago, maximo said:

I haven't ridden an electric bike, but compared to all other bikes I've had the CP3 feels just like that, an overloaded washing machine. I always compare it to a hyperactive kid who has been told to hold still - there's an amazing amount of energy that is unable to be kept still, even when it tries. It's not inherently bad or unpleasant, it's just raw, impatient, and ready to explode into action. 

On the occasion I can get the FJ running, the first thing I notice now is the vibration. I keep wondering if it was the same before my maintenance debacle, but I guess the 50k miles of good memories on it didn’t notice the vibration. It’s a great machine, and I wouldn’t change anything about it. Except to have it working reliably again. 😄😭

I thought it was smooth until I got a Zero. Turns out the FJ is actually like riding an overloaded washing machine

JK. I think the FJ is fine, compared to my limited experience with other bikes. I will admit my dad’s GSX1100G inline 4 was exceptionally smooth compared to the parallel twins and triples I’ve ridden.