angrygirafe

43mpg is the sweet spot for me. But like Wintersdark and Betoney, I bought it for fun, not fuel economy. That’s just a bonus 😁

11 hours ago, i_ride45 said:

Allow me to clarify, I have only been stopped about 4 times on motorcycle in 10 years of riding. The rest of those times were in a vehicle, but I was just speaking of my general experience with US cops. Also, most of those times were in my early 20's, driving rather flashy vehicles, in a  small town, late at night with not many other cars on the road. In other words, I was almost asking for it.

One of my motorcycle stops was after a CHP chopper spotted me doing 160+ on my R6 and called in the ground units to catch me at a stop light. They were very grateful I did not run and only wrote me a ticket for 100+ when they could have easily taken me in.

My second helicopter incident my buddy and I were riding our DRZ400 Supermotos on some twisty mountain roads passing many cars over double yellow lines. They followed us in the air for 13 minutes without us knowing and ground units had a mini road block set up when we pulled into town. Again, they could have taken us in but only gave us a reckless driving ticket. That video is fun to reminisce but I have since learned my lesson and toned down my street riding quite a bit.

The other 2 times were mild infractions and I was let got with no tickets.

And I thought I was lucky for just getting yelled at for doing 85 in a 55 construction zone while lane splitting at night. 
 

1 hour ago, jamespz03 said:

I think I'm thinking of Tortilla Flat but I can't remember. You're a badass.

There’s a Tortilla Flat ride east of Phoenix here that’s pretty nice, but it gets busy and turns into dirt road halfway through. 
 

No badass here, I just hate being in a car. I’d rather cook lol

12 hours ago, jamespz03 said:

My in-laws just moved to Yuma, which I know is not close to PHX. I know there's a popular canyon road/ride somewhere near you that I want to check out. Then again, it could southeast near Tucson. I just can't remember.

Do you ride year round or skip the hottest months?

I ride year round. Warmest I’ve seen the FJ claim was 124F while sitting at a red light. It was a little toasty. 
 

I haven’t explored too much to the south; I usually head towards the mountains in the north for some cooler weather 😂

1 hour ago, jamespz03 said:

Yeah, I live 10 minutes from tons and tons of canyons which is nice. I only missed about 10 days of commuting last year to weather so it's nice. I'm looking forward to those heated grips.

 

Where are you located now?

I’m in Phoenix. There’s good riding in Arizona, but you have to make a day of it to get the good stuff, and it’s still not as good as what you’ve got 10 minutes away 😂

2 hours ago, jamespz03 said:

Hi and Thanks angry! I appreciate the route info. 

You live a great place for riding. I don’t miss much about California, but the riding there is second to none

Ha! Malcom Smith did a lot of my maintenance when I was in Cali. Heading south go up to Lake Matthews, and take Gavilan Road and Santa Rosa Mine Road to the 74, 74 to I5 and home. It’s a longer route than it needs to be, but those first few roads are quiet with a few twists in them. You’ll enjoy the bike without having to wring out the throttle 

Whelp. I made it 3/4 of a mile before the engine died, light came on, and fault 60 was displayed. 
 

Fortunately it’s a little hazy, so only 92 degrees pushing it home. Cold shower time. 
 

I’m convinced it’s a loose connection on that YCCT sensor circuit. Or I should say “more convinced”, since Skipper basically narrowed it down to that already. I’m guessing a shorted ECU would not let me get out of the neighborhood and up to 4th gear before remembering it’s broken. Will pull apart the ECU connector next. After a beer. Or two. 

Omg you guys, it lives! So, I’ve had a bit of a hiatus. Starting to get warm here in Phoenix, and there was some landscaping and attic electrical work I needed to get done before that kind of activity becomes fatal. 
 

This afternoon I got back to it. I didn’t remove the suspicious pin from the plug, but I did unplug and replug the YCCT Servo. Key on. NO ERROR?!?  Fired it up, and it caught! The idle is a little low, but not bad. The gas in the tank is now 5 months old and the airbox is off, so maybe that’s it. Gonna put it back together, and if it still works, a test ride is in order 🙂

1 minute ago, texscottyd said:

😳

Now THAT is proper use of a traffic circle 

4 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I could say the EXACT same thing about you and how you come off.  So look in the mirror.  Facts are facts, subjective banter is just that.  Each to their own but life is what it is and it is never easy for most, and you need to get one. You were not sharing but prostletizing.

Dude. Do a quick search for “engineer” on this forum and see how many times you mention being one. 
 

Methinks Rovari isn’t the one proselytizing...

3 hours ago, betoney said:

Just got pulled over a week ago... "I pulled you over because you rocketed out of that traffic circle at 50mph".  I have my wallet and paperwork in my tank bag, I handed him my license and insurance and was all yes officer, no officer.  A few minutes later he let me go with a warning. 

I feel like traffic circles are designed specifically to tempt us 😂

9 minutes ago, maximNikenGT said:

Good reminder about asking before reaching for my wallet, which reminds me, if I'm licensed  for concealed carry, am I supposed to disclose that at the beginning of the stop?

It depends on the state. Some require you to disclose IF your are carrying, others do not. I don’t think there are states that require you to disclose your permit if you’re NOT carrying at the time. I always disclose if I’m carrying regardless of the state requirement, because I don’t want any misunderstanding about my intentions. I usually open with a very loud and clear “Sir, I am carrying a concealed handgun at” and specify where on my body it is. 
 

In Wyoming, the handful of times I got pulled over they were super cool about and we talked carry preferences for a few minutes 😂

Haven’t been pulled over in Arizona yet. I feel like they probably won’t be as casual about it here in Phoenix. 

I like that you’re planning on getting pulled over 😂

Kill switch, kick stand, stay on the bike, with the heels of my hands on the bars and fingers raised. I keep helmet and gloves on as I’m not removing my hands from the bars until I’ve confirmed the officer is okay with me doing so. I also ask permission to reach for my wallet. I’ve never had to remove my helmet so far. 
 

And yeah, “yes, sir” “no, sir” “my apologies, sir” has kept me out of tickets so far. 

14 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Ha!  I am always a bit trepidatious when spraying anywhere around electrical bits as well but I'm thinking....  it's a motorbike designed to be out in the elements so should be OK? 🙏

It should be. God help us if riding in a heavy rain compromised the electrical system 😂

14 hours ago, betoney said:

Maybe I am overly cautious but that makes me nauseous to see the spray foam all over the gauges and the wiring below that in front of the tank.  I never spray water on any thing above the red line on your side panel.

You ever been riding through standing water and had a car come the other way? It’s basically the same thing, but with dirt and debris instead of soap. It’s fine 🙂

Ran out of time today before I got to figure out the connector. I can’t tell if I got the lock all the way released. It popped out a little, but I was hesitant to see if it would go further. I’ll try and fashion a custom paper clip and watch some videos at work tomorrow (hooray desk job) to see if I can get those pins pushed back. 
 

Really hoping the ECU didn’t get shorted. It looks like the male pin it got pushed against doesn’t get connected to a wire (the female plug has a silicon plug in that pin) but no idea if that male pin is connected to anything in the ecu. 

Spoiler alert: still Fault 60. I got the pin straightened out decently, and also pushed the obstructing plastic away from the female pin on the other side. It just kind of slid back, like it was a broken piece. But it did clear the pin. 
 

Plugged the unit in, turned on the key, and it still showed 60. Cranked it anyway, but no dice. The 60 does disappear while cranking, but comes back once I stop. 
 

Got into Diag mode, still no changes for Diag1 or Diag13. Diag61 showed two errors. I rocked the switch and it cleared one, one still pending.

Unplugged the ECU again and the pins were still straight. Checked then connection at the servo which was solid, then checked continuity from there to the ECU plug, which was good. 
 

But maybe the female pin is bent out or something since the plastic seemed damaged.  I’ll try and look at that closer tomorrow. 

15 hours ago, skipperT said:

@angrygirafe yes, that’s your culprit! 
somehow the pin was displaced and punctured into the wrong area of the connector. 
if it were me, I’d carefully straighten the male pin in the ECM to where it supposed to be with the smallest pair of pliers that will fit in there - or use a set of tiny hemostats, tweezers, whatever you can get in there to carefully (!) straighten that pin. Just get it as close to in line with the others as you can.

As far as the the connector pictured above: I would try to gently enlarge the hole you are pointing to with the Red arrow so that it’s the same (or slightly bigger) than the holes around it. You’ll also need to verify the female receptacle that sits in both of those cavities hasn’t become larger than it should be, or it won’t make a good connection. 
 

it IS possible to get at those female pins by some secret method that I can’t describe to you yet, I’ll have to pull apart my bike to determine how. Usually there’s a locking mechanism that holds all those female receptacles into the connector.  Popping it out and tightening it up with pliers is easier when removed from the connector, but it’ll take some hunting to figure out how to get it out of there. 

its also possible to order a new ECM connector, but Yamaha will only sell a complete harness. Hopefully you can repair yours...

Be very ginger the first time you attempt to reassemble that plug into the ECM. If it doesn’t slide in easily or feels not right, recheck and gently keep tweaking the alignment until it seats together again.  If you’re careful and take your time, I know you can get it to work again. 

Nice work, good find!

-Skip

Oh man, I feel special. I noticed that pin days ago, but assumed it was fine since it was bent so neatly. But you know what they say about assuming. Female connector looks fine. I’m guessing the pins in it are similar to a Molex connector if I need to try and pull that one. 
 

I will *very gingerly and with great fear* try to straighten that pin tonight. Pucker factor of ten. 
 

Thank you so much for the walk throughs. Whether this fixes it or not, I owe you a beer (okay, a bottle) if you ever come though Phoenix. 
 

Will report this evening!

9 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Jeez, I wonder what brute shoved that connector on and bent that pin.

You don't have to be scared to R&R various connectors but you must have finnese. If it doesn't go together, find out why.

I hope I’m not the brute, but since I did ride it home from the shop, I believe the evidence points towards me. The locking tab on the connector is all sorts of messed up though, so it’s definitely been handled less than gently in the past. 

22 hours ago, skipperT said:

snip

Okie dokie, I snuck out to the garage for a few minutes and scored some additional poking.

I started with the YCC-T Servo plug (hopefully, it's got a half circle in blue just incase I'm off), and the plug and socket looked good, and were firmly attached. 

I then did a continuity check on my meter, and verified frame to ground, and the ETV fuse block non-powered side to one of the R/W wired on the larger ECM plug.

So moving on to the pins. On the large connector, Pin 7 (red arrow) is folded down agains Pin 18 (blue arrow). I did notice this the other day, but because it looks neatly folded I assumed it was normal. On the plug side, the slot for Pin 7 is much smaller (red arrow), then there's an extra hole between it and the slot for Pin 18 (blue arrow). The slot for Pin 18 is enlarged.

I checked the YCC-T Servo wires next, with continuity from one to Pin 8, and the Other to Pin 7. However, nothing is plugging into Pin 7 since that blade is bent to Pin 18.  Looking at the back of the wiring harness, it looks like Pin 18 is sealed off with a silicon plug, so unless it's internally connected, that servo is only halfway connected. I couldn't verify internal connection with the safety pin I had, it was too small for the large slot. But I can find something tomorrow. Could this be my culprit? Obviously I'm hesitant to start bending the pins on the ECU around, in case it was built that way. The plug side looks way strange with the different hole sizes and the extra hole though.

18 minutes ago, skipperT said:

@angrygirafe great stuff, now we’re rolling. 
 

re fuse box, what you describe is what I’d expect: one connector in the box provides either switched or constant 12v and the terminal opposite (bridged by the fuse) would be 0v (until a good fuse is connected) thereby  providing 12v to the circuit. Make sense?

re: DIAG mode, there’s your problem or at least WHY you have a code 60: channel 1 and 13 should move similarly to channels 14 and 15. 

What other accessories are installed on your bike? Anything else different from stock? I need some more background info. what exactly was removed or changed since the bike ran last when you brought it home from the 2nd shop?

-Skip

Fuses totally make sense. I started measuring across terminals until realizing some wouldn’t necessarily have a path to ground unless controls were being manipulated so started checking them to ground on the battery. 
 

The kicker is there isn’t anything I’ve done to the bike aside from the teardown. It’s had the weak idle since the first shop in November, but I think we’re safe assuming busted vac cap is the culprit there. 
 

Things I’ve unplugged since having it home are the battery, front turn signals, fuel pump, ECU, and every fuse. Today I added the APS sensor to that. Everything has been plugged back in for diagnostics or start attempts. New battery currently installed. 
 

I have a few electrical and fueling mods, but nothings in the last few years. APS sensor position adjustment I think was 2017. Yamaha heated handgrips installed 2017 I think. Second Yamaha branded 12v accessory outlet in 2017. ECU flash (2WDW), and charcoal canister delete was summer 2018.  At the same time I installed a tail tidy, new brake light with integrated turn signals and flush mount front led signals, all from Motodynamic, including a flasher relay. Everything else is cosmetic or bodywork related like windscreen, hand guards, luggage, etc. 
 
A lead for a battery tender junior has been on it for years, but not used religiously. It’s old enough the tender may be toast, and I haven’t connected the leads back to the bike with the new battery installed. 
 

The ECU connectors are kind of a pain. Not much slack in the cable. Could I have pulled a wire loose disconnecting those you think?

23 hours ago, skipperT said:

No Problem... Sorry, I had to go and consult the service manual:

on page 8-70 (my 2015-2016 book anyway) is a box with a description of fault code 60: YCC-T malfunction. Things to check are listed there, but if it were me - I'd head straight to the 7.5A fuse under the seat, labeled ETV or Electronic Throttle Valve. I'd expect it to be blown, replace and you should be all set. Even if it doesn't look blown, swap in another and report back.

EDIT: looks based on this thread that you have already done that... Still I would replace that 7.5A fuse with another to be sure.

Next, did you loosen and remove the APS sensor from the throttle body? If so check that it's installed correctly. 

Check to make sure the connectors aren't reversed (TPS->APS connector and APS -> TPS connector.

On that note - the plugs for the Coil Packs are THE SAME as the plug for the YCC-T motor, I think it would be difficult to mix up on this engine, but verify.

DIAG mode can help too: use the same channels as adjusting TPS/APS settings and see if there are any values (DIAG channel 1, 13, 14, and 15) when the throttle is rotated. Silly question, but are the cables connected properly? do they rotate the APS the proper direction (may not be possible to mix up but still...

If nothing above helps, it will be down to tracing wires: at the 4P, 1 is power, 1 ground, and the other 2 are output voltages FROM the sensor TO the ECM. In theory you should have 12v on 1 wire each at the 4P connector of the TPS/APS and continuity to ground on 1 wire with key on.

If we need to get more detailed I'll need to do more research and get back to you...

If you need more help, post back too.

HTH, Skip

Okie dokie, I got some data.

Since you're suspicious of the ETV fuse, I looked a little farther into it. The fuse IS fine, and if you're on the left side of the bike, the RIGHT terminal of the fuse block for that fuse has 13V to ground, key on or off. The left side has nothing to positive or ground, key on or off, and so not surprisingly, there's not measurement across the fuse terminals. I'm tempted to stick a piece of 14ga wire between the terminals, but since there's problems, that idea also scares me.

The DIAG mode was interesting. I've never checked 1 or 13 before, so I'm not sure if those are supposed to change.

I checked the Connector and Plug on the APS sensor, and measure values from the Plug to ground with the key on and off, with the plug oriented as the picture shows, and numbering the slots 1-4 starting from the left. Slot 1 had 12V to (+), Slot 2 had continuity to ground, and Slots 3 and 4 each had 5V to ground with the key on.

I checked the connections as best I could, but as I have never personally removed the air box until today, it's unlikely I screwed up any connections underneath it. From what I could tell, the way the cables are taped to together they can't reach the wrong terminal, at least, not without another cable being unable to reach anything. And since I did ride the bike home, I'm guessing none of these are wrong. 

Anything else I should be looking at in here? Or is that DIAG1 and DIAG13 seem wonky since there's no change with throttle position?

Thanks

@skipperT, thank you for the list! I have replaced the ETV fuse, both with a spare, and one from the turn signals that are working. No luck there. 
 

I’ll start double checking through the others tomorrow; about to go visit some family for the evening. I really appreciate the suggestions though. I figure it’s got to be something I did since I rode it home from the shop, and I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what. 

6 minutes ago, skipperT said:

@angrygirafe the numbers you cleared via DIAG mode in channel 61 and 62 and what you’re experiencing in DIAG? Normal. 62 is the number of occurrences THAT HAVE BEEN REPAIRED. 61 Is the actual fault code number. 
This is a VERY important distinction to understand. 
finally, the reason fault code number 60 shows on the IC display and NOT channel 61 is because it is ACTIVE and not yet REPAIRED. 

Hopefully that clears things up...

-Skip

Thanks Skip, that does help a bit, and it's encouraging to know that at least that is normal. Guess now I need to decide if I'm going to take it to shop yet again and hope that this time it comes back better instead of worse, or just light it on fire in the back yard and be done with it.

The drama continues. I got a new battery installed, and still getting the Fault 60 on the dash. It's trying to start, and it sounds like it almost catches a few times, but nada. What's really bugging me is if I get into DIAG + INFO, and scroll to 60, it shows 00 - no data. I did go to 61, and it scrolled through a handful of numbers. I went to 62, and toggled the start switch to reset the errors. Now, 60 shows 00, 61 shows 00, and 62 shows 1. The dash still shows 60 during a normal startup.

I can't think of where else to look. I've checked EVERY fuse at least three times, ohmed EVERY fuse once, cleaned each 7.5 amp fuse with contact cleaner, replaced the ETV fuse with a new one. Ohmed and cleaned that. Replaced the battery. Hunted for sensors that I might have disconnected. The only things that I can think I unplugged are front turn signals, ECU, and fuel tank. ECU gets plugged back in to test, and I've tried the DIAG + DATA mode with the fuel tank unplugged and plugged back in. 

Only thing I can think of is maybe I pulled a wire loose in the one of the ECU connectors? That'll be fun to trace.

I always just filled an MSR fuel or two bottle and shoved them in a pannier. It’s cheap 🙂