dazzler24

8 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Mr. D

So side stand switch screws are 5 mm? x what length?

Bolt, Button Head

92014-05020-00

I want them in hand when I replace them with standard SS socket head screws & lock washers.

What size & type are the 4 side stand switch cover screws?

As I said last year, If I would have known they put red Loctite on them!!!

I may have kept the one I replaced.  If I recall they were about 1" long...

Thanks

I can't tell you for certain 2and3 as at the time I threw them into the bin in a bout of crankiness.  However, I think I replaced them with 5 x 25mm ones. As you say, about an inch.  It's not that critical as they go through the mount and are clear of any interference on the backside anyway.

Now, the four cover screws...🤔  I have to say that I can't recollect their details other than to say that they came out without any issues so maybe not worth worrying about IMHO.

So, can I assume that you think it may be your side-stand switch that is giving you the grief?  Or are you playing safe.

Congrats.  I had all of those same feelings and feedback after doing up my suspension on the same vintage bike a few years back.

It was like night and day.  Then, when following up with some great rubber a bit later on, put the cherry on the cake.

Enjoy your "new" bike!

@2and3cylinders - wow, this was coincidental!   Looking forward to seeing what you find. 

Thought I'd jinx myself by following up on this earlier post from last year by saying that I've not experienced the original issue again since, and I've been on quite a few outings since then.

There, I've done it now!

I'm thinking the issue was because the key wasn't quite completely latched into the ON position - or at least that's my best assumption/guess for anyone that might ever come across a similar symptom.

I can't offer you much other than this out of the manual....

9 hours ago, bwringer said:

The Aussie Amazon link is to the EBC CT021 tool, which seems to fit a buncha Hondas, but what is in the application guide for our machines, and in the photo, is the EBC CT020 tool. 

I've ordered one (under $30 USD), even though I don't really have plans to monkey with the clutch for a good long time. I've always felt that special tools like this should be considered part of the bike.

 

Thanks for pointing out the error I made with that link.  You are of course correct in that the tool is in fact the EBC CT020 (not the 21) .

Just for the record I've fixed the link in the original post.

The one I have....

ANZAC day here today followed by a run in the country while blessed with some glorious weather.  Throw in some induction roaring and it doesn't get any better. 😁

Really appreciating the difference my recent de-gronking of the clutch makes to the feel of the bike.

7 hours ago, texscottyd said:

There’s a lot of truth to that statement, which I’m only recently starting to appreciate.  After decades of planning and saving, I’m closing in on 60, and realizing that NOW is the time to start enjoying the things that we’ve rightfully earned over the course of our careers.   

I’m not a proponent of generational wealth (presumably since my wife & I didn’t come from that background), and our kids have been given educations and every opportunity to be productive and self-sufficient.   At this point, we’re selfishly (and unapologetically) living for ourselves… #DieWithZero 

Hear, hear!

Couldn't have said it better myself.

29 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I guess I'll cut you slack and not say I'm flabbergasted you don't have at least an inexpensive workbench top drill press. Harbor Frieght Tools sold some nice Taiwanese made machine tools in the 80s, they've been Chicom made since.

I presume this means you also  don't have a lathe, table mill, bandsaw, table belt sander, or stick, MIG and TIG welder.

I thought all you down and down down under types out of shear necessity all just made your own.

"Fastest Indian" mode and all that.😆

Ha!  I've got a little MIG out of that list but that's it, other than a lot of hand tools.

And I have considered getting a 'cheap' drill press if that counts. 😁

6 hours ago, fr8dog said:

My 2016 is ridiculously noisy at idle and there is a "gronk" at low speed take off. Noise quiets down when clutch lever pulled, but there is still some rattling. What does cam chain rattling sound like? Is some noise normal?

So I guess I'm gonna join the party on this fix. I have to buy the basket. Repairing from scratch may be above my tech abilities.

I have 70k miles on the bike. I realize I can measure the plates to see if they're in spec. 

Would you all just buy the basket and clutch kit and be done with it? Also need to get that fancy tool @dazzler24used.

Dan

 

FWIW - If I had the prerequisite tools I would have attempted the repair path rather than the expensive alternative.

To do a decent job I believe you'd need a drill press and a few of the other tools already mentioned in other posts to do this properly - most of which I don't have.

Have you considered taking it to a machine shop armed with all of the great info on what is required from posts in the forum?  I might even do that with my 'spare' unit a little later on to either keep it as a spare or sell to recoup some of the cost of buying the new unit.

Anyway, my 2 cents worth.

On 4/20/2024 at 12:53 AM, bwringer said:

@dazzler24, where/how did you get that lovely clutch holding tool? Got a link? 

I'm also generally not clear on why/how you ordered from Webike rather than a US parts source like Partshark. Can you explain that a bit more? Got a list and/or links?

Congrats on your newfound gronklessness!

I bought that tool (EBC) a ways back when I did the slipper update. Think I bought it from one of the usual online giants at the time but here is a link that may kick you off on a local hunt in the US for yourself.

I'm from Oz so buying from Japan or the US can be similar cost wise to get stuff here.  I know Webike had an option to ship, literally via a ship, to me here at the time which significantly reduced to overall cost which can be prohibitive at times when buying from the US.  Here's my post on the purchase.  Having said that, I bought my slipper kit from Partshark back in 2019 so do share the love around. 🙂

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Cute trick I presume taking out? the left center stand bolt and inserting 2? fender washers to create a reaction stop for the clutch holding tool. Am I correct in exactly what you did?

Also good idea replacing the s/a damper rubbers.

So after spending $135 on a new battery,  how do I minimize SWMBO blowing a heart valve for another $350 for a clutch basket???

BTW, the original 8+ year old OEM battery did test out bad.

Ha! There's no getting anything past you 2and3.  Of all the people on this forum, it was you who I thought would ask/comment about that and you haven't disappointed. 👍

That's pretty much exactly what I did to support the clutch holding tool as....

1. I don't have enough hands and

2. that nut was on tiiiight!!

Actually, I used a longer bolt for more support in the frame and arranged the spacers and a few more washers to ensure it was lined up properly with the clutch basket.

I even took a photo at the time to show what I did in anticipation of 'someone', (AKA 2and3cylinders), asking. 🙂

I know you have an enquiring mind. 😀

-------------

SWMBO's heart valve trumps you on justifying a new clutch basket I'm afraid.

-------------

Good to know that you've confirmed it was the old battery that was the culprit.

------------

Ok for me it's official.  Fixing the gronk is a night and day experience which surprised me a little by the amount of the difference.

As many others have attested to before me, the bike feels tight and new again.  Who would have thought that a tiny bit of movement between the clutch basket cogs would make such a huge difference in the rideability/feel of the bike.

Anyway, without labouring the point more than necessary, I say to anyone who's thinking about it is - "NIKE" - just do it!

14 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

It’s a new 2024 that I took delivery of at the end of December.   I had a very specific set of options I was looking for, so I special ordered it back in October.  More money than I probably should have spent on a car, but in this age of $80K pickup trucks, it almost seems like a bargain.  

It’s an incredibly engaging & entertaining car to drive, and I haven’t regretted a single minute of owning it. 

I won't lie... very jealous of your garage full of goodies.

I looked up the price, out of curiosity, for one of those beauties and immediately called for the defibrillator! 🤑 😲

Congrats on the new purchase - very nice. 👍

8 hours ago, piotrek said:

Like others on here, I highly recommend doing this. That awful racket at idle in neutral is all but gone, as is the low speed/RPM judder (in traffic, for example). I also recommend taking the shine off the clutch plates with a scouring pad... and shuffling the friction plates a bit (still maintaining thickness order of course). The whole thing feels new, quiet and tight when done. A new clutch basket is another route... but $$.

All of these reports and glowing feedback convinced me to do this - today!  Thanks.

'tis the season for de-gronking.

Finally got around to replacing the Primary driven gear to address my perceived gronk today as well as doing an oil and filter change.

I was never 100% sure that I had it (gronk) until I dropped off the clutch housing and with the bike in 6th gear, pushed and pulled the rear wheel and observed the slight play and 'click' that many report.  It can be seen at around 2:52 in this excellent video which works through the issue.

EDIT:- While I simply followed the video mentioned above that steps through the process, I opted to not remove the oil pump cog because you can just coax the bearing and sleeve out of the clutch hub gear while the chain is still attached and that will then drop down enough to release the chain from that bottom cog.  Installation is simply the reverse.

I had a really tough time getting the staked nut off as I used red loctite last time when I did the slipper clutch update.  So this time I used the blue stuff.

Performing the same 6th gear trick as above now shows zero movement and no click.

Has it made a difference?  I won't know until tomorrow or later as rain is forecast again. 🙄

While in there, I checked my plates, complete clutch pack and clutch springs tolerances and all were well within spec (as expected).

The installation included a new 2nd generation primary gear, new boss nut, slipper clutch rubbers and new gasket.

Blue this time!

7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daryl,

Was he Dutch and white...

BTW, It was the battery not the relay. After I charged the old man over night it fired right up.

Question is will it hold enough of a charge for me to ride it until the new power cell gets here.

I can bring along I guess my Lithium Jump pack but...

I know what you're trying to imply Bret with your opening reply, but let's not overthink it and paint all Dutchman with the same white brush eh 🤔

While your bike fired right up I still wouldn't discount the relay, especially since you mentioned arcing noises emanating from it.  My bike would behave just like that too.  Wouldn't crank, then would normally for a week or two, then wouldn't, relay making strange noises so just maybe.....??  Just sayin.

Having said that, I guess at 8 years old the "old man" has had a good innings anyway.

Anyway, enough hijacking of the thread.  The skipper still hasn't got the reply to his original question!

15 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I believe WP was a Dutch company and originally named White Power (yeh, did PC win out?), and was bought by KTM, whose taken off and run with it.

From what I read, the founder's name was Wim Peters (WP) and the springs were white because they were painted at a establishment that made./painted hospital beds which of course used white paint and the distinctive white coloured suspension gained the "handle" of white power.

5 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Well, coincidentally I believe my original OEM battery gave up the ghost today after 8 years (can't complain), I have one more test to run (see if it starts without the starter relay clicking and making serious fritzing noise).

Your battery checks above look good.

Hopefully you've not fallen to the old "starter relay dying and not the battery dying" trick?!

I suspected my battery a little while ago but all the time it was a failing starter relay.

YMMV of course. 🙂

We all know when it's time to move on from whatever we're engaged in in life and motorcycling is no exception.  Sounds like you've enjoyed this part of the journey and have now handed over the reins.

Not everyone experiences the joy of this facet of life and I'm sure you have great memories over the 55 years of riding and look forward now to your grandson's stories.

All the best going forward into the next phase in life.

12 hours ago, skipperT said:

Curious that the shock doesn’t appear when you select our bikes from the drop-downs on the WP website…. Huh. 

-Skip

Not sure what you mean skip but I found mine for the 2015 model albeit for MT-09?  There are later models that get a mention though - Tracer900 etc.

You may have got caught like I did initially and didn't select the street option first?

Hmmm.... this looks familiar.

I think the skipper is asking about this particular brand of suspension products if I'm not mistaken.

I must admit that I'd never heard of them until this post.  After a bit more research the products are sold at one of the more respected suspension shops here in my neck of the woods so that might indicate their quality? 

Apologies to those who are in the know if these are a well known brand and I'm just showing my ignorance in the sphere of suspension products.

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Finally doin it!

Will report back...

Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

Long overdue ride in the country after starter relay issue finally got fixed and front flat tyre recovered itself?  Yes, that last one's a mystery.

BROOLOO Range

KENILWORTH

MONTVILLE