2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 Good video how-to filling this oiler.

Just got one but too late for this season.

https://www.amazon.com/GIDIBI-Motorcycle-Lubrication-Grease-Universal/dp/B07KK6DP5B/ref=pd_sbs_sccl_6_5/146-0294463-8111965?pd_rd_w=AWKDs&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd9455ba-de47-4388-abd2-446637a34f4d&pf_rd_p=cd9455ba-de47-4388-abd2-446637a34f4d&pf_rd_r=G3919SWJJA3BBTA1AMV9&pd_rd_wg=97QMO&pd_rd_r=87ebc98e-7158-4180-a92e-2f657b435802&pd_rd_i=B07KK6DP5B&th=1

Yes that's the way it's done as a video description - even though the words on the screen at the beginning say -"First you must twist to the top.....".  However, and as can be seen, the body is screwed down to the bottom of its travel first thus exposing the inner oil reservoir.

Anyway, otherwise all good.  Hope you like your new oiler 2 and 3.  🙂

10 hours ago, Bryklo said:

Found out the title has a lien on it.  Sounds like a nightmare to deal with remotely 🧐

Hmmm,  might be the reason it's been advertised so cheap eh?

FWIW - that sounds just like my 2015 at idle. i.e. perfectly normal - at least in that recording of the sound.

7 hours ago, jcarlson9 said:

Can't get the damn photos straight.

Yea, I've had that problem occasionally too.  My cludgy 'fix' is to use the snipping tool (in Windows in my case) on the original photo and that seems to straighten things out when the snip is posted. 🤷‍♂️

Not elegant, but works!

Does this help with what you are trying to achieve?

7 hours ago, kilo3 said:

I did the easy button and just bought the new basket. This seriously took 15 mins to do.

Night and day difference. I took a quick spin around the block before hand since I wanted to do a quick back to back test.

Feels like it did for the first 3k of ownership before I started chasing my tail trying to find that weirdness gronk feeling.

I have ~20k on my bike.

Also keeping my old basket and going to modify to keep it around as a "just in case." I haven't heard anyone have issues with the new basket but more time/miles my be required but I think we are in the clear.

Yet another in a long line of happy customers after doing this it seems.

I bought the new basket too but as yet haven't done the deed as I want to put a few more kms on her before putting her into surgery.

Good to hear that the task was a quick and easy one and you now have a 'new' bike back as a direct result. 👍

2 hours ago, kilo3 said:

Gronk removal today.

Remind me, are you going with the replacement part (later version) or the modify what you already have technique?  Interested to hear your impressions of the final result either way. 🙂

16 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

So they look about 15~17 mm up & back? Yavol?

Me no sprechanzie Luxembourger!

Danke though

You didn't say if you had the stock bars or the street naked

I have the latter so I bought these

Not sure how they'll work with my Speigler MC line and R1 radial MC with the KTM handguards 

Clutch line could be an issue too

But for $40 with only 1" up and 20 mm back, the least up I could find up.  AS my Street Naked are already up .75 and swept back an inch (but maybe are too wide; as I made them the stock width)

There is a recent review on the american amazon page of somebody recently installing them on a FJ09 Tracer

It may be then that I'm gonna  hafta go with something like yours. But I haven't found one yet. And I don't want to pay a fortune like you did. Ha ha ha ha.

 

I actually did say that I have the street naked bars.  Mentioned them by name and have a link to their site too.

Have a look back in this post and you'll see them on my 'even faster' Grey 🙂

And yes, I should just about have the risers paid off by the time I'm ready to trade the bike - in a few years time!

Here's those dimensions...

4 hours ago, daboo said:

I just bought a F900 XR, so I've joined the chain gang.  After looking at a lot of different oilers on the market, this is what I ended up buying.

GIDIBII Motorcycle Chain Lubricator Oiler Auto Hand Control Motorbike Oil Cup Part (Black)

It works on a very simple principle.  Fill the cup with your favorite oil.  Twist the cap a quarter turn every few hundred miles and your chain is oiled.  No vacuum hoses, electrical connections or wind to complicate the issue.

The jury is still out on how well it works, but so far I'm pleased.

Chris

 

+1 from me.  I've been running one of these since 2021 and find that it does the job admirably and for a reasonable/sensible price.  Not complicated at all and that's one of the good things about it.

A little tip for anyone thinking of getting one: - One small thing to remember is that when using one of these, the body of the oiler screws down along with the cap as one piece and serves to force the oil out through the line as required.  To re-fill, you must hold the body still in its lowest (empty) position while you unscrew the cap.

Then fill with oil to the top (counterintuitively while the body is in its lowest position), then unscrew the body a bit, fill some more, rinse and repeat until the body is fully extended to its stop at the top and now full of oil.  Then the cap screws back on - don't forget to hold the body again while tightening the cap or it will begin to push out the oil when you don't intend it too.

I mention this as I fell into the trap soon after installing until the penny dropped what was going on and why I had bugger all oil in the oiler even though I was filling it - or so I thought.

Maybe there is something to be said in reading the manual after all.  🤔

11 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

D-Man

Whose brilliant risers do you run, and what amounts do they add?

I started out with lower but more sweep Outlaw Racing TH08 in below photo (a great choice if J Carlson wants something down more) but my bod cried foul!  I then went back to OEM, then and now with the Street Naked.  However, I could use just about a 1/2" ~ 3/4" up and back; though I'm willing to try a full inch.  I'm concerned though about my brake and clutch lines, if not also everything else.

Did you re-route your lines?

 

2 plus 3, I bought the outrageously priced but very high quality Gilles Tooling 2DGT way back when I was actually earning an income and could (just) afford them.😲 You can see all of the dimensions and configurations in the link above.

The Gilles risers allow some customisation in height by adding or subtracting 'washers' from the base of the stems.

Here's some photos below that I took back in the day showing the Gilles against the OEMs for comparisons.  It was a while ago but I think the risers went on as configured in the photos.

I do recall that my cables were at or near their maximum comfortable lengths but I could still left to right with the bars with no effect on increasing revs or binding etc.  IIRC the only real adjustment that I made was cracking the bolt on the master cylinder brake banjo and tilting it down a bit to relieve the little bit of tension that was there.

5 hours ago, jcarlson9 said:

Are they much lower than stock?

As 2 and 3 said - no.

Having said that, I am using mine with bar risers to suit my preference and have them up and back towards me as far as the risers will go and the bars just touch my tank bag at full lock so all good there - if that helps.

Suggest you just do a search on "hand guards" and you'll come up with lots of options.

e.g. have a look at this long thread.

Do you have a user manual?   It should show you exactly where your signalling/parking and headlight fuses are.

Mine (2015 model) are located under the right hand front covers and are shown in the attached pic.

I believe (from an earlier post) that you have a 2019 GT and so location may be different.

Have you tried plugging the OEM tail light back in (without reinstalling it) to prove if you've actually lost power?  Double check your wiring to the blaster if that checks out.   i.e. make sure you've plugged the connectors all the way home.

8 hours ago, jcarlson9 said:

I got it! The beak is on!

You're a brave man.  Well done.  Now get ready for the anti-vaxxers...... err..... anti-beakers to descend upon you with their righteous wrath and indignation! 😜🤣.

And verily, they will say unto you.......

On 10/29/2023 at 11:23 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks D-Man!

I thought it was weird that the lowering links would be longer, as I had not seen the thread you linked.

One thing you did not respond to was ground clearance, as "How low can we go?".

Yes, the bike did look and feel much lower under the belly - so there is that to consider (I didn't go to the trouble to measure it though).  I never touched down anywhere, however I was very cautious over the larger speed bumps and took that sort of thing real slow.  There are even shorter bones from Lust Racing and the like to get you down even lower but the OEMs were as far as I would like to go given the underbelly clearance issue.

Also the effect on turn-in without lowering the front.

I lowered the front a similar amount at the same time as doing the dog bones so to me the bike 'felt' the same as far as handling was concerned.

My objective is to be able to mount and dismount without using the Cowboy technique; which I've finally just about mastered; except when I'm fairly tired. Then I sometimes catch my right heel on the left pillion grab bar or nick the top case when dismounting.

A more vertical stance though would make the Cowboy technique that much more precarious, and I'm always very conscious of the angle of my dangle everywhere I park as it is.  Don't want to go over Starboard side, nor flip both of us down on the Portside!!!

I have, on occasions, done the 'Cowboy' in the bikes current configuration and TBH I would be more comfortable when the bike is more upright (i.e. lowered) performing that maneuver.  I feel that I'm more likely to pull the bike over when the bike is leaning more.  Not that it's a concern, but more of an observation. YMMV of course.

My custom Sargent saddle is up about 3/4" but also a bit wider at the front.  I also have pilot pegs that are down less than 3/4" and forward under 5/8".  I don't want to run the saddle in the low position either, as I need to maximize leg room for my back and hip issues.  So shorter dogbones my be my only option. 

Yes, I think I understand what you're trying to achieve.  Maybe not take a lean too deep with the lowered pegs AND the lowered bike though?

I was going to shorten my Razor. R the maybe 1.5 threads or so left to slow the turn-in anyway and not drop the front; which may or may not be necessary with the dogbones.  I'm not sure why my turn-in is telepathically too quick.

Maybe it's my extended belly and probiscus...

Ha!  As an engineer you should be able to do the mechanical calculations on that with the moment of force that's applied. 😉

This will be a good winter project, as I'm sending my Razor-R in for a refresh anyway.

Do you think minus 15mm is enough, as I see 20 and even 30mm shorter dogbones available?

Only you will be able to answer that but as mentioned earlier - ground clearance considerations?

Thanks once more. 

I have long been aware of the fickle weather at PI, and wonder why they don't schedule the MotoGP races farther into your summer like Superbike does.  I know that MotoGP needs to group their regional flyaways logistically but it's still a bit of a nutter.

My responses are inside the quote 👆

Actually 2 plus 3,  the shorter links are the lowering ones and the 1RC labelled bones are the stock links - see this earlier post.  There's bugger-all difference in length between them but as noted the effect is magnified by the geometry.  Here's a pic of them both, one on top of the other.
 

And just to be clear, I used to run the lowering links but that was a few years back.  I changed back to the stocks around about the time I got the Bagster seat as that was lower and I did some shaving off of the rubber mounts to go even lower.

When I was originally 'lowered' with the bones (by about 15mm IIRC) I also lowered the front a similar amount and the whole effect was quite noticeable in the saddle.  I didn't have any issues with the side stand as some have reported but I was also more discerning/conscious of the ground level where I would park.  It was more upright for sure but not teeteringly so - for me at least.  Using the centre stand did require a little more effort to deploy but just add more oomph and it'll pop right up. 🙂

And as you've noted, the Razor-R is adjustable so I could fiddle further with that to change my heights (and turn in) if I wanted to but I'm happy with the way it performs now so have left that length same as stock.

The weather you ask?  Yes, starting to warm up in my neck of the woods.  Down south, some big highs and lows conspired to turn up the breeze for the Island race.  Not entirely uncommon down there mind you. They don't call the wind down there the "Roaring Forties" for nothing.

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

So you run the longer (counter-intuitive) 1RC OEM lowering links yourself. 

I presume you like them but what are your observations?

What is their effective drop?

They only look about 6mm longer but with the geometry that could equate to 25mm.

How much more does it lean on the side stand; is it scary?

And what about the tire / tarmac clearance on the centerstand?

I'd guess it slows down steering which can be counteracted by raising the forks and/or maxing out the Razor R length (which defeats the original intent).

How much is road ground clearance reduced (we're already too low)?

Your weather should be heating up but it sure blew up the PI races!

Thanks

I don't recall exactly how I got those link nuts off but pretty sure it was not a struggle

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Oh and how did you get the link nuts loose? I tried when I changed the whole assembly out with a low-mile used set and was going to clean and grease my originals for spares.

Bugger tight but I didn't try using a hot air gun or micro-torch.

Would these do the trick?

15mm seems like plenty.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172714421336

I've got a lot of maintenance to catch up on this winter but I usually can ride till mid-December.

Not exactly what you asked but FWIW, this is what I went with for front and back on my 2015 bike.  As already stated, any/most aftermarket suspension makes for a huge improvement.

Also, lowering dog bones is an option as well as per OZVFR suggestion.  Last photo is of OEM lowering links next to standard links.

2 hours ago, skipperT said:

I’ll be curious to see if they charged you for and replaced the cap. If not, and it overheats again you have a leg to stand on with the shop. Once the bike is fixed (if they don’t fix it the first time) then you are not responsible for the repairs that DIDNT fix the problem if they mis-diagnosed it. Being calm and not escalating with them over the issue if it comes to that, and speaking with the service manager if you don’t get anywhere with the advisor that youre working with - will go a long way to settling this situation. Not blowing up at them is always the best course of action.

If they refuse to adjust the bill and it’s not fixed the first time, then Obviously this will be a place that doesn’t deserve any more of your money and quite possibly a bad google review. However it’s always best to give them a chance to make it right. 
 

Regarding valve clearances, minimum 1-2 hours to strip the bike, and measure. If you doubt that they did this, politely ask to see the tech’s notes on what the clearances were - if they are not provided and the situation gets uncomfortable, then I would be suspicious that they were even checked. These valve cover gaskets aren’t supposed to have any adhesive in the 1/2 moon area, so you can’t look for the presence of new sealant. You could check for tool marks on the large 14mm Allen wrench cover on the LH side engine case- it might be marked up, signaling that a tool was used to remove it so that the engine could be turned over to line up each cylinder at TDC.

-Skip

Sage advice as usual. 👍

12 minutes ago, knyte said:

Welcome to the forum!  I'm sure looking forward to a ride to/in your neck of the woods.

For the temp discrepancy, it seems likely one of the previous owners installed a BoosterPlug?  It tricks the ECU into thinking it's colder than it is, so the ECU compensates with a richer fuel mixture.  It's a quick n dirty way to "correct" or otherwise modify some fueling complaints about these early-gen bikes.

"Note: The Yamaha MT-09 series is using the same temperature sensor for the fuel injection calculations as for the temperature readout in the dashboard. (Most other brands have separate sensors). This means that your dashboard display will show 20°C / 35°F lower than actual ambient temperature when you install the BoosterPlug."

16C - 20 = -4, so that seems close to spec.

It's a good mod to have!  Looks like it should be behind the left panel.  Easy to find out.

Aha!  That's interesting.  Always something else to learn!

Thanks knyte. 👍

If you have access to a multimeter you can check that the sensors are within specs: -

5.4 - 6.6 kohms at 0 C and 290 - 390 ohms at 80 C

You can immerse the probe part in a container of water to test at those temperatures.

If that tests OK then I'd be looking at your connections within the wiring.  i.e. plug/s all the way home and or electrical contacts within those plugs are clean and free from any corrosion.

Do you have an error number come up on your display when you turn the ignition on?  22 is the air temp error number.

.... better still, here is the diagnostic procedure from the service manual -  good luck and please report your finding.

Pray that it's not #6 !!

1 hour ago, piotrek said:

Job is done. Took the bike out for a half hour ride around the neighborhood today... and I am happy to report that the racket/roughness is gone. Saved a bunch of money, so that's cool. The clutch is a bit grabby now with the stack shuffled and the clutch plates buffed dull.

I picked up guidance on torque and Threadlocker from these sources:

• Threadlocker 272 (red, high temperature), YT video re: Hinson basket kit installation. There are others.
• Bolt torque 12Nm (wet), YT video re: Extreme Creations FZ-09 basket assembly... I went 10 lb-ft.

I did not peen the bolts because the Helicoils made it awkward and I was likely to cause more harm than good. It'll be fine. 😁

The job is pretty straight forward with the right tools. I had most on hand, save for the countersink bit and the 272 Threadlocker. A couple of photos... progress and a finished product. Cushions fit very snug... helps to coat surfaces with oil.

Great job, really neat and thanks for all the info and feedback.

Questions if I may: -

1.  Did you use a drill press for all of the drilling and countersink work or did you do by hand?

2. IYHO do you think blue threadlocker would do the job instead of red or not worth the risk?

3. Specifically what 90 degree countersink did you use?

Cheers and thanks again for the write up 👍

10 hours ago, skipperT said:

Replace the radiator cap before you go any further. Order a Yamaha cap, top up the cooling system, fire the bike up on the side stand, idle 1 minute, shut it off, top off the rad again if it “burbs”, install cap, fire it up again in your driveway and idle untill fan comes on - monitoring the temp. If it rises beyond 220F/110C then you have another issue.

if the cooling system can’t build pressure, it will overheat and boil-over. 
the odds of a water pump drive gear stripping enough to slow the coolant flow, or of debris wearing down the impeller fins - are extremely low. 

The FIRST thing the tech should have done is pressure tested the cap and the cooling system. sounds as if this step was skipped (…)

-Skip

Skip you mention that "if the cooling system can’t build pressure, it will overheat and boil-over." which of course makes sense but that doesn't tie in with the coolant levels being fine as per the shops report back to the OP? i.e. -"...they just called me saying that fluid levels and everything are perfect ...".   Unless it's all going into the reservoir and then being sucked back in when cooled?

It was that statement about the levels being perfect that steered me away from the radiator cap being faulty even though I mentioned it earlier as a possibility.

Happy to be corrected of course.

15 hours ago, Ziggy105 said:

The only way that I know of the water pump not flowing enough coolant would be if the pump impellers were damaged to the point where coolant was not being circulated.

.... or that the thermostat was not open or only partially open.

I have to wonder - how did they check or know that the pump was not pumping enough water at idle? (assuming the bike had been running long enough to be at a nominal operating temperature range)

AFAIK A reasonable test would be to hold the water pump outlet pipe with a bare hand to feel if the temperature was rising or not as the bike was warming up.  Again - the possibility of the thermostat not opening or opening completely?

I'm interested in knowing the outcome.  Hopefully it's not - "we changed both and it's now fixed - end of discussion." 

Hmmm.... I would have thought trying a new thermostat and or radiator cap first to see if that resolved the problem would be the sensible approach before diving straight in for a new water pump?!  Much cheaper and more often than not are the things that cause this kind of problem rather than a water pump.

And assuming the bike is at operating temperature and the shop reports that the water pump is not pumping enough still could mean a thermostat that hasn't opened or not opened enough to allow the required flow rate - IMHO.

Not saying it can't be the water pump of course but much cheaper and quicker to try the other two first - my 2 cents worth.

4 hours ago, skipperT said:

try this: @2and3cylinders bleed your brakes in the normal fashion that you do.

When finished however - connect your bleeder line to the bleed fitting on the R1 front master cylinder. MANUALLY bleed from that fitting 2-4 times using the ole “pull and hold” technique pumping pressure back up several times with the lever and then open and close the bleeder while holding in the old school way, as opposed to using a suction device on that particular bleed fitting. See if that gives you a better lever “feel”. 

I’ve had good luck with this technique on some “hard to bleed” systems to get that last tiny bit of air out that can be problematic. 

@betoney sorry to hear you’ve had varying degrees of satisfaction and irregular feel from your brake system for some time. You could try the same thing I suggested to 2and3 if you still have an aftermarket front master cylinder with a bleed fitting. 

If you’re back to a stock m.cyl in the front then all I could suggest would be to perform a manual bleed in the old school way at each brake caliper after using a bleeding device or just as an experiment on your own (save another trip to the shop). I’d shoot for 3-10 cycles of the pull-pull-pull and hold then open/close technique at each caliper keeping an eye on your fluid level. Sometimes the old manual bleed technique at the end of a flush will make a difference - other times it won’t. 

Yamaha isn’t alone in this - I’ve run into varying amts of inconsistency on ‘Wings over the years as well. Even if you manually bleed them at the end of a flush procedure (as I’ve attempted to describe above) they still need a second quick press/stab at the pedal/lever to get a consistent feel without a tad bit of “sponginess” on that initial application. 

Frustrating. But sometimes it eases the mind to know it’s not just your bike.  Blame the ABS system manufacturer.

HTH,

-Skip

FWIW - Before my last bleed I was experiencing a less than satisfactory front brake feel similar to what has been described - OK but not awe inspiring.  However, the last one I did was a similar technique to what has been described by the skipper and now have a front brake lever that is consistent and much firmer than before.  Now it only needs minimal squeeze to get the brakes actuating compared to 'before' and is consistent with no discernable fade.

I did spend a bit of time on it though to ensure every micro bubble of air was out.  First did the usual suck and top up to get a coarse flush and then took my time to do the pump and bleed, wait, pump and bleed, wait etc.  After several of those I used a cable tie to keep the squeeze on between the bleed cycle.  And when I say wait it was for at least and hour or more every time.  Even waited overnight after the initial process with the cable tie on and repeated the whole pump and bleed process the next day.

Don't know if that was the trick but it was certainly a noticable difference at the lever.  So much so that initially I thought I'd stuffed something up it was so firm.  That was done in August 2022 and still all good to this day.

HTH

P.S. I didn't go out and purposely actuate the ABS on that bleed occasion either even though it has been activated since, both front and back, while on the road.