dazzler24

7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daryl,

Was he Dutch and white...

BTW, It was the battery not the relay. After I charged the old man over night it fired right up.

Question is will it hold enough of a charge for me to ride it until the new power cell gets here.

I can bring along I guess my Lithium Jump pack but...

I know what you're trying to imply Bret with your opening reply, but let's not overthink it and paint all Dutchman with the same white brush eh 🤔

While your bike fired right up I still wouldn't discount the relay, especially since you mentioned arcing noises emanating from it.  My bike would behave just like that too.  Wouldn't crank, then would normally for a week or two, then wouldn't, relay making strange noises so just maybe.....??  Just sayin.

Having said that, I guess at 8 years old the "old man" has had a good innings anyway.

Anyway, enough hijacking of the thread.  The skipper still hasn't got the reply to his original question!

15 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I believe WP was a Dutch company and originally named White Power (yeh, did PC win out?), and was bought by KTM, whose taken off and run with it.

From what I read, the founder's name was Wim Peters (WP) and the springs were white because they were painted at a establishment that made./painted hospital beds which of course used white paint and the distinctive white coloured suspension gained the "handle" of white power.

5 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Well, coincidentally I believe my original OEM battery gave up the ghost today after 8 years (can't complain), I have one more test to run (see if it starts without the starter relay clicking and making serious fritzing noise).

Your battery checks above look good.

Hopefully you've not fallen to the old "starter relay dying and not the battery dying" trick?!

I suspected my battery a little while ago but all the time it was a failing starter relay.

YMMV of course. 🙂

We all know when it's time to move on from whatever we're engaged in in life and motorcycling is no exception.  Sounds like you've enjoyed this part of the journey and have now handed over the reins.

Not everyone experiences the joy of this facet of life and I'm sure you have great memories over the 55 years of riding and look forward now to your grandson's stories.

All the best going forward into the next phase in life.

12 hours ago, skipperT said:

Curious that the shock doesn’t appear when you select our bikes from the drop-downs on the WP website…. Huh. 

-Skip

Not sure what you mean skip but I found mine for the 2015 model albeit for MT-09?  There are later models that get a mention though - Tracer900 etc.

You may have got caught like I did initially and didn't select the street option first?

Hmmm.... this looks familiar.

I think the skipper is asking about this particular brand of suspension products if I'm not mistaken.

I must admit that I'd never heard of them until this post.  After a bit more research the products are sold at one of the more respected suspension shops here in my neck of the woods so that might indicate their quality? 

Apologies to those who are in the know if these are a well known brand and I'm just showing my ignorance in the sphere of suspension products.

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Finally doin it!

Will report back...

Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

Long overdue ride in the country after starter relay issue finally got fixed and front flat tyre recovered itself?  Yes, that last one's a mystery.

BROOLOO Range

KENILWORTH

MONTVILLE

12 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I presume the new relay did the trick nicely. Having it burn up is somewhat unusual for a relatively low mile bike. Maybe your elevated temps and a lot of frequent stop - starts had something to due with it.

A clean bike is usually a happy bike, and gives you the opportunity to give it a close-up inspection that could catch minor issues before they become major warts.

The tire air loss is strange and hopefully was an anomaly.

And why is it a she? Yes, it may be weird to ride a guy for some but I think of my bikes as appliances and not a manifestation of a life form. That way no ill will can be interpreted between us if something goes haywire or breaks.  Plus more than likely a failure is due to improper or inadequate maintenance, misuse or just circumstances (bad luck if one adheres to such reasoning).

It is the Engineer's "Way"...

Yes, new relay is working as advertised and bike cranks as desired now.  Why it died prematurely is one of those mysteries of life.  That's what I'm going with. 🤷‍♂️

Tyre seems to be holding pressure today after being pumped up overnight so can only assume (never good) that the shrader valve hadn't seated properly.  It had been 2 weeks or so that it had been inflated so I could still have a slow leak somewhere.  I can only monitor it now.  Again - 🤷‍♂️

Why a she?  She only gets called a she when she gets temperamental and over the last couple of months she's been a she. 😜😉  Will I be in trouble for saying that?!

Got my new starter relay installed (old one defecated itself) and decided to wash the bike before contemplating a long overdue ride.  She felt very heavy on the steering as I wheeled her outside - flat front tyre!

No obvious punctures so I've pumped it up, sprayed some soapy water around the likely spots but all looks good  and will check again in the morning.🤷‍♂️  Maybe the valve didn't reseat the last time I topped up my tyres. 🤷‍♂️

There's always something to keep you guessing.

Anyway she's all clean again.  And before someone asks, the pressure washer was used on a very low pressure.

Sad face indeed @2and3cylinders.

I've sent them a stern email about my displeasure and I'm sure 😏 I'll get a completely logical reason why us colonials are gouged out of the equation.

Whatever, and moving on....

I would quite like one of these BUT....  not when the freight to the land down-under from the Old Dart is just over 60% of the price of the lift itself.  OUCH!

I also note that freight to the US is only around 28% on top of the list price after conversion.  Why such a discrepancy?

Sadly I'm forced to look at alternatives.

Disappointing to say the least.

8 hours ago, betoney said:

 

The routing on mine is different as well, it does not go down near the steering lock, instead mine is routed through a hole in the frame on the left side -red arrow.   @dazzler24 I believe mine is routed above where yours is with the other cables in the photo, NOT connected to the clamp on the radiator.

 You'd got me worried that I'd stuffed up Brian so I went hunting for the cable routing in the service manual.  I must admit that when I was taking my photos I wondered why the cable didn't follow the others through that access hole and there was that pang of uncertainty. 🤔

Your routing method would shorten your path and may in fact be advantageous considering that you have the risers and the swept handlebars - just like I have!  I might have to re-think my path at the next major service.

I'm sure both cable routing methods work - and clearly they do.  But it does appear that Yamaha have the cable routed via that clamp at the top of the radiator as per the attached in a standard OEM configuration.

At the end of the day, I guess that as long as the cable doesn't get pinched, obstruct movement, affect the clutch operation or impinge on anything important, then it doesn't really matter where it is run.

This is the route that my cable takes on my 2015 model in photos.  Maybe that will help for comparison?

It appears that you may have come around the front of the ignition assembly rather than behind it if that makes sense.

HTH.

Looking from underneath up: -

Note that the cable passes through a little guide that is also part of one of the radiator top clamps: -

Ah yes, I remember posts around those things.  I'll go hunting.  Thanks 2and3.

It looks like my leak is my dashcam power supply.  It's one that you connect directly to the battery and has an ignition sense wire (separate) that turns it on when the key is turned.  I might just connect the sense and input together to a suitable source at the front.  One of my AUX connectors I'm thinking.

Cheers.

EDIT: - Done.

AUX 2 now has my Garmin GPS and my dashcam power supply (with its sense lead) connected.  Current measured is around 1.5 A max.

On 2/10/2024 at 10:33 AM, knyte said:

I just had an order for a 50L top case refunded by Yamaha Sports Plaza because - although the site said they had them in stock - no stock.    So, you may want to check with them first before ordering.

Cycle Parts Nation, Yamaha Sports Plaza, and Babbit's Online all seem to have the same menu system and available stock - they must share stock or otherwise be affiliated with each other.

I think you were right on target when you posted that @knyte!

14 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Electrical gremlins are the hardest often to rectify (pun)!

I hear you!  With mechanical problems at least you can see or hear the likely offender.

On that note and while I've got things under the seat pulled apart, I thought I'd check my 'add on' electrical connections that I've done over the years.  Seems like I've got a leak that I wasn't aware of and would now explain why my voltage had dropped to just under 12v when this whole dance started.

I normally put the bike on my smart tender soon after every ride as a matter of habit which has masked this newly discovered issue.   It was only because I'd left it off for a few weeks that had me initially thinking that my battery was on the way out and subsequently looking in the wrong direction when fault finding.

Which leads me to this question -Are there any switchable points (with ignition switch) under the seat?

11 minutes ago, OZVFR said:

Sorry Dazz, just saw this. 
yes I have the this exact one. LFP14H-BS. 
4 years now and still great. 
Last started the bike in December as I’ve been flat out with work. 
Left for SBK at Phillip Island last Wednesday, started instantly. 

No worries mate.  Thanks for the feedback.  These seem like a solid battery and made in Sydney apparently.

Enjoy the SBK over the next few days. 👍

50 minutes ago, knyte said:

Great troubleshooting!

Sucks that it happened, but at least now you KNOW what the issue is.

Thanks and yes, it's kind of satisfying to be 100% certain after the fog has cleared and then there's a clear path to a fix going forward.

On reflection this has been on the way out for quite a while now as I've had dodgy random, but only very occasional,  no response from the start switch.  I should never have ignored it but at least can be thankful that it finally gave up the ghost completely while I was at home.

Cheers knyte. 👍

5 hours ago, betoney said:

@dazzler24 - Glad you were able to find the issue relatively quickly. 👍🏻

Thanks.  Not before I was convinced it was the battery and then the starter motor though.

It's a good example of the need to be thorough and logical and not be drawn into a gut feeling which could have cost me a whole lot more and ultimately been a waste of time.  Rely on facts only and not what it seems to be.

Cheers

5 hours ago, robzilla said:

Can you replace those individual burnt out contacts from a used starter relay, or does it require a whole new starter?

No is the short answer.  The contacts are attached to the external connections via a riveting method.   I drilled them out just for an exercise really.

The bottom line is that they are a sealed unit and have to be replaced complete.

Thought I'd share what the inside of a burnt contact starter relay looks like.

Looks like I don't need a new battery after all!

Don't fall into my trap.

STOP PRESS - problem identified! 

@skipperT - Wanting to be thorough and rule out all possibilities before buying a new starter motor and getting into a tear down of the bike, I thought I'd use the time proven crow-bar method of bridging the terminals of the starter solenoid to rule that out as a possible problem as per your suggestions.

This pic is out of the service manual -

• First, I tried again with the starter button/switch and got the now familiar solenoid 'thunk' as it activates but still no starter action.  Repeated that a couple of times to be sure it was consistent - it was.
• Ignition off.
• Next, my oldest pair of combination pliers were used to bridge the terminals on the solenoid.
• Amid a shower of sparks (followed immediately by another shower in my drawers) the starter was cranking hard.
• After I cleaned up, I repeated the activity a couple of times with the same result - minus the earlier drawers incident. 😉
• Just to be sure, I tried the starter button again and just got the same thunk but no starter.

So, just goes to show that even while the solenoid sounded fine and was activating, it appears that it must be burnt out at the contacts inside.  This now explains why I was getting the occasional no-start symptom that I've mentioned in other posts and that always puzzled me but wasn't a consistent occurrence so I (foolishly) ignored it - till now.

Thinking I'll get this third party one for $28 delivered (apparently it is compatible with the OEM part 2PP-81940-00).   OEM part is around AU$67 before shipping.

Thanks for your inputs.