dazzler24

Hmmm, you are all not selling me on the Mityvac!

But that's OK, as I've asked for your honest reviews and experiences.

Thanks for the responses and tips. 👍

2 hours ago, bwringer said:

The brass HF pump lasts far longer, and it's only $25.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html?_br_psugg_q=vacuum+pump

We don't have Harbor Freight stores in the land down under, however, thanks for the tip as I found what suspiciously looks like the very same/similar device on the bay of fleas for a miserly $21 AU !

Might be worth giving that one a go, at that price, given the less than glowing responses for a vacuum pump here.

Harbor freight version: -

Fleabay version: -

Thinking of getting a Mityvac to add to the tool chest.

I see that there are a couple of options out there.  Is it worth plumping for the switchable vacuum/pressure version?  It's quite a few more shekels over the vacuum version so....??

Opinions/knowledge from the experienced is most welcome.

37 minutes ago, pilgo said:

I've done the whole ' search ' part on here for information on how to do this mod , I bought one from JK3D about 2 years ago and I can't remember how to fit the bloody thing !! Anyone remember a link to how to do the mod ? I'll carry on searching in the meantime 🤞

Check it out here Pilgo.

No worries, I hope that I haven't steered you wrong but looking through the images in the link above that @Heli ATP posted, it shows one mounted with the case hardware attached as well so....??

Anyway, good luck with a sale.

19 hours ago, pilgo said:

Reminder , this doesn't work if you are using the OEM side cases 👍

Hey pilgo, I'm pretty sure that's the same one I bought several years ago for my 2015 model and mine works with the existing mounting hardware for the OEM side cases?

Yours may be different of course but it sure looks the same? I painted mine BTW.

Here it is mounted .....

11 hours ago, betoney said:

The forecast calls for possible low land snow within a few days so I need to ride when I can, it was high 40's (F) and sunny this morning so I couldn't pass up a riding opportunity.

I got home and decided to give 'Big Red' some love as well, so back out for another ride in the sunshine.

Lovely photos as usual.  👍  I was going to ask the same question about that sprocket cover but the "...waiting for my laziness to pass" does it for me too. 

11 hours ago, Heavy said:

Dress right and it's not that bad.  There are lots of people that regularly deal with colder.  Worse I've dealt with, here, was a couple of -44°C days.  Hydro went out and nothing would start so no generators for power. Lucky for us we were in a place with a wood stove so we were warm. Pain in the ass with no running water though. 

When the power goes out here, I too don't have any running water - but for a different reason.  I live on a block that isn't serviced by town water or sewerage services so rely on water tanks with pumps to deliver our water and a private sewerage system that also requires power to operate.

It is necessary to have a generator in those circumstances but mine is only a portable 3500W inverter so I can start mine by hand if required.  It'll service the essentials so good enough for us .

Maybe the only thing that separates our circumstances, on occasions, is a mere 80 degrees C! 😲😉 

On 1/3/2024 at 7:43 PM, Heavy said:

-36 C !!!!!  🥶  I took a look at the temperature of my freezer and it's 'only' -18 C.

How does anything outside even survive in those kind of temperatures?!  Wow!

Larry, As the 1st owner has done some work on the bike, he/she may have also done an APS adjustment that many of us here have done and that is referenced in this link.

If so, there is a possibility that the APS was not snugged up again on adjustment or that it was on the 'edge' of adjustment.

As I said, this may or may not have been done but the referenced link may help in your diagnosis either way.

Good luck and please let us know your findings.

4 hours ago, betoney said:

The first 12 miles heading North out of Montesano is farmland road with very light to moderate traffic, the next 22 miles up to the dam is endless sweeping curves on perfect pavement with ZERO TRAFFIC, there is nothing out there, very easy to keep it at 75-80mph (or more 👍🏻) and then turn around and ride it again back to the highway!!!  Round trip from the highway to the dam and back to the highway is almost 70 miles of glorious curves.

You're painting a wonderful image in my mind there betony. 😏👍

3 hours ago, OZVFR said:

Bloody hell, I complain here if a winters day gets below 15*C. 

I hear you.  I have a son-in-law from the cold climes that says it's warm at around 20C when I say it's cool to getting cold.  All depends on your perspective from where in the world you live I guess. 😏

On 12/28/2023 at 2:19 PM, pilgo said:

Of course , if I bought a new Tracer 900 GT while I'm there it would come with a new battery........

Sooooooo ready for a newer bike 

22 hours ago, pilgo said:

Bikes now for sale as I got , what I think to be , a cracking deal on a brand new '22 Tracer 9 GT. 

10 hours ago, pilgo said:

$12k total cost. Out the door . On the road.

$12k for a brand new , zero mileage '22 Tracer 9 GT .

 

And yet , I reallllllllly want the GT.......

🤔

Think I'm going to opt for one of the higher capacity batteries (or equivalent) when the time comes, as they will fit - without the foam spacer installed - 2015 version at least.

Normally it would mean a high coolant temperature but that doesn't apply here it would seem?

Maybe you temp sensor has failed or it's a by-product of your flat battery?  I'm only speculating on that though.

22 hours ago, piotrek said:

That is a great data point 👍. Do you recall the cSt@40C spec, or the oil brand/name? The "wt" numbers aren't that telling on their own. Your weight and spring rate would be great too... 😁.

I was hoping that no one would ask me the question about the cSt spec because sadly I didn't ask at the time - I had a bike shop do the job.

But, I did give them info on recommendations that I had found on the interwebs where it was stated that the C leg should be in the range of 11-14cST@40C (2.5-3wt) with the R leg remaining with 19cSt@40 (5wt)

I can remember that I'd gathered that info some time ago and filed it away for my own reference but don't have any links unfortunately.

Not 100% certain of my spring rate but fairly confident that they were 7.8 N/mm (0.8kg/mm) units as I did order them for my weight and riding style at the time (2017).

Speaking of which - 85kgs (~187lbs) kitted out.  Might a bit more now! 😲

HTH.

On 8/19/2023 at 9:06 AM, piotrek said:

Andreani carts are another option, but you might have to experiment with oil weight in the c-leg to get damping to your liking. No big deal really. Andreani bough FBI... so they are somewhat local now. You could call them up.

I have the Andreani kit (Model 105/Y07) installed in my 2015 and while they were a vast improvement over the OEM stock I found there was a further improvement (for my weight and riding style) when I changed to 2.5wt in the compression leg while leaving the rebound with 5wt.   As always - YMMV.

12 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

It may be a FI form of "vapor lock".

Before your next ride grab a spare ignition key and have it in the fuel cap and try to simulate the issue.  If and when it happens, open the fuel cap and determine if the issue clears relatively quickly. - OK but will have to try and simulate this on the side of the road and not in traffic.

I think it may be a temperature sensor going off or a combo of them.

Did you turn off the fuel cut and AIS functions (and remove and plate off the later feature) with your ECU flash? - Injector cut off was applied but AIS was left on as I had the stock pipe at the time, however, I have removed the AIS hardware and installed block off plates.  I assume that does the same thing i.e AIS now removed?

Also, blow-by in high temps can sometimes be excessive which can foul the filter and TB. 

TB sync and valve lash are not as likely if the issue is not and issue when starting and running hot but not excessively so but not shutting down then restarting. - 👍

Fuel over-richness due to a temp sensor not leanness is suspected.

An ignition advance delay or retard due to a intake temp sensor may be involved. 

Being a 15 (and 16), have you checked for trouble codes? Does the Shop Manual troubleshooting guide shed any light on the problem? - I haven't as yet but would have thought an error code would have been thrown?  But will check in the diags anyway.

GL Mate and keep us in the loop.  - will do.

High of 35 here today, F not C... 🥶

Thanks 2 + 3.  As usual, you are full of useful and well thought through advice.  Check my replies inside the quote above.

Cheers.

The first two on your list and the valve checks were on my mind as possibilities as well.  It'll be interesting to see what you find.👍

The temperatures are climbing here again at this time of the year (35C+) and on my last two runs I've noticed an undesirable issue that's crept in to harsh my riding buzz.

What has been happening is that after stopping at e.g. controlled road works where the delay is extended for a few minutes I tend to shut the bike off with the key before the fan kicks in and/or I roast from the radiated heat.

When it's time to go I key on and wait for all the 'stuff' - pump, electrics etc to settle before hitting the starter.

The bike will start but suddenly I've got a 'lumpy' cam installed and the bike kind of 'gallops' at idle and has stalled a few times requiring a restart where I've got to twist the wrist slightly to keep the revs up until I can get moving.  Not a big deal but hasn't happened before and has been repeatable so I thought I'd ask the brains trust if there is anything sinister I should be looking out for.

I should note that the bike starts and runs fine from cold.  If I've been off the bike for a bit somewhere and restart after say 10mins or so the 'galloping' is detectable but settles soon after and all is good.

I'm getting close to a service so it may just be that she needs a TB sync?

This thread may not be exactly what you asked but it might point you in the right direction.

53 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

One of the Amazon reviewers used an analogy of the oiler being equivalent to a syringe.  That it must be filled from the bottom up with no air trapped, otherwise it would leak out without being pressurized.

Is that entirely correct?

Yet in the video it didn't seem like it was filled to the very brim; and the is no "bleed off" port.

I guess I'll find out eventually. 😝

 

 

I noticed in the video that it wasn't being filled to the top every time but that's not how I've done it since installing it a couple of years ago.

So, fill to the top every time and wind out to the point where the holes at the bottom aren't exposed to the air as the oil level drops as you wind - think bleeding your brakes and it's a doddle.

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 Good video how-to filling this oiler.

Just got one but too late for this season.

https://www.amazon.com/GIDIBI-Motorcycle-Lubrication-Grease-Universal/dp/B07KK6DP5B/ref=pd_sbs_sccl_6_5/146-0294463-8111965?pd_rd_w=AWKDs&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd9455ba-de47-4388-abd2-446637a34f4d&pf_rd_p=cd9455ba-de47-4388-abd2-446637a34f4d&pf_rd_r=G3919SWJJA3BBTA1AMV9&pd_rd_wg=97QMO&pd_rd_r=87ebc98e-7158-4180-a92e-2f657b435802&pd_rd_i=B07KK6DP5B&th=1

Yes that's the way it's done as a video description - even though the words on the screen at the beginning say -"First you must twist to the top.....".  However, and as can be seen, the body is screwed down to the bottom of its travel first thus exposing the inner oil reservoir.

Anyway, otherwise all good.  Hope you like your new oiler 2 and 3.  🙂

10 hours ago, Bryklo said:

Found out the title has a lien on it.  Sounds like a nightmare to deal with remotely 🧐

Hmmm,  might be the reason it's been advertised so cheap eh?

FWIW - that sounds just like my 2015 at idle. i.e. perfectly normal - at least in that recording of the sound.

7 hours ago, jcarlson9 said:

Can't get the damn photos straight.

Yea, I've had that problem occasionally too.  My cludgy 'fix' is to use the snipping tool (in Windows in my case) on the original photo and that seems to straighten things out when the snip is posted. 🤷‍♂️

Not elegant, but works!