bugie

1 hour ago, Suu Kyi said:

Hi, When you say Sound-bomb Mini, I assume you mean the Denali? If so was it fairly easy to install and are you happy with the result? Louder than stock? Different tone? Etc.............Thanks.

Yes I was referring to the Denali Soundbomb mini. It's super easy to install (approx 2 mins). Literally, just requires you to unscrew the OEM horn, unplug the 2 wires, replug the wires into the Denali and screw the horn on the bracket.

In terms of volume I would say it is NOT significantly louder than the OEM one but is much deeper so it means other road users hear it a lot better. Cars wouldn't bat an eyelid when I used to beep the horn but always turn to look with the Denali

9 hours ago, Coop said:

How is the best way to get power to the front of the bike?  The plan is to put my relay under seat and run wires to the front for a horn upgrade.  

Not sure if you've already settled on a horn but If you go with the sound bomb mini it is a straight swap without requiring any wiring changes. 

I got 5k km on the front and rear still looked like it had a good few k left in it. I also never had that issue previously so was rather surprised

Has anyone found that their front tyre wore considerably faster than the rear? My front hit the wear bars when the rear had just under about 30-40% left?

You can add the GT Luggage to that. I have even managed to bend the key in my pocket

Did a test ride with my ear plugs in and the exhaust is just about bearable so i'll be keeping it in for the time being. I live on a small island which is under 50km long and even less wide so rarely ride longer than 45 mins straight. I think for mainland overland trips i'll need to reinstall the baffle though

I find the Tracer quickshift is very abrupt in 2nd but smooths out to the point of being almost unnoticeable between 4th-6th 

This is the inside of the exhaust. The 3 pipes slip over the pipes in the exhaust and the round dish in the middle of the exhaust prevents the exhaust gases from leaving. I am wondering if drilling holes in the dish will create the same effect, or perhaps cutting the remainder of the baffle from exactly behind the round dish would be more beneficial

@BBB - Stole this off the net (the exhaust is not the same as it is the ti but the baffle is the same)

17 hours ago, duhs10 said:

I've heard the Akro was ridiculously loud with the baffle removed as well... that's why I was interested in @bugie's thoughts.

It is abnoxiously loud. I went for a ride without earplugs in and about 15 mins in I was already saying this is too loud. I will try  again with ear plugs to see if it is bearable. I think doing long stretches on the bike with the baffle out wouldn't be fun.

To be honest the difference the baffle makes is outstanding. It is way too quiet with the baffle in (barely noticeable from stock) and way too loud without. I would ideally like to find a way to modify the original baffle to find a happy in between.

Lol, given the difficulty to remove it i don't even know if i'd manage to put it back in on the Akra

Haven't tried it on the road yet. Quickly fired it up in the garage and it is significantly louder than before. Will update you this weekend.

I completed this yesterday so thought i'd share what i did. 

Drill the spot weld with at least a 6mm drill bit (I used a 7mm)

Trying to pry it out with grips just distorts the shape of the baffle tips (even if you use a cloth to prevent the grips scratching the baffle). The baffle joins on to the another pipe at the base so you also can't insert something to anchor it for leverage at the base of the baffle.

I found the easiest technique is to wipe grease on the inside of the exhaust tip so that is reduces surface friction when you start pushing. From the inside of the exhaust you can see the backside of the baffle. Insert a long metal rod into the exhaust and hammer the baffle out obviously making sure that the rod is actually resting against the baffle and not the exhaust inner mesh.

So i'v decided I want to remove the baffle on my Euro4 Akrapovic exhaust. Has anyone else done this on theirs? If so what tools did you use to get the baffle out after drilling through the spot weld?

Thanks,

Chris

16 hours ago, RandyN said:

If they aren't being helpful then maybe take your business elsewhere. Check this one out. https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Eliminator-Yamaha-Tracer-2015-2016/dp/B072XWTL4H/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=tracer+tail+tidy&qid=1563200485&s=automotive&sr=1-4

As far as I can see it looks the same as R&G version (Chinese knockoff?). Probably doesn't come with any extra parts though.

That doesn't fit the GT as the indicators will be too wide. In the RG one, the indicators are mounted above the number plate bracket to make them narrower and still sit exactly in the space between the cases

Bear in mind the side cases extend further back than the indicators so essentially obscure them for people in the next lane to you, or not directly behind you.

On 7/10/2019 at 12:57 PM, krillz said:

A cell phone is a horrible idea for me. I ride where there is no service what so ever. I use a nuvi 2555. I also have gloves that work for devices. I’ve rode in the rain while using it  still works  

Try Garmin Base Camp app on your PC to pre load routes. 

GPS doesn't require cellular data or signal so should work the same on your phone as it does on your nuvi

Looks like the evotech one to me

On 7/3/2019 at 4:15 AM, superfist said:

New Lextec rearsets installed on Saturday!  (And also found a really nice, quiet and picturesque spot in the mountains to relax for a few minutes).  They're really well made and come with the brake light switch bracket included, so there's no loss of street functionality.

I'm weird... and I like my legs a little more folded.  I tended to get some muscle fatigue and knee pain and would often put the toes of my boots on the stock pegs to raise my heals.  I also never had that "thighs locked in" feeling with the FJ-09 and my knees would squeeze at the fake carbon plastic bits with very little other contact.  It's all fixed with these and after riding 250 miles up into the mountains on Sunday, I had less fatigue and knee pain!

Side effect of a much changed position is a LOT more confidence in the feel of the bike under me and when it's leaned over.  Sore thighs and back on Monday, but that will change as the muscle groups are conditioned.

I see the foot peg sits a lot higher than the stock one. On the Tracer you're going to have to watch out because it means that you will loose the feeler before you catch the centre stand on the ground during cornering.

AS @runnerhiker said your symptoms seems extreme since you are saying they have lasted a week after you got off the bike. 

In terms of riding your grip on the handlebars should be tight enough to react but fairly loose, wrists should be straight with elbows and against fairly loose. Elbows should NOT be locked. 

Grip puppies are cheap and great for reducing the vibration coming through the handlebars so it might be a good place to start.

If you are looking for cheap accommodation, look for F1 hotels. They are very budget and designed for travellers. they often have gated car parks so are usually safe for bikes. If you are in the north of France I suggest driving along the coast of normandy and through Bretagne.

It might be worth while verifying the idle speed as it might be on the low side causing it to cut out when releasing the throttle and pulling the clutch in (since this causes the revs to temporarily fall beneath the idle). I had this on a previous bike and increasing the idle solved the issue

3 hours ago, StealthAu said:

With a flash, can traction control be defaulted to off when the bike starts?

Or switched off while moving?

 

traction control can be adjusted with factory ecu whilst moving (throttle just needs to be closed). same goes for driving mode

I just came across this (it's the technical specs of the police version)

Tech Specs - Professional Tracer 900

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Can't you get them fabricated locally?