johnmark101

I have only put 500 miles on the GT so far and the OEM tires seem to be adequate for the intended purpose but not inspiring by any means. I have some reservations about how much grip they provide but have run them into some curves at a somewhat spirited pace. Would like to have a set of the Roadsmart 3 mounted but hate to waste the OEM tires. These are not nearly as lousy as the OEM rubber that came with my Ninja 1000. Share you thought on the D222 if you don't mind.

And the laughs keep coming. The day I bought the bike I also purchased two oil filters and drain bolt washers. I did the first service today and found they gave me the wrong washers....too small to fit over the drain bolt. Good grief. Just reused the original for now. Will not step a foot in that dealership again...…..what a bunch of clowns.

Good to know...….thank you Skip.

Scott......can you still hear this after the initial start up cycle? I turn the key on and hear the usual fuel pump priming etc. But after this there is still an electrical noise that continues.

I agree. This bike hits the sweet spot for a middleweight sport touring machine. I first read about the bike in the spring of 2018 and had been absorbing all the information, reviews and specs on the bike since that time. It is a joy to ride and I plan on hitting the road for a few days in June...….headed for the Appalachian mountain roads. Thanks again to all who offered help and insight!!

Finally got things sorted out today. But not by the local dealer from whom I bought the bike. I went to them first and they told me they were not certain they could even clear the codes. I asked the service writer if they had the OBD four pin connector needed and he could not tell me and did nothing to check with any of his techs. Then he told me he could not help me today anyway and to call back later......good grief. I got back on the bike and headed down the interstate to the next town which also has a Yamaha dealer. When I arrive they took my bike right in, hooked it to the laptop and right away found the codes......there were about seven!! However they could only read and not clear. They said this was because the bike was not registered with Yamaha, something the selling dealer was supposed to do. So I called back to the local dealer who said the person who was supposed to have done this was out to lunch. Ninety minutes later I finally get to talk to this person who said she does not do the registration but gives me the name of the person who does...….who had just left for his lunch hour! Seems the people at my local dealer do not even know who is responsible for what!! So, the tech who had the bike all hooked up and ready to go calls Yamaha, downloads some new software and manages to get it done. Codes cleared, quick shifter working, menu access returned to normal and CEL is no longer illuminated. Bike now seems to be sorted out and all is back to normal. However I still hear a strange electrical buzzing sound coming from the area near the ABS unit when the key is turned on. Thanks to all who offered me help and insight on this issue. As for the bike itself, I could not be more pleased but for the stock seat. Will have to do something about that. My local dealership is a real mess!!

No problem....we are good. 👍

Thanks for the review. Typical of Ivan's work.....he is a perfectionist and in the opinion of many, the best in the business.

Wow.....have mercy. I have owned many bikes over many years and have done all my own work as well without one issue until now. I did make one simple, rookie mistake and am not alone as it has happened to others here. Based on how the battery is designed and the install it was easy to overlook. If you read my description of how it was originally you would see that what the dealer did was an absolute joke and a total cluster full of crass errors by comparison...... unfortunately my one error had worse consequences. Additionally if you had been there during the purchase you would have been disgusted by how callously the transaction was handled. I knew going in of their reputation, but they were the only ones near me with a GT in stock. I am grateful for the members here who are offering to be helpful.

Thanks for the tip. Will give that a try.

Exactly.....which is why I was looking for answers here. Our local dealership is horrible. A real bunch of clowns and they act like you are inconvieniencing them. My purchasing experience was horrible in spite of the good price. Unfortunately I don't have much of a choice but I am thinking about going another dealer about another hour away just to get the codes cleared.

I am assuming that the system denies menu access whenever there is a fault code or CEL. Did you notice any issue with your quick shifter or any electrical buzzing sounds with the key on? I also have these two issues. Hope I am as fortunate as you that clearing the codes puts me back to normal. And thanks for your prompt responses. 👍

A little history.....when I went to adjust the seat height I found the dealer had installed the battery all wrong. Terminals on the left side of the bike. The foam spacer that should be on the left side of the battery and the small electrical terminal that should sit to the right of the battery were both under the battery!!! How ridiculous is this!! Positive cable was folded double along side the battery in order to make connection. So I removed the battery in order to install exactly as shown in the manual diagrams. Unfortunately had the battery on it side, reversing the terminals. Barley touched the negative cable to the battery. Sound at all familiar?? Did it also block your access to the menu??

Thanks for the reply. I am pretty decent at wrenching on bikes but am pretty much in the dark when it comes to the electrical side of things. Feeling pretty gutted as the bike has only 300 miles. Is yours a GT and what year? Hopefully clearing the codes will take care of my woes.

Thanks for the reply. Can't access the menu any longer.....it is as if having the check engine light has me locked out of the menu. Also, according to what I can find in the owners manual, there is no option in the 2019 GT menu to turn the quick shifter on/off. It is supposed to come on with the key and indicate QS on the display, but it now only shows up for a moment is the start up cycle and is then gone.

I had to replace the main 50 amp fuse as well as the ETV fuse due to incorrect batter orientation. Evidently this has happened to a few others here, but as far as I can tell they had no other issues after replacing the fuses. After I replaced the two fuses the bike seemed fine other than the check engine light still being on which evidently only the dealer can clear. But now I noticed the quick shift light is not illuminated and the quick shift does not work. Also I can no longer access the main menu. When the key is on I can hear a high pitch whine coming from somewhere in the vicinity of the ABS pump, near the quick shifter. Looked in the owners manual but find no fuse for the quick shifter. Really disappointing since I have yet to even reach the first oil change. Anyone have a similar experience?? Loving this bike but hating that the electronics seem so delicate. Any help would be appreciated.

Same here. Very interested.

I thought about doing so, but I am the overly cautious type. Yet it seems the bike is fine....other than that stupid light being on which makes me paranoid. Since there is a history of others doing this exact same thing it would be interesting to know how they took care of this. Before replacing the fuses, the bike started once and would barely hold idle at about 800 rpm. After that it would crank but not start on two subsequent tries. As you mentioned it probably threw the code when it actually started on the first attempt.

Also took the bike up the road and back and all seems fine but I am parking it until I am certain the check engine light is just a history code and not possibly an active issue.

Jsjn…..how were you able to clear the check engine light afterward??

Scott, This is exactly what happened. Replaced the 50 amp and the bike would barely start and idle, no response from throttle. Found 7.5 amp fuse for throttle control blown. Replaced it and all is working. Only problem is the check engine light is still on. Disconnected both battery terminals and reconnected but it did not clear. I am guessing this is a history code an not an active problem since the bike appears to but running just fine. How do I clear the check engine light??

I will check that out. I guess if it is the correct fitment, and amperage is the same it should be fine to use one other than from the dealer. I feel pretty stupid for having done this as I have worked on all my bikes for years but never had any sort of electrical issue.....not even a blown fuse. This is how we learn. Thanks again for your help.

Fuel injector fuse is good. Found the location in the owners manual. Will get a replacement for the 50 amp next week and hopefully that will be all I need. Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Yes.....50 amp fuse is burned. Can you tell me where the injector fuse is located? Thanks.

Before you bust my chops, realize I make careless error that anyone could have made. Reinstalling the battery and without realizing it was turned the wrong way I had attached the positive and then touched the negative wire to the terminal. ( Had the battery rotated and even though the terminals were on the same side of the bike this switched them front to back. ) Obviously got a nice spark from the negative terminal. Installed battery correctly and now the bike is dead.....turn the key and nothing. I am hoping it is nothing more than a blown fuse but I don't have the service manual and not sure which or where to check first. Mechanical stuff I do well, electrical stuff is foreign to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would be great. Was planning a ride tomorrow but that won't happen. Just hope I have not cooked anything.....bike is only four days old.