3sum

3 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

Wow!  The kids are going to be beautiful… 😀

Congratulations!  Great garage companion for the Tracer 

This is going to be my play bike.  I've been wanting to get another naked sport bike for a while and I think this will fit the bill nicely!  Now I can't wait for a warm winter day to take it up the N GA mountains for a proper introduction.

20 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Sweet!!!  I love large bore 90 degree water-cooled, wet clutch, frameless, DOHC V-Twins (like your new baby and my VTR1000F). 

It looks new.  What year & exact model.  I'm very jealous!

Can I ask how much your wallet is lighter?

It's almost new.  2018 1200 S model (with factory Ohlins, Brembo Monoblocks, lighter wheels, cornering ABS, and not even 10k on the clock.  I paid $9700 for it.  I wish it had the Termignoni exhaust already on it, but to find an S model was my big thing.  I can add the idiotically expensive exhaust later.  It still sounds pretty good stock, just muted a bit.

I bought my Tracer a mate today.  Don’t know why the second picture is upside down…

Cool.  I plan on leaving here Wednesday and heading up a day earlier than my buddies.  Maybe I'll see ya there.  I have a Black/Silver 2019.

Welcome neighbor!  Well, sort of.  I live south of Atlanta.  Where in NC are you going?  I'll be in Tellico next week.

I agree about wondering on the insurance question. Luckily it doesn’t have something like Ninja in the name so at least that’s going for it. I too looked at a N1K years ago when it came out and no matter what company I called, premiums were outrageous. 

6 hours ago, betoney said:

I hope the Suzuki has better ergonomics than the Ninja, I loved the test ride (the bike and its features were very impressive) but my knees and hips weren't very happy.

Me too.  I did a short demo ride on a N1K last year and liked it, but wondered about the slight-ish lean it has (I have two jacked up elbows that won't straighten anymore).  At least with the Suzuki, it has a true handlebar on it.  But i'm jonesing for a ride on one.

6 hours ago, betoney said:

-For me personally- the IMU has no weight in attracting me to a bike, Ive lived without it successfully thus far so if it comes with it, then fine but I wouldn't purposely chose a bike just because it offers an IMU.

#2 me too.  It's nice, but not a must have for me.  Now that I've lived with a bike with true cruise control (even though I'm fighting an issue with mine currently), I don't want to buy another bike without it.

15 hours ago, micah2074 said:

The center stand is about the only thing I would miss. The other stuff I don’t care that much about…. Except for cruise control. I really want cruise control. 

The GT does have cruise control. 

43 minutes ago, micah2074 said:

This might be my next new bike.

I agree.  I've already begun laying the groundwork with my wife.  Like an idiot, I told her that I'd keep the Tracer for 5 years when I bought it, since it was the first new bike I'd bought in over 10 years.  I usually buy 2-3 year old models but I was ready for something new and the Tracer ticked all the boxes at the time.

Ok, I've been messing with this off and on for the last couple weeks.  I've adjusted the clutch play at the perch and it hasn't gotten worse, but hasn't gotten better either.  It still holds for about 10-15 seconds the first time I engage the cruise and then each subsequent attempt will disengage after a couple seconds.

I was doing some Googling today and this seems to be an issue with other Yamahas.  I've read on both the MT10 board and Super Ten board that other bikes have had this issue.

As much as I love my Tracer, I must admit this new Suzuki coming out has me very intrigued. That great K5 engine and *36* litre sidecases. 

The TFT dash looks better than the Tracer's.  The price looks quite agreeable, too.

More info at: https://suzukicycles.com/street/2022/gsx-s1000gt-plus

14 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

9000mi on the stock chain and no issues found so far. 

Just wait. 😂 

On 8/1/2019 at 8:35 AM, roadrash83 said:

You should not have any problem. I have the Yamaha luggage rack ( I think it looks better than the Givi ) on my 900GT with the Givi Monokey topcase mounting kit and a Givi top case.

Finally, the search function gave me exactly what I was looking for.  I have the OEM rack as well and want to add a smaller Givi topcase.  I've researched the lovely internet without success as to what adapter to get to add to my Yamaha rack. I'd like to get one of smaller Trekker cases since they are flat on top but those are some proud prices.  What adapter plate did you go with @roadrash83??

3 hours ago, betoney said:

 

The brake light switch may or my not be the issue but regardless *in my opinion* it's a crude piece of crap design.  Completely exposed to the elements and road grime and oils, I had mine apart several times due to sticking either on or off.  I replaced it with a hydraulic switch several years ago and have never had another brake light switch issue.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/spiegler-brake-light-switch

Is it the course or fine version? I have no problem spending $20 to change it out.  

7 hours ago, Fleng said:

Then it might not be the clutch switch but one of the two brake switches.

Did you check clearance of the aft brake switch? Maybe adjusted the brake pedal and the switch is now too close?

Just my 2c.

I haven’t adjusted either brake switch but I guess it would be prudent to check them at least. Thanks. 

2 hours ago, vincep said:

2019 and 18k miles.  I occasionally have to push the clutch lever outwards to its full travel to get the CC to engage.  I put it down to having the clutch adjusted pretty loose.  That's how I like it.

I actually did do that while going down the road, pushing it out and holding it there.  I attributed that to possibly why it would hold longer, but even while I held it pushed out, it still disengaged.  

Between the raindrops, I took the bike out for a test after realigning the rear wheel with my replacement Motion Pro alignment tool and spinning the knurled wheel for the clutch cable a bit.  While the cruise would hold for about 5-10 seconds this time, it still disengaged each time I set it.

I'm at a loss.

26 minutes ago, Fleng said:

In the end, it was not the switch, but the cable. After 17000 km it was a bit loose. Not much, but the clutch handle had now some play and actuated the switch at every bump in the road. Not something you look at all the time.

Tightened the cable with the knurled knob at the handle a bit more, and all worked again as advertised.

I have almost 17,000 miles on mine so I just tried that.  I'll report back after I can take it for a quick spin between the rain here.  

I'm still wondering why the bike has a feeling of it "dragging" a bit under throttle since changing out the stock gearing for a -1 on the countershaft sprocket.

13 hours ago, roadrash83 said:

Is there a chance you might have damaged a wheel speed sensor and that is causing your problem? 

I guess there's always that chance, but the CEL hasn't come on and the on/off light for the cruise control is solid and not blinking.  Like I mentioned above, since putting on the -1 tooth up front, it feels like the bike is dragging.  I'm going to remove the front wheel again and reinstall it possibly today.  When I spin the front wheel, it seems as though there's a little bit more resistance from the rotors/pad friction in both sound and feel than I remember from before.

8 hours ago, Fleng said:

Just a heads up.

After the brake switch recall we had this year, I am now suffering of the same symptoms caused by the clutch switch.

Random disengage or unable to engage. Wiggeling the clutch lever solves it temporarely.

Switch will be replaced under warranty (I still have 1 month warranty…).  Maybe I am just unlucky, maybe more of us will get the same failure.

Not that I'm happy to read this, but am somewhat relieved. I just did chain, sprockets, and tires changing and upon my initial ride after all that, mine would disengage each time a couple seconds after activating the cruise control.

6 minutes ago, Deniss said:

Hello 3sum!

Try to check your cluch cable, maybe it is too loose. Or rear brake swich - it can be too tight if you made any adjustments to brake lever. Try to remember what changes and adjustments have you made before this issue started, most probably you will solve the problem! 

I saw what you had posted that I quoted.  I'll check those, but I haven't adjusted anything in the clutch or brake switch.  Thanks.

On 6/27/2021 at 7:01 AM, Deniss said:

I also had problem with ceuise control until yesterday. It wasn’t problem to turn it on, but I couldn’t set speed and if it was succesed, it could disengage by himself after 100m or 2-3km. Tryed to adjust rear brake swich, disassembled and cleaned front brake swich (there is nothing to clean:)). Found some topics in internet that problem can be in sticking front brake swich and allmost ordered new one, but wanted to check everything once again. And I foun a problem: mu cluch cable was too loose and cluch handle didn’t come back to its normal position, so cruise control sensor was in disengaged position almost all the time. 

PS  all swiches has two clicks - first for cruise disengaging, second for brake light or to say to ECU that cluch disengaged. 
 

PPS  sorry for my english, but in my opinion this is helpfull info

So I just took mine for a ride yesterday after changing the chain and both sprockets (I also changed both tires too).  My cruise control did the exact same thing.  The first time I set it it held for about 5 seconds or so and then disengaged itself.  I set it again about 4-5 more times and each time it would disengage about 1-2 seconds after that.  After I reached my destination, the bike sat for about 2 1/2 hours.  On the way home, I tried again and it again held for about 5 seconds and disengaged.  I tried one more time and it disengaged after 1-2 seconds.

I can't figure out what has caused this.  I will say that I went down one tooth on the countershaft sprocket and immediately upon riding away from the house, felt like the bike was "dragging" (for lack of a better word) under acceleration. I can't imagine that going down one tooth would do this because I've done it on a bunch of bikes before and never had this feeling.

Thanks. I started to put some heat on it but gave it another shot and that’s when it released. I’ll definitely be changing the nut on the next change. 

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Looks great.  It's SO important not to over flair the master link.  Whose sprockets?

I usually go with Sprocket Centers Superlight sprockets, 16 / 47 (+2) with standard length chain  Yes shorter wheel base but not any more wheelie, and 8 like the turn in rate. I've converted to 520 now two times (same on my VTR1OOOF) and still get about equal mileage with the DID ZVM-X though.  Faster spin up can truely be felt, and the added felt torque is great and enhances the RPM ~ internal ratios really well.  No issues with buzziness either and might about the same too.

Thanks. The sprockets are Vortex from Rocky Mtn ATV. the chain is the VX3 that’s so popular. I like going down 1 on the front to get more grunt. 
 

I made sure not to over tighten the pins. I’d do a little at a time on each and made sure each link still moved freely. I just worry I didn’t do enough. 

I put back the OEM Dunlop (blech) that I pulled off shortly after buying the bike. I’ll burn through it and get a set of Angel GT’s that I loved on my Sprint and Tiger.