Bill H

30 MPH in 6th gear ??  😜   why ??  I think that's your problem ,,,,don't mean to be overly critical but if I understand you correctly that's the worst thing you can do is bog it down like that 

On 5/12/2020 at 3:50 PM, foxtrot722 said:

I thought about that, but was worried about bending something or causing a leak, headers are pretty thin tubing, thanks for the tip, 

I had the same sliders and did the same-thing on my fzo7,,,thought about  doing what betony suggested  to but it didn't feel comfortable ,,,I have been looking everywhere for sliders ,,where did you get those ??,,I wonder if the ones for FZ07 would work

On 6/1/2021 at 8:15 AM, NYTracer said:

I didnt compare them side by side but they look the same to me.

just got the shorts ,,look like good quality,,will install this weekend

any problems with the Cruise C. ?

8 hours ago, wordsmith said:

This may help - from a more recent post on the same fiddly subject:

I haven't seen the 2021 model so don't have good image of the switchgear.   However, psyco's post #9 above gives a good enough impression.   The layout on my 2020 SP was rather different (no c.c. for one thing), but it too was easy to mis-use the horn button by mistaking it for the indicator button located next-door.   To make the indicator button more 'feelable' I took one of the so-called furniture-protectors/bumpers - a tiny silicone dome of 11mm diameter - scraped off the adhesive, and fixed it to the sliding indicator button with a spot of superglue, securing it while curing overnight with a piece of masking tape.   It made it very much easier then to differentiate the feel of the various adjacent buttons, and worked perfectly for me.   I'll try to find a pic...

LATER EDIT...taken from a previous post on this subject

So as before, I fixed this with cheap and quick trick - I simply took one of those tiny 11mm diameter silicone 'bumpers' ('surface protectors' or whatever), cut a slice off each side vertically to reduce its width, removed the adhesive, and stuck it onto the indicator switch with superglue, securing it to cure with a strip of masking tape.   Et violin - that should help!   Pic below.

 

8 hours ago, wordsmith said:

This may help - from a more recent post on the same fiddly subject:

I haven't seen the 2021 model so don't have good image of the switchgear.   However, psyco's post #9 above gives a good enough impression.   The layout on my 2020 SP was rather different (no c.c. for one thing), but it too was easy to mis-use the horn button by mistaking it for the indicator button located next-door.   To make the indicator button more 'feelable' I took one of the so-called furniture-protectors/bumpers - a tiny silicone dome of 11mm diameter - scraped off the adhesive, and fixed it to the sliding indicator button with a spot of superglue, securing it while curing overnight with a piece of masking tape.   It made it very much easier then to differentiate the feel of the various adjacent buttons, and worked perfectly for me.   I'll try to find a pic...

LATER EDIT...taken from a previous post on this subject

So as before, I fixed this with cheap and quick trick - I simply took one of those tiny 11mm diameter silicone 'bumpers' ('surface protectors' or whatever), cut a slice off each side vertically to reduce its width, removed the adhesive, and stuck it onto the indicator switch with superglue, securing it to cure with a strip of masking tape.   Et violin - that should help!   Pic below.

ha I love it ,,is it still stuck ? this mt09 layout is bout the same as my old fz07,,,,the horn may as well been on the rear fender,,,,impossible to  find in a hurry,,

the Tracer horn is below the T S,,but still just as annoying for me anyway 

thanks for taking the time,,I will send you a pic after I get it done 

On 7/16/2017 at 3:20 AM, wordsmith said:

DIY easier-to-locate button on indicator switch.
 

I like the sound of this ,,,had no idea something like this was even available ,,,I hit horn when I want T S and visa versa ,,can you provide a link

thanks 

On 5/31/2019 at 12:28 AM, bugie said:

The MT-09 doesn't have hard panniers so tail tidies will be too wide for the GT.

Be careful when buying tail tidies for the GT as they often don't bother factoring in the panniers. Evotech had this and in an email they told me they should fit even though i clearly demonstrated to them that they won't by providing measurements. They now carry a disclaimer saying they won't fit with hard luggage but still list them as compatible with the GT. Go figure??!!! R&G racing are the only ones i saw that actually have a pic with the tail tidy and panniers so they are the only ones i would trust at this stage.

Just wanted to say thanks for this post and good info ,👍,I was just about to order one from Evotech ,,

1 minute ago, NYTracer said:

I got the standard length, they are a very good upgrade imo, at least for me and my embarrassingly small hands, the clutch works just fine with the cc. 

As long as you can crab levers and throttle right?,,thanks for replying ,,one ?? are they same size as stock ..

On 5/19/2021 at 9:50 PM, maximNikenGT said:

I went ahead and installed Grip Puppies and went for an hour test ride. My hands were fine and nowhere near as numb/buzzy as before 😆. My grip comfort level went up as a result of the larger diameter grips e.g. less curvature of my hands on the handlebars. 

Only potential downsides are:

a. The Grip Puppies do reduce the amount of heat coming through by about 1/3 - however the Niken GT has multiple heat level settings, so all I need to do is increase my intensity levels for the grip warmers on the bike to compensate. 

b. The larger diameter grip, while more comfortable for me, does shorten the amount of distance the clutch bar can travel. As a result, I would intermittently not be able to get out of Neutral at a dead stop because I had to consciously pull the clutch lever all the way down to the Grip Puppies in order for the gear shifter lockout to disengage. I may be able to adjust my clutch lever settings to compensate for the wider grips. Will see tomorrow. 

Almost Iron Butt ready...

yup was gonna suggest that ,,adjust that clutch,,I like mine with minimum travel or almost zero freeplay,,start offs are much smoother and controlled and no over revving anticipating engagement ,,plus easier to wheelie 

On 5/15/2019 at 7:59 PM, texscottyd said:

Hi @gomer - I have the Yamaha FZ-9 Bar ends on my FJ after removing the factory hand guards.   There is a threaded insert that you’ll have to remove from the bars after taking off the guards... it comes out with a big hex drive (12 mm I believe).    Once that insert is removed, the FZ-9 bar ends thread directly into the stock FJ bars.

It’s a nice modification, and I really prefer my bike without the big batwing hand guards.    

AGREED ,,!!!

On 5/24/2021 at 2:34 PM, TomTracer said:

IMO, waste of time if you are not completely anal!

I guess im anal,,,my view glass was  black when I got the bike home from dealer ,didn't smell burned just looked like crap,,I dumped it around 300 miles,,I will dump it again around 1500 depending on how it looks ,after that routine changes ,,oil is cheap, Rotella goes for bout $5 a quart ,, cheap piece of mind

On 4/21/2021 at 6:16 PM, NYTracer said:

Just got the Evotechs delivered today, 10 days shipped from the UK, can’t wait to get them on.

which did you get?,are you liking them ? ,im am bout to order the shortys 

15 minutes ago, duhs10 said:

 

You wrote "1000k" in your reply to the thread which implies 1000 x 1000... usually 1,000 would be represented as 1k. 10,000 = 1k 100,000 = 100k and so on.

I can admit when I'm wrong,,,it was a brain typo,,,thanks 

4 hours ago, micah2074 said:

You've ridden her 1 million miles?

HUH ?? 1000,is a thousand 🧐Einstein

On 4/26/2021 at 7:46 AM, Warchild said:

 

"Finally cleared up..."  🤔  Very unusual.

In fact... I have never heard anything like this before on any modern engine, regardless of brand.

That's unfortunate.  

Same ,,got home from dealer didn't look great so changed it,,changed again at 1000k ,,3rd change it looked good 

On 6/25/2020 at 6:19 PM, smurph said:

So i was looking at the seat and figured I could raise the front a bit more as there's vertical wiggle room between the upper and lower settings where that front tab sits. So.... I grabbed some fender washers and electrical tape and got to work. 3 washers seems to be about the max. There's now no wiggle room up and down and the slope is 3/8" less slope-y 😂.

All original points of contact still make contact. It still seems secure and I think it's a great penny mod. Test rode for half an hour and mucho better. 

 

doesnt do much for us short guys ,hahahah

On 9/8/2020 at 8:31 AM, Gamarth said:

Morning all!

I bought a 2019 Tracer GT back in May of last year and due to some life complications, didn't get to ride it all that much. For the first time yesterday I did my first trip that wasn't just commuting and did about ~250 miles. I've noticed that when i'm at highway speeds, if i'm near a large truck/SUV or an 18 wheeler, that the front end wobbles a decent bit. Not enough to be a tank slapper, but it does make me a decent bit nervous. I understand that the bike is being battered by wind during situations like this, but I don't recall having this issue on my previous bike (07' Suzuki Bandit 1250)

Has anybody else experienced this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

hahah after reading some of these comments good luck ,,wow,,so that was one of the first things i noticed on my 2020,,mine does it do

normal freeway speeds you  dont have to be behind a truck ,,all it takes is some side or head winds for me,when the leaves on the trees arent moving around the bike is fine ,{i use them as a gauge}  just for the hell of it i purposely got in the draft of an 18 wheeler and  it was really bad ,,i mean ya thats to be expected right but  this was a little nerve racking  ,,,,I wanted out so i downshifted to 4th and blew by him only to come flying up alongside a sneaker cop in a  black  unmarked ford,, those guys are hard to spot,,anyway i backed off at 85 mph ,,he tailed me for a bit and that was that ,,i got lucky that day. i had open road ahead and was gonna ride it out for a bit . so  i took off the gaurds cause i dont like the looks of them and they dont seem to serve much purpose ,,but that didnt make a diff,,i cut about 5 inches off screen cause it sucks,,that didnt make a diff and i lowered forks 4mm and that didnt make a difference ,,i think its like someone else said shitty aerodynamics

41 minutes ago, betoney said:

Because I own an FJ, those are the stock axle blocks.

You can see the adjuster bolt in this photo on my aftermarket blocks.

 

haha yes i know that ,,i was referring to Ride Ons blocks on this page ,,so all three stock ones are different,,,,your old ones only locked in the axle on one side  it appears  where as mine are kinda like your aftermarket ones being locked in on both sides , when  i am able to send a photo we can revisit this mystery ,,it will give you something to look forward to .LOL so being as the adjusting bolt serves no purpose other then adjusting chain im sure its fine that not all of the bolt head is sitting against the meat of the block,,but id does make me wonder why its like that

18 minutes ago, Ride On said:

Mine is a one piece molded block as seen behind the bolt head.

interesting ,,I dont have that thinner plate ,,not that its that big a deal i guess ,,less weight right ,,hahah

36 minutes ago, betoney said:

The photo above is stock axle block on the FJ, not sure if they kept the same design on the Tracer.  The other photo a few posts up is an aftermarket block.  Can you take a photo of your axle block? it might help to determine if everything is correct.

Im curious how you know its an FY,,other than the block the only diff i see is the singular notch,,,mine has two .,{notches} top and bottom,,I cant sent a photo at this time but if you were to remove that plate where the adjuster bolt head sits against thats what mine looks like .

On 5/17/2020 at 6:49 AM, groundchuck said:

Hello all, I just picked up this 2020 GT a few weeks ago.  I have 400 miles on it so far and really like it. I sold an ‘18 MT07 for this one because I wanted something more comfortable for my wife to ride 2 up.   I have done a few mods so far but nothing too crazy.  Akra Ti exhaust, 2WDW ECU flash, Custom LED Integrated tail light, TST LED turn signals.   So far I am pretty happy with the bike.  
I will likely look for a fender eliminator at some point.

 

loosing those pumpkins really makes a diff,,,Looks nice,,,I just got rid of my fz07 for this same bike ,,I like the tank pads ,,had em on the 07 ,,I find myself using them alot more on this bike ,,the lower ones anyway,,. so how many miles  as of now? im guessing well past break in ,,notice any vibrations on the upper end of rpms  while hard on gas ? looks nice ,,im gonna go wash mine hahah

On 7/22/2020 at 7:08 PM, Ride On said:

I've found that adjusting the chain with the stock chain adjusters is a real PIA.  By using a feeler gauge stack placed between the adjustment bolt head and it's locknut I can quickly set both sides of the axle to the same displacement.  Fast and easy.  

Its interesting to see the difference in adjusting blocks here ,,mine doesnt look like either one of the photos in this topic.For instance can you tell me the spot where your bolt head is sitting against ,,is that a separate piece or is it molded with the block,,my 2020 does not have that thinner peice and therefor the adjusting bolt head is not making full contact and is actually hanging  outside the block by a third ,,the other side a 1/4

thanks

On 7/24/2020 at 10:06 AM, duckie said:

well, here's something  I just started doing.....I did a chain adjustment and wheel alignment then realized I needed a rear tire.

To avoid going through the process again, I put a length of vinyl tape that runs along the side of the axle slider placed such that the tape edge runs even against the front of the slider where the screw head rest. I did this for both sides.

I then placed a fine mark  on the tape at where the front edge of the adjuster is located. Did this on both sides. 

when I replaced the rear wheel, I just adjusted the axle sliders until the front edge of the axle sliders was at the marks on both tapes. I rechecked the tension and alignment to make sure nothing changed which nothing did. I kept the tape on just as a quick visual check to see if the rear axle has moved.

I need to do a tension adjustment now. So, all I have to do is adjust the chain tension, use a pair of calipers to set  the distance from old mark to the new mark once adjusted, then use them the set the distance on the other side using the old mark. Once set, remark the tape. 

I read on here about someone making their own chain tension gauge by making a mark on a piece of wood then measuring up 35mm, make another mark and then another mark 10mm from that one. which would be 45mm from the first mark. Just place the the first mark at the bottom of the chain, push the chain up to see where the top of the chain is in relation to the 35 and 45 mm marks.

Works great. So, between the tension gauge and the tape next to the axle sliders, chain adjusting just got easier for me.

 

 

Measuring center to center always clears up any confusion for me ,,however i am very confused on what you are explaining ,,

"I put a length of vinyl tape that runs along the side of the axle slider placed such that the tape edge runs even against the front of the slider where the screw head rest.

A picture is worth a 1000k words

On 8/10/2020 at 6:10 AM, KillEmAll4u said:

I ordered these from Evotech from the UK. The clutch grabs normally now from a stand still and the brake adjustment is perfect. I feel it transformed the bike. I didn't really want the folding ones but I think that's all that have in full size unless you want the shorties. If you do order these, use UPS. USPS has been having issues in customs lately with the virus. 

EP Yamaha Tracer 900 ABS Folding Clutch and Brake Lever set 2015+

---

Evotech Performance levers are CNC from billet...

 

Seems all on back order ,,,im curious are these the same length as OEM?

thanks

On 8/15/2020 at 4:37 PM, GTO MIKE said:

Finally got my new levers and installed . perfect fit and look great. Took a whole month to get from France but worth the wait! Very nice .I think they were around $70 dollars with shipping !

MIKE

are you willing to share where you got them?😀