Bill H

On 6/17/2020 at 8:17 AM, 1moreroad said:

Looks like you still have the peg feelers on. Were you dragging those everywhere on the track?

one would think right ,,those thinks scare the crap out of me

2 hours ago, Gt Rider said:

Okay, Sorry about the following rant but I need to blow off some steam.

 

Immediately after the 600 mile service(within blocks of the dealership) I started getting multiple engine and oil error codes. The bike has been back to the dealer 8 times and they tell me it’s just an error for when you kill the bike while accelerating. Now cruise control is throwing errors and the Dealer is not getting back to me about the repair. There are many other issues with the bike but all I get is we’re running a test and we should know something by the end of the day and we will call to update you. BS, I have only received a call to tell me they will call with an update the next day with an update but they DON’T. I Love the way the bike rides but I am not putting up with this BS any longer. It was nice to meet you all but I am getting rid of the bike! 

bought mine a month ago and there was a few times i felt like you,not that i have had any of the issues you are dealing with but there are few of quirks with this bike,,now that the motor has some miles under her and has loosened up and i am understanding the bike better i enjoy it more each day, Im sure there is nothing wrong with your bike if this happened right after the dealer ,,most likely something just needs to re boot .My mt07 abs lite kept flashing after i put a new tire on it,,i would shut it down and restart and it was fine for a while but every now and then it would flash ,the age of computers and bikes.  Not trying to kick a man when hes down but i wont take my bike to a dealer ,,not to say they are all bad ,,i would rather do the work myself,,but at this juncture you dont have much of a  choice .Go get your bike back,  find a new dealer ,,mean time keep riding it ,,you wont regret it

Best

4 minutes ago, HGP61 said:

Mine is a 17 plate Tracer It tells me that on the big yellow registration plate that has to be fitted to the back of the bike. Maybe I should change that to a personalized registration plate to avoid arguments.

HAHA,,, BIG OL SMILE

9 hours ago, Satsteve said:

I'm also new to the Tracer & all the new safety gizmos.  I at first didn't realize I had to turn off TC at a standstill, also had to RTFM to figure out how to do it!

I've found the sweet spot is 6-7K for lifting the front on acceleration only.  In 1st or 2nd I'll accelerate to 6K, momentary blip down to load the fork then throttle open & up it goes; I don't even need WOT.  In TC1 it cuts the power with a small'ish lift.  With no TC I better be covering the rear brake.  With the GF onboard it'll do the same in 3rd.

yeah i had to read manual also ,,i was like ;;;what the hells wrong with this thing,,it would be SOOOOO nice if you could change on the fly.,,I guess im so used to my fz07 ,,clutch up at 20mph and front leaps up,,whats 6-7 k in 2nd on a 900? 50-60 mph ? ,I will give it a go and LUK ,,thanks for the tip.

With the GF onboard it'll do the same in 3rd,,,.I bet she loves that hahah

10 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

1. Yes.  The boosterplug works wonderfully for low speed performance, cleans up the hunting/surging it tends to do when moving about at idle or partial throttle, and increases it's go on sudden throttle roll on from the same.  

2. No.  I measured out first, as the Gearing Commander (gearingcommander.com) shows the total amount of rear wheel movement you'll need so you can figure out if you need a new chain too.  I had the 8.5mm required adjustment (though it was pretty close!) 

3. Absolutely.  Now on a straight pull in first at WOT as it crosses 8k RPM it starts lifting the front - without touching the clutch.  

 

Mine vibrates at 4500-5000 rpm.  Not much below or above, but pretty substantial right there.  The gearing change actually helped there because it got me cruising just outside the "buzzy spot" instead of right in the middle of it.  You're looking at ~+550 rpm at any given speed.

cleans up the hunting/surging it tends to do when moving about at idle or partial throttle, and increases it's go on sudden throttle roll on from the same.   PERFECTLY DESCRIBED !! ,,exactly what my bike does,, ,,all good stuff here ,glad its working out for you,,its always nice when you do a mod and it meets or exceeds expectations ,,believe it or not after 1500 miles im still getting used to bike and all its pros and cons ,,I want to make sure i appreciate the pros while understanding and eliminating the cons ,Thanks so much for the great info ,very helpful

6 hours ago, BBB said:

“Chill out dude”, really? You’ve practically called me a liar, about my own bike, whilst ignoring people who try to give you the facts. And then still insist I’ve got it wrong.

@betoney has patiently explained the naming system variations for you, so I really hope it’s clear now. 

well it dont take much to get your panties in a bunch,,,not sure how you can accuse me of calling you a liar other than a vivid imagination. I guess I could call you a  liar for saying my tracer has  a manufacture plate . Do you see how ridiculous this is .Next time you decide to share your knowledge [or lack of} you should get the facts straight ,,  like hey maybe they dont put that plate on bikes after a certain year or origin . And i never insisted you are wrong,,your little bike has a plate ,,GREAT !!! im saying mine doesnt ,,would it make everything better for you if i didnt call my bike a tracer ,,go change your underwear .and spare me your response,,lifes too short to deal with the likes of you

2 hours ago, BBB said:

People do live in other locations than the US @Bill H. And Yamaha have called my bike “Tracer” since 2015. Why do you doubt me?

Are you trying to make a specific point or just trolling?

yeah thats what I do,,troll so i can engage in a ridiculous argument. My bike is called a Tracer ,,as far i I can tell your bike appears to be an FJ-09,,chill out dude

18 hours ago, BBB said:

Made in 2015. Or more specifically, registered in the time period from April to October in 2015. 

no such plate on the Tracer ,,

18 hours ago, BBB said:

Made in 2015. Or more specifically, registered in the time period from April to October in 2015. 

4 hours ago, Stew said:

Aaaaargh
It sounds more plausible than mine.
I'm too old for all this , why can't people type whole phrases any more.

4 hours ago, Stew said:

Aaaaargh
It sounds more plausible than mine.
I'm too old for all this , why can't people type whole phrases any more.

I agree,,I did it to mess with kilo3 ,,he seems to like them

5 hours ago, duhg said:

WTF You Talkin' 'Bout?

BINGO !!

On 7/23/2020 at 6:08 PM, betoney said:

That is a great suggestion. 👍  I will give that a try tomorrow and see how far off my current adjustment is.

Do you have these adjuster blocks? They are equal dimensions behind the axle for left and right?

the tracer has two notches top and bottom and the block also has notches top and bottom ,,I could see how it would be hard getting low enough to see and line them up,,i transferred the notch so its on top of frame  just in front of the block by making a small scratch line with a utility knife  

On 7/23/2020 at 10:00 AM, KillEmAll4u said:

@gtomike That's exactly what I do. Count the flats making sure I turn an equal number on both sides then double check when everything is tightened up with the alignment tool. I apologize for my screen name. It's my PC gamer name. LOL

dont let yourself get caught up in the P C nonsense ,,no need to apologize especially to someone you dont know

IMO

10 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Wow, that is phucky. Mines the opposite lol. How tight is your chain, think dirt bike tight, so sloppy as hell.

TLDR: Too long, didn't read.

WTFYTB

21 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

How many miles do you have?

because maybe the throttle bodies need to be synced or something's just disconnected if somebody was in there before

plugs could be a problem but likely throttle body may be and the position sensor calibrated lower

That would help vibration too particular but are you running the stock hand grips what screen do you have what tires do you have and what shape are they in what's your chain tension are the sprockets aligned

Are you holding the grips too tight there's always grip puppies and heavier bar-end weights but the flat spot you got to figure out

Brand new ,,1500 miles ,,

vibration is mostly from the foot pegs and up to  gas tank

i dont have a clue what this means,,  ,"" but likely throttle body may be and the position sensor calibrated lower"" but my first thought when i felt it was like the air box was open with no filter  and all that air intake was causing it to kinda shutter ,,it goes away as soon as desired speed is reached,,

suppose i could take back to dealer but im guessing thats a waste of time

1 hour ago, kilo3 said:

Nope, tune realistically does nothing for HP or really any difference above 6k, there's a few ponies in there when paired with an exhaust but nothing a week long fast couldn't yield the same results.
Tune is really for smoothing out the throttle transitions from idle to 5k.
It does help a little in the 4-6k range that the triple is know to have weird vibrations, but not enough to make it go away entirely.

I honestly don't do much riding below 5k anymore, I even have my RPM gauge turn green at 6k so I know I'm where I want to be.  I developed some new vibrations in the 5k range recently when putzing around, but that's due to the crappy clutch basket we'll be replacing this fall. The rubber dampeners don't like clutch ups or a heavy load over time.

I also want to close this with saying I beat the shit out of my bike with frequent visits near the rev limiter daily.
This bike made me a jackass, all done below the border in Mexico if anyone asks.

TLDR: it should be pretty smooth above 6k.

i failed to mention vibration is only on hard acceleration,,it backs off when desired speed is  reached ,,there is no vibration when cruising at ,10 mph to110,,mph,,and no vib on slow roll of throttle ,,only on WOT or hard on the gas

Im happy for you that your bike doesnt have any of this shit and will wheelie no problem , how can the same bike be so different ?  I really want to like this bike but its just not putting a smile on my face

and what the hell is this ? TLDR

6 hours ago, Stew said:

Same here, with one extra step. I rotate the rear wheel a bit , check again, rotate the wheel, check again. Since sometimes you can have a 'tight spot' on a chain.
But keep it simple and just do what @betoney and @BBB have said.

Thanks all for chain info,,looks like by pulling downward i am  running tight .

My fz07 manual said to pull down on chain,,im guessing because it was measured  with side stand down

Thanks again all

34 minutes ago, betoney said:

Contact the guys at 2Wheeldynoworks, they aren't too far from you.  They REALLY know this CP3 motor.

2 Wheel DynoWorks

2 Wheel Dynoworks

 

Address

13209 NE 126th Pl STE 460

Kirkland, WA 98034

Email

2wheeldynoworks@gmail.com

Phone

(425) 269-5332

Business Hours

Tuesday-Saturday: 10:00am to 6:00pm
Sunday-Monday: Closed

Thanks for the info,,yes Nels is only a couple miles from my house,,he did my fz07,,,thanks again

3 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

In stock form, my 2020 had no problem, power wheelies through intersections in first and second. Clutch ups at will.
When I switched to 47T in the back and a tune, I now cover my rear brake out of self preservation.
This is with traction control set to 1.
I've honestly never had traction control step in with TC1 (minus gravel road drifting), for sure with TC2 which I don't use anymore. I also don't hold a wheelie for more than 2-3 seconds YMMV.

WTF !!!,,why wont my bike wheel up,,im not looking to do a stand up wheelie ,,{that would freak me out } i just want to lift front end up a foot or so and ride it out like you said. 1st gear no prob ,,{dont care for those } but thats it ,

so you have a 2020,,before tune was it sluggish till around 7k RPM ?

and on another subject do you have a vibration when going hard through the gears ,mine kicks in at 5 k and the whole bike vibrates or shutters ,,foot pegs,grips and gas tank,,it almost takes the fun out of twisting the throttle

9 hours ago, BBB said:

Same method here. I pick a link near the centre of the two sprockets and find a reference point, normally the pin on the link as it is easy to see and small. I measure its resting position, then push up gently until the chain is resisting me, it doesn’t have to be pushed up hard, and measure again. On my ‘15 plate I look for around 25 to 30mm.

What does this refer to ?  " On my ‘15 plate "

On 6/5/2020 at 9:18 PM, quaxum said:

Hi Guys, would like to do an in depth review of the bagster seats, owed them for about 3 weeks.

TL;DR: Bultex is very soft. So soft that i could feel the seat pan. Couldn't find it comfortable at all.

For reference i'm about 5"7 (174cm) and have a 32" inseam.

They are soft. Much softer than the stock. So soft that i felt that my butt sinks into the seat pan. I never felt comfortable on it at all. i kept fidgeting to find a right spot. I just couldn't.

Low seat on the Bultex eliminates the sloping issue. The high was neither here nor there. I just couldn't have it in the high position at all.

Every morning when i get onto the bike, the initial feel was always good. But after a 5-10min ride. I just kept moving and moving trying to find a right spot to sit in, just never could.

I've sold it and now I'm back to the stock high seat. Although it feels much harder/firmer, it suits my butt much better. And i feel much more at home with the stock seat in the high position.

Finally for the only pro i can think of is that it looks so much nicer on the bike. But the cons outweights the pros.

My 2c. Feel free to hit me up with any questions

do you mind me asking your weight ?,,   5' 7" and 32" inseam ,,wow,,   Im 5 '10" 31 inseam,   seat in lower position and still feel WAY to tall off the ground . I am 165lbs and for me the stock seat has no give,,feels like im sitting on a piece of plywood. sometimes i wonder if yamaha even R&D their bikes with all the goovey  things they do,, now they can add the seat to the list ,,first thing i noticed when i sat on it was the seat pitching me forward  and zero compression . after an hour on some twisty roads and my groin is screaming

7 minutes ago, dpippin said:

2019 Tracer GT here. Easy enough to do a wheelie. However I prefer to keep both wheels on the ground. Save my wheelies for off-road riding on a dirt bike not on the Tracer.

I see so your 2019 bike will wheelie easily ,{which you dont do } but for some reason my 2020 wont .forget the wheelie if it upsets you ,,im trying to figure out why it wont,,

9 hours ago, duhs10 said:

This sounds like the TCS is still active... I know you said you tried it with it the TCS off... but what you are describing is exactly how the bike acts with TCS on.

No it was off but on or off the bike still has a flat spot,,or sluggish,,imo there should be no hesitation at 5-6 K rpm,,thats like right in the sweet spot 

42 minutes ago, betoney said:

Traction control is wheelie control.  when it senses the wheels out of sync, like when one of them slides or is off the ground it cuts power.  Turn traction control off the next time you ride and deliberately try to wheelie.

well just got back and honestly it doesnt make a diff on or off,,and in a way im glad because unless i get into the habit of turning it off every time i ride Im sure as hell not gonna pull over when i feel like randomly lofting the front end..OK my theory is it needs to be re flashed ,,,so humming along 2nd gear around 5-6 k rpms right  in the sweet spot  and hammer throttle ,,there is a slight bog,,flat spot,,like your in b mode.,no way is it gonna lift,,so same thing this time pull in clutch,,rev up to 8-9 grand and pop clutch ,,it feels at first like its gonna come up but then as the rpms drop it bogs just enough to say ,,sorry no wheelie for you .Now i know newer bikes have longer frames but there is a definite  flat spot  that i  think is holding it back

On 7/12/2020 at 4:04 PM, Manxkiwi said:

Sounds like a tough one to diagnose. I would check the wheel alignment next. With string or straight edges, don't trust the swingarm marks and don't think it's necessarily bang on from the factory. Having checked all you have already, that's all I can think of. It will be interesting to see if the problem goes away as soon as you put new tyres on?!

uuhhmmmm,,so how do you check wheel alignment with string or straightedge ,,im a contractor and trying to figure that one out ,,please explain thanks

1 hour ago, betoney said:

Do you have TCS disabled?

yes and no,,i mean did before 1000 mile break in ,,didnt seem to make a dif on or off ,I kinda  forgot about that mode ,,,Im not used to bikes with modes ,,,now with 1600 miles on bike i will try with tcs off,,the prob is i dont set off for a ride thinking today is a wheelie day,,set by default and cant change on the fly its kind of a hassell.Im still geared up from earlier ride,,gonna try right now ,will LYK