Skidood

On 12/1/2021 at 9:20 AM, colorider said:

Mine is one of those out there for sale with very low mileage.  3400 to be exact!  I too went from a FJR to the Tracer (with a step in between on a DL650XT).  I first wanted a GT when they were introduced in 2019, but couldn’t ever find or make a deal on one.  Finally found my bone stock 2020 in mid ‘20 and jumped on it.  Added the necessary creature comforts and was  sold on the bike.  Jump forward a year and I was rapidly reaching the stage where I no longer felt confident or comfortable on 2 wheels.  In September I made a 2100+ mile trip and decided it was time to either give up riding or go to a trike.  First considered a GoldWing conversion, but eventually settled on a Can Am Spyder.  After a little over 1000 miles on it, I’m convinced I made the right decision. 
Bottom line, I don’t think you can go wrong with either the 900 GT or the newer 9 GT.  If interested in how mine is set up, it’s listed in the For Sale section.

Good Luck!

EDIT:  here is a post I made to the Facebook Tracer group with more info on why I made the switch.

“For me, after 60 years on 2 wheels I was at the point where I just didn’t have the self confidence that I once had.  Riding became a lot less fun and more fatiguing.   While once comfortable doing 500, 600 (even some 1,000+) mile days - it seemed my max was suddenly down to a couple hundred miles and I was shot - especially if the weather was particularly hot or cold or windy.  I decided if I was going to continue, I had to make some changes and started looking at conversions.  Price and safety/stability took me to a Can Am Spyder and I was convinced it was the right choice if I wanted to continue riding.  I found a good deal on a used 2020 RTL in another state.  Bought a one way airline ticket and rode it home 800 miles!  Loved it!  Extremely happy with my decision!!
Still have my 2020 Tracer GT 900, but it’s up for sale.  Pristine and one of my favorite bikes over the years, but it was time for me to make the switch.”

Another FJR...funny, I am leaning in the opposite direction from you guys, I'd be open to migrating from the Tracer to the FJR at some point

On 11/25/2021 at 6:57 AM, Torbeach said:

If you run it at idle in first gear on the kickstand you should be ok but if you speed up you will likely get an error code.  What part of MSGA are you? I'm in east Tor but in the Cawthra Lakeshore area most Thursday mornings and you could borrow my cable if needed.

Wow I'm 5 minutes north of Lakeshore/Cawthra. Thx very much but I wont need the cable, not gonna do this. 

I can tell you that rider ergos will be different..  On the Tracer you will be a more upright in the torso than you were on the FJR.  Check out this ergonomics simulator

https://cycle-ergo.com/

Also the noises of the triple are way different than the smooth inline 4 you are used to.  I'm basing this on my 2019.

I probably posted this before but the first thing I added to my GT were these LED strips which are lit whenever the key is on.  I had to reduce the brightness with a 5 watt resistor wired into the circuit.  Otherwise, at night,  I would have been seriously scorching other driver's eyeballs.

For the wiring diagram it might be helpful if we knew what year your FJ is.  Then using the color coding you can identify which wires on the bike to connect to.  Having a voltmeter would be very helpful so you can be sure.

Daytime light wire for both indicators can go to your taillight hot wire.  Signal wires goes to your existing signal wire for each side.  The non-hot wire (ground) for the taillight can serve as your ground for both indicators.. 

On 11/25/2021 at 3:59 PM, OZVFR said:

Great problem solving skills.

That would work very well.

 

And then I was like...BRAAAPPP....😄

13 hours ago, Rick123 said:

I do have adaptor and you know where to find me when you need it. Ps. I run my 2017 on few occasions in second gear pretty fast without any issue.

Hey!  Thank you very much, I will keep that in mind, and I'm sorry I have not been in touch.  🙁

This thread got me paranoid and made me go check chain alignment.  I found the rear wheel aiming just a wee bit to the right.  I suspect this could be because last time I tightened the chain, I didn't do that step in the YouTube videos that tell you to run an allen key between the chain and rear sprocket to put tension on the chain.  Regardless, I won't be doing that in the future, I don't like that idea but will be sure to check alignment in the future.  I used the method that you are using when using that special alignment tool except I don't have the tool.  I have a perfectly straight strip of flat metal that is 13" long and 1/2" wide.  I placed the edge of this against the side of the rear sprocket, a bit below the chain around the upper part of the sprocket,  and the other end of the strip 13" away is just below the chain.  You can plainly see the alignment by looking down thru the links at the strip.

OK thx for the replies.  Yes I want to run it at high speed and yes I have an OBDII reader but I dont have the adaptor.  I think I will forget about this for now. 

All, I just wanted to double check....I want to run the bike on the center stand, in gear...(no, this is not for lubing the chain)  I understand that doing this may trigger a fault light, presumably for ABS.  Can this be turned off afterwards?  Also I will assume it would be a good idea to turn off TC beforehand....

47 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

That is definitely weird, because the 2018+ Tracer's service manual very clearly says 35-45mm.  They were making assumptions based on the earlier bikes' manuals. 

When I brought my Tracer home from the dealer, it had zero slack.  I know this weirdness has been talked about before. I also noticed that the chain gets a lot more slack very quickly when the bike is brand new so I wonder if they do this to compensate (so that people don't unknowingly end up with super-slack chains after 200-300 km)

Or maybe it was just my chain that got slack real quick at the beginning because it was too tight and wore quickly.  I rode it for 200-300 km and had to tighten it up to get back in spec (which for the GT is 1.4 - 1.77 inches) 

$750 to replace a fuel pump?  Wow...how much for the pump itself, did they say?   Is that USD?

On 10/28/2021 at 3:30 PM, Skidood said:

Such a timely thread to discover, literally yesterday I bought a new pair of Joe Rocket boots at a dealer, left on my bike and immediately had major problems shifting.  It was literally all I could do just to get my foot under the shifter.  I looked at the linkage and decided not to alter it, as the end of the shifter (the little piece that sticks out and gets contacted by your foot) would have to be set at about 1.5 inches higher than the level of the foot peg.  Didn't want to do that , especially after considering downshifting.  Returned the boots .  They did seem thicker than average which would help explain this.  Edit:  just spent some time looking at boots online, Joe Rocket boots seem to produce this complaint a lot in the customer reviews.   I may re-visit this later, I currently have short boots.. AlpineStars SMX-1 R   and I'm getting tired of drafts/coldness around the ankles.  But AlpineStars also do a better job of accommodating a wider foot so i will stay with that brand next time I decide to spend some cash.

FWIW......Update...bought a pair of Alpine Stars ...  https://www.chromeburner.com/ca/en/alpinestars-air-plus-v2-goretex-black-xcr-motorcycle-boots?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_shopping_clicks&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_fiLBhDOARIsAF4khR35WbSo2Gj9bWQWynIgMwW0trErLxHRKHrLLYyP0O8oX9wYr1na7MYaAljhEALw_wcB

Adjusted shifter up about 1/2 - 3/4"

Did 330 km yesterday

Pretty comfortable for walking...for MC boots.

Dainese are too narrow for me. 

Found out these boots are not warm while riding in 9 degree C weather at 60-80 MPH

I was told putting a bread bag over your foot (over polyester socks) helps.  Maybe there is enough room in there for thicker socks....but when your feet are squished they get cold anyway due to lack of blood circulation.

13 minutes ago, Warchild said:

I've sunk so much $$$ into my 2020 900 GT that I have to stay married to it for a good few 3+ years, I'm thinking.

But by 2026 or so, the aftermarket should have fully caught up making goodies for this beast here... I could be tempted, maybe....

 

 

 

 

Too funny, I was just looking at those a few days ago (online of course)  TY.

If I decide to sell the Tracer I would go for something like a Concours (except its so heavy and I don't need 1400 cc) or something else that gives a more sport riding position.  I wish the Tracer seat was a bit further downwards in the chassis.  Any suggestions, feel free to share.

5 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Mine are pretty even, but I've heard lots of complaints about uneven heat due to the situation @betoney outlines above.  

Another alternative if you're not opposed to bigger, softer grips, is slapping a pair of Grip Puppies on.  They insulate the heated grips in a sense, which prevents heat loss particularly on the left grip (which already loses heat to the metal bar).  They take a bit longer to heat up obviously (it's a foam layer around your normal grip) but they heat up just as much and tend to be much more evenly heated when they do.  

I checked those out...I would think that putting one on my "hot" grip and leaving the other alone would help. I doubt the different feeling of the grip would bother me.

10 hours ago, betoney said:

That has been a common issue with the factory heated grips, one solution is to remove the left grip and wrap the bar with a few layers of electrical tape, it seems to help even out the heat level with less heat apparently being absorbed into the metal bar.

What level are you using them at?  I have my lo/med/hi set to 3/5/7 - I rarely use med (level 5) unless the ambient temp is near freezing and when I do its only for short periods, they get VERY hot.

Thanks very much..glad to see its not some kind of defect.  Not sure what my settings are at the moment.  The difference in grip heat is quite astounding, if I could assign/estimate numbers to the heat I feel, I'd say 3 on the left and 7 on the right. 

Is it hard to remove and reinstall the left grip in order to wrap the bar with tape?

Anyone else notice that the right-hand grip gets much hotter than the left hand one?  Or is it just my bike?  Today I had them on medium setting and the right one eventually got so hot I had to turn it off and this is at 70 MPH at 10 degrees C

Such a timely thread to discover, literally yesterday I bought a new pair of Joe Rocket boots at a dealer, left on my bike and immediately had major problems shifting.  It was literally all I could do just to get my foot under the shifter.  I looked at the linkage and decided not to alter it, as the end of the shifter (the little piece that sticks out and gets contacted by your foot) would have to be set at about 1.5 inches higher than the level of the foot peg.  Didn't want to do that , especially after considering downshifting.  Returned the boots .  They did seem thicker than average which would help explain this.  Edit:  just spent some time looking at boots online, Joe Rocket boots seem to produce this complaint a lot in the customer reviews.   I may re-visit this later, I currently have short boots.. AlpineStars SMX-1 R   and I'm getting tired of drafts/coldness around the ankles.  But AlpineStars also do a better job of accommodating a wider foot so i will stay with that brand next time I decide to spend some cash.

Interesting..my 2019 Tracer does not have the rattle sound whatsoever.  But its only got 5200 km on it....

1 hour ago, OZVFR said:

They’re stating it’s aimed at people who liked the Honda Deauville, so its for grandpas that also own a Toyota Prius. 

You have the best avatar I've ever seen....

Perhaps I stand corrected.  But a metal grinding sound would freak me out.

Not normal.

2 hours ago, BBB said:

I didn't think that was the reason for the decel pops (but could be wrong of course). I thought it was the AIS (air injection system) which is switched off in the flash, so there is no air mixed in on deceleration and so you get a richer mixture going through the hot exhaust.

I think you could be right.  Here is a list of changes that were done on my flash.  I told the guy I am using the OEM exhaust. 

I had my ECU done just for this reason, although by 2019 Yamaha had managed to tune out a lot of the twerkiness.  One important  aspect of the flash is that the deactivation of the injectors during deceleration becomes a thing of the past.   Meaning that after the flash, (from what I understand) the injectors are still working during deceleration.   Which gives you a wee little bit of popping in the exhaust, which to me sounds great.   Yamaha deactivates the injectors on decel to keep emissions down, I believe. So generally when you are making very small adjustments  up or down to the throttle while riding, it feels more like a carbureted bike.