Skidood

Have you tried cranking with the throttle held fully open?

1 hour ago, Fleng said:

Never waited for the “POST” to end, just turn the key and start. Between keyturn and start, the fuel pump had enough time to do its cycle, I am not that fast 😉.
 

Same.  It only takes a very short period of time for the ECU to boot up.  The display takes a lot longer, no need to wait.  Same applies to industrial controllers with a separate control/display panel.

12 hours ago, Grumpy Goat said:

And another one as of couple minutes ago. 🙂

Can't help asking, why do you have a Canadian flag in your avatar when you're from Texas?  Originally from Canada?

22 hours ago, texscottyd said:

@Skidood - I knew I had posted some final photos... just had to find them.    You can see the fitment and clearances here:

These Rizoma risers have the same offset concept as the factory risers, and I installed mine with the riser rotated to move the bar as far away/forward as possible.   It takes a bit of fiddling to get everything to clear, but nothing major... You'll like it. 

Awesome, thanks so much, and I see that your FJ has the same overlay panel as I do on the Tracer so clearances should be the same.

You mentioned you rotated the bar up a few degrees, did you have to do this to get more clearance or was it something you just wanted to do?

53 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

I felt like removing the tank made the process easier, but certainly it isn’t a requirement.   You can get to the riser bolts on the bottom of the upper triple clamp with a series of long extensions & a swivel socket, so that’s definitely an option.

Yes I saw that they can be accessed from below preferably with a u-joint on your socket...My OEM risers are in the default position (handlebar closer to me) and due to the angle of the risers, I see that rotating them 180 will also bring the handle bar upwards about 5-10 mm..  This is good because I will need that extra space.....if I don't rotate them to the forward position,  the 60 mm Rizoma risers will cause (at full left stop) contact between the tank overlay panel and the bottom of the clutch switch.  Note, I rotated the clutch lever assembly downwards a bit  awhile ago, which brought the switch about 5mm closer to the tank panel.  I will probably go ahead with this .  By the way, I wonder if that cosmetic overlay panel is present on the FJ-09.   If its not present, that means FJ-09 owners have more clearance with the bars at the stops.   

 I have longer than average arms....and I think this is why I could really use this mod.  

18 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Yep!   I did this with 60mm Rizoma risers, and I’ve really liked the lower handlebar setup on my FJ.   I can’t guarantee the same figment for the Tracer GT, since I don’t know if the tank trim and bar clearance are the same… it gets very tight when you get the bars down an extra inch or so.  

Start here, then click though and follow the thread with my original install notes, photos, and feedback:  

-Scott

I read thru it.  Thank you.    I see you recommend removing the fuel tank....ugh....not feeling that ambitious. 🤔

So today on a longer ride, I started feeling the desire to be leaning forward more while keeping my arms straight or close to it..  I have lower back pain and frequently rotate my hips for awhile while riding, keeping my lower back straight or concave vs. curved outwards...kinda like sticking my butt out....more along the lines of a sportbike posture.  The ~ 4 inch standoffs that the handlebar is mounted on, I'm wondering if there are shorter ones available in the aftermarket?  (I know longer ones are).

If it was just sputtering and not spluttering, I would have said clean the throttle bodies .....but since its actually spluttering, I'm drawing a blank. ☺️

4 hours ago, Cornersruns said:

Maybe it was due to lower quality fuel or poorly maintained tanks at fuel stations.  This is going back a few years now as it seems these stories mostly come from the days of carburettors, many years ago.  In these days of extreme litigation I would not be surprised if fuel station owners are very careful about the storage of fuel, even then there a a few cases contaminated fuel in the recent past and the reputation on the culprits was severely damaged.  Fuel stations seem to be regularly updated, to the extent that the storage tanks are removed and replaced, much more frequently than I wold expect.  There must be a reason for the companies to go to such a high cost so frequently.  Not only the cost of the upgrade but also the lost revenue as the stations need to be shut for many weeks.

I've never ridden a carbed bike, not that I am young just that I only started riding about 12 years ago.  I've never had crap or water in the tank on any of my bikes.

Ha.  Over here, there isn't a chance in hell a fuel station could be penalized or held accountable for bad fuel.  Even after going through whatever hardships would be required to prove it.

13 hours ago, Cornersruns said:

38 miles on F-trip after fuel low warning light came on is my record 😰

Did you run out of fuel?

On 8/24/2021 at 4:14 PM, DeltaHotel said:

I drug my feet a bit on the recall for my Tracer GT. I did inquire with the dealer local to me (where I purchased the bike), but they had a six week backlog (just to do the service, not to get the part), and I was planning to relocate at about that time so just decided to wait.  Then after moving, the bike was working fine, I didn't know of any reputable dealers in my (new) area, so I procrastinated. Then it failed :(.  The brake light would intermittently stay on (mostly it was on) and the cruise control failed. I could still hear the faint audible clicks and of course there is nothing to service on this switch (without disassembly), so I reached out to the Yamaha dealer nearest me.  Sadly, they were less than cooperative. They insisted I bring the bike to them (45 min ride each way, with no brake lights) before they would even order the part, and refused to check on the time to source the part, or even how quickly they'd service it once sourced.  I had hoped I could offer my VIN, they'd order the part, and then we could just schedule the service.  So I just ordered the switch from Partzilla ($67) and installed myself.  I hate to spend my own money for a factory recall, but in this case, it was worth it to spend this much and get it done without the hassles and time dealing with my local dealer.

I took my time to ensure it was all done just like the factory install. And just an FYI, none of those ties or plastic clamps need to be cut.  All of them are designed so that you can press a tab where the teeth engage to release them. For that center (wide) tie, it is indeed a bit difficult to reach, but certainly not impossible (small right-angle pic works well).  Same for all the others.  If you take your time, you can remove them without cutting and re-use. 

 

Any chance you have quick access to the part #?

1 hour ago, thewrenchbender said:

 

Day job has been wrenching on things with wings for coming up on 38 years. 

 

Aircraft mechanic?

53 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

I'm wondering if cleaning does more damage than good.

I just liberally spray mine once a tank of gas with Dupont chain lube. 7k miles, still perfect.

I wonder the same thing, a seasoned bike mechanic here says to not clean, just lube.  Another thing, the chain from the factory was very sticky and the lube I use (Motul C2) also leaves the chain very tacky/tarry/sticky, instead of just slippery, so I wonder if that stickiness could be somehow slowly tearing the o-rings apart. Its so sticky it almost feels like roof tar on it.  And I wonder if this "bad batch of chains" from Yamaha is actually an issue with the choice of lube when the chain is manufactured.

I get some heat on the inside of my left ankle, doesn't seem to matter what speed I'm at.  Doesn't bother me too much.

I'm no expert but for some reason I personally don't like the top cases, I use a duffel bag and bungee it down to the rear seat.  Also, the Yamaha side cases do not leak, they are waterproof, just make sure they are not so over-stuffed ,  the latch should pop smoothly closed when closing the latch, just like how it does with nothing inside.  I have stuffed a huge blanket into mine and the latch just does not pop closed properly sometimes unless I re-arrange the blanket and pack it better.  Have a great trip. 

9 hours ago, ZigMerid said:

Not that I can talk about avatars. Mine is merely a photo of a best friend who died much too young... But @Skidood, I tried to zoom in on your avatar and I'm none the wiser. Is it a cultural reference I'm missing? Why is @rlambke19so impressed?

And apropos this topic: if you are such a cool cat, why are you riding a 2019 Tracer rather than a 2021 9GT? 😀

Hahaha.  Well, last November when I saw the 2019 at the dealer, (brand new) I couldn't say no.    And the avatar, that is not me, its just a funny meme I saved from Facebook.

On 7/27/2021 at 9:16 AM, rlambke19 said:

Best avatar that I've seen in a long time @Skidood!

😃

Thank you, it represents my low level of ego (well, as compared to most men on motorcycle forums)  combined with a slightly dorky sense of humour.

FWIW my car is supposed to get 91 and that's what I use.  If I run 87 it is noisier, with less power.  In the cylinder, the speed at which the flame expands (or the speed at which the flame front moves) is directly related to octane as higher octane creates a slower moving flame front.  So with 87, you are creating combustion earlier in the rotation of the crankshaft, thereby increasing pressure seen at the top of the piston,  and keep in mind the flame front has already started while the piston is still moving upwards on the compression stroke.  So while you may not hear a knock, you are closer to one than if running 91.

On 7/25/2021 at 2:15 AM, nick@forceberg.net said:

Sometimes RTFM is valid 🤪

 

Sometimes???

5 hours ago, thewrenchbender said:

Figured out not too long after I got my Tracer GOO GT that the handguards put the airflow straight up my sleeves. This time of year I appreciate it. Early Spring & late fall (and moderate winter) the handguard extensions I mount take care of that little issue.

Imma skinny dude relatively and as others have posted on any bike if leaned forward a loose jacket balloons horribly on my back. So I don’t wear loose jackets…

Bizarre that that the handguards direct air into your sleeves. The cuffs on my gloves don't always do a good job of preventing this, which leads to tghe zipper at the end of my sleeve slowly opening up, until half my fiorearm is exposed, so I just recently ordered new gloves from AliExpress which have BIG cuffs. 

On 7/12/2021 at 7:59 PM, nhchris said:

The oil change kit includes two O rings.  What are they for???

One is for the filler cap, the other is a metal crush washer for the drain plug.

4 hours ago, Kenny A. said:

Ditto. 👍🏻

Same here, I like it too.

Hi, just wondering if anyone has run 94 octane gas and what , if anything, did you notice?

43 minutes ago, SKYFLIX said:

Based on my own troubleshooting with the QS, my thoughts are that it is actually normally closed. Otherwise, how can a QS enabled bike determine if the QS is faulty *after* it is enabled. A Normally Open circuit would be no different than a non-existent (or faulty) one. I have an aftermarket QS on order and I plan on testing this theory once it arrives. This switch supposedly takes less force to activate than the OEM.

The weird thing is, to turn QS on or off, you (apparently)  use the same procedure, hold the shifter up and turn the key.  So I wonder if the ECU is programmed to look for a "shifter up" condition,  and simply set the QS mode to the opposite of what it was already set at. (either on or off)

On 6/28/2021 at 11:21 PM, tedski said:

But when you install the QS for the first time, you have to enable it.  The enabling procedure is to hold the shifter up.  That's why I think it's normally open.  There's probably a logic check in the boot process of the ECU that checks if that circuit is closed (shifter up) and then flips the "QS Installed" bit.

That's a very good point.