2NDCHILDHOOD

23 hours ago, Kenny A. said:

Installed my Pyramid hugger/chainguard. These are supplied painted in all 9 GT colours. Excellent quality and finish. 👍

I stumbled across that hugger online the other day. I liked it but wasn't sure I wanted to buy one. Your pictures just convinced me to give up the cash. I have thought about and like everything you have done on your bike. Hope you don't mind but I am taking notes and have a couple of questions. What models are they and how do you like them:

Seat (looks like stock heated comfort); belly pan; bag rack; mirror extenders? You can send a private message if you like.

Thanks in advance! Your bike looks great!

On 7/6/2022 at 10:32 AM, psyshack said:

As I dive deeper into the realm of possibly buying a new Tracer GT to stable with my 2018 Wing. I hope the Tracer GT brakes aren't weak. While the back brake on the Wing is on the weak side and I'm ok with that as I don't use it much because there linked brake kaka. The fronts are monsters! My Wing didn't respond much to EBC's if at all. The Honda pads were really pretty good and the slipper clutch is the real deal. When on the Wing and blowing by Jesus as a brake marker the slipper clutch and front brakes really do haul the 855 lb. behemoth down really well. DCT's don't do that so well and can lock you out of massive downshifts even in manual mode because there is no slipper function. 

I was very concerned with the front brakes when I first got my 21T9. They did not grab well at all and I had to squeeze the hell out of the lever to get any real stopping power out of them. I thought about bringing it back to the dealer right away but decided to see if it improved with a few miles on it. Sure enough, after about a hundred miles it was grabbing beautifully and stopping on a dime so I believe there is a seating in period. There is an electronic brake control system with 2 settings for the ABS. One offers standard ABS and the other offers slide control. I am a spirited rider who trail brakes in the twisties and the brakes work great. The rear brake is better than the one on the FJR I had but is still what I consider a coaster brake. I don't depend on it for serious stopping power.  I wouldn't let the brakes deter you from buying one.

I bought mine on Revzilla for $130 last year. It went up but is still cheaper than Fortnine. Works great and holds a lot of gear.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/nelson-rigg-sport-touring-tail-bag?sku_id=1565687

4 hours ago, Eagle said:

Thanx for Ukrainian flag 

Be safe. You and your country have my thoughts, prayers and support.

Really liking the matte green. That's the best picture of it I have seen. Wish it had been available here in the States. 😉

On 5/18/2022 at 11:46 AM, KrustyKush said:

I did regular throttle body synch on my 2014 FJR and don’t recall needing to remove the airbox to get at the screws. The Tracer requires airbox removal. This significantly increases the work to do the job, mainly because of how hard it is to access the three 4mm clamp screws. I also am concerned about dirt getting in the TB by pulling off the airbox, also with running the motor during adjustment with the airbox removed.

I spend fair amount of time keeping dirt out of the TB, and while running the motor during adjustment I have used Covid masks to cover the intake holes just in case a fly happen by and get sucked in.  Maybe I worry too much about little, but that’s how I think.

The adjustment screws are easy to get at once the airbox is off. On the FJR I may have used an angled tool, which I have owned for years, because most engines do this work with airbox in place, if memory serves, and at my age 73 it probably does not. 

The airbox on the FJR was under the seat and did not have to be touched to do the throttle bodies.

26 minutes ago, Kenny A. said:

The Denali Sound Bomb Mini,is a 'plug 'n' play' mod. No alterations req. 👍

👌

On 3/9/2022 at 2:45 PM, Kenny A. said:

@jamespz03 Yes, it is the Ermax sports screen,and I am very pleased with it. 👍

@Heli ATP  Thanks. Here goes then, - Ermax sports screen, H+B Engine bars,with brackets and lights fitted, T-Rex Racing lower engine sliders, OEM Comfort front seat, Handguards with DRL's and Flashers,from Motea, Pyramid Plastics Extended Front Fenda and Rear Hugger, Denali Sound Bomb-Mini Horn, Yamaha Footpegs, Rear Master Cyl. guard, Evotech Radiator Guard. Evotech Headlight and Driving Light Protectors.There may be more. 🙂

Was the Denali Sound Bomb a direct replacement on the '21 or did you have to modify anything?

15 hours ago, Grumpy Goat said:

Did you notice any difference after doing these syncs every 4000?

The adjustments were so minor and that was such a smooth running, powerful engine that I have to say no. Again it was just so easy to do that I didn't mind every 4000.

2 hours ago, NikenLee said:

I have the Olmax tyre changer and have used it on Michelin Road 4s (fairly easy) and Pirelli Angel GT A spec tyres for the FJR which are very stiff.

I found that if you press down on the tyre rim using the bead breaker head (rather than G clamps) on the side opposite the duck bill, it is much easier to get the rim up on the head with the tyre lever.

1 hour ago, piotrek said:

I use the EVOX changer, which is basically the same idea as the Olmax. I stick the rim clamp (lubed) on opposite side of the rim (lubed), and use a thin (lubed) tire iron (w/curved tip) to slip the tire (lubed) onto the duck-bill (lubed). Works very well. Did I mention lubed?

It's also nice to work with a changer that is anchored to something.

1 hour ago, TomTracer said:

Rears generally are harder because the circumference is smaller than a front tire. Side walls and bead are stiffer as a result. It's harder to keep both beads in the rim drop down too. Technique improves with practice. I got pretty quick with my HF changer and MOJO bar when I had 4 bikes A Parnes balancer was super. 

I went thru lots of tires because I took at least 2, 3000-4000mi trips on 2 of the bikes and shorter trips on the other 2 most seasons. When I sold 2 bikes a guy opened a shop nearby who would demount, mount and balance a new tire for $30! He'd order what anyone wanted or you could drop ship what you wanted. Had a hell of a business and I got out of doing my own tires.

Then the covid crap shut everything down.

Thanks for the tips! I am going to be changing the front this week. I will use the bead breaker to drop the bead into the center of the rim in a couple of places and then use bead clamps (did not know about these and just ordered 2) to hold it down while I pry it onto the duck head. I think this is going to go a lot smoother thanks to you guys!🙃

I did my synchs on my FJR every 4000 because the TB's were so easy to access. Just had to prop up the tank, remove a brace and pull up the firewall and they were right there. Took about 15 minutes start to finish. I did the first synch on the '21 GT and spent over an hour and a half. I had to remove all of the plastic around the tank along with the fairings (basically every piece of plastic except the front) for the first time. Then unbolted the gas tank and spun it around onto a moving blanket out of the way. The hardest part was removing the air box  which is under the tank. There are 4 hose clamps underneath that where a bitch to access. It was only then that I could get to the throttle bodies. One needed only a slight adjustment. Then I had to put it all back together. I will probably skip the next synch. 

Just used my new Olymax to change the rear tire. This is the first time I have done this myself and there is a learning curve. I think the Battle Axe got it's name from the battle it took to get it off of the rim. I had a hell of a time getting it up on the Butler tire head. The tire was so stiff I couldn't even squeeze it together with large hand clamps. I wound up using a big c-clamp to squeeze it and then used several hand clamps around the tire to hold it. It was still tough to pry it up onto the head. If anyone has any techniques that would make this easier I am all ears.

16mi southwest of Raleigh, NC. 3hrs from the mountains and 2hrs from the ocean. No snow and no direct hits from hurricanes. Year round riding.

Thankfully I have not been in a situation where the cornering ABS has kicked in and I have absolutely no desire to try to make it engage. The only way that is getting tested is if the only option left is to grab a handful of brake in a split second of panic. That being said, I have aggressively accelerated  at the apex of a turn and had the rear wheel loose traction. Before I reacted the slide control engaged in a split second and got the rubber glued back to the road. I stayed on the throttle and powered out of the turn without my boys trying to climb up into my gut. I am pretty sure the ABS would work just fine.

It's my understanding the Tracer used to share the same cases and mounting system with the FJR up until 2021. The bike was totally re-designed in 2021 so I don't know if they would still fit. Can anyone confirm?

7 hours ago, Warchild said:

here are a ton of us moving from the FJR to the Tracer. After 2 decades and 4 generations of FJRs, I made the jump last year. This gorgeous matte blue FJR below was traded in for its smaller version 900 GT below the FJR pic:

I had the 2018 Matte Phantom Blue. That picture brings back some great memories.

I like the red panel on the cases. Don't understand why they only come that way in Europe. I also wish all of the accessories offered on the Yamaha Europe site were offered here. They have about everything you would ever want to put on the bike.

Congratulations! I came to my 2021 after owning an FJR too. I was afraid I would miss the power of the big inline 4 but the lighter CP3 has been just as much fun and easier to muscle around the garage. I trailered it up to Pennsylvania for a 4 day Easter weekend and some spirited riding with my brother-in-law up in the mountains there. He just bought a new FJR after trading in an FZ. I thought I would be left behind but the Tracer kept up with no problem. Enjoy!

1 hour ago, Grumpy Goat said:

Hehehe ... glad I didn't say it although I agree. 😄 I have only heard good testimonies about their effectiveness, mind, but heck it has got to look half decent too ... Functional and fugly does not cut it for me. To each his own, eh?

No harm, no foul. It is not small and streamline but I don't think it is horrible looking either.  I am all about function and I don't care so much about looking cool for others. Guess I don't look at my bike as apparel. Yes, to each their own. 

5 hours ago, betoney said:

I agree with @Grumpy Goat the smaller screen will have smoother airflow.  Remember that screens are a tradeoff, as you introduce screen size and protection from the elements you also introduce turbulence and wind noise up to a point that you have a screen taller than your helmet. 👎

My brother owns a naked bike and we swap bikes often, his has smooth, clean air at any speed.  When we swap bikes we both comment on how much louder it gets with a screen on the bike.  The tradeoff is smooth, air but no rain protection.

One thing you can try that I have found effective on both of my bikes is add spacers between the screen and the mount, this allows a small bit of air behind the screen which can reduce negative pressure and buffeting.  Experiment with different size spacers, mine are 20mm on one bike and 15mm on the other, remember to buy longer mount screws to match the spacer size.  As with anything screen related, my findings and preferences work for me and may be completely unsuitable for you.

54 minutes ago, GeeAndTea said:

I've got a 2018 900 GT, and i've found the MRA Vario screen to be about as good as it gets, but i am also not spending a tonne of cash trying screens.

I've tried no screen, a short screen, and the stock screen. I'm 5ft 11 for reference. My wants for a screen are just low noise. The MRA is acceptable. No screen and a short screen don't seem to do much, and also look strange. The stock screen and whomever designed and approved it can burn for eternity in hell.

I put a 22" Madstad on my 2021 GT (I am 5'-11"). They are well known for reducing negative pressure and buffeting. It's a little funny looking because it has 2 separate low deflectors but it works brilliantly. It comes with it's own mount which can be adjusted for height and angle of attack. So far I have been running it in cool weather so I have it at it's highest position and about a mid position angle. I can still see easily over the top but have an envelope that has no wind at all except for a slight breeze coming around the sides to my chest. I have never had a quieter, smoother ride with great rain protection. It is warming up now and I will be changing the height and angle for some summer cooling. The 2015-2018 model is a 1 piece and I am sure there are riders out there who can give feedback on that one.

https://madstad.com/collections/yamaha/products/yamaha-tracer-9-gt-2021

https://madstad.com/collections/yamaha/products/yamaha-fj-09-2015-up

I am waiting for Ivan to come out with a flash for the 2021+. I have never had a flash done before but he comes highly recommended from what I have read. It will probably add some performance and throttle upgrades  but I would also like the cruise control to work in all gears and speeds. Right now you can only engage it in 4th gear at 32mph+. I haven't contacted him but I imagine he is having a hard time finding a bike to buy for calibrating and testing. According to his website that is what he does to ensure the flash works as promised. I went to the dealer where I bought mine to have the recall done and there wasn't a single Yamaha on the floor. Honda, Kawi and Suzuki were well represented but Mamma Yama was conspicuously missing. My brother-in-law had to travel 300mi. a couple of months ago to purchase the only 2021 FJR he could find.

22 hours ago, kilo3 said:

The three major factors in motorcycle crashes are excessive speed, intoxication, and nightime driving.
It's harder to gleam fault from national statistics.  Personally i avoid the drinking and nighttime driving, 2 outta 3 aint bad lol.

Those are certainly major factors but you also have to consider all of the other ways one can go down without those or another vehicle coming into play.

Last year I came around a sweeping curve at the posted speed of 45mph. There were brush and trees on both sides of the road. A deer ran out in front of me so fast that I instinctively turned the bike to avoid him. In doing so the bike went into the ditch that hugged the edge of the asphalt. The front wheel turned and dug in and I was unceremoniously removed from my seat. Fortunately I managed to miss the trees during my dismount but I did injure my knee. I was lucky the knee was only badly bruised and sprained and did not require surgery. I did have medical insurance so my out of pocket was only about a grand. I still think about how quickly that happened and the fact that that could have been much worse if I had hit a tree at even that modest speed. The medical bills probably would have been astronomical and without insurance I would most likely be in the poor house today.

Just offering up some experience...

Bought a Madstad 22" for my 2021. It comes with a new mounting plate and bracket which is adjustable up and down along with being able to change the angle using quick turn knobs. It also has 2 small wings mounted down low on the sides to prevent that air that sneaks in down low due to the mirror clearance required. HUGE difference! No more wind noise on my helmet unless I want some airflow by lowering it and changing the angle. I still get some airflow on my chest but not much. I can actually listen to music on my Sena without having to turn the volume up all of the way and my ears are not ringing when I get off the bike. I wholeheartedly recommend the system.

https://madstad.com/collections/yamaha/products/yamaha-tracer-9-gt-2021

I had Road Attack 3's on my previous FJR and found them to be the best tire I have ever used. No scrub-in necessary with these and held the road like glue in all conditions. I have a 2021 9GT now with the OEM Battle Axes. They are good tires for OEM but I will put the Conti's after I've gotten my money's worth out of them.

Thinking about moving to Scotland just to get farkles and fast delivery...