Lone Wolf Posted April 15, 2023 Share Posted April 15, 2023 On 5/2/2022 at 8:17 PM, How2 said: thanks for the photo - with this in hand, i was able to locate the needed part Did you locate it on your bike, or find one to buy? Was it actually missing? 1980 Yamaha 850 Triple (sold). Too many bikes to list, FJ-09 is next on my list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 15, 2023 Premium Member Share Posted April 15, 2023 I also use plastic dead blow hammers of different sizes for many things including tapping in wheel and steering head bearings. I do have a bearing removal and seating punch set. I bought inexpensively that works very well wheel bearings are more tricky In a way then steering head bearings because you're working from both sides Requiring more force or pressure and you have a spacer in between You have to keep the hair's breath or more depending on the axle tightening pressure From impinging on the bearings. I also took a long high quality steal round punch about A quarter inch or more, it's not critical What is critical is then grinding it So you have an edge that matches the radius and thickness of the bearing race. Brass punches are good you just have to be careful with them. You don't use them wrong and then you gotta grind them and heat treat them Occasionally.. I'm a hopeless tool-o-holic so keeping track of everything I have or worse, remembering I already have it, is the hardest part except for then trying to find it. 🥴 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
How2 Posted April 21, 2023 Author Share Posted April 21, 2023 Hello I found the dust seal, thanks for the photos BTW taking out the bearings is simple, not complicated or hazardous to the seal areas. Its the install that is tricky as hell, as the bearing races resist drifting in straight. The specialty tools are the way to go. Also for taper bearing kits they come with the stock crown type "canister" seal, which are not designed for taper bearings. However, the supplied seal can be modified to be compatible with the roller bearing to move and feel as it was designed with no adverse steering feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 21, 2023 Premium Member Share Posted April 21, 2023 1 hour ago, How2 said: Hello I found the dust seal, thanks for the photos BTW taking out the bearings is simple, not complicated or hazardous to the seal areas. Its the install that is tricky as hell, as the bearing races resist drifting in straight. The specialty tools are the way to go. Also for taper bearing kits they come with the stock crown type "canister" seal, which are not designed for taper bearings. However, the supplied seal can be modified to be compatible with the roller bearing to move and feel as it was designed with no adverse steering feel. You lost me with the last bit.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 22, 2023 Share Posted April 22, 2023 23 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: You lost me with the last bit.. Ditto me… if the AllBalls steering stem bearing kit came with a seal that’s supposed to be installed in the steering stem before the lower bearing is pressed on - you would be well advised to use it! Same for the Yamaha factory steering stem bearings - I believe the seal is included with the lower bearing/race assy. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 23, 2023 Premium Member Share Posted April 23, 2023 3 hours ago, skipperT said: Ditto me… if the AllBalls steering stem bearing kit came with a seal that’s supposed to be installed in the steering stem before the lower bearing is pressed on - you would be well advised to use it! Same for the Yamaha factory steering stem bearings - I believe the seal is included with the lower bearing/race assy. -Skip Skip what's your opinion between regular ball bearings versus tapered? I find tapered until they're really seated seems stiffer and don't give the feedback compared to The stock balls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZVFR Posted April 23, 2023 Share Posted April 23, 2023 I can’t make any sense of what he’s trying to explain either. Tapered bearings have 100x the surface contact compared to ball. All race bikes and sports bikes (as well as every other road bike) have ball bearings, I don’t think price has anything to do with it as even the most expensive sports bikes have them. The extra surface contact dulls movement and feel. Not that I think the majority of riders could ever tell the difference. Tapered last a lot longer, but need regular adjustments, ball damage easily but normally don’t need any adjustments before replacement. For our crap roads tapered make much more sense. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 26, 2023 Share Posted April 26, 2023 (edited) On 4/22/2023 at 5:48 PM, 2and3cylinders said: Skip what's your opinion between regular ball bearings versus tapered? I find tapered until they're really seated seems stiffer and don't give the feedback compared to The stock balls I would agree with most of your statement there @2and3cylindersbut maybe I’m not a sensitive enough rider to be aware of a lack of feedback from the front due to the the steering bearing type. what I DO like about tapered bearings is you can tighten them down a bit snugger than stock and still maintain good feel (IMHO) and lessen this bike’s tendency for head shake. Oz summed it up quite well too… -Skip Edited April 26, 2023 by skipperT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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