minsis Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 After riding around and the engine is nice and hot my bike will start to have several false neutral shifts when downshifting. Basically it starts from 5th; I shift down to 4th and the bike doesn't click into gear, the gear indicator goes blank and I'm disengaged. At first I started panicking (lol) but even shifting back into 5th and going down yields the same results. After a while I noticed if it starts to do that I just leave the shiftier alone and it'll finally click into the gear after about 2 seconds, from there I can continue to shift and wait 2 seconds for the click. I know there's a recall on this bike but mine it out of the range and and I literally just got it out of the box the day I picked it up from the dealership. I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this, I'm going to call the dealership Monday and see if they know anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted May 17, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 17, 2015 I have not had any false neutral issues, but I would recommend adjusting the shifter position relative to your left boot and see if things get better. Check your oil level also to make sure it is not low. Does the clutch engage smoothly and release at a predictable location? I hope it is just an adjustment. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minsis Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 I may try adjusting the shift, although I'm not sure if that's going to help? I'm able to press the shiftier all the way down when working properly. When its doing the false neutrals its like I can't shift it into gear; I have to back off for about 2-3 seconds and then it'll finally click into gear. Oil level seems good although it might be a little over full, I need to get to better flat ground to be 100% sure. The clutch is another story too. It seems there is a very short period of time where the clutch engages the transmission (this one might be tough to explain). When I pull on the lever after the free play the clutch will engage right away; after pulling it back about less than an inch I'm fully engaged, then there's about another 3 or so inches to go before I even hit the handle bar with the lever. There's this very small window where the clutch is fully engaged to being released. I've popped the clutch so many times because of this; it doesn't seem like there is enough time to let it out smoothly and throttle at the same time. Maybe this is all related? I have to take my bike in on Monday due to the hand guard bolt falling out so I'm going to talk to the tech and see what he says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjsracing Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I think ULEWZ is probably on the right track with the shifter position adjustment. My FJ-09 came from the dealer with the shifter so low that I had to try 2 or 3 times to get it to upshift. I think the mechanic must have been wearing flip flops or sneakers when it was set! Having ridden a few rental bikes recently, I discovered first hand that the shift lever position is the difference between flawless shifting and failed shifts + false neutrals. If you have failed shifts or false neutrals, you may wish to adjust the position to se if that helps. In my experience, raising the lever is what it takes. I prefer a more "flat" position and raised my FJ-09 shift lever almost as far as it can go, to near level with the foot peg. I ride with the peg under my toe joints ( ball of foot), so i have to move my boot forward to be able to get to the shifter. I also adjusted the rear brake up about as far as it can go. 2015 FJ-09, 2016 1290 Super Duke, 2017 150 XC-W (primary ride), 2012 DR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minsis Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Just wanted to thank ULEWZ and mjsracing for the tips. After the weather finally cleared up I went to the bike and adjusted the linkage for the shiftier peg. Once I "closed" it up to almost all the way the shifting was 10 fold better. However, after doing that as you said, mjsracing, the peg came up which I didn't really like the positioning of. So I just pulled the pivot arm off and spun it down 2 teeth to put it back to a lower position. As for the oil its over full (*sigh* the 400 bucks to forced to pay for "prepping" the bike). In any case it was definitely the linkage, but no to sort out the over full oil situation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thruster8999 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Just wanted to thank ULEWZ and mjsracing for the tips. After the weather finally cleared up I went to the bike and adjusted the linkage for the shiftier peg. Once I "closed" it up to almost all the way the shifting was 10 fold better. However, after doing that as you said, mjsracing, the peg came up which I didn't really like the positioning of. So I just pulled the pivot arm off and spun it down 2 teeth to put it back to a lower position. As for the oil its over full (*sigh* the 400 bucks to forced to pay for "prepping" the bike). In any case it was definitely the linkage, but no to sort out the over full oil situation The oil may look over full if its be sitting awhile and cold. Start the bike up let if warm up for a little then turn it off and wait about 3 to 4mins and check the oil level again if its still above the max line then yes its to full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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