mjsracing

Have to agree with Wessie. Another less likely possibility is something loose in the external shift linkage.

Bad News: I got a flat in the OEM rear tire. Good News: I was 0.2 mile from home. and made it safely there. Bad News: tire has a very large hole right in the center. Can't be reliably repaired. Good News: OEM has 5300 miles on it and a few wear bars were touching the road. Good News: I had a Pilot Road 4 ready. Good News: Cycle Gear changed my tire, while I waited. Total time from noticing flat on the way home to new tire mounted and back on bike was 1:15. Good News: Love the PR4. Very nice cornering. I ground the right hand feeler on the test ride without trying.

Got to 5000 miles! Took me 101 days

no idea about other countries, but in the UK, the use of flashing lights on motor vehicles is tightly regulated - flashing headlamps, blues and rear reds for emergency vehicles only, flashing orange for warnings such as wide loads, breakdown trucks or road maintenance vehicles and flashing green for medical practitioners. Private vehicles should only have flashing orange lamps for indicators and hazard warning when stationary. They don't "flash" like a turn signal or emergency vehicle, or strobe light. The frequency is much higher. When viewed straight on, you can't se the flicker. When viewed from an angle you can notice something. Has to do with the way the rods and cones are wired into our brains. Some people can't see the flicker at all.

Skene Designs makes the best accessory lighting I've seen as fas as being noticed. The do have PWM (flicker) specifically designed to catch attention especially when moving across the field of view. Amber front lighting below:

Connect the three wires to the existing turn signal/running lights: Ground, Running Light power, Turn signal power. The two wires go to the LED: Ground, Power.

Very little, if any play. 3500 miles so far.

How many miles? Sounds like you may be describing a lower shock (or linkage) bushing play issue. Not too hard to press out the old bearing and press in a new one, if you like wrenching on your bike. Otherwise, need to get a competent mechanic to address it. Once a suspension bearing starts to go, it usually completely fails (disintegrates) very quickly. If left unaddressed, you could damage your shock, link, or swing arm. Probably more of a cost issue than a safety issue, if not racing. Fix it now.

My 2 cents, ANY oil that is JASO MA certified for wet clutch, with proper viscosity, is fine. Period.

I totally gave up on the stock windscreen and finally dramatically shortened it for summer use. I tried a lot with the stock screen. Dropped 5". large spacers at top then at bottom to change angle. Installed the CalSci. Awesome quit still air. To hot for 105F riding. I crudely hacked off the stock windscreen just below the speedo cluster. Not very pretty. Very comfortable riding in 90-105F so far with full gear. The FJ-09 does not seem to heat the rider. My 200cc dirt bike is hotter to ride than the FJ. Very satisfied with the cut stock windscreen for summer and the CalSci windscreen for cold temperatures below 80F. I have a MadStad screen for winter use on my 690. Love it!

Yamaha filter is black, $13 online, and readily available at your local Yamaha dealer.

I think there is a bit of confusion about the turn signal flash function with these LED conspicuity lights. The light assemblies have 2 wires, + and ground. If you desire them to flash with you turn signals, you will need either: a control box (as illustrated in the instructions but NOT included in my kit) homebrew control circuit. The light assemblies do not have the control box built in. Control of the LED's is more complicated than the front turn signals / running lights as they have 3 wires, + for running, + for turn, and ground. When the turn signals are flashing, the power is applied then removed from the + turn lead by the flasher relay. A functional spec for the control box or circuit is as follows: [span] If power on, light the LED [/span][span] When the turn signal power comes on, leave the LED illuminated until the turn signal turns off. [span] Once the turn signal goes off, extinguish the LED. [span] If the power is on, and the turn signal power has not been on for approximately 4 seconds[/span] re-illuminate the LED This is how the halo lights in a lot of cars operate. Should be able to source the control box somewhere. [/span] [/span]

Great 150 mile loop with 5 others.

Perhaps it is possible to increase the preload on the steering bearings (by "tightening" the nut) such that there is noticeable stiction (static friction) with no concern for bearing or race damage? Clearly too much preload on the bearings is not good.

xpress, What state were you in when a cop stopped you because your tail light was too bright? Was the officer a city, county, state, or federal officer? You may wish to contact the manufacturer to see if its possible to reprogram the tail light. I love my one Off Fab tidy tail, stock tail light and turn signals with P3 conspicuity light on the sides of the license plate. Any setup with 3 spaced lights provides a triangle of light that more easily catches a follower's attention.