skipperT Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Tracer- good points. Yep, unfortunately we are getting into some more technical stuff that needs to be checked. Hobo- what the dealer said is not 100% accurate. You can pull codes with the dealer software and clear them through that port, but you can also monitor data from various sensors and components AND execute what used to be known as DIAG mode. DIAG mode used to be accessible from the meter using a series of button pushes (which is still accessible on our bikes) but CANNOT be used to clear codes or activate components anymore the way you could on all previous FI Yamahas. I can walk you through how to access DIAG mode here, but as mentioned you cannot clear codes or operate components through the meter on our bikes. Only with a laptop. Some of the components you can test easily include firing each spark plug individually (ruling out the crank sensor and some wiring, for example) each injector, monitoring various switches, switching on the fan on some models, etc. A complete list is in the service manual if you're curious. One last thing YOU can check is the crank sensor. Now that you have a DMM unplug the crank sensor (LH front case cover of the engine, follow the wire to the plug.) should be 2 connectors, one which will have 3-4 wires (stator leads, all one color usually yellow or white) in it and the other only 2 wires . Set your DMM to AC volts, and connect your leads across both wires in the 2 pin connector. Doesn't matter which goes where (usually) but switch them and do the test 2x. If you have trouble getting the DMM probes easily into the connector, sometimes a paper clip broken in 2 can be gently pushed into the back of the connector and you can connect your leads to the clip. ALL motorcycles should produce around 1-2 AC volts at cranking speed. You would see results more accurately with a peak reading voltmeter but a regular DMM should show something. -Skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Sorry I forgot that the FJ has a stator/pick up (crankshaft) coil sensor assembly in the LH crankcase cover. Edited above post for clarity. I can't for the life of me make out what wire colors are in that 2 pin connector in the service manual, but they are usually white and black, or gray and black, or gray and white. I can disassemble my bike in the am if you can't follow that post and give you more specifics. Good luck, S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted August 2, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted August 2, 2015 Check to see the earth strap to the engine is not damaged. Easy to diagnose by using a jump lead from the battery negative terminal to the block - this is a common fault on older bikes but as yours has been molested by robbers, it a quick check to make to eliminate the fault. This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobo Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Ok, we may be getting somewhere. I traced the stator/generator wires up from left crankcase cover and it does split right in front of the battery. The wires are gray and black. I tried it several ways (leads only, paper clip, from the back) and there are NO volts being generated. The remaining wires, white, look like they go to the regulator. I looked up the wiring for the generator and it comes as a complete unit. Would I need to replace it? Seems obvious, but at over $200.00 it's worth an ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobo Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Oops, I had the meter on DC instead of AC. It reads 1.7 while cranking. The three white wires read 291 on the 2000k setting. I don't have a manual yet, so not exactly sure what they should be. For other model of yamahas I have seen anywhere from 275 to 500 ohms. I looked back through the diag mode and don't see any fault codes in 62 or 63. I think it's off to the dealer tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Hobo- that's good, it means the crankshaft sensor (pick up cool) side of the stator is ok. Checking the stator is a snap too, you have already done so. But you need to measure each "pair" of wires, resistance is usually around what you saw (200-700 ohms) depending on temperature and windings. What you DON'T want is any continuity to ground from any of those 3 wires. The ecu needs the AC voltage signal for firing the spark plugs. It determines WHEN to fire the plugs based on which cylinder is at DTC. The ecu also needs 12 v from the battery (usually switched) in order to say "spark" to each of the coil pack/spark plugs. And still no codes? I believe the code number is displayed in DIAG number 60, and the number of counts (historic codes) would be in 61. Anywho, yeah unfortunately your bike sounds as if it needs tearing into... You've checked all the simple and some of the complicated stuff on your own, good work. Keep the info flowing. Sorry you didn't have a better outcome. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobo Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 I got my no spark problem figured out. It ended up being the 5VK relay next to the battery box. It was a simple $55 part. At least the ECU was ok. I was so relived to hear it start up after 2 1/2 months of silence. Mow I just have to remember where all the parts go. Thank you to everyone that chimed in to offer advice. This is a great forum for help/information. Happy riding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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