skipperT Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Don't panic. The white paint mark is simply to note which TB has the lowest vacuum when screwed all the way in. If you sync all 3 the same, it will be fine. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bruinfj09guy Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Don't panic. The white paint mark is simply to note which TB has the lowest vacuum when screwed all the way in. If you sync all 3 the same, it will be fine. Skip Thanks, Skip. Is screwing the white one in all the way a good place to start? I went for a spin around a few blocks once I got it all together. I swear there is a gruntier unfiltered noise coming from the engine area now. Maybe I didn't get the breather box on all the way? Could it be anything else? Also, I can't tell if it is running better or worse than before. In other news, it seems like my fuel pump isn't really making any noise when I first turn the key on now. Doing things myself always seems like a better idea before I screw something up. Why I thought it a good idea to go ahead and turn the white screw in the first place, I have no idea. My gauges are also CM. They look like the same as Beberle's. Maybe not the ideal setup for accuracy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bruinfj09guy Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Also, do these screws have anything to do with how rich/lean the mixture is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thespaceman Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 This is a timely thread. I just dropped mine a the dealer yesrerday for a TB sync. It's got 8k miles and was running rough at low to mid rpms. After noticing how much smoother the FJ demo bikes ran vs. mine, I spoke to the Yamaha factory tech at Daytona and he recommended it. I'll post how much it costs if anyone is interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Don't panic. The white paint mark is simply to note which TB has the lowest vacuum when screwed all the way in. If you sync all 3 the same, it will be fine. Skip Thanks, Skip. Is screwing the white one in all the way a good place to start? I went for a spin around a few blocks once I got it all together. I swear there is a gruntier unfiltered noise coming from the engine area now. Maybe I didn't get the breather box on all the way? Could it be anything else? Also, I can't tell if it is running better or worse than before. In other news, it seems like my fuel pump isn't really making any noise when I first turn the key on now. The noise could be the breather line, or maybe one of the caps that cover the vacuum ports is missing. Yamaha says to use the White paint mark as standard, but to check that is IS indeed the lowest vacuum TB when first connecting the gauge. If it is not, then the alternative procedure is to run all 3 sync screws IN (clockwise) until lightly seated, then check the gauge to see which has the lowest vacuum. Count the number of turns so you can set them back. That TB is standard. Then back out all sync screws to where they were, and use the one you just determined to draw the lowest vacuum - as standard. This is the alternative procedure as listed in the manual. I wouldn't sweat the fuel pump noise, it started right? Skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy44 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I used the hoses that came with my Carbtune guages. Used the little clamps from the nipple caps and ran the hoses along the frame on the right side to under the seats. I used irrigation dripper plugs to plug the hoses. worked great. I also had to adjust the TB with white paint because one other TB's screw was at the stops. Runs much better, no surging at low speeds now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bruinfj09guy Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I used the hoses that came with my Carbtune guages. Used the little clamps from the nipple caps and ran the hoses along the frame on the right side to under the seats. I used irrigation dripper plugs to plug the hoses. worked great. I also had to adjust the TB with white paint because one other TB's screw was at the stops. Runs much better, no surging at low speeds now.How did you know where to put the white screw? Again, can I screw it up by having the white screw in a bad spot? I don't want to foul anything up by running rich/lean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy44 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I could not get the vacum on tb #3 high high enough to match 1&2 so I lowered 1&2 to match #3. #1 was the TB with the white paint on mine, but it varies from bike to bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 The sync screws don't effect the mixture enough to be rich or lean - even though it is essentially an "air bleed". The ECU controls that mixture based on programming and sensor feedback. Don't worry about it. The only way to adjust mixture at idle is with a reflash, the Yamaha dealer software, or with an "optimizer" that plugs inline with the O2 sensor and tricks the ECU. At least on US models. -S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 ...As for routing permanent vacuum lines to avoid disassembly, I wonder if that would save any time? If they're out of spec, you'll have to tear it back down to get to the adjusters anyway...I think the point is that you wouldn't have to disassemble everything unless they actually need adjusting. So, I think it would save time a lot of time if they are in sync. '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevelenti Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 I just did mine at 2k. It wasn't too bad. Lots to take apart but pretty manageable and self explanatory. Hardest part was getting the cap off and on cylinder 1 (on the clutch side). Its just a tight space. I used the motion pro tool to adjust. It was slightly off but not too bad. I'm not sure I notice too much of a difference but it is certainly not worse. Seemed to smooth out the vibration at 4500 but not completely sure if its just my imagination. -Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk8nsanta Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 This is a timely thread. I just dropped mine a the dealer yesrerday for a TB sync. It's got 8k miles and was running rough at low to mid rpms. After noticing how much smoother the FJ demo bikes ran vs. mine, I spoke to the Yamaha factory tech at Daytona and he recommended it. I'll post how much it costs if anyone is interested. I'd be curious how much this type of service costs if you don't mind sharing that info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted August 3, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 3, 2016 I just performed this TB sync for the first time at 9400 miles. Why wait so long? It simply was running perfect after the ECU reflash many months ago. Now I know why....the throttle bodies were BARELY off. Just a little tweaking and now it's perfect using the Motion Pro sync device. Personally, I took all the fairing pieces and parts off the night before so I could get to the meat of the process the next day. It all went smoothly and while I was in there I took out the air filter and cleaned it up as it's not due for replacement until 24,000 miles. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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