u53ful1di0t Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 **Moderators, if you can, please resize the images if required. This is my first how-to and I absolutely didn't know how to do so.*** Since I didn't see a how-to guide, and since I discovered a lot of tips and tricks to make this install as easy as possible, behold: THE (UN)OFFICIAL HIGDONION CRASH CAGE/BASH PLATE INSTALL GUIDE! First things first: A big thank you to Kris once again! I ordered this as a Christmas gift to myself, and was hopeful in getting it in time for the holiday. Kris was awesome to work with, as everyone else who had worked with him can confirm. The cage arrived sooner than I anticipated, despite the holidays, shipping, etc. Awesome guy, awesome product, and excellent service! I am very very happy with this, and it is a joy to be able to share my experience! The tools I used were the following: 3/8" Ratchet 3/8" Torque Wrench, Craftsman, up to 85 lb-ft. 3/8" Portable Impact Wrench. Not required, but makes installing the skid plate much quicker and easier. 3/8" Drive 8mm Allen socket for the four motor mounts. A standard length will work, but the longer one I used made things easier. 3/8" Drive 19mm Socket and 19mm wrench for the skid plate nuts and bolts. A tube of blue thread locker A standard car jack, block of wood and piece of cardboard for supporting the motor and preventing it from shifting. Zywiec Beer and good music are optional, but made a cold night of farkling much more enjoyable. The cage came nicely wrapped and packaged, eliminating shipping damage. All hardware required was included in a small plastic bag. I supported the engine using a car jack, a block of wood and cardboard to prevent scratching. Since only one side of the motor mounts is being removed and reinstalled at a time, the motor shifting should be minimal even without using this, but I figured minimizing any kind of movement on the side where the bolts were removed would make re-installation a breeze. Now you're ready to begin! 1. Start by removing the two engine mounting bolts on one side of the engine using the 8mm allen socket and ratchet. The reason I used a socket, and not a regular allen key is that you want to precisely torque down the engine bolts upon installation, requiring a torque wrench (duh). 2. Apply some blue thread locker to one of the supplied, longer 8mm bolts. Notice I have the OEM washer pictured on the bolt. It actually did not fit into the cage, and I ended up not using washers, as they aren't required anyway. Discard the washers, and install the cage and bolts to the bike, hand tightening them. 3. The first side is done! Repeat the same process for the other side. With the engine mount bolts now installed and holding the engine and cage, remove the jack. It is no longer needed. Now, it is time to install the only tricky part: the skid plate. It was tricky only because I was too excited and didn't think it out before hand, and just jumped into it. (Also, Zywiec) The easiest way to tackle this is to start with the tightest bolt and nut, which is the one directly next to the muffler, and below the O2 sensor. Otherwise, the fit there is so tight it will be impossible/extremely frustrating trying to manouver in the very tight space if you installed the bolts on the left side first. Although thread locker is not required because the nuts have vinyl thread locker built in, I used it anyway due to the nuts' close proximity of the hot exhaust, making me concerned the vinyl may eventually melt away. To further prevent this, I installed the bolt from the inside out, with the nut on the outside, giving it two extra steel layers of heat protection. Plus, if one ever came loose, it is much easier to see the missing nut if it is on the outside. At this point, everything is still finger tight on the skid plate. Install the rest of the nuts, once again still finger tight. Now, torque down the engine mount bolts on both sides to the proper value. A forum search states the proper torque value for the motor mounts is 33Lb-Ft. Finally, tighten up the skidplate bolts and nuts. Use a 19mm wrench to hold the bolt and a 19mm socket to tighten the nut. If you have one, use an impact wrench and zap them on, otherwise, the ratchet takes forever. I used the German torque value of Gutentight on the skidplate nuts and bolts. Pop in the supplied plastic hole blockoff grommets, and thats it! It took maybe an hour tops, and thats only because of the trial and error with the skid plate, which required first wrestling with the nut in tight quarters, then removing the bolts for the skidplate and starting that over. Overall, an awesome, sturdy product, that looks great. Hopefully, the ease of installation helps anyone who is still on the fence to make a decision and pick up one of these cages! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I'm ok with the pic size on a "How To". I can't count the number of times I was blowing up pics trying to see a detail that made all the difference during an install 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traceroz Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Washers are required to take the thrust of the fastener as it engages, as well as spreading the load across the face. Also, IMHO, the welding on this frame looks terrible (except for the nice fillet on the belly pan). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Washers are required to take the thrust of the fastener as it engages, as well as spreading the load across the face. Also, IMHO, the welding on this frame looks terrible (except for the nice fillet on the belly pan). The tube ends that go against the frame have washer ends that take the thrust. I didn't use any grease on the threads as it changes the actual torque applied. As in 33 ft. lbs becomes plus or minus 36-38 ft. lbs. and being that those threads go into the alum. engine, I didn't want to take the chance of stripping the threads. General note: All torque values are given for dry threads. (industy standard) Apply locktite etc, you need to lower the torque. Same principal that should be used in tightening the drain plug. IMHO, the welds look just fine. You will not even notice due to the location of the cage. I followed Higdonion's directions for the install and had no problems with any of the fasteners, and yes the one next to the senser is tough. I did better on the second install. Installs get easier the more times you do it. Hint: save all the OEM fasteners, washers etc. and note where you took them off. Added this install to the "How To Index" as (1), Nice write up. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member OutlanderBC Posted February 17, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 17, 2016 I must say I really like this skid plate. looks nicer than some of the others too. Got any more pictures from farther away? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 18, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 18, 2016 Washers are required to take the thrust of the fastener as it engages, as well as spreading the load across the face. Also, IMHO, the welding on this frame looks terrible (except for the nice fillet on the belly pan). I agree. The close up pictures really show the sloppy welds that look like they have little penetration. The whole design looks kind of shoddy to me. Nice job on the install guide though and for providing the detailed pictures. Thanks for making the effort! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I must say I really like this skid plate. looks nicer than some of the others too. Got any more pictures from farther away? You might look at Higdonion's thread here: Clicky Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 while I agree that the welds arent sexy I wont start complaining unless they separate. I've seen worse on Givi products and others. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 9rider Posted May 6, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted May 6, 2016 Just installed my unit and looks very nice. I picked mine up at Kris's shop in Las Vegas. If you want to save $50. shipping and are in Las Vegas area stop by and pick one up. He has a small shop that appears to be pretty well set up, he told me he has sold close to 200 of these units. They must be getting better as mine looks primo with clean welds and smooth powder coating. My brother-in-law who is a certified welder said the welds looked good. These babies are a bit heavy but should give good protection when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
higdonion Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Just installed my unit and looks very nice. I picked mine up at Kris's shop in Las Vegas. If you want to save $50. shipping and are in Las Vegas area stop by and pick one up. He has a small shop that appears to be pretty well set up, he told me he has sold close to 200 of these units. They must be getting better as mine looks primo with clean welds and smooth powder coating. My brother-in-law who is a certified welder said the welds looked good. These babies are a bit heavy but should give good protection when needed. Thank you! Yes I've had a few employees Cruz threw in the past. This one I'll admit isn't exactly a looker... at least in that one photo. Photos are hard on welds though. There difficult to get a good shot of and easy to get a bad one. None the less I know the welds are strong. As of currently I'm back to building them all myself. It's the best way as long as I can keep up. Anyway Super sweet install post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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