Unble to unscrew right Fork cap

[2and3cylinders]

I read the manual and loosened the top triple clamp Fork tube Bolts. I fully backed out the preload. I was able to easily loosen the Right Fork cap to where the O-ring was fully exposed and two threads could be seen above the top of the Right Fork tube.
 
However, at that point the Right Fork tube cap would turn readily but after 360° I'd hear a click and it would unscrew no further regardless of how many times I rotated the cap.
 
I tried pulling on the cap as I rotated it counterclockwise to no avail. I did not bother trying to loosen the left for cap because if I couldn't unthread the right fork tube there would have been no use in trying to remove the left because my objective was simply to add 1 oz of fork fluid to each Fork to reduce the air spring effect by reducing Air volume.
 
Has anyone else experienced this issue or have an idea of what the problem could be?

[duhs10]

The outer tube needs to be able to fall/lower in relation to the fork cap. The fork cap is attached to the damper cartridge rod which can only extend so far until it tops out... at that point the outer fork tube needs to be able to drop so that the fork cap can continue to unscrew. Sounds like you are at that point where the cartridge rod is topped out and the fork cap is jumping threads because the outer tube is still being held by the lower clamps. I would loosen the lower pinch bolts or pull the fork off the bike before proceeding.

[duhs10]

I was thinking about this more and I still feel confident that you are jumping threads.
 
I would recommend removing the forks from the bike. It really doesn't take long to do and it's the safest way to pull the fork caps.
 
What I mentioned earlier could work, but you need to support the front of the bike with a floor jack or something. Once the cap is removed from the outer tube there is nothing to prevent the bike from falling forward. Unless you do one side at a time... but I would still recommend pulling the forks or at minimum using a flood jack under the headers or something.

[2and3cylinders]

After loosening the triple clamp pinch bolt and fork cap I elevated the wheel per the FSM but did not remove the wheel before continuing to loosen the cap.
 
Based on prior extensive experience albeit limited on USD forks, the cap should have been under enough spring pressure to permit it to "pop" up above the top of the stansion tube to the extent that continuous careful pressure was required to prevent stripping out the upper threads of the tube and or lower threads of the cap.
 
However, in our case maybe the spring is fully unloaded and the wheel must first be remove and upward pressure be applied to the damper rod by lifting the slider tube.
 
I'll try to find a video.

[2and3cylinders]

Apparently, the fork tube must be removed and very slight pressure applied to the slider while unthreading the cap. Ah, well, easy to do but another day, as I'm heading out soon on a glorious 4th for a ride!!!

[xlxr]

I haven't had my forks apart in over a year, so this is from memory. Hopefully, the first thing you did was back out the damping adjuster to avoid damaging it, and minimize preload adjustment to take as much pressure off the spring as possible. Then unscrew the cap and let the upper tube drop into the lower tube. Pull the cap all the way up, then you have to pull the spring down, there is a special tool for that, but I have done it by using small hooks on the top part of the spring and pulling down on the hooks with a tie down strap with the other end hooked to the bottom of the lower fork tube. Once you pull the spring down and away from the fork cap, there is a locking nut on top of the damper tube and seated against the bottom part of the cap. You have to loosen that locking nut. When you loosen that locking nut, the cap will screw off the damper tube by hand.

[pattonme]

simply to add 1 oz of fork fluid to each Fork to reduce the air spring effect by reducing Air volume.

10cc of fluid moves the oil height by 9-10mm. You do NOT want to put 1oz = 30cc into the fork unless you have a damn good reason to do so. What does the zip tie on your stanchion tell you when you do your utmost, best stop? Are you inside of 10mm left at the bottom? 
Loosen the cap like you did before and put the weight of the bike on the front wheel. You didn't say if you had the front wheel in the air or not. If the weight is insufficient, then use a ratchet strap and compress the forks down till the cap thread are clear enough for you to dribble in the extra oil.
 
If you unscrew both sides at the same time, just be sure you have a jack under the engine so you can raise it back up!

[2and3cylinders]

simply to add 1 oz of fork fluid to each Fork to reduce the air spring effect by reducing Air volume.

10cc of fluid moves the oil height by 9-10mm. You do NOT want to put 1oz = 30cc into the fork unless you have a damn good reason to do so. What does the zip tie on your stanchion tell you when you do your utmost, best stop? Are you inside of 10mm left at the bottom? 
Loosen the cap like you did before and put the weight of the bike on the front wheel. You didn't say if you had the front wheel in the air or not. If the weight is insufficient, then use a ratchet strap and compress the forks down till the cap thread are clear enough for you to dribble in the extra oil.
 
If you unscrew both sides at the same time, just be sure you have a jack under the engine so you can raise it back up!

When I said 1 oz, I was only indicating I wanted to add fluid to reduce the air spring and resist bottoming.  I have a smooth riding style and do not load the front end as much as I could including during braking but yes I'm "inside the 10 mm" bottom out margin with my 230# without gear weight.  I did back out both the preload and rebound screw before starting and had the front wheel off the deck.  Based on videos I reviewed, it appears I need to load the forks to raise the bottom inner slider up through the outer stanchion tube.  I am now concerned that if I unthread both caps together while lowering the wheel to the deck even gently and slowly, as I cannot accurately unscrew both caps simultaneously, that the upward pressure on the lower tubes/ damper "rods" will strip either the cap or upper tube threads, or both.  I only need to raise the cap above the top of the upper tube enough to inject in the fork fluid.  It sounds like the safest approach would be to remove the front wheel and unscrew the cap on one side at a time while supporting the bottom of that leg on a 2x4 while lowering the jack so that its slider tube - damper rod is raised while the other leg is not.  Correct?   
 
Also, do you think 10 cc of fluid would be too much or not enough?  Thanks!
 
Refer to my thread regarding obtaining a right leg damper assembly as to my initial plan to improve front end suspension control as much as possible at the least cost parts wise.

[bobaintstoppin]

2and3.  Not to worry on this.  The spring preload is next to nothing on these bikes.  Take the weight off of the front wheel, unscrew cap with some down force to avoid a surprise when the thread comes free.  You'll be fine.  You can fish parts out easily without compressing the fork legs.

[2and3cylinders]

2and3.  Not to worry on this.  The spring preload is next to nothing on these bikes.  Take the weight off of the front wheel, unscrew cap with some down force to avoid a surprise when the thread comes free.  You'll be fine.  You can fish parts out easily without compressing the fork legs.

I did exactly as you recommend and as I stated when about 2 threads were showing below the O-ring I would continue unscrewing the cap and every 360 degrees I'd hear and feel a click yet the cap did not continue to unthread or at least I could not pull it upward.  I will try again as I described in my prior post but now I'm awaiting input on obtaining a second set of right fork internals... 
thanks though.

[pattonme]

 
yes I'm "inside the 10 mm" bottom out margin with my 230# without gear weight.
...
the upward pressure on the lower tubes/ damper "rods" will strip either the cap or upper tube threads, or both.
 

 
You obviously need proper springs. Dithering about with oil level is pointless until the more fundamental issue is addressed. Once they are in and preload adjusted to achieve rider and static sag ranges, THEN if you do your utmost in braking and are bottoming the forks, it's time to play with oil level.
 
It's aluminum, not string cheese. Give the metal more credit.
 
Sure, you *can* run two right leg internals. But instead of faffing about, take both 'rights' apart and revalve them to where they should be so they work as a team.