Potential cam chain jump after APE manual tensioner

[dangerzone2]

Ugh...
 
To install the APE manual tensioner I pulled the side cover to make sure the tensioner was relatively snug before starting her up.  Welp, after hitting the starter I hear a loud clack clack clack.  I'm not sure if the cam chain skipped, or the chain was just too loose.  What are the chances of a cam chain skipping on startup?
 
 
To initially tighten the tensioner, I hand cranked it pretty damn hard and assumed it was tight enough to at least start up and listen for the clatter.  I was going off experience with my KTM 690 whose MCCT is ultra light to tighten.  Unfortunately, the FJ doesn't have much "feel" for when it's tight enough. 
 
So next steps are either:
 
1. tighten it more and assume it didn't skip. 
2. Weekend project tearing down, checking valves, and making sure everything is aligned before starting. 
 
Any insight would be helpful.  I'm worried to crank it up as I don't want it grenade on me. 
 
Thanks!

[nsmiller]

I can't speak to the proper way to adjust the APE, but I don't think you've likely jumped any teeth or you'd already know it. Especially if you only idled the bike. Obviously the main concern with jumping teeth is if the valves will interfere with the pistons. Cranking the engine over a few times by hand will tell you if this is a problem, if it is, obviously don't run the motor.
 
If you're not interfering then you won't damage the bike by cranking. It will either be where it is supposed to be, or it will run very poorly. In the later case you'll just know you have to fix it but no damage will be done.
 

[dangerzone2]

I can't speak to the proper way to adjust the APE, but I don't think you've likely jumped any teeth or you'd already know it. Especially if you only idled the bike. Obviously the main concern with jumping teeth is if the valves will interfere with the pistons. Cranking the engine over a few times by hand will tell you if this is a problem, if it is, obviously don't run the motor.  
If you're not interfering then you won't damage the bike by cranking. It will either be where it is supposed to be, or it will run very poorly. In the later case you'll just know you have to fix it but no damage will be done.

I actually hit the kill switch near instantly so it never idled.  
 
So if I can rotate crank the engine by hand without too much trouble I should be good to go? Obviously not holding anyone accountable, my dumb fault for trying to do this quickly and assume it was like my KTM. 

[nsmiller]

If you turn the crank two full rotations by hand (aka take off the right side cover, you'll need a gasket) without resistance (expect to feel some resistance from normal compression) then your valve train is not interfering (colliding) with your piston's stroke. If this is true, cranking will not damage the engine. It may not run if it has jumped a tooth, but it won't cause catastrophic damage to crank it.
 
All that said, my hunch is that you did not jump a tooth and you just need to tighten the tensioner.
 
Edit: Sorry I meant right side cover. AKA the non alternator side.

[piotrek]

If you turn the crank two full rotations by hand (aka take off the right side cover, you'll need a gasket) without resistance (expect to feel some resistance from normal compression) then your valve train is not interfering (colliding) with your piston's stroke. If this is true, cranking will not damage the engine. It may not run if it has jumped a tooth, but it won't cause catastrophic damage to crank it. 
All that said, my hunch is that you did not jump a tooth and you just need to tighten the tensioner.
 
Edit: Sorry I meant right side cover. AKA the non alternator side.

Crank bolt (19mm socket) is on LH side, behind a round cover (14mm hex). O-ring gasket can be re-used.

[Buggy Nate]

Ugh... 
To install the APE manual tensioner I pulled the side cover to make sure the tensioner was relatively snug before starting her up.  Welp, after hitting the starter I hear a loud clack clack clack.  I'm not sure if the cam chain skipped, or the chain was just too loose.  What are the chances of a cam chain skipping on startup?
 
 
To initially tighten the tensioner, I hand cranked it pretty damn hard and assumed it was tight enough to at least start up and listen for the clatter.  I was going off experience with my KTM 690 whose MCCT is ultra light to tighten.  Unfortunately, the FJ doesn't have much "feel" for when it's tight enough. 
 
So next steps are either:
 
1. tighten it more and assume it didn't skip. 
2. Weekend project tearing down, checking valves, and making sure everything is aligned before starting. 
 
Any insight would be helpful.  I'm worried to crank it up as I don't want it grenade on me. 
 
Thanks!

 
For what it is worth just pull the cam cover and check it mate. I wouldn’t be trying my luck. I have shit luck so I am extra paranoid but still...

[dangerzone2]

Thanks all for the insanely quick responses. I just put it on the center stand in 5th and spun the tire. It was hard but spun and without any weird metal clicking sounds so I went with it. Cranked it over and was good to go!!! Idles fine and revs up without hearing anything weird.
 
For tightening the MCCT, I started with it in a non-clatter position, loosened until it just barely started clattering (the position is very consistent and almost on/off switch), then tightened a 1/2 rotation. Seems good to go and the motor is so much quieter.
 
Again, thanks so much for the help!

[dangerzone2]

How many threads do you see exposed on the tensioner bolt? You should have ~9 full threads.

 Just checked and I have just under 9 full threads.  13,000 on the motor for whatever that's worth.  

[dangerzone2]

For what it is worth just pull the cam cover and check it mate. I wouldn’t be trying my luck. I have shet luck so I am extra paranoid but still...

LOL... too late. 

HAHA yeah, no worries.  I prepped the FJ last week waiting for the part to get in and really tired of riding the R6 into work.  Some serious first world problems