Throttle body sync with a manometer

[gv550]

I have a Super Tenere and have always used a homemade manometer (clear vinyl tube with ATF) to balance the throttle body. Being a twin cylinder it was quite simple to do. Now that I have a triple I'm wondering if I can use the same method, just balance #2 to #1, then #3 to #1, then check #2 to #3. As an alternative I could add a T fitting to the bottom of my manometer and an extra length of tubing to have all 3 cylinders connected and a column of ATF for each. Has anyone tried either method, or should I just buy the Motion Pro Synchronizer?

Also. I learned from the Tenere forum that engine runs better if both air screws are backed out 1/2 turn from the factory setting, then sync from there. Has this been tried on the CP3?

[BBB]

each throttle body is synched to the reference (marked with paint) so your suggestion of using your manometer should work just fine.

[BBB]

apparently i just liked my own post, way back in june 18 🤪🤪

[skipperT]

On 1/17/2019 at 9:03 AM, gv550 said:

I have a Super Tenere and have always used a homemade manometer (clear vinyl tube with ATF) to balance the throttle body. Being a twin cylinder it was quite simple to do. Now that I have a triple I'm wondering if I can use the same method, just balance #2 to #1, then #3 to #1, then check #2 to #3. As an alternative I could add a T fitting to the bottom of my manometer and an extra length of tubing to have all 3 cylinders connected and a column of ATF for each. Has anyone tried either method, or should I just buy the Motion Pro Synchronizer?

Also. I learned from the Tenere forum that engine runs better if both air screws are backed out 1/2 turn from the factory setting, then sync from there. Has this been tried on the CP3?

As B times 3 mentioned, you can use what you have. 

Regarding the initial setting trick - That one has been around for awhile on multiple models, Yamaha actually put a tech tip out specific to the 06 FJR I believe. Anyway, I've suggested it to a couple people, but no one has reported back on what kind of difference it made, if any. 

If you do this, make sure to wind out the white-painted air screw out 1/2 turn, and then sync to THAT cylinder as standard. Try it both ways and see if you can tell a difference at part throttle openings, idle, and/or starting.

HTH,

-Skip

[BBB]

9 hours ago, skipperT said:

If you do this, make sure to wind out the white-painted air screw out 1/2 turn, and then sync to THAT cylinder as standard.

What’s the thinking behind this @skipperT ? Advantages? This task is on my winter to-do list so will build this step into the procedure if it makes sense.

[skipperT]

The factory never "officially" said to start by winding the airscrews half a turn, but it was suggested to me by an "oldtimer"... 8-). It was supposed to help a very slight off-idle stumble that would occur when opening the throttle.  Many of the FJR's came out of the factory with the airscrews wound in tightly, allowing NO air through the bypass circuit of the TB.

I can't say if it would have a similar effect on this engine, because it's YCC-T instead of the older TB setup the FJR's had...

The thinking at the time (I think) was that by opening the airscrews a 1/2 turn you are raising the idle slightly and also putting the engine into a state where it has a bit more air to work with at idle for the sync when the butterflies are fully closed, so that it would be a smoother transition when they are opened and the engine gets a gulp of air. (Pure speculation on my part, I never asked him WHY it would make a difference...)

IMHO richening the CO%'s at idle has a greater effect on idle, starting, and part throttle smoothness. This hack isn't available on US models to the consumer anymore, Dealer Laptop with Yamaha software required.

-Skip