Supporting Member texscottyd Posted July 1, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted July 1, 2021 3 hours ago, SuperMax said: PS: curious if the 320mm rotors made it a pain removing/installing the calipers, as the distance to the rim would be leaving very littile room for it It’s tighter than with the stock rotors, but there’s still plenty of clearance to get the calipers on & off. It’s probably worth wrapping a cloth or some blue painter’s tape around the top of the calipers to avoid scratching the wheels, since there’s not a lot of extra room to work with, and the calipers have some sharp edges that can easily catch a wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperMax Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Thank you @texscottyd! i also see 90mm caliper bolts mentioned to be used with the 320mm rotors and 11mm spacers. As the stock bolts are 70mm, just wondering why not using 80mm caliper bolts? Just want to make sure the caliper bolts are fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted July 1, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted July 1, 2021 7 hours ago, SuperMax said: Thank you @texscottyd! i also see 90mm caliper bolts mentioned to be used with the 320mm rotors and 11mm spacers. As the stock bolts are 70mm, just wondering why not using 80mm caliper bolts? Just want to make sure the caliper bolts are fitting. I know that I have longer stainless caliper bolts on mine, but I'm not sure of the actual length. Give me a few minutes & I’ll see if I can find the specs. Today’s Public Safety Alert: The Pro Bolt website is a dangerous place to visit unsupervised…. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperMax Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Thanks @texscottyd! But it seems quite logic that if the standard caliper bolts are 70mm and if going for a 11mm spacer, the new bolts should be 80mm, rather than 90mm. I measured the caliper mount arm and it seems a 90mm bolt will be too long for it to be fully threaded inside PS: never bought anything from Pro-Bolt as their bolts seem overpriced I have had several Titanium bolts sourced from anywhere in Europe to China and none have failed on me. Currently rocking some Fanya Ti bolts that have served me very well for about 1 year on the current Tracer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted July 1, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted July 1, 2021 1 hour ago, SuperMax said: Thanks @texscottyd! But it seems quite logic that if the standard caliper bolts are 70mm and if going for a 11mm spacer, the new bolts should be 80mm, rather than 90mm. I measured the caliper mount arm and it seems a 90mm bolt will be too long for it to be fully threaded inside Mine are actually 85mm, and the consensus is that 80mm is fine, and 90mm is going to be too long. https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-steel-tapered-socket-cap-bolt-m10x1-25mmx85mm/ Good luck! It's a really nice upgrade... -Scott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperMax Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Thanks, Scott! I have already ordered the 80mm bolts. Have you replaced the master cylinder and lines, too? I think pads and master cylinder are the most effective upgrades you can make in terms of improving the braking efficiency Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted July 1, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted July 1, 2021 @SuperMax - I did EBC 320mm rotors, EBC HH pads, and Galfer stainless lines. Still using the stock master cylinder, but have contemplated trying a radial to see if it improves the feel just a bit. The brakes are much stronger than stock, but don’t quite have the tactile feel that I like… the lever is very firm, but the feedback is a little wooden. The brakes on my Aprilia and 636 give better progressive feedback. I suspect that just doing the HH pads and stainless lines (then possibly the master cylinder) would be ALMOST as good, for a lot less money. But hey, it looks cool, so that’s gotta be good for something… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperMax Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Looking good!! Already have the 320 mm Galfer rotors (plus a brand new pair of 310mm rotors) 11mm spacers and Vesrah sintered pads, so probably will go for the braided likes, too An R6/R1 master cylinder will require some mirror placement modifications, and not to keen to go for these now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted July 3, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted July 3, 2021 On 7/1/2021 at 6:52 PM, SuperMax said: Already have the 320 mm Galfer rotors (plus a brand new pair of 310mm rotors) 11mm spacers and Vesrah sintered pads, so probably will go for the braided likes, too A couple of tips: Heat on the rotor bolts will be your friend. The stock rotor bolts are essentially glued in there with Loctite, and it’s easy to round out the hex drive. Lots of heat, then slow & steady pressure while making sure the bit is fully seated in the rotor bolt. Even if you’re not reusing the rotor bolts, you’ll want to get them off without drama. Replacing the brake lines isn’t difficult, but it’s tedious. Enough of us here have done it that it’s reasonably well documented. I went with Galfer (excellent product), and the Spiegler lines are also highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperMax Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Thanks for the tips, appreciate it! I changed a pair of rotors before, so fully aware of the procedure Having a set of spare Ti bolts, too - just in case I will need to replace any. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now