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About unicycle52

  • Birthday 10/17/1952

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  1. I've been using the Warm and Safe jacket liner for years. I use it with the wireless Heat troller mounted with "pin-lock" (plastic type heavy duty velcro) on my front brake master cylinder with the tether looped around the mirror. Warm and Safe Glove liners and Oxford Heated grips are the ticket for my hands. I tried the WNS gloves but found them too bulky. I only use the glove liners when it is in the 30's. Above 40 the heated grips tend to work fine.
  2. I believe the 2016 got the updated oilpan with the drain plug off to the side. Some of the early 2016's have the old style pan with the plug on the bottom. If you have the plug on the bottom you might want to do the "Mazda drain plug mod" which you can find somewhere on the forum. Basically it is replacing the stock drain plug with a specific plug for a Mazda and grinding (or filing) the "protective fin" off the oil pan. The Mazda plug has a much smaller profile and no hex edges to catch on anything. The mod will probably gain you 3/8 to 1/2" but more importantly is that it will remove the obstacles that might catch on things. FWIW, I installed a Hyperpro "lowering spring" last season which allows the spring to initially compress 1" upon mounting the bike. I rode 10K miles in New England last year without issue. Riding was solo. The skid plate does undoubtedly provide a bit of piece of mind. BTW If you are interested in hard sidebag (after coming off the ST1300). There is a set of FJR bags on Craigslist in southern NH right now.
  3. Welcome to FJ-09 ownership. I moved OVER to the FJ-09 two seasons ago after 120K miles on FJR's. Never looked back! Loved dropping 150 lbs bike weight. Thought the drive chain might be a pain in the butt however my used FJ-09 came with an electronic Scottoiler. I fill the oil reservoir every 750 miles and adjust the chain maybe 2 or 3 times between tire changes 10K and it is a no brainer. I run the chain looser than the INCORRECT spec in the manual. About 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" without me on bike (about 1" slack with me on the bike.) I'll be changing out the stock chain (23K miles) in the next couple of weeks. My 2015 FJ-09 came with a taller windscreen, ECU flash and FJR bags. I added a G-2 throttle cam, Hyperpro "lowering" shock spring and running lights. I'm 5'3" and 135 lbs. I live 10 miles below the NH border in Chelmsford, MA (just below Nashua, NH) Where are you located? I managed to put 850 miles on since Jan 1 but missed my usual target of 1K miles by April 1. Crappy weather and a trip to Houston last week crimped my riding time this Spring. Enjoy the bike. Let me know your location and I'll look you up. (Always looking for an excuse to ride.) Bill Hamilton
  4. I've been doing some research on performing a valve adjustment on the FJ-09. I've done many, many valve adjustments over the years on the set screw and nut system. Even checked the clearance on one of my FJR's a few years back. (All clearances were within spec. Whew). Never actually removed cams to change shims. I find the Factory Service manual is not all that user friendly to the layman and I don't want to screw up the valve timing while re-installing the cams or the cam chain tensioner. Does anyone have a copy of the Haynes service manual? Is it any more user friendly than the factory version. Some of my older bike manuals had a cam chain tooth count and some detailed information for installing the camshafts. (Kawasaki Concours 1000cc bikes.) Years ago I changed timing belts on a few Honda Accords and rebuilt their engines. (Reconditioned cylinder head, new rod bearings, new rings etc.) I have some reasonable hands experience but I would like a little more comprehensive information before moving forward. Any link to a diy video or other information would be great. Also I have seen reference to shim kits (Hot cam, and ProX ) Is there a recommended shim kit that comes in small enough increments for proper valve adjustment. Thanks. Bill Hamilton
  5. I also recently adjusted the APS. Very easy with a 1/4" ratchet and an 8 mm socket. My bike has a reflash done by TWD and it always felt "herky jerky" doing off/on throttle transitions. The A mode for the throttle was way too sensitive to low RPM throttle transitions. I added a G-2 throttle and it improved things but still not near as controllable as I would like. I recently did the APS adjustment and it made a very noticeable improvement. Well worth doing in my book. Removing and re-installing the body work necessary to tip the tank forward took more time than the simple adjustment procedure. Go for it! Bill
  6. This past year the touch screen on my Zumo 550 was acting "wonky" and not responding properly to touch input. I followed a link on ADVrider and purchased a "digitizer" screen on Ebay for cheap money and replaced it with some help from a "how to" on ADVrider and all was good for a while. Eventually I was starting to have similar issues with the replacement digitizer. I'll spare the details of a second attempt to replace the "digitizer/lcd screen" without success. Anyway, I found a link on ADVrider to a repair service. The guy was very prompt with his response to my questions, had very reasonable pricing and quick turn around. In the process, I learned that our units have internal batteries that fail after a few years which cause the units to be very slow sometimes trying to get a satellite connection because it doesn't remember where it last was without the internal battery back-up. Anyway, here is a link to this guys service company: http://www.palmdr.com/ The guys name is Chris Short. Excellent service, reasonable prices and quick turn around. Highly recommended. Bill Hamilton
  7. After about a dozen visits to the Chiropractor (going twice a week) for probably similar neck/shoulder issues, I ended up going to "physical therapy". Inside of several weeks (twice a week) I am on the mend and can now ride comfortably. My on and off pain started in April. In the beginning of June I rode 200 miles non-stop to Americade, and 200 miles home the next day and I was in agony with neck pain after the first 20 minutes of riding. Tried plan B. Went for an evaluation and Physical Therapy (PT) Holding the head forward with a helmet on can really aggravate neck issues. I have learned to keep the head back over my shoulders and use a "chin tuck". It has made all the difference in the world for riding comfort. I was in agony off and on for several months, and several weeks into PT I am riding in three and four hour stretches with no problems. No bike mods. Rider posture and exercise hopefully will do the trick for you. I think it takes BOTH. I have had positive results in the past with a Chiropractor for other issues, and I'm not discounting their value, but for my neck issues I had to seek other alternatives. Best of luck for a speedy resolution. Bill
  8. I just purchased a Harbor Freight motorcycle table lift and I would like to upgrade the wheel chock to either a wheel vise like this: https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4700/b9ffa/products/222/images/313/W-Vise-1__46954.1329175972.1280.1280.jpg?c=2 or something like the Condor: https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=371174849600&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps I'd like to be able to ride "into" the wheel chock and be able to get off the bike without fear of the bike falling before I tie it down to the lift. I'm leaning toward the wheel vice because I'm concerned that if I get the wheel chock that holds the bike I will have difficulty backing the bike out of the wheel chock. I only weigh 135 at 5' 3". So I would have to stand next to the bike and tug it backward to get it out of the chock. How difficult is it to back out of one of those "ride-in" type chocks. BTW I plan on building a platform on either side of the lift so that I have adequate footing for loading and unloading the bike. Input welcome. I've never had a table lift so any tips (no pun intended) for loading and unloading the bike are welcome. Thanks Unicycle52
  9. I lowered my bike but I did not use the Yamaha dogbones. I installed a Hyperpro "progressive lowering spring" (about $150 for the spring) on the rear shock in place of the stock spring. To maintain proper suspension geometry, Hyperpro suggests raising the front fork tubes in the triple tree by 15mm. Total modification lowers the bike 1 inch with the rider in place. Go to this link for more info: http://hyperpro.com/height-adjustment/ The theory with the progressive lowering spring is that the spring squishes 1" when you mount the bike and sit down. The spring is the standard length but the initial squat gets you lowered with rider weight. The spring supposedly is rated like the stock spring after the initial squat and you adjust the preload for you weight or the addition of a passenger. Centerstand is still useable as is. However I make life a little easier by backing the bike onto a tapered wedge that raises that raises the rear tire onto a 2x4 block. Very easy then. With the Hyperpro rear spring installed and NO change to the forks the side stand works ok but holds the bike pretty verticle. When I raised the forks 15mm I just felt like the side stand was holding the bike more verticle than I was comfortable with so I opted to cut the stand down 1/2" and have it rewelded for $20. I considered one of the adjustable stands on the market but it seemed like the adjustment increments might end up being too short or too tall without an in between option. I've ridden about 1500 miles on the shock and everything seems fine. I hope to try cranking up the preload and taking a ride with a passenger in the near future. If I'm correct, I believe the overall shock travel should be exactly the same as stock, however, in general I believe when I ride, I'm always squatted down 1" inch more than I would be on the stock set up, but the "bottoming out" point should be the same as stock. I only weigh about 145 lbs with gear. I read somewhere on one of the "suspension guru" website (I forget which one) that they don't recommend changing the dogbones. It alters the leverage ratio controlling the shock spring and can cause clearance issues between the tire and the rear fender. That being said, I'm sure the ones that Yamaha sells would have no clearance issues. That's my 2 cents on the topic. Unicycle52 Not everyone is 6' tall I am 5'3" with a 29" inseam. I'm coming off of 11 years of riding FJR's and 12 years before that of owning Kawasaki Coucours 1000's. I'm lovin' the light weight.
  10. I believe removal of the tank and airbox gives you the best access. The tank doesn't have to be disconnected if you carefully turn it facing backwards and set it on the rear subframe on a cushioned surface so that it doesn't shift. Remove the airbox and then you have access to the plugs.
  11. "When I'm 64" just became reality for me. Lovin' the FJ-09 after many, many years riding big sport touring machines.
  12. I've been riding large sport touring bikes for over 20 years, 12 years on a couple of Kawasaki Concours 1000cc bikes and 11 years on Yamaha FJR 1300's. I'm 63 years old, weigh 135 pounds and 5'4" tall. I decided I was getting tired of pushing around 650 pound land yachts. (Absolutely loved my FJR's and had no problem riding them but didn't enjoy trying to negotiate uneven pavement parking and wrestling to move it around at a stop.) Dropping 180 pounds by moving to the FJ-09 has been sheer joy. FJ-09 has plenty of power and is like riding a fun toy instead of a fun beast. Loving the FJ-09 Bill Hamilton
  13. FYI Gary from G-2 throttle said that if need be you could sand down the knurled surface a bit or have them reduce the diameter. He said that many heated grips install with no issues or modification necessary. No mod's necessary for the Oxford Premium Adventure Grips Good luck. Bill
  14. As a follow up I would like to report that the Oxford Premium Adventure heated grips work just fine with the G-2 Throttle Tamer. (Get the "Adventure version because they are the right length for the FJ-09). The grip instructions give specifications for the handlebar and throttle tube dimensions. The FJ-09 handlebar (left side) was exactly within spec for the Oxford grip. The G-2 throttle sleeve was the exact dimension on the smooth ends of the tube and just slightly larger on the knurled surface. (by less than 1/2 mm). There were a few rubber "nubbies" (technical term) inside the right grip. I used some fine (220 grit) sandpaper wrapped around a broom handle to scuff out the nubs. I did a test fit of the throttle side grip rotating the grip clockwise as I installed it onto the G-2 which was mounted on the bike. It took moderate effort to rotate it and press it inward as I "pushed and turned" it into place. I continued to turn it clockwise while pulling out on it to remove the throttle side grip after determining where I wanted to locate the wire coming out of the grip. Turning the grip clockwise forces the throttle to the closed position and makes installing and removing the grip much easier. I did two dry runs mounting the grips into position so that I would feel comfortable doing the install in "one shot" with the supplied super glue. Each time I "cranked" the grip onto the knurled surface of the G-2, the process got slightly easier which gave me the confidence to "go for it" with the super glue. The super glue is like water and dripped everywhere as I was applying it to the handlebar/throttle tube. MAKE SURE you cover your painted surfaces with something that won't allow any the super glue to get near the paint. This stuff eats through stuff quickly. I had a sheet of white shipping foam over the tank with a piece of heavy poly plastic over that. The glue that dripped off the plastic onto the foam melted right through the foam. I was very glad I had the plastic on top!!! I chose to power my grips through a switched circuit I created on my six circuit POWERBLOCK. But you can simply power right off the battery and the controller has a built in circuit that shuts off the grips when the bike is not running AND if the voltage on the battery gets to a pre-determined low level. Very nice design. AND......... if a grip eventually fails due to wire fatigue you can replace them individually for $20 each. Happy Riding. I'm loving this FJ-09 after downsizing from 11 years and 110K mile on FJR's (which I loved). The 180 pound weight reduction works extremely well for my 63 year old body with a 28" inseam and fighting weight of 135 lbs. Bill Hamilton