DavidS

I had duplicate keys made for mine, the metal is much better, and it doesn't bend.

I got to the point where I had too many electrical gadgets (GPS, lights, heated seat, etc) that I wasn't comfortable just connecting them all to the battery. I did some research, and chose the Fuse Block FZ1. It's around $90 from AdventureDesigns (AdvDesigns.com) The Fuse Block needs to be connected to the battery for power, and it also needs to be grounded somewhere on the bike. Optionally, but very useful, is the third wire which provides you with switched power. (When the bike is on, these circuits are live. When you turn the bike off, they stop working) This keeps your battery from getting drained if you forget to turn off a GPS or other device. The installation is pretty simple, and most folks will be able to work through the process if you take your time. The hardest part is if you want to tap into the switched power, as you will have to make a connection to a wire that works only when the power is turned on. I ran the positive and negative connection from the Fuse Block to the battery directly. I used a PosiTap connector to connect the switched power, and used the tail light wire for this. Now, I can add new electrical devices and wire them back to the Fuse Block (there are 6 spaces to add devices) and you can choose if you want each one to be switched or always live. I've had mine for a few years, and no issues. Keeps the wiring off the battery terminals, and you can document what each wire goes to on the cap of the fuse block.

Your white "Handle" looks like a question mark - as in "Why oh Why did Yamaha think this was necessary....."

I bought it, but don't use it! It's much easier to put a tape measure on the floor and measure from the low point of the chain to the high point.

Well, it sounds like there are as many solutions as people. I guess my experience isn't unusual. I keep switching between ear buds plugged into my Sena 20S (with wire tucked under my jacket, using the in-helmet speakers with ear plugs in my ears, or nothing at all. I do wish someone would come up with a solution that works better..... but maybe one doesn't exist yet!

Here you go.....

I got the Large top case from Shad. I like it a lot , and it will carry two full size helmets easily. I find having the large top case very helpful, and while the bike would look better with a smaller, or no case, it is great for commuting or carrying extra gear when you are riding through several weather zones like in the Pacific North West. I ordered mine through Shad USA, but I strongly discourage that. I couldn't get them to ship my cases, and they kept showing up on Revzilla and Amazon. I'm quite sure they prioritized vendors over me, and the the person who I interacted with at Shad (Daniel Rosas) was a complete ass. If you are interested, you can search the forum for Shad Sucks and read about my ordeal. Great product, lousy service!

I forgot about the fuzes in the front right near the radiator cap. One of those fuzes was blown. replaced it and the dash started working ok. I cleaned up the wires in the back, and now everything is working again. Rode it to work today and back, no issues. This weekend, I'll connect the wires from the tail tidy to my fuze block. Now it is just a straight run to a switched circuit on the block, rather than connecting to a bunch of other wires in a harness. The only light not working is the light over the license plate. Simple is best, Still pissed that in all of Seattle I couldn't get any shop, dealer or private company to take a look at it. In the end, it saved me a bunch of money figuring it out myself, but really? I will be re-evaluating where I go next time I need tires, or other stuff. Got a few dealers/shops that are now on my black list. But I also learned I can do the troubleshooting myself with the help of a manual, the internet, and the kind folks on this forum. Thanks All!

It's possible that the installation of the Tail Tidy had nothing to do with the issue of not starting. I just don't know how to go about figuring it out. I did check all the fuze locations I could find (2 fuze boxes if I remember correctly), and even replaced each fuze with spares I carry to make sure they were all ok, but no luck. I wonder if my testing the tail tidy by touching the wires together created a short, or some other situation which triggered the code 60 fault, and once that is cleared all will be good. (I'm hoping anyway)

I rode the bike to work and back Friday and everything was fine. When I got home, I decided to install the new tail tidy before my scheduled ride on Saturday. I removed the old tail tidy stock unit, including tail tidy and blinkers, and installed the new tail tidy in its place, with no issues. When I touched the new positive and negative wires from the tail tidy to the existing wires that used to go to my old blinkers, I got positive confirmation that the new unit was working. I was a happy camper at that point. I started to make the electrical connections more secure by twisting the wires and covering them with electrical tape. Once done, I turned the key to start the bike and got a fault code 60, which is YCCT malfunction. I'm not sure how YCCT is related here, but that is the fault code I'm seeing on my screen. The bike will crank, but not turn on. Any ideas, advice and help is appreciated.

No, bike doesn't start, figured it was due to the fault code, nothing else changed except removing my old blinkers and license plate/tail assembly and replacing it with the new tail tidy. (which was why I was working on the bike to begin with) I rode the bike home from work on Friday and started installing the new tail tidy. Then everything started going bad....

None of the fuzes are blown, but the dash still shows error code 60. I'm stumped. I even disconnected the battery for the night and that didn't have any impact. I'm hoping that just by clearing the code, all will be ok. I'm going to bring it into my local service guy on Tuesday to see if he can clear the code for me. I don't see how I can do that myself. Sucks because I have to rent a trailer to bring it to him. I'll report back once I find out what it was.

I use Plexus. Spray it on the windshield once or twice a week, and wipe it down with a cloth. Makes the screen super slippery, and if a bug does splat on the screen, it doesn't stick much, and is easily wiped off with a cloth. Works on helmet screens as well....

how do I clear the code?

fuze near battery is fine, I'm going to deal with this tomorrow. Frustrating though. Wish I knew what I did that caused it. I'm wondering if the new tail tidy has anything to do with this. The only electrical was disconnecting and removing the old wiring from the rear light, and installing and hooking up the new one. I'm wondering if once the fault occurs, I'll need to take the bike somewhere to clear it. Or if there is some way I can clear the fault at home. Any ideas?