unicycle52

Spare clutch cable (which I had to use this July while out of state on vacation with 45K miles on the bike), tire patch kit, air compressor, duct tape, Aerostich Jumper cables, zip ties, elecrical tape, wrenches for chain adjustment, digital multimeter, basic sockets, allen wrenches, large socket and allen wrench for wheel removal. Only thing I don't have for wheel removal is a long breaker bar. All tools fit in a bag about 6"x 8" x 8". I call it the repair "brick". I keep it in the bottom of my sidebag. I figure that anyone that stops to help is not going to have the sockets or allen wrench for the wheels, but they might have or be able to run for a breaker bar. One of these days I'll figure out a telescoping version of a breaker bar to carry. Side story: A number of years ago, (about 50 miles from home) I bent my rear rim on a pothole while riding my FJR. NOW WHAT. Tire wouldn't hold air!. No cell reception (of course). I ended up riding "bitch" on the back of my riding buddies bike for 5 miles to my brothers house. He happened to be washing HIS FJR in his driveway. We parked his bike in the shed and removed his rear wheel. He drove me 5 miles back to my bike with his rear wheel (and breaker bar) in hand. Within an hour of my pothole incident I was back on the road heading home on my own bike. I scored a used wheel on Ebay for $150 bucks and had it at my front door 4 days later. Worst part of the whole deal was I had to drive the "cage" 100 miles round trip to return my brothers wheel. Well worth the trip!!! He saved my ass that time!

I'm currently 5'3" (shrunk 2 inches as I've aged to 67 years old). I weigh 135. I have about a 29" inseam. The first and best mod I did while I owned FJR's for 10 years was to add 3/4" to the soles of my riding boots. (A good shoe repair guy can do it for $60 or less.) One you modify your boots you'll kick yourself for not modifying them years ago. Second thing I did was carve out the shape of the seat to lower it. (I got some foam from Sargeant seat company that was denser than stock and modified that into the seat nose and re-installed the Seat Concept cover). The last thing I did was install a "Hyperpro Lowering Spring" onto the stock shock. ($150 ) Instructions have you raise the forks in the triple tree about 1/2". Rear of the bike settles down 1 inch WHEN YOU MOUNT THE BIKE and lowering the front end keeps it all in balance. All suspension geometry stays the way it was designed. (Unlike using lowering links which screws up the shock leverage and geometry). I did end up shortening the sidestand. (I don't think I would have to shorten it if I left the forks in stock position). Like someone else suggested, I have a wedge shaped piece of 2 x 4 that I back the rear wheel up onto and the centerstand then works like normal. I have a 2015 FJ-09 and have ridden it about 35K miles with this mod. I did add a wooden bead seat pad to the seat for a little more comfort. Do the boots!!!! Well worth it. Then go from there.

I had the old cable disconnected on both ends and did a careful examination. Pulling it slowly to see if it was dragging and pulling the top end out as far as possible. It functioned perfectly and showed no sign of wear or damage. So I lubed it (for the first time in 41K miles) and reconnected it. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" I'll continue to carry the new one as a spare. (I did throw in a 4' piece of electrical wire to use as a "fish-snake" to make pulling out the old and pulling in the new cable easier should I ever have to change it on the road.)

I was working on the bike this weekend and want to rescind my comment about the cable location being on top from the factory. It dawned on me that I had a valve adjustment done at one point. I suspect that the cable was originally behind (under) the breather hose on mine as well. and when the airbox was re-installed after the valve adjustment the breather hose was mis-routed UNDER the clutch cable. I had the airbox out this weekend and upon installing it, the logical location for the hose was OVER the clutch cable.

Mine on my 2015 is on top. Looks exactly like your picture. I'd leave it alone. I bought my bike one year old with 2800 miles on it and I suspect there was no reason for the original owner to replace the cable that soon. I have been carrying a spare for about three years after I read about breaking issues. My bike now has 41300 miles on the original cable. Good luck. BTW did yours break?

Region 5

I've been doing some research on performing a valve adjustment on the FJ-09. I've done many, many valve adjustments over the years on the set screw and nut system. Even checked the clearance on one of my FJR's a few years back. (All clearances were within spec. Whew). Never actually removed cams to change shims. I find the Factory Service manual is not all that user friendly to the layman and I don't want to screw up the valve timing while re-installing the cams or the cam chain tensioner. Does anyone have a copy of the Haynes service manual? Is it any more user friendly than the factory version. Some of my older bike manuals had a cam chain tooth count and some detailed information for installing the camshafts. (Kawasaki Concours 1000cc bikes.) Years ago I changed timing belts on a few Honda Accords and rebuilt their engines. (Reconditioned cylinder head, new rod bearings, new rings etc.) I have some reasonable hands experience but I would like a little more comprehensive information before moving forward. Any link to a diy video or other information would be great. Also I have seen reference to shim kits (Hot cam, and ProX ) Is there a recommended shim kit that comes in small enough increments for proper valve adjustment. Thanks. Bill Hamilton

FYI Gary from G-2 throttle said that if need be you could sand down the knurled surface a bit or have them reduce the diameter. He said that many heated grips install with no issues or modification necessary. No mod's necessary for the Oxford Premium Adventure Grips Good luck. Bill

As a follow up I would like to report that the Oxford Premium Adventure heated grips work just fine with the G-2 Throttle Tamer. (Get the "Adventure version because they are the right length for the FJ-09). The grip instructions give specifications for the handlebar and throttle tube dimensions. The FJ-09 handlebar (left side) was exactly within spec for the Oxford grip. The G-2 throttle sleeve was the exact dimension on the smooth ends of the tube and just slightly larger on the knurled surface. (by less than 1/2 mm). There were a few rubber "nubbies" (technical term) inside the right grip. I used some fine (220 grit) sandpaper wrapped around a broom handle to scuff out the nubs. I did a test fit of the throttle side grip rotating the grip clockwise as I installed it onto the G-2 which was mounted on the bike. It took moderate effort to rotate it and press it inward as I "pushed and turned" it into place. I continued to turn it clockwise while pulling out on it to remove the throttle side grip after determining where I wanted to locate the wire coming out of the grip. Turning the grip clockwise forces the throttle to the closed position and makes installing and removing the grip much easier. I did two dry runs mounting the grips into position so that I would feel comfortable doing the install in "one shot" with the supplied super glue. Each time I "cranked" the grip onto the knurled surface of the G-2, the process got slightly easier which gave me the confidence to "go for it" with the super glue. The super glue is like water and dripped everywhere as I was applying it to the handlebar/throttle tube. MAKE SURE you cover your painted surfaces with something that won't allow any the super glue to get near the paint. This stuff eats through stuff quickly. I had a sheet of white shipping foam over the tank with a piece of heavy poly plastic over that. The glue that dripped off the plastic onto the foam melted right through the foam. I was very glad I had the plastic on top!!! I chose to power my grips through a switched circuit I created on my six circuit POWERBLOCK. But you can simply power right off the battery and the controller has a built in circuit that shuts off the grips when the bike is not running AND if the voltage on the battery gets to a pre-determined low level. Very nice design. AND......... if a grip eventually fails due to wire fatigue you can replace them individually for $20 each. Happy Riding. I'm loving this FJ-09 after downsizing from 11 years and 110K mile on FJR's (which I loved). The 180 pound weight reduction works extremely well for my 63 year old body with a 28" inseam and fighting weight of 135 lbs. Bill Hamilton

The proper part number for the G-2 throttle tamer is #40-4Y-142. There is no listing on the G-2 website for the FJ-09 but I sent Gary an email to find out for sure. If you order the one for 2003-2010 FJR1300A, 2011-2016 FJR1300 you will get the correct one. Bill Hamilton

Yes, I have viewed the rear subframe for the FJ-09 and the FZ-09 online in the parts diagram. Those views of the parts shows them clearly enough to see the simple design, but how the subframe integrates with the seat and the side panels and under tank panel are not shown on the frame parts diagram. That's why I'm hoping someone might post a few photos. I know the subframe of the FJ has been extended (lengthed) 5 or so inches compared to the FZ but Yamaha also chose to raise the subframe for that "adventure bike" look. That is what's killing it for us inseam challenged riders. Riding solo with a reach to the ground on tip toes is quite do-able but stopping to park is the challenge. Flat pavement isn't too bad but as soon as I get to a dirt and rubble parking lot, campground etc. it really sucks. A tough reach becomes an impossible reach. Add a passenger and things get dicey.

I've ridden over 100k miles on FJR's since 2005 and I would love to lose 200 lbs and get a FJ-09. Problem is, the FJ is extremely tall for a 29" inseam. I don't want to modify the bikes suspension to lower the seat height but I'd like to explore the possibility of modifying the rear subframe. It appears that with a little careful measuring there is ample space between the rear tire and the subframe to allow this. The subframe is really a tubular member on each side mounted to the upper frame mounts on the main frame with a diagonal tubular brace re-enforcing it and carrying some of the weight down to a lower mounts on the main frame. I should think a metal fab shop could shorten the lower diagonal legs and maybe even level off the top of the subframe under the seat. Would any of you owners be willing to post a couple of pictures (from the side) of the subframe seat area with the seat removed and the body panel under the tank removed. Obviously this mod may involve reshaping the seat and potential issues with the seat pan and latch, and maybe issues with the body panel under the tank and seat, but not impossible obstacles for someone willing to put some time and money into the mod. I modified (lowered) the seat on my FJR and have 3/4" thickness added to my riding boots which gets the balls of my feet solidly on the ground and the heals almost down on the FJR. Same boots on the FJ and I'm on my tip toes! Photos and thoughts welcome.