norcal616

20 hours ago, rodb47 said:

I hear you. I've had the bike for two years.  I've learned to live with this. It's very specific. Basically, after the initial slack is taken out of the throttle (I have it set to the minimum by the manual),  there is no fuel until about an eighth of an inch of throttle. Then it hits. It hits harder then I like. I have test driven three other brand new FI motorcycles and none do this. I made a graph to show Dave so he'll understand what I'm talking about. Green is what I want. Red is what it's doing.

Have you tried riding the bike without TCS on??? I ride with TCS off 95%+ of the time 

I find it's much smoother vs TCS on due to my understanding of how the tunes are created on a dyno- TCS is turned off when they create a tune on the dyno since the front wheel does not rotate and the back wheel does which makes the TCS think something is wrong...

I find alot of this throttle problems tend to be a mix of rider and electronics combined... I had to retrain my muscles to let off the throttle in 2 steps vs the ole cable systems from carburetors... 

Just back off the throttle a tiny amount to give you an indication the electronics are paying attention to you then you can let off the throttle even more... 

Just a idea/thought...

A zip tie at the end should stop the strap from coming back thru the metal loop... 

Order new plastics but it's not gonna have the Yamaha Badge or a few of these go fast stickers 😁

14 minutes ago, yzpilot said:

If I ride my 2015 FJ-09 California bike daily, the bike fires right up in the mornings.  If I garage it for a few days, then I have to use the 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle or the wide open throttle method as you guys mentioned to get the bike to light up, and then it revs to the moon and I poop my pants as I back off the throttle and try to keep it idling until it warms up a tad to idle on its own and I can release the throttle.  Is this going to be the normal process until I retire the bike?  Fouled plugs?  Weak battery (original battery)?

Shouldn't have to apply throttle to start... generally OEM battery last approx 3-4yrs(never put on tender during winter months but ride daily during summer type of deal)... yes a battery tender may show full charge on an older battery but battery may not have enough AMPs to fire the bike up correctly...

I also notice the InstaTwitFace generation lives online vs the people who actually had a childhood prior to the cellphone in 1998?? Or so...

I find this forum to be more my liking, projects are a bit more thought out, done better, etc... 

40 minutes ago, bugie said:

I think you'd know that is happening because it would push your foot up, and, you'll feel vibration through the boot much like you do with the foot peg.

Also, the pic posted by @ChukMcChuk is on the opposite side of the centrestand lever 😜 

Good to know...it was just something I thought of, I'm guilty of pushing down on it when just cruising along the freeway, but haven't yet cornering...

Also I kinda suspect some ppl are unknowingly pushing the center stand down with the heel of foot... 

Nice solution...

I just want to point out the earlier year bikes w/o factory cruise control that use an aftermarket cruise control might find the space in the truck lacking due to the location/size of the cruise control "black box"... 

Remove peg feelers...

Trim rubber stop pad on center stand to allow it to ride higher...

Using chicken strips to judge how low you lean is somewhat counterproductive... 

Check tire/suspension setup... at 200# the factory suspension is overloaded... sadly Yamaha uses a 130# test rider when the avg rider seems to be 230# or more...

I'm sure y'all can source a 3rd party switch and wire it up... follow which color wires go where and whatnot inside the switch...

both McCruise and Brandon Dist used the same black box with the cruise control hardware but used different wiring harnesses/connections... 

I have an older Cruise Control from Brandon dist which has a slim switch block from TrailTech(?) I believe the brand was that I saw on the box... 

MT-09 (FZ-09) 4"- 6" Swing Arm Extensions. Performance Motorcycle Accessories, Ninja H2 intercooler kit, MT-FZ Turbo Kit and stunt bike parts from Extreme Creations

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Billet +4" to +6" Swing arm...

Either 4-6inch or 8-10inch option

I currently run a set of swingarm extensions from EC for my FZ-07 due to the turbo upgrade... 

Might have to grind the OEM brake caliper "tab" to get tire clearance...

Not really... I like my motorcycles, but I got a few hobbies that also fill the same peace of mind I get riding my motorcycles... lately the past few years I have been playing with turbo street cars/trucks after spending a good 10yrs or so playing with nitrous motors... now I got a new toy that I'm itching to play with, a FT-07(turbo version of the FZ-07 🤪) ...I am also lucky my job along with my hobbies mesh well together, I can apply knowledge/skills from my job to my hobbies and vice versa...

Yes the FJ-09 could go quicker than the magazine's times even with a speed limit restrictor... the first 60' will make or break it...

A lot of times I suspect these 1/4mile times are made from 1/8th mile times... I don't recall the magazines showing the time slips- that would be more legitimate proof in my book...

Why lean over??? Power slide/drift/load shift that sucker!!!

It may help to invoke the spirit of the main character "Takumi" from the "Intital D Racer" movie series...😁

Or!! Berm blast like Ronnie Mac 🤣

I also got 2 busted kneecaps from motorcycle crashes... longest recovery was 4wks till I could bend my knee enough to ride... 

Yamaha comfort seat= nice track bike seat type of comfort... it's just firmer foam than oem...

Alright: your bike parked next to a Shelby Cobra for the US side or your bike next to a supermarnie spitfire or hawker hurricane...

I own a FZ-07...same motor in the T7... yes the motor is torquey but once your past 95mph its running outta steam till it taps out at 110mph... I never considered the FZ-07 to be a bike to rack up miles on the highway- its perfectly at home in the city or back roads... the FJ-09 can easily rack up miles in just about everything on road...

The T7 is more off road than on road...hence taller bike for ground clearance( I dunno why ppl assume it's for taller people)...

You really don't wanna fill up too much... if it settles halfway or tad more, your good... now if you overfill it, you may not notice at once but a few miles down the road when your hammering it, extra oil gets blown into the airbox... also as the oil breaks down/gets full of crud it raises the oil lvl... 

When engine is running you shouldn't see any oil, maybe a tiny bit in the sight glass, so don't think its low on oil...

15 hours ago, BBB said:

Just been doing some reading on this: From a thread on Pistonheads;

”Crankcase venting is for the removal of the gases that build up in the crankcase through combustion gases passing the piston rings and vapour created by heat. 

Recirculating crankcase gas into the intake not only removes the very harmful acids that in these gases and burns them safely in the combustion chamber but also assists in creating a vaccum in the cranckcase and hence reducing pumping losses. 

Always plumb your crankcase breather back into the intake system with an adequate seperator system inline to prevent oil carry over, this should also incorporate a relevant pressure control valve as well.”

Anyone got any thoughts on that? If true then I’ll be checking my “kinky hose” is clear.

I agree to some extent but I felt it was more "worded" to keep the EPA happy...

1 hour ago, coachluciano said:

New breather hose showed up today. Original on the left. Glad I ordered a new one. Mine was never fully crimped, but also never fully breathing. This is a focus point when reinstalling the air box. Oddly, the new hose feel sturdier for some reason. Guessing heat takes its toll on rubber. 

I would have capped the engine breather tube hole at the airbox and maybe leave an inch of the hose to attach a small breather filter... no more pinched breather hose...

3 hours ago, trevinator said:

i was looking at these case guards but im not sure they will work on the 2017 fj-09.

Engine Case Cover Protective Left & Right Yamaha MT-09 FZ-09 (14-15) Titanium - MotorGenic

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it says for 2014-15 fz-09. but isnt the engine the exact same between the fz and fj? if im not mistaken, couldnt i simply remove the outer cover and dampener on the clutch side and use this guard?

I don't see why they wouldn't work- just double check the 2014 engine case covers to the 2017 FJ-09 case covers OEM part numbers...

I really don't see the need for uber fancy oil with motorcycles... I change the oil when the "normal shift feeling" to me is gone vs using it till it hits 13424675 miles cuz its uber fancy synthetic oil... I use regular ole Yamalube and usually change oil/filter around 2700-3500 miles... on my turbo FZ-07 the oil changes will be around 1000miles 😅

1 minute ago, coachluciano said:

I must be cursed because my FJ has next to no vibrations. At all. I often ponder at various speeds wondering what everyone else feel who do experience issues.  

Mine didn't either, but the left foot peg was more noticeable than right side, but I knew it was chain related vibrations... 

A chain is ment to ride on its inner rollers not the actual outside chain plates which is producing the odd bass like clunky vibrations due to the "rubber noise damping ring"... and I also found the "rubber damping ring" kinda masked the chain "feeling" I normally feel or sense if it's tight/lose/binding/or the alignment is off...