jthayer09

Your helmet should fit the stock sidecases, I have an XL HJC RPHA 70 ST and it fits. As @OldBikers stated, you have to put the helmet in upside-down to match the shape of the case:

I'll put in my 2 cents for top case choice: I have the Givi v56 that I used on my 2015 FJ-09 and then purchased the Shad 58X expandable case when I bought my '21 Tracer 9 GT. The SHAD 58X is one of the best purchases I've made in any hobby.

Both hold two full-face helmets but when it comes to convenience and quality the Shad has some features the Givi doesn't:

The Shad can be put into what I affectionately call "pancake" mode when its empty; it flattens down to 42L of storage. This is important if you like leaving the case on 24/7 as it is smaller and affects handling less. It has two expansion levels depending on how much you want to carry; fully expanded takes two full face helmets.

The SHAD has a flip-out handle for carrying, I've never owned a Givi case that had that feature, and like all SHAD cases you can leave the case unlocked and take the key out; I have no idea why Givi doesn't let you do this.

The SHAD 58X is also cheaper, not just the case itself, but the entire all-in cost as with SHAD cases each one includes the mounting plate required. With Givi the plate is a separate purchase.

The 58X also comes with drill points marked and molded into the case for the backrest accessory. Givi doesn't, requiring you to print out their guide outline or manually measure the drill points yourself.

Good luck.

19 hours ago, kilo3 said:

Hold onto your pants as soon as AI starts crunching chemical battery composites and membranes.
Prepare for a solar panel boom if they get efficient storage ready to go, but that's a whole different story.

Funny you should mention that.

My portfolio is overwhelmingly boring ETFs, mutual funds, and a few rental properties. The only individual stocks I have are either direct solar panel manufacturers or precious metals companies related to solar panel production. I should've bought nVidia I'm waiting for that solar panel boom any day now 😅.

Is "what battery should I get" going to be the 21st century version of oil threads? 😆

Glad the general consensus for Lithium is positive after reading this thread.

Not sure about NOCO as a company, I don't support any corporation that ignore industry standards in favor of their own proprietary connectors in order to nickel and dime us to death on adapters and dongles. I have a NOCO charger I bought on a big sale and needed to buy an SAE adapter because their chargers terminate in their proprietary X-connect; even more irritating their batteries also have nonstandard/non-square terminals. I will begrudgingly admit the quality of the charger is top-notch, and charges multiple types of batteries (AGM, Gel, Lithium) without issue.

I also find it humorous that just as Lithium Ion was becoming affordable and available to the masses to compete with AGM/Gel; LiFePO hit the market and made Li-ion dead tech at larger form factors. The speed at which new tech comes out these days is insane.

47 minutes ago, motochick said:

I'm curious if the GT9+ is safe to flash yet?

I'm in no rush because my GT9+ is better than other modern FI bike's I've owned, but still..this CP3 engine is so delightful, i want to set it free!  😊

It's the same engine as the 2021 so I don't see why not. The 2014-2020 models are all the same flash.

You could email/call to confirm: Contact me - FLASHED BY VCYCLENUT.

I feel that I owe it to Dave at Vcyclenut to write this review, not just for the excellent product but going above and beyond with service.

In short, Dave's ECU flash is amazing. The bike is smoother everywhere and has noticeable power gains when paired with the Akrapovic racing carbon system. Of course having the throttle restrictions removed (mainly 2nd gear) also opens up more riding options as you have roll-on power in every gear. 

However, I had MPG problems that popped up; alarmingly low MPG after the flash. This led me to believe the flash was bad, or at the very least running rich. I contacted Dave through email and explained the low MPG after the flash. He said I could send the ECU back and he could trim back the fuel where cruising RPMs fell. Before resorting to that, I ran two full tanks through the bike with fuel additive to make sure I didn't have a fueling problem, nope, still bad MPG. Riding buddies also mentioned a strong smell of gasoline when riding behind me.

I reported everything I was experiencing to Dave over email, this is where he went above and beyond. We had an 11 email back-and-forth where Dave offered various options to solve the problem, and many detailed explanations on how tuning works and varying possibilities between swapping exhausts, baffles, trimming the fuel at specific revs, etc.

However, as I mentioned in another thread I cleaned the TPS after the bike stalled on me twice; this also fixed my MPG issue. I apologized to Dave for pointing my finger at the flash potentially being faulty, and thanked him for providing an amazing product and extraordinary service.

You can find praise for Dave's flashes all over the internet, but I'm truly impressed by his service in answering all of my questions; not just with brief responses, but with detailed explanations that often answered why something is the way it is when it comes to the flash and tuning. He's easily reachable by email and phone. Truly reassuring when a service provider actually serves their customers.

100% recommend the flash, without pause.
 

1 hour ago, skipperT said:

@jthayer09 Only a “defect” in your, and other peoples, opinions. 

An updated part number, is simply that - an updated part number. It also doesn’t mean that there’s a “blanket” problem with every MT or MTT 09 that’s been produced from 2021 forward. Yamaha may have simply switched vendors, or maybe they did redesign it, or maybe they made the 2023 GT+ sensors work in place of the sensors for all bikes that used a similar part in 2021 and 2022 models. So it makes sense for them to offer only one part that works for everybody, not 6 different parts for 6 models? 
Only Yamaha knows. The rest is just speculation. 

on that note, I’ve seen plenty of examples that are just fine and have no issues and no DTC’’s.
This doesn’t qualify as a major issue IMHO. More of “something to be aware of…”

-Skip

It is my opinion, but it is also my professional opinion. I work in supply chain ops, specifically in inventory management, planning, and production. An updated part number is not "simply that". I've never worked with or seen an ERP system where a SKU # would change with a vendor switch; vendor/producer is tied to lot code for traceability & compliance. An updated SKU # should only change if a new bill of materials were made to represent materials change to produce a new SKU # with the same previous design, OR - as you pointed out - an actual redesign occurred. SKU # coding would also have some way to represent what change actually occurred.

The part for the 2021 model year (B3L-85885-00-00) only existed for 2 years and was only put on 3 motorcycles: 2020-21 R1, 2021 MT09, and 2021 Tracer 9. That seems odd to put research and development into a critical component only to have it exist in such limited capacity and for such a limited run, no?

This is the same company that has bolts like 90109-08170-00 that has been in use since 2008 and is still used on today's models.

I think I'm missing your point regarding 2023 GT+ sensors working in place of 2021 and 2022 model sensors. The 2022 part is also used on the 2023 and 2024 bikes; across all CP3 models and the R1.

The short operational lifespan of part # B3L-85885-00-00, is sus as hell. Why did they spend money on R&D for a new part for 2022-current year if the 2021 part was perfectly fine? Also, unless something has changed greatly in Yamaha part codes recently this isn't actually speculation at all. The # change from 2021 to 2022-onwards is B3L-85885-00-00 to B3L-85885-01-00. The only #s that changed are the design code, there was a correction or modification to the original part design. Yamaha's engineers are smart, they know they goofed and properly redesigned the part to work as originally intended. Question is: will Yamaha corporate admit and own it?
 

@RaYzerman Did you replace the TPS on your FJR? Is the process complicated? Shop manual for the Tracer 9 mentions "calibration" but is that just position alignment? 

Everything is working as it should now, so I suppose whenever symptoms come back that's when I'll order the 2022 SKU and slap it on; recall not pending of course.

So I've had Vcyclenut's flash for a bit and everything has been good. Until this past week, when my bike stalled twice after startup, and the lurching/hiccup while cruising came back!

This jogged my memory that I had the P2135 code and never actually fixed it myself. So I did some searching but couldn't find anything for the Tracer 9 aside from this thread; however, searching MT09 gets tons of results with other people having throttle position sensor issues where cleaning has done some good, or even replacing and cleaning throttle bodies, but the permanent fix is to replace the TPS (more on that below).

For those looking for a quick way for cleaning the TPS you can do it without having to remove the gas tank and airbox. It's on the right side of the bike, behind the triangle engine mount plate. I used two flat head screw drivers, one to push the locking tab in and another to lift the female end off. Then I just sprayed contact cleaner on the connectors inside both ends and let it dry, stalling gone, hesitation gone:

What's frustrating about this is that every poster that says they took their CP3 bike into a dealership for this issue has been told by the dealer that Yamaha is aware of this issue. And clearly they are because for model year 2022 and onward the TPS is a different part # than the 2021 models: 2021 is B3L-85885-00-00, 2022-onwards is B3L-85885-01-00. The 2021 version is probably missing a gasket, hood, or cover that protects it from moisture or debris, the same part is used on the 2020 R1 but the fairings probably keep the TPS shielded. 

So clearly they know it's an issue but there's no recall yet? Apparently you can just plug the 2022+ TPS sensor into a 2021 model and it's fine, but why should I have to drop $75-$100 for a manufacturer defect? I'm hoping a recall comes this season or y'know... the thread title is very applicable.

What I call my "40/40 rule" for me: above 40F, less than 40% chance of rain.

Then I got heated gloves, mid 30's and sunny is a joy after being stuck inside for a few weeks. I have a heated jacket liner too, but honestly my 60g Primaloft gold insulated jacket is just as effective as a mid-layer and significantly more comfortable to wear. 

Exceptions to the rule are snow and slush, that'll put me back in the cage. Winds above 20mph can be exhausting too if I know I'm going to be riding a route without windbreaks.

2 hours ago, RaYzerman said:

Don't overthink it.  Leave the axle torqued up, that is a sandwich holding the wheel perfectly aligned with the lower fork tubes.  The upper tubes are held firmly in the lower triple clamp, leave that alone too.  What is twisted is the upper triple clamp to the lower..... the upper and lower fork tubes can move rotationally to each other, but that's what allows you to realign things.

As stated elsewhere in the thread: the axle keeps the wheel aligned to the axle, that's it. It doesn't guarantee true alignment of the forks to the wheel, or the handlebars to the wheel

As you have stated: the forks can still move rotationally as there is enough slop to do so. Issue is that if everything's torqued down it is one body that moves together (you turn your handle bars, which turns your forks, which turns your wheel) that makes up the front-end. Unless you loosen things to move independently of each other they will continue to move as one system.

If @Yamajank's handlebars are not aligned with the wheel then either the steering head nut needs to be loosened or the front axle needs to be loosened so the wheel and handlebars can move independently of each other so they can dial them back in. Just loosening pinch bolts for the forks isn't going to let him move his handlebars or wheel independently from the rest of the front end. If you are correct and the triple trees are twisted, the only way they're gonna move back into alignment is if that 110Nm nut pressing them together is loosened.

It's highly unlikely the triple tree clamps got twisted when they're held together with the steering neck stem through the frame of the bike and torqued together with the steering head nut (110Nm) on top of 2 steering bearing rings (52Nm and 18Nm). I don't think a tip over has enough force to twist the triple trees, and he'd be seeing other issues first like notchy steering from shot bearings, jittery ride from uneven suspension due to the twist, or at minimum shaking handlebars; but apparently the bike rides fine.

@Yamajank are you sure you don't have a bent fork? Or... this may sound dumb, but are you sure the handlebar holders didn't get rotated a bit separate from the rest of the front-end?



If the handlebar holders got rotated together to throw off your handlebars there are just nuts on the bottom of the triple tree you can loosen up and move them back in alignment.

48 minutes ago, Hamilton Tracer said:

Sorry, I should research first.  I see it comes in a spray.

The set I bought came with a bottle of the liquid and a spray bottle you can use. 

When I'm putting a coat on for the winter I cover the tires and brakes with garbage bags and spray big sections. Then I spray some onto a rag to apply in smaller areas or get up and under specific metal bits that the spray didn't hit like back side of foot pegs & subframe.

DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR TIRES OR BRAKES. Stuff is super slick even in small residue amounts.

On 2/22/2024 at 3:59 PM, kilo3 said:

People own their bikes long enough to get corrosion issues?

Fluid film is kinda the gold standard in the great white north, that's what I use on our cars/trucks, I'd be hesitant on a motorcycle, shits slimy.  Probably be better off with diligent wash downs instead.

Fluid film is what people put on their plows around here but like you said: thick and sticky, it picks up tons of crud.

ACF-50 was formulated for the aviation industry and I find that it's the superior product for bikes too. Easy to apply in various ways, thin so it gets into crevices, not too sticky so it doesn't pick up crud as you ride, and fairly easy to wash off in the summer if that's your thing.

3 hours ago, GTO MIKE said:

Yep would be nice  but too much salt brine on roads here in Ohio.    Mike

Slap some ACF-50 on the bike and get out there!

You're right though, I can't believe how much salt brine is still left in some of the counties I've ridden through these past few weeks.

On 2/16/2024 at 6:32 AM, Ride365 said:

Helmet price isn't really about safety, it's mostly about fit/finish/comfort/weight and optical clarity of the visor. That is why I like the HJC RPHA series so much, you get a high-end helmet without quite the Shoei and Arai price tag. 

+1 for the HJC RPHA 70 ST here too, 4-years with it this coming April. I also agree (in my experience) that after a certain price point you're paying for luxury, comfort, and optical technology; rather than a more safe helmet. You either meet SNELL/ECE for the track, or you don't.

Apparently the successor is the RPHA 71, and it seems like a downgrade by many reviews? I hate the proprietary comms cutout many vendors are doing now, and in the case of the RPHA 71 the extra cutout is another hole that lets in wind noise through, on top of being less friendly to 3rd party communication sets.

LS2's new line of helmets look fantastic and the prices are right. Challenger GT looks competitive to the RPHA ST line. The Citation II is super light and under $300; pinlock insert included.

Also, for those of you in the USA: like most motorcycle accessories I've found it's much cheaper to by from an EU vendor and just wait the week for it to ship to the USA. Just a quick search shows USA vendor TheVisorshop.com has it priced at $821.80 which matches @dazzler24's conversion from AUD in his picture above.

Motostorm.it saves almost $200 if you don't mind waiting on the shipping:

 

1 hour ago, Yamajank said:

I still don’t understand what loosening the axle has to do with the alignment.  Can anyone explain?  It’s getting warm enough to throw a space heater in the garage and give this a try.  Also some are suggesting that’s it’s only going to work if you loosen the top stem nut. Thanks

This is basic physics: you applied a force greater than the tension of the system holding your front end in alignment, so it became unaligned. Now, unless you can somehow recreate that force in direct opposition we are suggesting you to relieve the tension by loosening the parts holding your front end in alignment so that you can use a smaller force (less effort) to correct the issue.

Your axle holds the forks to the wheel, you need to loosen it so you can realign everything, then tighten it back up.

Honestly you should loosen everything down there that connects the forks to the wheels like fender and caliper bolts. 

1 hour ago, betoney said:

I would highly recommend test riding a DCT just to see what it’s like, a lot of riders love it while others say it’s not “real motorcycling” if you don’t shift yourself  🤷🏻‍♂️  when I first bought the bike I went on a week long trip to bond with the bike and discover it’s pros and cons and really like what the DCT has to offer and am glad that I have both parked in the garage.

I am very grateful for the riding I have been able to do over the years, if it all ended tomorrow I have nothing but amazing memories and photographs of my adventures. I encourage anyone to get out and enjoy your bike as much as possible while you are still able. 
 

Just growing pains within the fan-base. It took years of cars putting up faster lap and strip times for people to finally accept DCTs. The computer is always going to shift perfectly; and if you want or need to manage the RPMs there's nothing wrong with paddle shifters (or buttons/triggers on a motorcycle).

If someone entered a partnership and put VW DCTs in a motorcycle I'd put a deposit down immediately; I'm actually a bit surprised Harley Davidson hasn't tried to rekindle their relationship with Porsche and make a DCT for their bikes. Anecdotally, my step-father is finding it harder to operate the heavy clutch on his 1998 Heritage Softail Classic as he gets older, and that is another drop in the bucket in considering giving up riding.

You replaced the fuel pump and injectors rather than just reinstall the OEM gas cap designed for the bike? I bet your keyless fuel cap is messing with the tank pressure, since the problem started the day you installed it:

6 hours ago, Kenney said:

this started the very day I installed a keyless fuel tank cover.

6 hours ago, Kenney said:

I didnt experience this with the stock fuel tank cover.

Come on now 🙄

6 hours ago, Kenney said:

please do you’ve a solution? 

Put the OEM cap back on. If the problem still persists you have blockage in the vent lines or the fuel lines.

I disagree that it would improve visibility. I'd argue the opposite in fact: they're high-up vertically and are designed to illuminate outwards on both sides of the bike; they don't illuminate the road in front of you and you'd just blind oncoming drivers if they were always on.

For reference, in the service manual the cornering light is the beam circled here:

Point f is your center reference point/line. Line e is your low beam, line g  is the inner line you line up your cornering beam to according to the manual. Hopefully you see how having your cornering lights on all the time would be a serious problem. However, adjustment is vertical; maybe you could bring the cornering light down closer to line f and possibly not blind everyone, but I haven't actually tried myself to find the maximum adjustment on the cornering lights.

If you find the factory single bulb lacking (which I did) adjust the beam upwards using the adjuster. I believe I have mine up 4-turns from how it came from the dealer and it's a significant improvement without blinding oncoming traffic.

If you're absolutely dead set on trying to always have your cornering lights on. It looks like you could just disconnect Cornering Light Control Unit (CLCU) coupler, find the power/main line and splice that into the Headlight Assembly Coupler's main line.

On 1/9/2024 at 8:39 PM, T9 Jeffrey said:

Just did the 600 mile break in oil change. 
Thought the drain plug would be metric, 17mm. But it’s US 11/16. 😏  Nearly stripped the head assuming. 

Main reason for post:

The manual says 3.4 quarts oil capacity. I drained hot oil on level ground on center stand 20 min after ride. Also removed filter. 
Replenished with 3 quarts after installing new filter, started motor. Then let sit.
Viewed sight glass on level ground (confirmed by iPhone level) and it was right at the top of the circle, above top line. 
Rode the bike a few miles, rechecked. Still over filled. Had to then pump about a half pint out of the fill hole. Now at top line. 
So, if the capacity is 3.4qt, and I put in 3 and then removed .25, then where did the remaining .65 quarts go?

Let's assume your bike started with 3.4 quarts; if you drained all of it and replace the filter you are at zero.

You replenished with 3 quarts, then removed .25qt. You're not "missing" .65qt; quarts because you never put in that much. You only put in 3 quarts out of 3.4qt total capacity, then drained it to 2.75 out of 3.40qts

BUT! You say that your sight glass was overfilled with the 3qts you put in. That would indicate you never went down to zero from the first drain: there was still oil left in your oil pan, engine internals, crevices, etc. There's lot of places for oil to stick and hide; all of that settles back down over time.

If you're not going to let it drain overnight, and tip the bike every-which-way to get every last drop out don't assume you're back down to zero, that's where your .65qts went. Going by the sight glass is the right thing to do, otherwise you're just overthinking it 😎





 

2 minutes ago, Warchild said:

I am sure most will not like my reply. That's fine, if you think differently, no problem.

I am not so sure our cross-plane triple motors like synthetic oil all that much. On the surface, that statement seems ridiculous. However, I can only report my experiences from direct observation and use.

I think it was the 2nd oil change (after 600-mile change) that I swapped from full petroleum YamaLube to full synthetic 15w-50 YamaLube. I could immediately  tell the engine had new noises that it just did not have before. We all know our clutch baskets are noisy, our valve train can tick, etc. But these noises were different. They seem most pronounce at idle, or just off-idle. Still, the bike ran just as perfect as before.

Ran that oil for it's normal 4K interval, then the next change, back to YamaLube AT 10w-40. Started the bike, and I was amazed that those noises were gone altogether. I can't explain this.

Late summer 2022, with 16,000 miles on the odo, on a lark I tried YamaLube full synthetic again. Same identical results... a much nosier engine. Again, can't explain it, can't think of any explanation for it. The bike runs just fine - it's just nosier.

I am at 22,500 miles now, back to AT 10w-40, the bike is not that noisy, other than normal clutch basket noises. 

The bike has always ran perfectly regardless of the oil.

You're not crazy, I've posted on here before the CP3 engine seems to shift better and runs smoother on semi-synthetic oil according to my hands and butt.

My dealership mechanic also swears by it; when the dealership employee is telling you to buy cheaper semi-synthetic oil from Amazon rather than the full synthetic marked up on their shelf it's something to consider.

4 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

It's a shame that OEM's have to dull power delivery somewhere in the fueling map because of emission regulations.  Hopefully someone will have a good reflash for the latest generation Yamaha Tracer which will eliminate the flat spot.

 

Fairly certain any reputable tuner is going to remove all throttle restrictions.

Vcyclenut mentions specifically removing the restrictions on gears 1-3 and leaving gear 4 stock:

There are also images of the throttle tables if you're interested in looking at those.

"Display name" login broke at some point; use your email address instead and it should work as expected.

On 12/17/2023 at 7:14 PM, Heli ATP said:

I just read that waterproof gloves will no longer be waterproof, if used with heated grips in the rain. Anyone experience this?

It seems this is not an issue for heated gloves as the heat is inside, whereas heated grips provide heat from the outside.

Who has  the scientific explanation for this?

The only explanation for this that I could possibly think of: back when Gore-Tex's original patent for ePTFE was still active, that patent prevented other manufacturers from creating their own waterproof ePTFE membrane unless they bought Gore-Tex equipment & materials, paid for the license, and put a Gore-Tex label on the final product. Waterproof gear at the time that wasn't made from ePTFE would have relied on DWR (Durable Water Repellent, like Nikwax) coating that wears off over time. It's possible the heat from motorcycle grips accelerated this wear, that's really the only feasible way you'd lose waterproofing due to heat.

Gore-Tex's patent expired in 1998, and today all waterproof motorcycle gear is waterproofed with an ePTFE membrane manufactured in-house or by a third party, there will be no issues with heated grips.

On 12/18/2023 at 6:12 AM, Ride365 said:

I personally have yet to find a waterproof glove, although what I do have is quite good and am bummed no longer made "imagine that". Heated gloves are too bulky for me, I like as much dexterity as possible when I ride.

Not sure what brands you're buying but any of the big 3 EU brands have solid in-house membranes that haven't failed on me yet over 5+ years since owning: Rev'it, Dainese, and Alpinestars. I also have some gear in other brands that use Hipora as the membrane and that has held up.

For bulky heated gloves/winter gloves there are pairs that don't have insulation in the palm and underside of the fingers so the dexterity is still there and you actually feel your heated grips better; maybe that is worth looking into?

31 minutes ago, knyte said:

I saw something recently (might have been Fortnine / F9?) that reasoned this is intentional because your left will need more heat because it'll be on the grip 100% of the time, and therefore exposed to more cold air.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you wrote, but the issue is that the left-hand side of the handlebar has less heat because the heat from the grip gets absorbed by the cold metal of the handlebar; which is why we're recommending users insulate the handlebar with tape before installing a heated grip.

You're saying this is intentional because the left needs more heat?

4 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

No one else mentioned that the higher price oem kit includes a whole new throttle tube / grip and throttle shell top half that makes for a LOT cleaner wire clutter free install.

I just wish the oem, like Oxford and other AM kits had a slightly larger ID in the left grip to permit adding tape or shrink tubing over the bar to insulate it so heat didn't conduct back into it making the grip that much hotter.

The throttle tube does that on the right.

I don't know about the '18-20 model year Tracers, but on my '21GT Yamaha definitely fixed the heating issue of the left grip from factory.

I do remember it being horrible on the '15 in that the handlebar was just a giant heatsink, barely any warmth to my hand. I was quite upset with myself for letting the dealer do that installation rather than just taking a Saturday and knocking it out on my own and insulating that left side properly.